ORIGINAL ARTICLE
Abstract
Previous research in sustainable fashion has placed a strong emphasis on transi- tioning to eco-friendly clothing that in turn contributes to a consumerist lifestyle.
Meanwhile, there has been little emphasis placed on second-hand clothing con- sumption practices, which are not particularly popular among Asian consumers. The purpose of this research is to investigate factors influencing second-hand clothing purchases in Indonesia. Several key concepts are proposed in this research, namely hedonism, guilt, ecological concern, price consciousness, purchase intention, and actual purchase. Purposive sampling via an online questionnaire yielded a total of 225 buyers of second-hand clothing. The data were analysed using the Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) method with SPSS and AMOS software. The findings reveal that: (1) hedonism has a positive relationship with the purchase intention of second-hand clothing (2) guilt has a positive relationship with the purchase inten- tion of second-hand clothing (3) ecological concern has a negative relationship with the purchase intention of second-hand clothing and lastly, (4) purchase intention has a positive relationship with the actual purchase of second-hand clothing.
Keywords Hedonism · Guilt · Ecological concern · Price consciousness · Second- hand Clothing · Sustainable fashion
Received: 9 March 2022 / Accepted: 2 July 2022
© The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2022
No longer look down: investigating second-hand clothing purchase in Indonesia
Jhanghiz Syahrivar1,2 · Kenny Kusuma1 · Randy Azhary Pahlevi3 · Yuling Wei2 · Chairy Chairy1 · Genoveva Genoveva1
Jhanghiz Syahrivar [email protected]
1 Faculty of Business, President University, Bekasi, Indonesia
2 Institute of Marketing, Corvinus University of Budapest, Budapest, Hungary
3 International Strategy and Future Students, Australian National University, Canberra, Australia
1 Introduction
The emergence of the fast fashion industry has shifted the consumerist lifestyle from durable to disposable clothing (Ozdamar Ertekin & Atik, 2015; Weber et al., 2017).
As a result, clothes are only worn for 3.5 years before being discarded, and only 15%
of them are recovered for recycling (Niinimäki et al., 2020). In other words, the fast fashion industry has turned consumers into impulsive buyers (Diddi et al., 2019). The industry has also been chastised for violating human rights (Perry et al., 2015; Van Oort, 2019) and degrading the environment (Pensupa et al., 2017; Shirvanimoghad- dam et al., 2020). Previous research in sustainable fashion, such as Dickenbrok
& Martinez (2018), has placed a strong emphasis on transitioning to eco-friendly clothing or labels that in turn contribute to a consumerist lifestyle. However, little emphasis has been placed on second-hand clothing consumption practices, which we believe is equally important in reducing the environmental pollution.
Previous research has shown that excessive clothing consumption is a serious threat to the environment. The reason for this is that two-thirds of discarded clothing is made of synthetic materials such as polymer, which takes 200 years to decompose (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020). Ironically, polyester dominated global textile pro- duction in 2018, accounting for 51% or 54 million tons, and is expected to rise even more as Asian and African customers continue to embrace westernization (Niinimäki et al., 2020). In Indonesia, roughly 31% of garbage is not collected by city services, and the uncollected trash is not managed properly or is even left unmanaged (Andri- ani & Atmaja, 2019). As a result, micro-plastics made of polypropylene derived from textiles were already polluting the Indonesian marine environment (Lestari &
Trihadiningrum, 2019; Khoironi et al., 2020). Although it cannot completely solve the problem, the circular economy concept provides a way to reduce environmental impacts by utilizing a resource in more than one cycle (Lieder & Rashid, 2016).
Reusing clothes has been identified as one of the best solutions for reducing the negative impacts of clothing consumption on the environment (Sandin & Peters, 2018). Moreover, customers can participate in minimizing the ecological problems by renting, trading, swapping and borrowing second-hand clothes (Zamani et al., 2017; Machado et al., 2019).
Previous research has identified several motives for second-hand clothing pur- chases. A previous study by Park & Lin (2020) suggests that consumers may buy second-hand clothing because they believe that doing so will help to alleviate envi- ronmental issues. This is consistent with general studies on sustainable behaviour (e.g., Rex et al., 2015), which indicate that consumers’ attitudes toward the severity of environmental problems are a key driver. Economic bargains, in the sense that they are less expensive than brand-new clothes, have also become a reason why people buy them (Machado et al., 2019). Other less explored and less counterintuitive fac- tors, such as hedonism, has been suggested, although the empirical evidence is still lacking (Hur, 2020). Moreover, an exploratory study by Bly et al., (2015) suggests that people may engage in sustainable fashion consumption, including purchasing second-hand clothing, to lessen their guilt.
