Price And Quality Differences
For Imported And Domestic Men’s Dress Shirts
Rachel Dardis, Steven M. Spivak, Chi-Mei Shih
Authors’ Address: All at
Department
of Textilesand Consumer Economics,
University
ofMaryland, College
Park, MD 20742.Price and
quality
differences foreight
brands of men’s dress shirts were investi-gated during
a four-monthperiod. Three-way analysis
of variance was used to determine thesignificance
of brand and storetype, origin,
and time ofpurchase
or number
of launderings.
Theresults
indicated thatimported
shirts were of thesame, if not
higher, quality
than domestic shirts but were lower inprice.
Thesefindings support
the results of an earlierstudy
conducted in 1978.INTRODUCTION
Imported apparel
has increased its share of U.S.apparel
sales in recent years. In someinstances,
the number ofimported apparel
items has exceeded the number of
apparel
items
produced
in the United States. How- ever, consumergains
fromapparel imports
have been
challenged by
the domestic ap-parel industry.
Twomajor questions
havebeen raised with
respect
toapparel imports.
The first
question regards
thedegree
to whichlower costs for
imported apparel
arepassed
on to consumers in the form of lower
prices.
The second
question
concerns the existenceof
quality
differences between domestic andimported apparel,
i.e. lowerpriced imports
may reflect lower
quality.
The purpose of this
study
was toinvestigate price
andquality
differences for domestic andimported apparei.
Men’s dress shirts were se-lected for this
analysis
for several reasons.First,
thisapparel category
has exhibited con-siderable
import penetration,
withimports accounting
for 50percent
of total U.S. con-sumption
(U.S.Department
ofCommerce,
1980).Second, products
in thiscategory
arefairly
similar instyle
and appearance, in con- trast to women’sapparel
where fashionplays
a more dominant role.
Finally, durability
andappearance over the
product
lifecycle
aremajor quality
attributes which can be mea-sured
objectively using laboratory analysis.
The results of such a
study
should indicate whether cost differences arepassed
on toconsumers in the form of lower
prices
andwhether
quality
differences exist between do- mestic andimported apparel.
The results of suchanalyses
should be useful to consumereducators in the field of textiles and
clothing.
In
addition,
informationconcerning
thegains
from trade is
important
in view of thegrowth
of trade
protectionism
for many consumergoods, including apparel,
in recent years (GeneralAgreement
on Tariffs andTrade, 1981;
Morkre andTarr,
1980).Background
Production cost differences between do- mestic and
imported apparel
are due to theResearch
supported by University
ofMaryland
Agricultural
Experiment Station, Article Number A-3696.labor-intensive nature of
apparel production
and lower wages in the
developing
countrieswhich are
major exporters
ofapparel
to theUnited States (American
Apparel
Manufac-turers
Association, 1980; Georgia
World Con-gress
Institute, 1979;
Kurt SalmonAssociates,
1981). As a result of suchproduction
cost dif-ferences, imported apparel
may sell for ap-proximately
20percent
less than domestic ap-parel
at the wholesale level(Apparel’s
LastStand,
1979).According
to areport by
KurtSalmon Associates
(1981),
suchproduction
cost differences could be narrowed to 10 per- cent if domestic
apparel
firms used the best availabletechnology.
Thisreport
was pre- sented at the 1980 Outlook Seminar of the AmericanApparel
Manufacturers Association and was notdisputed.
The fact thatimports
are available at lower
prices
than domestic ap-parel
was also citedby
retailers as themajor
reason for
purchasing imports (Import Survey:
The Greener Side of theStreet, 1974).
The existence of
price
differences between domestic andimported apparel
at the whole-sale level does not
necessarily
mean that suchprice
differences will continue at the retail level. This is due to the fact that the domesticapparel industry
isprotected by
asystem
ofquotas
which limits thequantity
ofapparel
that may be
exported
to the United States.Retailers may take
advantage
of thisimposed scarcity
andcapture
thescarcity
rent fromquotas by charging
the sameprice
for do-mestic and
imported apparel.
Thispractice
would mean
higher profits
for retailers who sellimported
merchandise athigher
mark-ups.
