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Table 4.16 Inorganic whites.
Color type Color shade Major uses Positive Negative
Titanium dioxide – anatase
Blue white Lipstick Eye makeup Nail lacquer Foundation
Low cost Lower chemical stability than rutile Titanium dioxide –
rutile
Yellow white Lipstick Eye makeup Nail lacquer Foundation
Low cost More difficult to suspend and disperse than anatase
In addition, titanium dioxide can have three different dispersion characteristics, based on the permitted<1% trace constituents present. The first is a pure material that is oil- and water-dispersible. The second is an oil-dispersible product that contains a small amount of aluminum oxide, which retards “floating” in lipsticks. The third grade disperses easily in water due to a high residual salt content, but has the disadvantage that floatation is sometimes observed in water-based foundation formulations.
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are the main colorants because they are bright and exhibit very good color intensity, making them good value for money. The colors in this category are:
D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake D&C Red No. 6
D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake is used as the main colorant in yellow red for- mulations, while D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake is used in blue shade reds. D&C Red No. 6 is used as the main color in yellow shade reds for the Japanese and worldwide markets, as the barium lake is not permitted in Japan.
Shading Colors – Yellow:These colorants are used in conjunction with the main colors to create various shades in the yellow color space:
FD&C Yellow No. 5 Al Lake FD&C Yellow No. 6 Al Lake D&C Red No. 36
Either FD&C Yellow No. 6 Al Lake or D&C Red No. 36 can also be used as the main colorant in orange lipsticks.
Shading Colors – Blue:These colorants are used in conjunction with the main colors to create various shades in the blue color space:
D&C Red No. 33 Al Lake D&C Red No. 27 Al Lake D&C Red No. 28 Al Lake
D&C Red No. 33 Al Lake can also be used as the main color in violet lipsticks, while D&C Red No. 27 Al Lake (or D&C Red No. 28 Lake for Japan) is the color of choice for fuchsia shades.
Specialty Colors – Yellow: These color additives are used with the main and yellow-shading colors to create a wide range of shades in a given product line. They are weaker, and in some cases more expensive than the former two categories:
D&C Red No. 21 Al Lake D&C Red No. 22 Al Lake D&C Yellow No. 10 Al Lake D&C Orange No. 5 Al Lake
Specialty Colors – Blue:These color additives are used with the main colors and blue-shading colors to create a wide range of shades within a given product line. Like their yellow counterparts, they tend to be weak and expensive:
FD&C Blue No. 1 Al Lake D&C Red No. 30 Lake
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Staining Colors:This is one of the few examples were dyes are used in decorative cosmetic products. They are used in conjunction with pigments to produce long-wearing lipsticks. Being alkali-soluble, they will stain the lips, giving the impression that the lipstick itself is longer-wearing:
D&C Orange No. 5 D&C Red No. 21 D&C Red No. 27
D&C Orange No. 5 is the yellow shade of the three colorants, D&C Red No. 27 is the blue shade, and D&C Red No. 21 sits right in the middle.
Inorganic Colors:Though used in smaller percentages than the organ- ics, inorganic colors are quite useful in lipsticks. The common ones are:
Titanium dioxide Iron oxides Manganese violet
Mascara/Eyeliner
Inorganic colors find the most common usage in this area, simply because the vast majority of mascaras and eyeliners produced are black. Another reason is the very limited number of synthetic organic colors that the FDA permits in any eye makeup.
Inorganic Colors:
Black iron oxide (jet black) Brown iron oxide
Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide Ultramarine blue
Chromium hydroxide green Manganese violet
Organic Colors:
D&C Black No. 2
FD&C Yellow No. 5 Al Lake FD&C Blue No. 1 Al Lake
Due to its extreme jetness, D&C Black No. 2 provides the opportunity for the formulator to grab the holy grail of mascara: a very black shade. Often, to keep costs down, black iron oxide and D&C Black No. 2 are used together.