The purpose of this research is to investigate factors influencing the purchase of second-hand clothing in Indonesia. Several key concepts have been proposed in this
research, namely hedonism, guilt, ecological concern, price consciousness, purchase intention and actual purchase. To the best of our knowledge, our research extends scarce literature in second-hand clothing purchases in the context of non-western customers. Firstly, the topic of second-hand clothing outside non-Western countries is relatively understudied (Kozlowski, 2021). Secondly, Indonesian consumers are still underrepresented in the literature due to the stigma associated with second-hand clothing purchases and the Indonesian government’s ban on imported second-hand clothing (Hansen, 2004). To echo Valor et al., (2022), imported second-hand clothing is traditionally sold as charity or donation in developing countries such as Indonesia, as a worthy alternative to clothing waste. However, in recent years, Indonesia has seen an increase in second-hand clothing rebranded as “vintage” fashion (see Paço et al., 2021), making this phenomenon worth investigating. Thirdly, while some of the concepts we proposed in this research, such as hedonism and ecological con- cern, have been studied in the context of green products (e.g., Tang et al., 2020;
Matin et al., 2021), they have received less attention in the context of used or second- hand clothing. Finally, as Dickenbrok & Martinez (2018) point out, more research is needed to address the intention-behavioural gap in the context of sustainable fashion.
The participation of Indonesians in the consumerist lifestyle has resulted in nega- tive perceptions of used goods, including second-hand clothing. The consumerist lifestyle in Indonesia has been a constant evaluation of social status dating back to the colonization era (Prabowo & Cooper, 2016). As a result, the consumerist lifestyle has come to be associated with the upper social class, whereas the purchase of used goods, such as second-hand clothing, has come to be associated with the lower social class (Soma, 2017). Because Asian culture emphasizes the importance of maintaining a good public image, these negative perceptions associated with second-hand cloth- ing cause Asian customers to avoid purchasing them (Xu et al., 2014; Fernando et al., 2018). However, previous studies in the context of Indonesia indicate that green and sustainable consumption practices among Indonesians are on the rise (Chairy et al., 2020; Genoveva & Syahrivar, 2020). Meanwhile, second-hand clothing consumption is a part of the sustainable and green fashion concept (Lee & DeLong, 2021).
The rest of this paper is organized as follows: the second section is the literature review in which key concepts are explained and hypotheses are argued. The third section is the research methodology, which details the measurement scales, sampling, and data processing methods. The fourth section is the findings where the statistical results of this research are presented. The fifth section is the discussions of the find- ings in light of previous studies on this research topic. The final section is the conclu- sion, which summarizes the research.
2 Literature Review 2.1 Hedonism
The word hedonism is derived from the Greek word “hedone,“ which means “plea- sure, joy, or delight” (O’Shaughnessy and O’Shaughnessy, 2002). Because of humans’ instinctual needs for pleasure, hedonism is inextricably linked with human
nature (O’Shaughnessy and O’Shaughnessy, 2002; Hoffmann et al., 2018). In today’s society, hedonism has been utilized as a tool to encourage mass consumerism. Adver- tisers are constantly urging customers to consume more by popularizing hedonic lifestyles throughout mass media (McDonald et al., 2017). The endorsement of the hedonic lifestyle has successfully replaced traditional values and become the new cultural representation that gives birth to a hedonic lifestyle as a culture (Welch, 2020) and standard of the good life (Borgerson & Schroeder, 2018). From the cus- tomer’s perspective, hedonism serves as a motivation that focuses on the customer’s pursuit of positive emotions (Kukar-Kinney et al., 2016). To better understand the role of hedonism in customer perception, the concept of hedonic consumption was developed to denote aspects of behaviour related to the multisensory, imaginative, and emotive aspects of user interaction with products (Baghi & Antonetti, 2017). In this research, hedonism is concerned with the delightful and pleasurable aspects of purchasing motivations.
2.2 Purchase intention
The role of intention, according to the theory of reasoned action, is to capture the desire and commitment required to carry out a behaviour (Ajzen, 1991; Tornikoski &
Maalaoui, 2019). Purchasing intention reflects a value assessment process performed by a customer during the transaction process and is an important predictor of actual purchase (Wang & Hazen, 2016). Customers generate desire and attributions toward a product during the purchase intention formation process, such as whether or not a product is essential, functional, and pleasurable. In other words, purchase intention influences whether or not a customer makes a purchase, with higher intention result- ing in greater product purchase possibilities (Lee et al., 2017).
