Pengaruh Penambahan Ekstrak Kulit Manggis (Garcinia X Mangostana L.) Terhadap Nilai Spf Krim Tabir Surya Kombinasi Avobenson Dan Oktil Metoksisinamat

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PENGARUH PENAMBAHAN EKSTRAK KULIT MANGGIS

(Garcinia x mangostana

KRIM TABIR SURYA KOMBINASI

AVOBENSON DAN OKTIL METOKSISINAMAT

Abstrak

Paparan berlebihan radiasi UV dapat menyebabkan efek akut dan kronis pada kulit. Radiasi UV dapat menyebabkan efek akut kulit seperti radang, eritema, pigmentasi, dan efek kronis seperti kanker dan penuaan dini. Penggunaan tabir surya topikal adalah cara untuk melindungi efek merugikan radiasi UV pada kulit. Ekstrak kulit manggis (Garcinia x mangostana merupakan sumber alami flavonoid yang memiliki potensi fotoproteksi karena dapat menyerap sinar UV dan befungsi sebagai antioksidan secara langsung dan tidak langsung. Tujuan penelitian ini adalah untuk mengetahui pengaruh ekstrak kulit manggis terhadap nilai SPF dan stabilitas fisik krim tabir surya yang mengandung kombinasi avobenson dan oktil metoksisinamat.

Pada penelitian ini, kulit manggis diekstraksi dengan metode perkolasi menggunakan etanol 70% kemudian ekstrak dikeringkan menggunakan penangas air pada suhu 80-90ºC. Krim tabir surya mengandung asam stearat dan trietanolamin sebagai basis krim. Krim tabir surya kombinasi avobenson dan oktil metoksisinamat diformulasikan dengan penambahan ekstrak kulit manggis dengan konsentrasi 4% (FI), 6% (FII), 8% (FIII), dan 10% (FIV). Evaluasi krim meliputi homogenitas krim, tipe emulsi, pH, stabilitas (pemisahan fase, warna dan bau), iritasi kulit, dan nilai SPF. Nilai SPF krim tabir surya ditentukan dengan metode spektrofotometri UV-Visible menggunakan persamaan Mansur.

Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa semua sediaan homogen, tipe emulsi m/a, pH 5,1 - 6,4, tidak mengiritasi, dan stabil selama 12 minggu penyimpanan pada suhu kamar. Nilai SPF meningkat dengan meningkatnya konsentrasi ekstrak kulit manggis. Nilai SPF krim tabir surya yang mengandung ekstrak 4% (FI), 6% (FII), 8% (FIII), dan 10% (FIV) masing-masing adalah 14,0176, 16,5981, 18,5802, 24,6947. Dapat disimpulkan bahwa ekstrak kulit manggis dapat meningkatkan nilai SPF krim tabir surya kombinasi avobenson dan oktil metoksisinamat.

Kata kunci : ekstrak kulit manggis, avobenson, oktil metoksisinamat, nilai SPF,

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THE EFFECT OF MANGOSTEEN PERICARP EXTRACT

(Garcinia x mangostana

CREAM’S SPF VALUE OF AVOBENZONE AND OCTYL

METHOXYCINNAMATE COMBINATION

Abstract

Overexposure to UV radiation can cause acute and chronic effects on the skin. The UV radiation induces responses on acute skin effects such as

inflammation, erythema, pigmentation, and chronic effects such as

photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Topical application of sunscreen is a strategy to protect the deleterious effect of UV radiation on the skin. The

mangosteen pericarp extract (Garcinia x mangostana

flavonoids that have the potential photoprotection because of their UV absorbing and their ability to act as direct and indirect antioxidants. The purpose of this study was to understand the effect of mangosteen pericarp extract on SPF value and physical stability of sunscreen cream containing a combination of avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate.

In this study, mangosteen pericarp was extracted by percolation method using 70% ethanol. Then extract was dried using a waterbath at 80-90ºC. Sunscreen cream containing stearic acid and triethanolamine as cream bases. Sunscreen creams of avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate combination were formulated with addition of mangosteen pericarp extract at a concentration of 4% (FI), 6% (FII), 8% (FIII), and 10% (FIV). Evaluations conducted on cream such as homogenity, emulsion type, pH, stability (phase separation, color, and odor), skin irritation, and SPF value. SPF value of sunscreens were determined by UV-Visible spectrophotometry method using Mansur equation.

The study results showed that all the samples were homogeneous, emulsion type m/a, pH was 5.1 – 6.4, non-irritating, and were stable during 12 weeks of storage at room temperature. SPF value increased by increasing the mangosteen pericarp extract concentration. Sunscreen cream’s SPF value that contained of 4% (FI), 6% (FII), 8% (FIII), and 10% (FIV) extract were 14.0176, 16.5981, 18.5802, 24.6947 respectively. It can be concluded that mangosteen pericarp extract can increases the sunscreen cream’s SPF value of combination avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate.

Key words: mangosteen pericarp extract, avobenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, SPF

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