According
toapparel
manufacturers and labor unionrepresentatives,
thispractice by
retailers means that cost differences at whole- sale are not
passed
on to consumers in theform of lower
prices (U.S.
House ofRepre- sentatives,
1977).White the above situation may exist in the short run, it has been
pointed
out that com-petitive
conditions inretailing
in the UnitedStates are
unlikely
topermit
the retention of windfallprofits
for retailers in thelong
run.In
particular,
retailers willcompete
with re-spect
toprices
ofimported apparel,
and suchcompetition
islikely
to increase as access toforeign
markets increases. Thusprices
of im-ports
willeventually
fall belowprices
of do-mestic
apparel. According
to Cline (1978) thistype
of situation is characterizedby nonprice rationing
sincepotential
consumers cannotreceive &dquo;alf the low
priced imports they want&dquo;
due to
quotas (Cline, 1978,
p. 11). Cline in-vestigated price
differences for manytypes
ofconsumer
goods, including apparel.
Hefound that
imported apparel
was 8.7percent
cheaper
than domesticapparel,
whileapparel
from Asia and Latin America was 11.6
percent
cheaper.1
Cline’sprice comparisons
werebased on
products
ofcomparable quality,
with
quality
establishedby
detailedproduct specifications. However,
noattempt
was made to evaluate thequality
of theproducts
over the
product
lifecycle.
It has also been claimed
by
retailers thathigher mark-ups
onimported goods
areneeded to cover
operating
costs, and thathigher mark-ups
on domesticgoods
would berequired
if low costimports
were unavailable(&dquo;Trade
Restrictions: The Hidden SalesTax,&dquo;
1978). Consumer
gains
from trade in this in- stance areprovided
in the form of lowerprices
for domesticgoods
rather than lowerprices
fromimports
and areagain dependent
on
competitive
conditions inretailing
and theinability
of retailers to maintain excessprofits
in the
long
run.The debate
concerning quality
is based ondifferences in
production
processes andquality
controlprocedures
in the United States andforeign
countries. Rothbaum claims that &dquo;standards ofefficiency
(in theUnited States) are the
highest
in the world&dquo;and that
&dquo;product quality
is a result of these standards&dquo;(Bader, 1982,
p. 17). The belief inhigher quality
Americanapparel
was also ex-pressed by
consumers(Dickerson,
1982).Ap- proximately
47percent
of consumers sur-veyed
said thatapparel imports
were not asgood
asapparel produced
in the UnitedStates,
whileonly
24percent
believed thatthey
were ofcomparable quality.
In contrast, retailers claim thatapparel imports provide
1The Far East is the dominant supplier of woven shirts
to the U.S., accounting for approximately 83 percent of all U.S. imports in 1980 (U.S. Department of Commerce, 1980).
them with the same
quality product
at a lowerprice
or with a betterquality product
for thesame
price (import Survey:
Greener Side ofthe
Street, 1974; Imports:
An Antidote toSameness,
1976).METHODOLOGY
Major
retail outlets in themetropolitan Washington,
D.C. area wereshopped
to de-termine the
style, brand, construction,
and fiber content of domestic andimported
shirts.
Only
items which were similar in ap- pearance and had the same fiber contentwere considered. In this manner, factors such
as appearance or
style,
whichmight
influencepurchase price,
were held constant. The itemfinally
chosen foranalysis
was awhite,
du-rable press, short-sleeved dress shirt with a 65/35
polyester/cotton
fiber content.Four retail outlets were identified as car-
rying
the selection of merchandise needed for theanalysis.
The first outlet was a tradi- tionaldepartment
store with one of thelargest
men’sfurnishings departments
in theregion.
This outlet carried alarge
selection of domestic andimported
national brands. The other three retail outlets were national chaindepartment
stores which carried domestic andimported private
brands. A total ofeight
brands was selected and their distribution
by
retail outlet is
given
below:Store A Stores B, C, and D
2 national domestic 2
private
domestic2 national
imported
2private imported
This selectionprocedure permitted
an ex-amination of
price
variations between do- mestic andimported
brandsholding
brandtype
and storetype
constant.However, price comparisons
of national andprivate
brandswill reflect the
joint
influence of brand and storetype.