Previous research has found that purchasing green products can help people achieve their hedonic goals. According to Szmigin and Carrigan’s concept of ethical hedonism (2005), consumers can derive pleasure from purchasing a product for the sake of personal satisfaction and the recognition of goodwill that it can provide to others. In other words, people may purchase green products to compensate for their concern for others while also serving their interests (Joshi & Rahman, 2015). Simi- larly, previous studies indicated that purchasing green products brings enjoyment and emotional satisfaction, which supported their hedonic goals (Tang et al., 2020; Matin et al., 2021). According to Xu et al., (2014), hedonism motivation is more (less) rel- evant in both individualistic and collectivistic societies: Americans shop for the thrill of finding unique items, whereas Chinese customers choose to purchase brand-new clothes due to price similarity as well as protecting one’s reputation. Furthermore, Liang & Xu (2018) discovered that hedonism motivation is the most common across generations because customers enjoy treasure hunting and believe they are wise buy- ers. Therefore, the first hypothesis is formulated as follows:
H1 Hedonism has a positive relationship with the purchase intention of second-hand clothing.
2.3 Guilt
Guilt-related negative emotions include feelings of regret, remorse, pain, and dis- comfort (Xu et al., 2011; Syahrivar & Pratiwi, 2018). The feeling of guilt denotes a violation of personal and interpersonal standards (Tignor & Colvin, 2017) or a fail- ure to meet those standards (Syahrivar et al., 2022). Guilty feeling is a self-criticism toward committed behaviour and a moral conflict triggered by concealed wrongdoing in a public-private perspective (Smith et al., 2002; Tracy & Robins, 2004). Certain consumption patterns could elicit feelings of guilt. To better understand the role of guilt feelings in customer behaviour, Burnett & Lunsford (1994) proposed consumer guilt as a concept that describes a condition in which consumers experience a loss of self-esteem and a sense of discomfort as a result of purchasing decisions that deviate from norms.
People who feel guilty tend to feel responsible and want to fix the situation, so they will buy a product that symbolically solves the deficit in question (Karanika &
Hogg, 2016; Syahrivar et al., 2021). In other words, as a reaction to guilt, customers are more likely to engage in compensatory behaviour as a form of moral cleansing (Syahrivar & Pratiwi, 2018; Syahrivar et al., 2022). Because guilt is capable of evok- ing pro-social initiative, attributing guilt to a specific product would drive people to purchase the products associated with the guilt feeling, in the sense that the guilt feel- ing would be reduced by acquiring those products (Kim & Johnson, 2013). Similarly, Cowan and Kinley’s (2014) term of environmental guilt described how people who believe their clothing consumption has harmed the environment are likely to feel guilty and compelled to act in an eco-friendly manner. Furthermore, an exploratory study by Bly et al., (2015) explained that people consume second-hand clothing as an “exit way” from the current fashion system, and purchasing second-hand clothes is shown to lower guilt over their consumption. Therefore, the second hypothesis is formulated as follows:
H2 Guilt has a positive relationship with the purchase intention of second-hand clothing.
2.4 Ecological concern
The ecological concern is defined as a broad attribution that captures customers’ level of concern about threats to the earth, the consequences of such threats for the bal- ance of nature and future generations, and humans’ inability to preserve ecologi- cal integrity for the future (Arisal and Atalar, 2016). An environmentally conscious individual recognizes that the entire product life cycle generated negative impacts at each stage (Joshi & Rahman, 2017). Beyond the concern for product life cycle, the ecological concern arose from an awareness of natural resources as communal yet finite commodities, where personal use of the resources has unavoidable conse- quences for other living beings (Kaiser et al., 2007; Gkargkavouzi et al., 2019). As a result, those who were concerned would continue to express their ecological concern through their pro-environmental behaviour (Rahman et al., 2015; Trivedi, Patel, and
Archaya, 2018). In other words, ecological concern reflects one’s attitude toward their ecosystem (Heo & Muralidharan, 2019).
As customer concerns about environmental issues emerge, they begin to trust ethi- cally produced commodities and seek a product that meets those criteria (Saleki et al., 2019). In other words, growing concern for the environment caused customers to behave in more environmentally friendly ways, assisting in the transformation of their traditional consumption behaviours into more ecologically oriented ones (Kir- mani & Khan, 2018). Customers believed that by purchasing green commodities, they were helping to reduce pollution (Hartmann and Apaolaza-Ibáez, 2012). Simi- larly, a sense of duty to combat climate change, whether for the sake of others or one- self, motivated people to engage in general activities that preserve the ecosystem as well as specific behaviour such as purchasing a green product (Yu et al., 2017). Fur- thermore, a study conducted by Park & Lin (2020) discovered that people who buy second-hand clothing hope to contribute to the reduction of environmental problems.
The reason for this is that people who actively contributed to the preservation of the ecosystem believed that their contribution was significant to the ecosystem (Lee et al., 2014). Therefore, the third hypothesis is formulated as follows:
H3 Ecological concern has a positive relationship with the purchase intention of second-hand clothing.
