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Problems of Export Oriented Woven Fabric in Bangladesh

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Since the early 1980s, the RMG industry has emerged as an important player in the country's economy and has gradually replaced the jute industry. The success of the apparel industry is highly dependent on how effectively the RMG sector's linkages can work backwards and forwards. Domestic policies of successive governments have contributed to the rapid growth of this sector.

Improper ventilation, stuffy situation, dirty rooms are the characteristics of most of our factories. Parked vehicles, goods and waste on the outside of the building block exits to the outdoors. Daffodil International University Page 20 of 11.56 percent during the first eleven months of the current financial year over the corresponding period in the last financial year.

In the first half of the current financial year, Bangladesh's garment exports grew by 19.95 percent year-on-year. Bangladeshi knitwear is exported to 93 countries in the world, with the EU and the USA being the largest importers. The purpose of descriptive research is to obtain an accurate profile of the people, events or situations.

By using the survey questionnaire and published literature, this study took a combined quantitative and qualitative research approach.

Data Collection

Primary Sources

Key Informant Interview

Secondary Sources

Data Analysis………………………………………………………………………… 27-67

Market condition………………………………………………………………….... 31-33

  • Raw Materials Check……………………………………………………..…... 61-63

Fabric is the main raw material for making a garment and accounts for 75 percent of the garment's cost. But in the case of power looms, they can increase the production capacity with a large investment to meet a part of the demand of the RMG sector. In the long term, Bangladeshi weaving mills need a large volume of yarn production to meet the demand in the domestic and export markets.

According to BGMEA, BKMEA and Export Promotion Bureau Bangladesh have exported the below in previous 12 years. Påskelilje International University Page 36 It was in the financial year 2003-04 that knitwear surpassed woven wear for the first time and became the leader in terms of volume exports with 91.6 million dozens against 90.48 million dozens of woven garments. Messalina Textile Mills Ltd has been producing about 40,000 yards of gray woven fabrics per day ranging from 120GSM to 450GSM of the medium and heavy sheets, Twills, Poplins, Herringbone, Bedford, Ottoman, Dobby etc.

Due to the lack of advanced machines, the latest technology and skilled workers, we cannot meet the customer's requirements all the time. The turnaround time for the delivery of garments to overseas buyers will be a major component in the field of competition during the manufacturing period. Daffodil International University Page 57 changes in market conditions are a common practice for buyers in the US, so delivery time is one of the main factors that would lead to increased competitiveness in the apparel trade.

Daffodil International University Page 58 order volume for the same style now split into a small number of different orders. During bulk production and sampling, regular and close monitoring of the process by skilled personnel is ensured at every step to avoid any discrepancy between the actual product and the approved sample. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness and silkiness are all terms that describe the dexterity of the fabric.

Fabric weight can be expressed in two ways, either as "weight per unit area" or as "weight per unit length"; the former is self-explanatory, but the latter requires a little explanation because the weight per unit length of a fabric will obviously be affected by its width. The strict requirement regarding light fastness is becoming more and more important both on the European and American markets. It also depends a lot on the concentration of the dye, the thickness of the layer and the binder; other factors such as the spectral composition of the incident light and atmospheric humidity also play an important role.

Color fastness is a term used in the dyeing of textile materials, meaning the resistance of the material's color to fading or running. Påskelilje International University Page 63 The light fastness of the textile dye is categorized from one to eight and the wash fastness from one to five.

Figure -5.2. Comparative Statement on Export of RMG and total export of  Bangladesh.(Data Source Export Promotion Bureau  Compiled by BGMEA)
Figure -5.2. Comparative Statement on Export of RMG and total export of Bangladesh.(Data Source Export Promotion Bureau Compiled by BGMEA)

Costing problem

Quality problem………………………………………………….………………. 63-67

Burl Mark: When a bit or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, it is often removed by a burr tool. Dropped Pick: Causes the filling insertion mechanism on a boatless loom not holding the filling yarn, causing the filling yarn to be woven without tension Missing End: End Out Caused by yarn breakage and continuation of the Torun loom with a missing end.

Jerk-in: Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being partially drawn into the fabric by the shuttle. Yarn from a different fiber blend used on the wrapping frame, creating a stripe in the fabric. Mixed filling: Created by a spool of lightweight yarn or other fiber blend used in the filling.

Warp Yarn Deflection: Open Reed The result of a bent reed wire, which holds the winding ends apart, exposing the filler yarn. Stop Mark: When the loom is stopped, the yarn is stretched under tension; when the loom starts again', the limpness is woven into the fabric. Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to spin until the operator notices the problem.