All
imported
shirts were labeled with re-spect
tocountry
oforigin
asrequired by
law.2 2These
imports
included shirtsshipped
underTariff Item 807 where fabric is cut in the United States and the
garment pieces
are as-sembled abroad. In this case the last
port
of substantialtransformation,
i.e.garment
as-sembly,
is thecountry
oforigin.
No distinc-tion was made in this
study
between shirts manufacturedentirely
abroad and those as-sembled abroad from U.S. fabric. This was
due to the fact that
price
andquality
differ-ences
will,
ingeneral,
reflect differences inforeign
and U.S. labor costs since all manu-facturers have access to similar fabric and
equipment
andgarment assembly
ishighly
labor-intensive in nature. The use of Tariff Item 807
by
U.S. manufacturers isdesigned
to make them as cost
competitive
asforeign
manufacturers. (American
Apparel
Manufac-turers
Association, 1980; Georgia
World Con-gress
Institute, 1979;
Kurt SalmonAssociates,
1981).Pricing Study
The
pricing study
wasdesigned
to last ap-proximately
four months in order to investi-gate price
variations over time and theimpact
of sales on
price
variations. Thepricing study
started the last week of
April
and continuedthrough August.
Prices were obtained on thesame
day
each week. Inaddition, prices
indifferent branch stores of the various retail outlets were checked to determine that the
same
price
wascharged
in each branch store.Prices,
with oneexception,
were stable forthe first 10 weeks of the survey. The
exception
was a national
imported
brand which had aprice
decline the second week of the survey and no furtherprice change
thereafter. AfterJuly4th, however, price
declines occurred for three of the four national brands. Inaddition,
some brands were discontinued as stores re-
placed
their summer stock with fall merchan- dise.Quality Study
Three shirts of each brand were
purchased
for purposes of
quality
evaluation. This eval- uation consisted of twoparts:
(1) appearance before use, and (2) appearance afterrepeated laundering. Appearance
before use wasbased on
garment
construction features suchas shirt
length,
number of stitches perinch, yoke type, pocket
and collarconstruction,
2 There are no similar requirements for shirts manufac-
tured domestically. However, the fact that all imported
shirts must be labeled with respect to country of origin
means that all unlabeled shirts are manufactured domes-
tically. The origin of domestic shirts used in this study
was confirmed by discussions with store buyers and do-
mestic shirt manufacturers.
and number and
type
of buttons. Abinary
code
(0,1)
was used toassign
a numericalvalue to each construction feature with &dquo;0&dquo;
indicating
the absence of aparticular
feature(eg.,
doubleyoke,
a measurement less than the average for allshirts,
shirtlength
less than31
inches).
The total score obtained for all construction features was used in ananalysis
of variance to determine the
significance
ofquality
differencesby
brand andorigin.
Launderings
were used topredict
the du-rability
of men’s shirts and appearance afteruse based on work
by Handy
(1968) and Galeand Dardis (1970). The shirts were laundered 50 times
following
theprocedure specified
in AATCC 143-1975:
Appearance
ofApparel
and Other Textile End Products after
Repeated
Home
Launderings
(1977). TheWhirlpool
model 600 automatic washer and tumble
dryer
were used forall launderings.
Thedryer
was set at the
permanent
press fabricsetting
with a medium
temperature
of 140 to 160 de- grees Fahrenheit and a 30-minutedrying cycle.
The shirts were removedimmediately
after the
dryer
shut off and wereplaced
onhangers.
The shirts wereinspected
foredge
abrasion and seam failure after the
first, fifth, tenth, twenty-fifth,
and fiftiethlaunderings.
In
addition,
durable press appearance andseam
puckering
were ratedby
apanel
ofthree
judges using
the AATCC Test Method124-1975:
Appearance
of Durable Press Fabrics afterRepeated
HomeLaunderings
(1977) andthe AATCC Test Method 88B-1978:
Appear-
ance of Seams in Wash-and-Wear Items after Home
Laundering
(1977).Ratings
in both in-stances were on a scale from one to five.
Mean
ratings
for the three shirts were used in the statisticalanalysis.