2.5 Actual purchase
Examining the actual purchase is critical because people frequently fail to fulfil their stated intentions (Ajzen et al., 2004; Testa et al., 2019). This disparity between inten- tion and behaviour has been referred to as the intention-behaviour gap (Carrington et al., 2010; Diddi et al., 2019). Because of its effectiveness in reflecting direct customer experience with the observed behaviour (Roos & Hahn, 2017), this research used past behaviour to measure actual purchases. In contrast to the possibility of misalignment between intention and future behaviour, Ajzen’s (2002) study suggested that past behaviour is consistent with future behaviour. People who rationalized why they had previously engaged in certain behaviours would continue to do so in the future (Hag- ger et al., 2018).
Previous research has found a link between purchase intention and purchase behaviour. In a study by Wei et al., (2017), customers’ intention to purchase green products led them to do so. Evidence from India in a study by Jaiswal & Kant (2018) suggested that customers consider quality and its impact on the ecosystem when making a purchase decision, and that purchase intention is a predictor of purchase behaviour. Furthermore, Rausch & Kopplin (2021) found that purchase intention influenced the actual purchase of sustainable clothing. Therefore, the fourth hypoth- esis is formulated as follows:
H4 Purchase intention has a positive relationship with the actual purchase of second- hand clothing.
2.6 Price Consciousness
According to Lichtenstein et al., (1993; p. 235), price consciousness is “the degree to which the consumer focuses exclusively on paying a low price”. According to Jin et al., (2003), when consumers consider money to be a resource that must be sacri- ficed during the purchase activities, they become price-conscious and actively seek the lowest available price. Price-conscious shoppers are willing to shop from store to store in search of the best deals and specials (Brown, 1978; Mägi & Julander, 2005) found that price-conscious customers had both objective and subjective store- price knowledge, which was attributed in part to frequent store visits and buying experiences.
Previous research suggests that financial circumstances and consumers’ attitudes toward money play roles in second-hand clothes purchases. For instance, Hur (2020) found that people in financial difficulty may find second-hand clothing appealing.
Diddi et al., (2019) discovered that perceived value was one of the important key drivers for sustainable clothing consumption, such as purchasing second-hand cloth- ing. In other words, people who buy second-hand clothing may be price-conscious to some degree and they buy second-hand clothing because they believe they can get high-quality clothing at a lower cost. We contend that people who are price-conscious may be more motivated to buy second-hand clothing because it aligns with their goal of obtaining low-cost goods. Being highly price conscious, thus, will strengthen the association between the intention and the actual purchase of second-hand clothing.
As a result, the fifth hypothesis is as follows:
H5 Price consciousness positively moderates the relationship between purchase intention and the actual purchase of second-hand clothing.
The theoretical framework of this research is illustrated in Fig. 1. Hedonism, guilt and ecological concern are independent variables, purchase intention is an interven- ing/mediating variable, actual purchase is a dependent variable, and price conscious- ness is a moderating variable.
Fig. 1 Theoretical Framework
3 Methods
In this research, the second-hand clothing purchases in Indonesia were investigated using a quantitative approach. Purposive sampling, a type of non-probability sam- pling technique, is used to determine the suitable respondents. To generate insight- ful results, this research scouted people who had previously purchased second-hand clothes. People who have purchased second-hand clothes, and thus are knowledge- able about the topic under investigation, may also have distinct and critical per- spectives on second-hand clothing purchases (Campbell et al., 2020). Social media platforms enable researchers to collect data on a variety of social issues in a short period (Grieve et al., 2014), while also providing equally reliable data as a pen-and- paper survey (McCormick et al., 2017). From May to December 2021, we distrib- uted an online questionnaire via five popular social media platforms in the country, including Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp, Twitter, and Line. We used hashtags such as #secondhandclothes, #usedclothes, #vintage and other related keywords to gather relevant respondents. In terms of sample size, at least 200 respondents are required to provide sufficient data for analysis and publication (Barrett, 2007). This research obtained and processed 225 valid respondents. The respondent profile is shown in Table 1.
The questionnaire was divided into two sections: In the first section, respondents were asked if they had purchased second-hand clothing in the past six months. In the second section, those who passed the preliminary question were asked about their purchase intention and actual purchase of second-hand clothing, followed by items related to respondents’ hedonism, guilt, and ecological concern. This research incorporated several measurement scales: a 6-item hedonism scale was adapted from Kukar-Kinney et al., (2016); a 6-item guilt scale was adapted from Jones et al., (2000); an 8-item ecological concern scale was adapted from Dunlap et al., (2000);
a 4-item purchase intention scale was adapted from Kumar et al., (2017); lastly, a 3-item actual purchase scale was adapted from Forsythe & Shi (2003). Based on Table 2, all of the items used to measure each construct of the variable had a Cron- bach’s Alpha value greater than 0.7. The result indicates that all of the construct measurements used in this research are reliable and adequate as a measurement for their respective construct.
