NOTES ON THE GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF THE PENINSULA OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.
GEORGE
P.MERRIEIL,
Curator, DepartmentofGeology, U. S. XaiioiialMuseum.
969
ReportofU.S.NationalMuseum, 1895.—Merril Plate 1,
o
o
NOTES ON THE GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OE THE PENINSULA OE LOWER CALIEORNIA.
By George P. Merrill,
Curator,Departmentof Geology, U. S. NationalMuseum.
During
tliesummer
of 1892 tliewriterhad
occasion topay
a brief visittothepeninsula ofLower
Cahfornia,goingby
boatfromSan
Diego toSau
Quentin,and
thenceby wagon and pack
train toEIRosarioand
across towithin afewmiles ofthe GulfCoast,the route lying approxi- mately along thelineof thethirtiethparallel.The
tripwas
hurriedlymade
with the scanty equipments furnishedby
a prospector's outfit,and
opi^ortunitiesfordetailedwork
were quitelacking.The
resultant geological observationshave alreadyfound theirway
into print, but a brief abstract from the original publication'may
well be given here.The
excuse forthe presentpaper liesin thefact that the region, aside from being comparativelyunknown
and difficult of access, presentsmany
features of interest from the standpoint of both naturalistand
archaeologist.
Fortunatelythe writer carriedwith
him
a foldingkodak,and
though thegoodwork
doneby
theinstrumentwas
insome
degreeundone by
the carelessnessorignoranceofa professionalphotographerinSan
Diego,enough
remainsto give,with the aid of alittletouching up,the views here shown. In thepages following the remarks onthe physiographyand
geology of the region are (]uoted fromthepaperabove mentioned.The
itineraryiscompiled frommemoranda made
atthetime.(1)
PHYSIOGRAPHY.
"The
peninsula of BajaCaliforniaisanarrow strip of brokenmoun-
tainous laud extending roughly from 22°50' to 32°30' north latitude, about775 miles longand
from 35to 70 miles in width, with ageneral northwestand
sontheasttrendparallel tothe largerorographicfeatures of the Pacific Slope. Its coast outline, characterized asitis atmany
1GeologicalSketchofLowerCalifornia,byS.F.
Emmons
andG.P.Merrill. Bull.GeoLSoc.ofAmerica, V,1894,pp.489-514.
971
972 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895.points
by
xongsweepsor reentering- curves, with outlying islandsand
l)rqjecting- points partly inclosing oval, valley-like basins, is at once suggestive of apartially
submerged
seriesof mountain chains."The
peninsulaisdividedby Gabb
^intothree geographical provinces:
A
southern,extending fromCape
St. Lucas tobeyond La
Paz, char- acterizedby
irregular granite mountain chainsup
to 5,000 feet in height,and with deep valleys containing considerable fertile arable land; an intermediate desert region,characterizedby
table-laudsand
flat-topped ridges, with a considerable extent of interior valleys,and with isolated mountain tops
and
rangesprojecting above the generalmesa
level,which rarelyreach an elevation ofmore
than 3,000 to 4,000 feet. Thisregionhas no running waterand
springs areveryscarce; a high northern portionfrom5,000 to 10,000 feet above sealevelforming a southern continuationofthemountain regionof southernCalifornia, which hasanumber
of running streamsand
large valleys susceptible of cultivation, while the higher portions contain considerable extents of pineforests."The
limits of these three provinces are not sharplydefined,butmay
be takenat aboutI'OOmiles in longitudinalextentforthe northern, 450 milesforthe intermediate desertregion,
and
100 milesforthe southern.""While
from afirstglance at existingmaps
itmight appearthat the depressions of theMohave and
Colorado desertsand
of the Gulfof Californiawerethenormal southern extensionsofthe great depression oftheSan Juan and
Sacramento valleys,and
that thePeninsularangewas
therefore the normal southern continuation of the coast range, there issome
reason to be found in its topographical form,and
stillmore, aswillbeseenlater,initsgeological structure,fortheassumption that the peninsula
more
properly represents the southern extension of the SierraNevada
uplift.On
this assumptiontheconnection between thetwowould
be aflbrdedby
the various enechelon rangesknown
asSan
Jacinto Mountains,San
Bernardino Mountains, etc., lying to the northward,while thesouthern extension of theCoastrange proj^er,cutoff'
by
the reentering angle of the coast between SantaBarbara and
Los Angeles, would be representedby
the chain of islands, Santa Cataliua,San
Clemente, etc., generallyknown
as the Channel Islands, lyingoff' the coastbetweenLos Angelesand San
Diego."To
thesouth ofSan
Diegothemountainscome down
tothe seaand
themesa
disappears, being only representedby
anoccasional patch of laterbeds which have escapederosion,as atSausaland Todos
Santos, GO miles south of the boundary.At Cape