STATISTICAL
ANALYSISAnalysis
of variance was used to determinewhether
significant price
andquality
differ-ences existed between national and
private
brands or domestic and
imported
brands(Neter and
Wasserman,
1974). The 0.05 level ofsignificance
was used. Twoanalyses
wereconducted for
price.
The firstanalysis
wasconfined to the first 10 weeks of the
study
when no sales occurred. The second
analysis
was confined to a sale
period
whenprices
were reduced. In this manner the
impact
ofsales on
price
variations could be investi-gated.
RESULTS
Price Variations
Mean
prices
in thepre-sale period by
brandtype
andorigin
aregiven
in Table 1. Data per-tain to the first 10 weeks of the survey when there were no sales. The mean
prices
of do-mestic and
imported
shirts were$11.75
and$10.44 respectively,
which means that im-ported
shirts wereapproximately
11percent cheaper
than domestic shirts.The mean
prices
of national andprivate
brands were
$13.07
and$9.12, respectively.
This
price
difference wasexpected
since it re-flects the influence of brand
type (national
brands aregenerally
moreexpensive
thanpri-
vate
brands)
and storetype (traditional
de-partment
stores havehigher mark-ups
in gen- eral than national chaindepartment
stores).A statistical
analysis indicating
the effects of brand andorigin
on thepre-sale price
isgiven
in Table 2. There are no
significant
interaction effects while the two main effects for brand andorigin
aresignificant.
Time isinsignificant reflecting
theprice stability
mentioned ear-lier.
Impact
of Sales on Price VariationsThe
impact
of sales onprice
differences wasinvestigated
for a four-weekperiod
whenmost brands were still stocked
by
thestores.3
Mean
prices by
brand andorigin
aregiven
inTable 1. There was a decline in the
price
ofnational brands
during
the saleperiod ($13.07
to
$9.99)
while theprice
ofprivate
brands re-mained
unchanged
at$9.12.
As a result of thesale
price, private
brands were ninepercent
cheaper
than national brandscompared
to 30percent
in thepre-sale period. Similarly,
im-ported
shirts were fourpercent cheaper
thandomestic
shirts, compared
to 11percent
in thepre-sale period.
A
three-way analysis
of variance of saleprice
indicated that brand andorigin again
had a
significant
influence onprice. However,
there was also asignificant
interaction be- tween brand andorigin.
Sinceprices
of na-tional brands were
higher
thanprices
ofpri-
vate brands for both domestic and
imported shirts,
itmight
be concluded that brand wassignificant.
In contrast, theimpact
oforigin
varied
by
brand. Prices of national brandswere unaffected
by origin
whileprices
of im-ported private
brands were less thanprices
ofdomestic
private
brands.Quality
VariationsQuality
was based ongarment
appearance before and afterrepeated launderings.
An ex-amination of shirts before
laundering
re-vealed little difference in appearance or gar-
ment construction. Shirts were identical with
respect
toyoke type, pocket
and collar con-struction,
and number andtype
of buttons.They
differed withrespect
to shirtlength (30.5&dquo;-32.0&dquo;)
and number of stitches per inch (9.5-13.0).However,
the latter variable didnot affect seam
durability
which was testedby repeated launderings. Two-way analysis
of3One imported national brand was out of stock during
the sale period. This was not surprising since retailers are unlikely to re-order imports late in the season. The out-
of-stock brand had sold for the same price as a domestic
national brand during the pre-sale period. A discussion
with store management indicated that it would have sold for the same price as the domestic national brand during
the sale period.
variance based on scores obtained for all con-
struction features indicate that brand and or-
igin
wereinsignificant
for appearance beforelaundering.
Appearance
afterlaundering
wasjudged
onedge abrasion,
seamfailure,
durable pressratings,
and seampucker ratings.
There wasneither
edge
abrasion nor seam failurethroughout
the 50laundering cycles
for any of theeight
brands. In contrast, durable pressratings
and seampucker ratings
declined asthe number of
launderings increased,
withthe
greatest
declineoccurring
in the first fivelaunderings.