N %
Gender Male 119 52.9
Female 106 47.1
Education Background With university degrees 184 81.8 Without university
degrees 41 18.2
Occupation Full-time students 87 38.67
Employees 118 52.44
Others (e.g. housewife,
retiree) 20 8.89
Age 18–30 195 86.67
31–50 18 8
> 50 12 5.33
Table 1 Respondent Profile
Notes: N = Number of Respondents, % = Percentage.
SPSS 26 and AMOS 22 were used to analyse the data in this research, and the data were analysed using the Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) method. First, we per- formed a reliability test to determine whether the research instruments are reliable.
Second, we used descriptive analysis to learn about the respondents’ attitudes toward each questionnaire item. Third, we performed a two-step process in data analysis:
Exploratory Factor Analysis (EFA) was used to examine the construct validity. Lastly, we conducted Confirmatory Factory Analysis (CFA) Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) analysis by using Schreiber et al.’s (2006) study as the guiding principle.
Table 2 Measurement Items
Variables Items Cron-
bach’s Alpha
Hedonism Shopping is fun. 0.932
Shopping is interesting.
Shopping is exciting.
Shopping is attractive.
Shopping is enjoyable.
Shopping is delightful.
Guilt I have recently done something that I deeply regret. 0.797
Lately, it hasn’t been easy being me.
I would give anything if, somehow, I could go back and rectify some things I have recently done wrong.
There is at least one thing in my recent past that I would like to change.
Recently, my life would have been much better if only I hadn’t done what I did.
I have been worried and distressed lately.
Ecological
Concern We are approaching the limit of the number of people the earth can support. 0.880 When humans interfere with nature, it often produces disastrous
consequences.
Humans are severely abusing the environment.
Plants and animals have as much right as humans to exist.
Despite our special abilities, humans are still subject to the laws of nature.
The earth is like a spaceship with very limited room and resources.
The balance of nature is very delicate and easily upset.
If things continue on their present course, we will soon experience a major ecological catastrophe.
Purchase
Intention I would like to use second-hand clothes. 0.826
I would buy second-hand clothes if happen to see them.
I would actively seek out second-hand clothes to purchase it.
I would patronize and recommend the use of second-hand clothes.
Price
Consciousness I am willing to spend extra effort to find lower prices. 0.751 I will shop at more than one store to take advantage of low prices.
The time it takes to find low-prices is usually worth the effort.
Actual Purchase I have purchased second-hand clothes in the last 6 months. 0.870 I have spent my resources on second-hand clothes in the last 6 months.
I have visited second-hand clothes shops (including e-commerce) in the last 6 months.
4 Findings
We began our findings with the descriptive analysis shown in Table 3.
Table 3 Descriptive Analysis
N Min Max Mean S.D
Shopping is fun. (HED1) 225 1 5 4.46 0.823
Shopping is interesting. (HED2) 225 1 5 4.45 0.817
Shopping is exciting. (HED3) 225 1 5 4.52 0.785
Shopping is attractive. (HED4) 225 1 5 4.30 0.998
Shopping is enjoyable. (HED5) 225 1 5 4.48 0.808
Shopping is delightful. (HED6) 225 1 5 4.35 0.885
I have recently done something that I deeply regret. (GLT1) 225 1 5 3.16 1.295
Lately, it hasn’t been easy being me. (GLT2) 225 1 5 3.61 1.267
I would give anything if, somehow, I could go back and rectify
some things I have recently done wrong. (GLT3) 225 1 5 3.60 1.319 There is at least one thing in my recent past that I would like to
change. (GLT4) 225 1 5 4.18 1.155
Recently, my life would have been much better if only I hadn’t
done what I did. (GLT5) 225 1 5 3.14 1.425
I have been worried and distressed lately. (GLT6) 225 1 5 3.50 1.310 We are approaching the limit of the number of people the earth can
support. (ECC1) 225 1 5 4.02 1.028
When humans interfere with nature, it often produces disastrous
consequences. (ECC2) 225 1 5 4.17 1.027
Humans are severely abusing the environment. (ECC3) 225 1 5 4.34 0.979 Plants and animals have as much right as humans to exist. (ECC4) 225 1 5 4.31 1.122 Despite our special abilities, humans are still subject to the laws of
nature. (ECC5) 225 1 5 4.32 1.032
The earth is like a spaceship with very limited room and resources.
