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THE EXTREME POSITION AND AMPLITUDE AMPLIFICATION OF BICHROMATIC WAVES PROPAGATION BASED ON THIRD ORDER SOLUTION OF BOUSSINESQ EQUATION | . | Journal of the Indonesian Mathematical Society 54 208 1 PB

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J. Indones. Math. Soc. (MIHMI)

Vol. 14, No. 2 (2008), pp. 95–110.

THE EXTREME POSITION AND AMPLITUDE

AMPLIFICATION OF BICHROMATIC WAVES

PROPAGATION BASED ON THIRD ORDER

SOLUTION OF BOUSSINESQ EQUATION

Marwan and Andonowati

Abstract.This paper concerns with the down-stream propagation of waves over initially still water. Such a study is relevant to generate waves of large amplitude in wave tank

of a hydrodynamic laboratory. Input in the form of a time signal is provided at the

wave-maker located at one side of the wave tank; the resulting wave then propagates

over initially still water towards the beach at the other side of the tank. Experiments

show that nonlinear effects will deform the waves and may lead to large wave with waves

height larger than twice the original input; the deformation may show itself as peaking

and splitting. It is direct scientific interest to understand and quantify the nonlinear

distortion; it is also much practical interest to know at which location in the wave tank,

the extreme position, the waves will achieve their maximum amplitude and to know the

amplitude amplification factor. To investigate this, a previously introduced concept called

Maximal Temporal Amplitude (MTA) is used: at each location the maximum over time of

the wave elevation. An explicit expression of the MTA cannot be found in general from the

governing equations and generating signals. In this paper we will use Boussinesq model

and third order approximation theory to calculate the approximate extreme positions

and amplification factor for wave-group that originate from initially bi-chromatic type of

wave. The wave is described by superposition of two monochromatic waves. We show

that, the extreme position depends on the amplitude and the wave length of the group.

The theoretical results are verified with numerical as well as experimental results for

comparison.

Received 11-04-2008, Accepted 27-11-2008.

2000 Mathematics Subject Classification: 35Q35, 35Q53

Key words and Phrases: Boussinesq equation, MTA, wave propagation, asymtotic expansion, AAF, extreme position.

Marwan: Department of Mathematics, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Jl. Tgk. Daud Bereuh No 4, Darussalam-Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia.

E-mail: marwan.ramli@math-usk.org

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