Mean
ratings by
brandtype
andorigin
aregiven
in Table 3.Imported
shirts receivedhigher ratings
than domestic shirts in the caseof seam
pucker,
andslightly
lowerratings
inthe case of durable press. Private brands re-
ceived
slightly higher ratings
than national brands in both instances.The
significance
ofbrand, origin,
and laun-dering
onquality,
as measuredby
durablepress and seam
pucker ratings,
was investi-gated using three-way analysis
of variance.The results are
given
in Tables 4 and 5.Origin
and number of
launderings
aresignificant
fac-tors in the case of seam
pucker ratings
whilebrand is
insignificant.
The results for durable pressratings require
care ininterpretation
due to the
significance
of the interaction ef- fect betweenorigin
and brand. This interac- tion effect reflects the fact thatimported
shirts receive
higher ratings
than domestic shirts in the case ofprivate
brands and lowerratings
in the case of national brands(Table
3), reflecting
thejoint
effect oforigin
andbrand
type.
Care must be
used, however,
in inter-preting
these results in view of therelatively
small differences shown in Table 3. In the
case of durable press
ratings,
the differences range from one-tenth to two-tenths on a five-point
scale. It isquestionable
whether theconsumer can
distinguish
such small differ- ences, and a difference which issignificant
ina statistical sense may not be
significant
toconsumers. A similar situation occurs in the
case of seam
pucker ratings
for national andprivate
brands. Theonly
instance where a dif- ference inratings might
be discernibleby
consumers is in the case of domestic and im-
ported
shirts where there is ahalf-point quality
difference. Itmight
beconcluded, therefore,
that there are somequality
differ-ences between domestic and
imported
shirtsin the case of seam
pucker ratings
and neg-ligible quality
differences in all other in- stances.DISCUSSION
Price and
quality
differences foreight
brands of men’s dress shirts were
investigated during
a four-monthperiod.
Data were ob-tained
by
brand andorigin (domestic
and im-ported).
National brands were selected froma traditional
department
store andprivate
brands were selected from national chain de-
partment
stores.Thus,
the data for national andprivate
brands reflect the influence of both brand and storetype.
A
major finding
of thestudy
was the exis-tence of
significant price
differences between domestic andimported
brands in thepre-sale period. Imported
shirts wereapproximately
11
percent cheaper
than domestic shirts. Thisfinding
is inagreement
with thestudy by
Cline (1978) which found that
imported
ap-parel
from Latin America and Asia was 11.6percent
lessexpensive
than domestic ap-parel.
It is also inagreement
with the pro- duction cost differences mentionedby
KurtSalmon Associates (1981).
There were no
major quality
differences be-tween domestic and
imported shirts,
with thepossible exception
of seampucker ratings
where
imported
shirts received 10percent
higher ratings
than domestic shirts. This is notsurprising
since national brand manufacturers andprivate
brand distributors arelikely to
usethe same set of
product specifications
forshirts manufactured in the United States or
abroad. Variations in
product quality
due tomanufacturing
location would reflect poorquality
control which could affect the sales of all shirts sold under aparticular
brand name.In
addition,
the use of the same set ofproduct specifications
is feasible in view of the avail-ability
ofapparel technology
toforeign
pro-ducers.
According
to astudy by
theGeorgia
World
Congress
Institute(1979),
U.S. and for-eign producers
use similar fabric andequip-
ment and differ
only
withrespect
tolabor,
where
foreign
countries have acomparative advantage
in costs,productivity,
and reli-ability.
The results of this
study
also indicate that brand and storetype
had asignificant
influ-ence on
price during
thepresale period.
Pri-vate brands from national chain
department
stores were
approximately
30percent cheaper
than national brands
purchased
in a tradi-tional
department
store.However,
there wereno
major quality
differences between national andprivate
brands. These results are in agree- ment with studiesreported
in the literature and reflect differences inpricing policies
andmarkups
for manufacturer and distributor brands(Gale
andDardis, 1970;
Watson andDardis,
1971).It was also
interesting
to note that sales nar-rowed the
price
difference between domestic andimported
shirts and between national andprivate
brands.Imported
shirts wereonly
four
percent cheaper
than domestic shirtsduring
the saleperiod,
whileprivate
brandswere nine
percent cheaper
than national brands.These
findings
indicate that brand and storetype, origin,
and time ofpurchase
influenceprices paid by
consumers.Imported private
brands have the lowest
prices
while domesticnational brands have the
highest prices.