(ECC6) 225 1 5 4.31 1.014
The balance of nature is very delicate and easily upset. (ECC7) 225 1 5 4.37 0.903 If things continue on their present course, we will soon experience
a major ecological catastrophe. (ECC8) 225 1 5 4.42 0.970
I would like to use second-hand clothes. (INT1) 225 1 5 3.69 0.925 I would buy second-hand clothes if happen to see them. (INT2) 225 1 5 3.38 1.197 I would actively seek out second-hand clothes to purchase it.
(INT3) 225 1 5 3.04 1.242
I would patronize and recommend the use of second-hand clothes.
(INT4) 225 1 5 3.35 1.164
I am willing to spend extra effort to find lower prices. (PCS1) 225 1 5 3.83 1.211 I will shop at more than one store to take advantage of low prices.
(PCS2) 225 1 5 3.89 1.179
The time it takes to find low-prices is usually worth the effort.
(PCS3) 225 1 5 4.00 1.178
I have purchased second-hand clothes in the last 6 months. (BHV1) 225 1 5 2.50 1.411 I have spent my resources on second-hand clothes in the last 6
months. (BHV2) 225 1 5 2.57 1.355
I have visited second-hand clothes shops (including e-commerce)
in the last 6 months. (BHV3) 225 1 5 3.10 1.513
N = Number of respondents, Min = Minimum, Max = Maximum, S.D = Standard Deviation.
We conducted KMO and Bartlett’s Test to test the sampling adequacy. The weight- ings of the Kaiser-Meyer-Olkin (KMO) Measure of Sampling Adequacy are classi- fied as marvellous if the result is above 0.90, meritorious if the result is within .80s, middling if the result is within .70s, mediocre if the result is within .60s, miserable if the result is within .50s, and unacceptable if the result is below 0.50 (Kaiser & Rice, 1974). Bartlett’s Test of Sphericity is used to determine how much the correlation matrix differs from the identity matrix (Howard, 2016). A p-value less than 0.05 is used to reject the null hypothesis, indicating that variables are sufficiently correlated and that the correlation matrix deviates significantly from the identity matrix (Wat- son, 2017). As shown in Table 4, the value of KMO index (0.815) and the p-value of Bartlett’s Test of Sphericity (0.000) suggest that factor analysis can be performed.
Total variance explained denotes the total variance explained by factors included in a model, that are not due to error variance. For a social science study, Hair et al., (2014) proposed that the total variance explained must yield a percentage of at least 60% and eigenvalues higher than 1. Based on Table 5, the six proposed factors have eigenvalues of 2.178 and explain 67.638% of the variance.
The results of factor analysis are shown in Table 6. To be practically relevant, the factor loading should be greater than 0.50 (Hair et al., 2014). In this step, ECC1 and GLT4 were excluded from their respective construct due to low factor loadings (< 0.55). Measures of construct validity are Average Variance Extracted (AVE) and Composite Reliability (CR) which should be higher than 0.50 and 0.70 respectively.
All factors and their respective items are considered valid and reliable.
The final SEM Model is illustrated in Fig. 2. Purchase intention has a squared mul- tiple correlation (R2) of 0.192 and actual purchase has an R2 of 0.321. Based on our findings, the model explained 19.2% of the variance in second-hand purchase inten-
Table 5 Total Variance Explained
Component Initial Eigenvalues Extraction Sums of
Squared Loadings Rotation Sums of Squared Loadings Total % of
Var Cum % Total % of
Var Cum % Total % of
Var Cum
%
1 5.938 21.208 21.208 5.938 21.208 21.208 4.594 16.409 16.409
2 4.360 15.570 36.779 4.360 15.570 36.779 4.252 15.187 31.596
3 3.261 11.647 48.425 3.261 11.647 48.425 2.746 9.808 41.404
4 2.114 7.550 55.975 2.114 7.550 55.975 2.734 9.764 51.167
5 1.865 6.659 62.634 1.865 6.659 62.634 2.434 8.692 59.860
6 1.401 5.003 67.638 1.401 5.003 67.638 2.178 7.778 67.638
Var = Variance, Cum = Cumulative.
Kaiser-Meyer-Olkin Measure of Sampling Adequacy. 0.815 Bartlett’s Test of Sphericity Approx.
Chi-Square 3451.041
df 378
Sig. 0.000
Approx. Chi-Square = Approximate Chi-square, df = Degree of Freedom, Sig. = Level of Significance.
Table 4 KMO and Bartlett’s Test
tion and 32.1% of the variance in the actual purchase of second-hand clothes. The remaining percentages are explained by factors not included in the current model.
The goal of model-fitting is to determine whether the model is correlated with the measured data (Shi et al., 2019). HED 2, HED 5, GLT 5, and ECC4 were removed during this process to improve model fit. After minor changes, the AVE and CR of HED, GLT, and ECC remain above 0.50 and 0.70, respectively. The results are pre- sented in Table 7 using Schreiber et al.’s (2006) cut-off point guidelines. The model fit process’s output indicated that the model is reasonably well-fitting.