Pinholes: Holes along the edge caused by pins holding fabric as it processes through the soft frame. Sanforize Pucker: Results from uneven wetting on sanforize; usually caused by faulty spray heads. Water stains: Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to sit too long before drying; color migrates and leaves mottled spots.

The number of spinning mills is increasing and as a result the amount of yarn production has increased these days. Table-5.1). To meet the domestic demand for fabric and to reduce the cost of importing yarn, the number of spinning mills has increased. The maximum amount of yarn produced is cotton and the amount of synthetic fibers such as polyester, viscose, acrylic etc. are limited.

Imported yarn and their sourcing

Growth of RMG sector

Export oriented woven products

Exporting country of Bangladesh

Production condition of different factories of Bangladesh

Countries we generally import fabric

Comparative study between imported fabric and local fabric

Some steps to improve the sector

Factories buy yarn using LC from domestic market these days. Small batch mills obtain yarn from local yarn mills on cash or order basis. Factories have to get cash amount while exporting garments by buying yarn from domestic market using cash memo.

Specialized home textile materials like fabrics and woven fabrics should be exported with 15% cash assistance instead of 5%. Minimizing the field interests of the near dead company should be given to resolve the bank loan and improve the growth of their company.[Ref#39].

The influence of policy on factories export activity……………………..……………… 71-72

  • Pricing policies
  • Financial and monetary policies
  • Relationship between government and the enterprise sector

High interest rates made working capital and investments in fixed assets more expensive, which led to the postponement of some investments in technology. Provisions for tax credits or the implementation of refund schemes were not appropriate for the purposes of such schemes. The problem of practical delays in the payment of export incentives is particularly noticeable in the case of export factories.

The effect of practical delays is to reduce the effectiveness of the export incentives that have been introduced. The relationship between government and business affects cooperation with business and the effectiveness of government policy. The need to adapt and innovate led to the development of a wide range of technical skills, especially in various branches of engineering.

Strong orientation to market demands led to a proliferation of products, often produced within large, vertically integrated conglomerates.

Policy implications……………………………………………………….. 73-75

  • Economic reforms and industrialization
  • Export orientation or import substitution
  • Local or foreign investment
  • Regional cooperation and trade agreements………………..……………..…...... 74-75

Foreign investment in particular could help fill some important gaps in the capabilities of our factories. The volume of trade to countries in the region was found to be influenced by the nature of regional cooperation and trade agreements. This finding calls for a reassessment of the viability of small-scale import substitution and for much more attention to regional cooperation and trade, which can leverage economies of scale.

This study has shown that even to maintain local markets, sooner or later competition with other regions of the world will have to be entered into. Even though imported products are not well suited to local conditions, outside competitors have sometimes entered the market by offering their products at lower prices or by supplying products with better finishes. The investigation revealed some cases where competitors from other regions have created products.

No particular feature of international demand seems to preclude the need for continuous efforts to achieve and maintain competitiveness in such markets. To improve the export oriented woven fabric sector, we should follow the advice provided by BSTMPIA & BGMEA so that we can benefit from shorter delivery time and cost. Tahlil and NasirUddin, 2003, “Challenges for the Garment Sector in Bangladesh after 2004: Pathways for Survival and Growth” Bangladesh Institute of International and Strategic Studies Journal, Vol.

Rahman and A.Raihan, 2002, “Contribution of the RMG Sector to the Bangladesh Economy”, CPD Occasional Paper Series, Paper 50. Islam, Sadequl, 2001, The Textile and Clothing Industry of Bangladesh in a Changing World Economy, CPD and The University Press Ltd. Johan, Sarwat, 2005, “The end of the multi-fiber scheme: challenges and opportunities for Bangladesh”, WBI policy paper.

Entrepreneurs and Economic Development: The Remarkable Story of Bangladesh Garment Exports, University Press Limited, Dhaka. Globalization, Growth and Employment', Chapter 2 in Mustafa, M. Konci), Bangladesh: Economic and Social Challenges of Globalization, A Study Prepared for ILO Geneva, UPL, Dhaka. The slowdown in Bangladesh's export sector and women workers: assessing the effects and identifying coping strategies, CPD Occasional Paper Series No.

Gambar

Table -5.1. Bangladesh: Production and Consumption of Yarn and Fabric Rise
Figure -5.2. Comparative Statement on Export of RMG and total export of  Bangladesh.(Data Source Export Promotion Bureau  Compiled by BGMEA)

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