How-ever, the 38
percent price
differences in thepresale period
was reduced to a 13percent price
differenceduring
the saleperiod.
The existence of
price
differences forprod-
ucts of similar
quality
also raisesquestions concerning
consumerpurchasing
decisionsand the need for consumer education pro- grams in the area of textiles. Shirts are a semi- durable
good
so that consumers maysample
a
variety
ofproducts
over time. Inaddition,
the
price
of shirts means that suchsampling
is
relatively inexpensive.
Onemight expect, therefore,
smallerprice
differences than those found in thisstudy.
Such differences reflect information failures which should be of concern to consumer educators in the field of textiles andclothing.
Some limitations of the
study
must also beacknowledged.
Theanalysis
was confined toa
single apparel category
and to asingle
re-gion
of thecountry.
While it could beargued
that
national chain department
stores arelikely
to offer similar merchandise for similarprices throughout
the United States,pricing policies
of otherdepartment
stores may vary.Further
analysis
wouldprovide
additional in-sight concerning price
andquality
differences for domestic andimported apparel.
However, it isinteresting
to note that thefindings
ofthis
study
are similar to those obtained in anational survey
by
Cline (1978).Finally
the results of thisstudy
should alert home economists to the economic andpolit-
ical issues involved in any discussion of the
gains
from trade. These issuesapply
to allconsumer
goods,
notjust apparel. Thus,
theeconomic
theory
ofcomparative advantage
favors the
production
of labor intensivegoods
inlow-wage
countries and theirimport by
advanced industrial countries such as the United States. As aresult, imported goods
may be
cheaper
than domesticgoods
evenafter allowances for tariff and
transportation
costs. The
degree
to which cost differencesare
passed
on to consumers in the form oflower retail
prices
is a function ofcompetitive
conditions in
retailing
and should result in lowerprices
forimports
andpossibly
do-mestic
goods. Thus,
the claimby
domesticmanufacturers that consumers do not benefit from lower cost
imports
must be examinedcritically
since such claimsignore
retail com-petition
and may bedesigned
toprovide jus-
tification for a continuance or increase in pro- tection. It isimportant
in such an examination torecognize
thedivergence
between pro-ducer and consumer
interests;
adivergence
which was
recognized
many years agoby
Adam Smith
(1952;
pp. 287-289).REFERENCES
American
Apparel
Manufacturers Association,Ap- parel
Trade Under 807.Washington,
D.C.: Amer- icanApparel
Manufacturers Association, 1980.Apparel’s
last stand. Business Week, 1979, 23, May, 4, 60-66.AATCC. Test Method 143-1975.
Appearance
andOther Textile End Products After
Repeated
Home
Launderings.
ResearchTriangle
Park, NC:American Association of Textile Chemists and
Colorists, 1977.
AATCC. Test Method 124-1975.
Appearance
of Du-rable Press Fabrics After
Repeated
Home Laun-derings.
ResearchTriangle
Park, NC: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,1977.
AATCC. Test Method 88 B-1978.
Appearance
ofSeams in Wash-and-Wear Items After Home
Laundering.
ResearchTriangle
Park, NC: Amer-ican Association of Textile Chemists and Color-
ists, 1977.
Bader, S. S. U.S. mill
products
win overimports
insurvey. Modern Textile Business, 1982, De- cember 1.
Cline, W. R. Imports and Consumer Prices. Wash-
ington,
D.C.: American Retail Federation, 1978.Dickerson, K. G.
Imported
versus U.S.produced apparel:
Consumer views andbuying
patterns.Home Economics Research Journal, 1982, 10,
241-252.
Gale, A., and Dardis, R.
Predicting
Product Perfor-mance
by
Price. Textile Chemist and Colorist.1970, 2, 23-27.
General
Agreement
on Tariffs and Trade. Protocolextending
the arrangementregarding
Interna-tional trade textiles, Geneva, 1981.
Georgia
WorldCongress
Institute, The U.S.Ap- parel Industry:
The Causes for its Decline in In- ternationalCompetitiveness
and What Could beDone to Reverse It,
Washington,
D.C.:Georgia
World
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