The regression results are presented in Table 8. The regression analysis suggests that most hypotheses are supported except the moderating effect of price conscious- ness that is represented by IntPCSxINT.
Table 6 Rotated Component Matrix
Component AVE C.R.
1 2 3 4 5 6
HED1 0.866 0.736 0.944
HED2 0.891
HED3 0.862
HED4 0.821
HED5 0.868
HED6 0.837
GLT1 0.747 0.523 0.845
GLT2 0.740
GLT3 0.717
GLT5 0.676
GLT6 0.733
ECC2 0.775 0.591 0.910
ECC3 0.765
ECC4 0.732
ECC5 0.745
ECC6 0.745
ECC7 0.773
ECC8 0.840
INT1 0.779 0.569 0.839
INT2 0.645
INT3 0.716
INT4 0.860
PCS1 0.764 0.622 0.832
PCS2 0.808
PCS3 0.794
BHV1 0.867 0.685 0.867
BHV2 0.854
BHV3 0.757
HED = Hedonism, GLT = Guilt, ECC = Ecological Concern, INT = Purchasing Intention, PCS = Price Consciousness, BHV = Actual Purchase, AVE = Average Variance Extracted, C.R. = Composite Reliability.
5 Discussion
This research supports the notion that hedonism has a positive effect on second-hand clothing purchase intention (H1). Based on our findings, Indonesian second-hand
Table 8 Regression Analysis
Estimate S.E. C.R. P
INT <--- HED 0.229 0.064 3.588 ***
INT <--- GLT 0.216 0.057 3.768 ***
INT <--- ECC − 0.159 0.063 -2.510 0.012
BHV <--- INT 1.191 0.178 6.690 ***
BHV <--- IntPCSxINT 0.108 0.078 1.386 0.166
HED = Hedonism, GLT = Guilt, ECC = Ecological Concern, INT = Purchasing Intention, PCS = Price Consciousness, BHV = Actual Purchase, IntPCSxINT = Interaction between Price Consciousness and Actual Purchase.
Fit Index Recommended
Thresholds Results Notes
RMSEA < 0.08 0.042 Satisfac-
tory Fit
SRMR < 0.08 0.050 Satisfac-
tory Fit
GFI > 0.95 0.900 Good Fit
NFI > 0.95 0.884 Accept-
able Fit
IFI > 0.95 0.965 Satisfac-
tory Fit
TLI > 0.95 0.960 Satisfac-
tory Fit
CFI > 0.95 0.965 Satisfac-
tory Fit Table 7 Model Fit
RMSEA = Root Mean Square Error of Approximation, SRMR = Standardized Root Means Square Residual, GFI = Goodness-of-Fit Index, NFI = Normed Fit Index, IFI = Incremental Fit Index, TLI = Tucker–Lewis Index, CFI = Comparative Fit Index.
Fig. 2 Final SEM framework (* = P < .05, *** = P < .001, n.s. = not significant)
clothing customers who have a high hedonic shopping motivation also have a high purchase intention for second-hand clothing. This discovery lends support to the work of Xu et al., (2014) and Liang & Xu (2018).
This research supports the notion that guilt has a positive and significant effect on second-hand clothing purchase intention (H2). Based on our findings, Indonesian customers who feel a strong sense of guilt have a strong desire to buy used cloth- ing. This discovery supports previous research, such as Kim & Johnson (2013) and Cowan & Kinley (2014).
This research partially supports the relationship between ecological concerns and second-hand clothing purchase intentions (H3). Contrary to our expectations, the findings show that ecological concern has a negative relationship with second- hand clothing purchase intention. Perry & Chung (2016) argued that purchasing an eco-friendly product in the first place was not considered eco-friendly because being eco-friendly emphasized the importance of not making frequent purchases. In prac- tice, consumers may not prioritize the ecosystem because individual green initiatives are frequently overshadowed by collective action, resulting in second-hand clothing purchases not resolving many environmental problems. Moreover, scepticism in the form of hygienic concern of second-hand clothing as has been voiced by previous researchers, such as Diddi et al., (2019) and Hur (2020), may also explain the nega- tive relationship.
This research supports the positive relationship between second-hand clothing purchase intention and the actual purchase of second-hand clothing (H4). Based on our findings, second-hand clothing customers in Indonesia who have a high purchase intention for second-hand clothing are also more likely to purchase second-hand clothing. This finding also supports the work of Wei et al., (2017), Jaiswal & Kant (2018), and Rausch & Kopplin (2021).
