I am also very grateful for the opportunities I have had to explore the resources in the Butterick Patterns Archives/Library. Illustrated items belonging to the Smithsonian Institution are in the collections of the Division of Costumes, unless otherwise specified.
Before Dressmakers' Drafting Systems
They ranged from simple to fantastic combinations of the square and the tape measure (Figure 7). For example, the 1769 French source stated that the four pieces were for the back and the two for the front.
A 19th Century Invention
When the naval architect plans the forms of sheet metal required to cover the hull, his main concern is to make the most efficient use of standard-sized sheet metal. If she had a good understanding of anatomy, her tasks might have been made easier, but most 19th century fashion prescribed dress shapes that bore little relation to the natural shape of the female body.
The flood of European immigrants in the latter half of the 19th century added large numbers of men and women to the working population. The final incentive for the commercial development of workable drafting systems was added with the advent of the sewing machine, which became available in the early 1850s.
Earliest Evidence of Dressmakers' Drafting Systems
This drawing device was illustrated (Figure 16a) and discussed as background in the application for the first US. The uniqueness of this pre-1838, pre-Tentler system leads me to speculate that this method was not created by a tailor for use in the United States. tailoring trade.
Proportional Systems
Half of the actual waist circumference was used to determine how much of the waist on the pattern would be allocated. The other fundamental weakness of the perforated proportional systems is found in the form of the tool.
Hybrid Systems
Chappell's Perforated Tool for the Hybrid System, located in the Prints and Photographs Division of the Library of Congress (Appendix II). Beautifully perforated, precisely curved 1890 hybrid system tool pieces, printed on cardstock for Markley & Son, Topeka, Kansas.
PRICE, $15.CO (^^
Use letter V to draw line K. J Measure line A from point 2 the length of the back measure and set point 4. 6 Draw line D straight from point 4 about $ inch. 2 Measure from point 2 the width of the shape under the arms as given in the table and set point 3.
Centennial Medal of Highest Merit
And by changing the drafting process as fashions changed, Taylor was able to keep his system up to date.^^. Kohler reported that they intended to keep their customers up to date with annual additions.
Direct-Measure Systems
The main types of these direct measurement systems can be divided into three groups based on the common features of the tools: square, adjustable and conformal. Wilson's square tool with curves, which was printed on paper and included with his 1880 instruction booklet, which described a system for direct measurements.
Patented Jnne 26, 188a
MCDOWELL. ^
Adjustable Pattern-Plates for Drafting Q-arments
T h e complete system - including a copper tool, instruction book, measuring book, square, diagram for setting machine, diagram for measuring, tracking wheel, tape line, and b o x - co s t $17.50.
INSTEUCTION BOOK
DRAFTING AND CUTTING
Diyaagiramoonni bifa paatentii qabu kan biraa meeshaa fakkii safartuu kallatti Albert McDoweirs (U.S. Patent 310,297), paatentii Mudde 11, 1883 galmaa’e.Ill. pUtM uid-firuvidfd loiijfitudiful IIMJ l.ooiTMpood tojii fi hulloii-hoteela waliin, ix\ ed|.'e. ID dabalataa palUrii qopheessuuf tbe 1 meiil, iwu ykn inorv dart-cuai haviuq isaanii lo»«r <.
H In an inflammable pit for setting up tb« b upright plateau 31', hraoeh or croH p i « e V , and eo otcd at n c h end and made in two Mparata parte.
WITNESSES'
JVEJTDH—
MCDOWELL
The tailor made 13 clearly marked adjustments in the front and four in the underarm. To the inexperienced tailor, the Buddington machine may seem similar to the McDowell machine, which had widespread publicity and popularity. The Pollock device completely encircled the torso and could be adjusted to fit snugly around the body.
He was so convinced of the value of his achievement that he was also granted a British patent, number 7652, in 1885.
P. WICKERSHAM
34;Conformateur and System Metrique," presented to Americans by Jean B. T he drawing instrument, as illustrated in his 1904 instruction book, need not be used as a matching device, but could have been adapted flat, just like the McDowell -machine Peyry's drawing tool was a conforming device, although it could be used flat like the McDowell machine as well as by placing it on the client. In 1885, William Bloomer Pollock of Philadelphia was patented in the United States (320,496) and Britain granted it corresponding device, which can be taken apart and laid flat.
Furthermore, Peyry's "conformateur" was calibrated for metric measurements, while seamstresses in the United States were more accustomed to working in inches.
Measuring Instruments
The curve of the back neck "Curve Scale" was also marked with a dividing scale. The drawing process for this system used a consistent "gauge" to determine the placement of 12 critical drawing points on the pattern paper, as well as a single line defining the height and slope of the breast darts. Four other tools, however, were needed to find other drawing points or to draw subtly curved lines that define the outlines of pattern pieces.