The combination of FD&C Yellow No. 5 Al Lake and FD&C Blue No. 1 Al Lake makes a very bright, clean green but will tend to bleed in water-based formulations.
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Eye Shadow
For the same reasons as with mascara, most of the colorants used in eye shadows are inorganic, keeping in mind any stability restrictions in formu- lations containing water.
Inorganic Colors:
Ultramarine blue Manganese violet Yellow iron oxide Red iron oxide Black iron oxide Brown iron oxide Chromium oxide greens Chromium hydroxide greens Titanium dioxide
Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide Organic Colors:
D&C Black No. 2
FD&C Yellow No. 5 Al Lake FD&C Blue No. 1 Al Lake FD&C Red No. 40 Al Lake Carmine
Further, and again as with mascaras, organic colors produce much brighter, cleaner eye shadow shades than do inorganic ones. FD&C Red No.
40 Al Lake is not only brighter than Carmine, but also much less expensive.
D&C Black No. 2 can be used in place of black iron oxide to produce dark shades of brown.
Blush Products
Based on the color nature and intended application of these types of prod- ucts, the organic colors are the predominant ones in powder and anhydrous products. The inorganic colorants are used to “tone down” the brightness of the organic colors and to produce earth tone shades. .
Organic Colors:
D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake D&C Red No. 6
D&C Red No. 34 Ca Lake D&C Red No. 30 Lake D&C Red No. 36
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As with lipsticks, D&C Red No. 6 is used as a replacement for Red 6 Lake in products formulated for the Japanese market, where the latter is prohib- ited. D&C Red No. 30 Al Lake is commonly used in blush due to its very high resistance to color change caused by perspiration or processing con- ditions, making the cosmetic product longer wearing and the shade more reproducible.
Inorganic Colors:
Iron oxides Manganese violet Ultramarine blue Titanium dioxide
Liquid Makeup
Since the shades of these products are basically skin tones, the color addi- tives used are essentially all inorganic. The iron oxides produce the various shades, while titanium dioxide adjusts the coverage and shade darkness.
Inorganic Colors:
Red iron oxide Yellow iron oxide Black iron oxide Titanium dioxide
Nail Lacquer
Organic and inorganic colors are used in nail lacquer, but the organics pre- dominate because nail lacquer shades tend to be bright colors, necessitating the use of the bright organic pigments. The overall palette of organic colors is limited due to stability problems with the harsh aromatic solvents used in most nail polish systems.
Organic Colors:
D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake D&C Red No. 6
D&C Red No. 34 Ca Lake D&C Red No. 30 Lake FD&C Yellow No. 5 Al Lake FD&C Yellow No. 6 Al Lake
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D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake and D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake are the main col- ors used, for the same reasons they are commonly used in lipsticks: bright shades and good money value D&C Red No. 6 is used for Japanese formula- tions.
Inorganic Colors:
Red iron oxide Black iron oxide
Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide Titanium dioxide
Soap
Both organic and inorganic colors are used in cosmetic soaps. Generally, the decorative soaps use the organics, while the common bath and deodorant soaps use the inorganics. This is because the decorative soaps tend to be bright colors, requiring the use of the organics, while many of the deodorant products have more subdued shades, which are better suited to the inorganic pigments.
Organic Colors:
D&C Red No. 30 Lake D&C Red No. 36
FD&C Red No. 40 Al Lake FD&C Yellow No. 6 Al Lake FD&C Blue No. 1 Al Lake Inorganic Colors:
Iron oxides Chrome greens Ultramarines Titanium dioxide
The next chapter will address the economic issues facing color chemists, in terms of both the practical hands-on nature of their work and the larger issue of how markets and availability affect the degree to which specific col- ors can be and are used.
References
FDA. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21 Part 74.2052.www.accessdata.fda .gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=74.2052 (accessed September 28, 2020).
Federal Register. (1994). V59 N32 (Feb 16, 1994) pp. 7635.
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