This research cannot support the moderation effect of price consciousness in the relationship between purchase intention and the actual purchase of second-hand cloth- ing (H5). It follows that whether or not Indonesian consumers are price-conscious is irrelevant in the context of second-hand clothing. We argue that the moderation effect of price consciousness is not significant since second-hand clothing is already associ- ated with low-cost goods (Diddi et al., 2019; Hur, 2020). In other words, Indonesian consumers will not make additional efforts to shop from store to store for specials on clothing that is already low priced.
5.1 Theoretical contributions
This research makes several theoretical contributions: First, by investigating less explored relationships in the context of second-hand clothing, this research extends the literature on sustainable clothing consumption. In explaining second-hand cloth- ing purchases, this research incorporates both environmental and socio-psycholog- ical motives, such as guilt and hedonism. The latter, although counterintuitive, is proven to be a positive predictor of second-hand clothing purchase intention. This raise concerns about whether the purchase of second-hand clothing motivated by hedonism can achieve its noble goal to solve some of the environmental problems.
Second, our findings reveal a negative relationship between ecological concern and
second-hand clothing purchase intention. This suggests that second-hand clothing is not yet viewed as significantly resolving environmental issues in Indonesia, and that people with high ecological concerns are the least interested in purchasing second- hand clothing. Our findings may pave the way for future research, particularly in the context of Indonesia, to understand why people with high ecological concerns may be the least motivated to purchase second-hand clothing as a means of solving envi- ronmental problems. Third, this research fills a knowledge gap regarding sustainable clothing consumption practices in non-Western countries. Lastly, as one of the largest markets for fashion clothing, Indonesian consumers are underrepresented in the lit- erature on second-hand clothing, partly because purchasing second-hand clothing has not yet become common practice. This research fills a population gap in this research area by incorporating second-hand clothing consumers from Indonesia.
5.2 Managerial implications
This research has several managerial implications: First, second-hand clothing retailers can design a playful retail store layout and organize product presentations to create a fun, exciting, and delightful shopping experience. Rather than putting the products in an unorganized clothes rack or displaying them in a pile of clothes, second-hand clothing business practitioners can display them in a clothes rack based on their respective clothing category. Creating a playful retail store layout and orga- nizing how products are displayed may help to make second-hand clothing shopping more appealing and provide a similar shopping experience to shopping for brand-new clothing. Second, to promote second-hand clothing, second-hand clothing retailers may devise a marketing campaign that evokes a sense of guilt while also address- ing their socio-psychological issues. We believe that the purchase of second-hand clothing can be positioned as a responsible consumption that relieves consumer guilt.
Lastly, second-hand clothing retailers can educate their customers on how buying second-hand clothing can help to promote sustainable fashion and reduce environ- mental problems.
6 Conclusions
This research investigates factors influencing second-hand clothing purchases in Indonesia, which is less explored in the literature. Environmental pollutions caused by a consumerist lifestyle and a poor waste disposal system in developing countries, such as Indonesia, highlight the significance of second-hand clothing research. Sev- eral key concepts have been introduced, namely hedonism, guilt, ecological concern, purchase intention, price consciousness and actual purchase. Due to stigma, second- hand clothing purchases are still unpopular among Asian consumers, particularly Indonesians, as they are in Western countries. Second-hand clothing, for example, is still associated with poor and unsanitary clothing. The purchase of second-hand clothing may also be linked to one’s poor financial situation or social status. None- theless, we believe that buying used clothing can help to solve some of the country’s environmental problems. We conclude that hedonism and guilt are positive predic-
tors of second-hand clothing purchase intention. Meanwhile, ecological concern is a negative predictor of second-hand clothing purchase intention. Finally, second-hand clothing purchase intention is a positive predictor of actual second-hand clothing purchase. Our research adds to the body of knowledge on sustainable fashion in the context of Indonesian consumers.
This research contains several limitations: First, complex human behaviour may create a situation in which past behaviour is not always fully capable of explaining future behaviour (Bamberg et al., 2003). For example, people may purposefully exag- gerate favourable behaviour to create a specific impression (Randall & Fernandes, 1991); or choose a socially acceptable answer because the true answer may violate social norms, which is known as social desirability bias (Wheeler et al., 2019). In future research, different approaches to measuring actual purchases may be tried.
For instance, future research can measure actual purchases by contacting respon- dents again after a set period (Chan, 2001). Second, while this research focused on hedonism as the motivation, future research may look into the multidimensionality of shopping motivations, including utilitarian motives. Third, we recognize that dif- ferent cultural values may influence preferences for second-hand clothing. Future research may conduct a cross-cultural study to gain a better understanding of second- hand clothing purchases in the context of Asian consumers. Lastly, because of the relatively small sample size, we are hesitant to generalize our findings; however, they are important for understanding the motivations behind second-hand clothing purchases among Indonesian consumers.
Funding No funding to be reported.
Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial inter- ests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.
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