34;combined rule with ratchet and skirt" (Figure 48c) helped to establish the long graceful curves necessary for the sides of the four parts of the pattern - front, underarm, side back and back.
Selling the Systems
I doubt that Follett was aware that the perforations in his tools were probably first used by the creator of the pre-Tentler proportional drawing system for seamstresses (Figure 16a). In 1876 the first set of improved colored nickel engravings of the map was made (Figure 49a). This distinction could be advantageously noted by including drawings of the beautiful medal in the instruction booklet (Figure 28).
Not only did they extol the virtues of the system, but they offered special incentives to individuals who bought directly from them, as well as a "come now".
INTERNATIONAL liXHIBITION
The sellers of these systems recognized that it is part of human nature to be impressed by prices. The earliest advertisements that appeared in Harper's Bazar in the last quarter of the 19th century consisted of a few lines of text and perhaps a small illustration. Most techniques had to be demonstrated and the potential buyer offered special cutting lessons before any money changed hands.
Cornwell, whose photo appears on the back piece without any identification, was the original creator of this system.
RHIXJRT ON AWARDS
The later ads for the McDowell machine (Figure 52) were by far the most effective. An obsolete variant of Cornwell's perforated, curved, two-piece tool for a hybrid drawing system. Demorest's exhibit in the main building at the Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia in 1876, which displayed items reflecting the various businesses of her "Emporium of Fashions," including a large selection of size paper patterns shown in the black walnut octagonal box at left and the perforated drafdng- tool, called a "Dress Model".
Tlie Greatest Mention of tie Ap
Typical testimonials published in his 1885 instruction book extolled the virtues of the system, but emphasized the success writers had in selling the charts—because they worked so well. As a lure, Cornwell offered a "self-adjusting system" to any individual at an agent's cost of $2.50 if the buyer thought they would try to sell the system. The reader was troubled by the thought that there was no set retail cost of the system; the agent can charge any price.
The final prize, a sewing machine, was awarded to an agent in Fennels, Canada, for the large sale-.
The Users
The systems of the 1850s, 60s and early 70s aimed equally at women sewing for themselves and aspiring dressmakers. Until the last two decades of the 19th century, garment cutting systems were mainly aimed at professional tailors. This change occurred when the latest designs dictated precisely fitted garments of more complex cuts and when direct measurement methods (with their greater degree of accuracy and difficulty) became popular.
34;ladies who live at a distance" with waist patterns and jackets cut to order to suit their figures if they would send the cost of the patterns, 20 or 25 cents, with their three measurements: bust, waist and underarm length ( Summer 1864: inside back cover).
JAMES LINDSAY,
Any pattern in the catalog can be ordered by mail from any part of the United States or Canada. McCall described their establishment in New York as "one of the best and most extensive in the world". To produce a fashionably shaped garment in the last quarter of the 19th century, most women found that these size (proportionately graduated) patterns had to be altered to fit.
In the last quarter of the 19th century, drawing systems were most commonly used by professional tailors.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MEASURING
Fashion in the early 20th century required skirts that were even more precisely fitted above the hips to emphasize the roundness of the wearer's derriere. The theory claims that women's fashion clothes focus sexual attention on a certain part of the body. Due to the new fashion, hybrid methods as well as direct measurement techniques were used by dressmakers and cutters in the early 20th century.
The early history of their use is obscured by the widespread use of the term "dress" to refer to other types of clothing.
TERN BROTHER
PRING AND SUMMER
TALOGUE, 18 NO
A DEP0S3T REQUIRED ON ALL GARMENTS MADE TO ORDER
DRESSES OF NEW AND CHARMING STYLE
In the 1880s, ready-made dresses were produced and offered to a wide population through mail-order catalogs. Most ready-made dresses of the 1880s were cut from patterns constructed using a simple hybrid system that incorporated waist circumference (Figure 65). With the more draped waist styles of the late 1890s, ready-made dresses were successfully sold based on bust size and skirt length alone.
This was a manageable inventory that a number of women could carry because of the looser styles.
Conclusions
C New York (Owego) New York (Riverhead) Illinois (Chicago) New York (New York) Indiana (Indianapolis) New York (Brooklyn) New Jersey (Newark). New York (New York) New York (Albany) New York (New York) Vermont (Bellows Falls) Pennsylvania. New York (New York) Illinois (Chicago) New York (New York) New York (New York) Illinois (Springfield).
New York (New York) Illinois (Chicago) Iowa (Burlington) Utah (Salt Lake City) New York (Syracuse). New York (New York) New Jersey (Newark) Illinois (Chicago) Oklahoma (Enid) New York (Manhattan) Canada (Ottawa). Southington) New York (New York) New York (Manhattan) Colorado (Denver) Missouri (Kansas City) Massachusetts (Boston) Massachusetts.
