1995 BMW 525iT (E34)
Fuel Pump Replacement
Note: Parts sources that I have checked show that BMW arbitrarily used two different style fuel pumps on this E34 model. You need to determine which one you need by first looking at which type is
currently ins talled. This can be done by performing the first seven steps below and shouldn’t take more than five to ten minutes. It is also a considerably less messy procedure if the fuel level in the tank is low.
Warning: Fuel will be exposed and, more than likely, spilled during this procedure. Do not smoke or allow any possible sources of ignition in the area while working. It is highly recommended that the battery cable for the vehicle be removed prior to beginning.
Access to the fuel pump area is easy.
[1] Lift and remove the rear floor panel over the spare tire area.
[2] Remove the spare tire cover panel.
[3] Remove the tray to the right of the spare tire well (you may find it easier to remove this by first opening the hatch for the window washer reservoir).
[4] Remove the fuel tank access cover by removing the five attachment screws.
Next, you remove the fuel-level sending unit.
[5] Slide the metal retaining clip, in the direction shown, to release the electrical connector. Note that this retainer is part of the connector and should not come completely off.
[6] Undo the clamps and remove the two lines attached to the unit. DO NOT switch these two lines; one is the inlet line and the other is the return line. Mark each hose and where it goes on the housing before removing.
You should plug the two lines to prevent intrusion of dirt (I use uncut tips from silicone sealer tubes as they are tapered and fit many hole sizes). These lines must also be moved out of the way and they fit nicely below the upper right lip of the access opening.
Connector removed and hoses plugged:
Now, remove the fuel pump itself.
This should resemble what you see once the entire assembly is removed:
I used the word “resemble” because of the two different style fuel pumps used on the E34 model. Mine happened to be the one that has the barbed fitting on it. The other type has a banjo type fitting.
Installation:
From this point it should be a simple matter of swapping the new pump for the old one.
Note: The pump will only latch into position in the tank one way, so if you have difficulty getting it to simply snap into place, you might need to rotate it 180 degrees.
Reinstall the pump and then the fuel- level sending unit, making certain the wires are connected to the correct terminals, that the fuel lines go to the correct fittings, that none are crimped or twisted and that the fuel lines are properly clamped. A new gasket for the sending unit is recommended.
Note: Silicone sealer is not suitable for use in applications where gasoline is present, it will dissolve.