Colnett, in latitude 31°, a stripofmesa
forms theimmediatecoastand
widenssouthward towardSan
Quentin,inlatitude30°30',whichisassumed
tobe aboutthelimit of thenorthern ormountainous province.From San
Quentin south- 'See article on Lower California. J. Ross Browne's Mineral Resources ofthe UnitedStates, 1868,pp.630-639.GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.973
ward, as farasexamined by
the writers, themesa
structure ischarac- teristicof the PacificCoast, thetablelands rising to aheight of 1,000 to 2,000 feet at comparatively short distances from the sea,and
pre- sentingbold bluffsof softhorizontallystratified beds, oftencappedby
lavaflows,whichare evidentlywearingaway
rapidly underthe erosive actionof waves."Lindgren,asaresultofhisobservationsinthevicinityof
Ensenada
deTodos
Santos, divides the topographic features of the peninsula Sierraintothree sections:^(1)
The
coast range, risinggradually from the sea to an elevation of 3,000feetinadistance of 20to30miles.Surmounting
thisarea several minor rangesand
sharp peaksattaining an elevation of 3,000 to 4,000 feet.A
rapid descent leadsfrom the divide of the coastrangeto—
(2)
The
interior valleys, an interrupted seriesof depressions in the middleof thechainat an elevationof 1,800 to 2,000feet.(3)
The
eastern range,risingrapidlyfromthe valleysand
continuing as an almost level plateau, with a gentle slopeup
to the peninsular divideand an
abrupt, almost precipitous, descent to thedesert.The
elevation ofthis remarkableplateauisfrom4,000 to 5,000feet.
"This plateau region, which supports a considerable growthof pine forest, extends, according to the
meager
accounts obtainable, fromtheboundary
southward about to latitude 31°, reaching its culminating point inthehigh mountainmass now known
asSan Pedro
deMartis, which isapparentlythesame
as the snow-cappedmountain
called in the Narragansett report "Oalamahue," or Santa Oatalina (Caterina) Mountain."The
areaexamined by
thepresentwriters,which extends15to30 min- utes northand
south of thethirtiethparalleloflatitude,isseparatedby
a considerablegap
ofunknown
countryfromthat describedby
Lindgren.In thislatitudethe average elevation of the peninsula is about 2,000 feet,
and
that ofitshigher ridgesmay
be taken atlessthan 3,500feet.It is a singularly arid region, having practicallyno running water on the surface
and
very fewpermanent
springs; nevertheless ourexperi- ence hasshown
that properly located wells obtain a fair supplyof water atdepthsof 20 to GO feet.The
climate is remarkably equableand
healthful, being but littlewarmer
thanthat of the coast region of southernCalifornia,and
as a rulemuch
drier.The
diurnal changes of temperature are, however,very great. It is sweptby
continuous breezesfrom either coast,which
appear toblowalternatelyabout three days at a time, those from thePacificbeing laden withmore
orless moisture, while the east winds are extremelydry. LikeCalifornia, ithasa rainy season in thespring, but this is generallybut a few days' duration
and
extremelj^irregularand
uncertain."INoteson theGeologyofBajaCalifornia,Mexico. Proc.Calif.Acad,of Science,
I,1888, p. 170. Idem, II,1889, p. 1. Idem,III, 1890, p.26.
974 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895." Thiswholeregion
may
beiuonesense consideredtobeamesa
region, since at one timethe presentmesa
formation extended from coast to coast, butat the presentday
the mesas are nolonger continuous,and
erosion has disclosed an underlying or buried topography,
whose
genera] featuresshow
considerable analogy with themore
northern region describedby
Lindgren.The mesa
belt proper adjoining the western coast is representedby
aseries of plateausfrom900 to 2,000 feetin elevation, separatedby
the deepcanyon-like valleys of streams that drain the interior.Owing
to the soft, crumbling nature of the beds, theescarpments arevery abrupt,and
thetopography has some- thing of the character of theBad
l^ands of the GreatPlains.<'The coast or western range is represented
by
a series of isolated peaks or ridgesrising 1,000or 2,000feet abovethe generalmesa
level,whichare partlyconnected together
by
flat-topped ridges base-leveleddown
to the average elevation of the highest portion of themesa
region,but whichingeologicalstructure
and
compositionbelongto thesame
system of uplift asthe higher peaks."East
of this range lie the interior valleys, broad, level, or gently sloping plains 10 to 15 miles in Avidthand
with an elevation above sealevel of 1,800 to2,200feet,bounded and
traversedby
mesa-topped ridgesand
with occasional sharp peaks rising out ofthem. These interior valleys all drainto the Pacificthrough gaps in the western rangeand
risegentlyto the eastward, thesame
gentlewestward
slope being noticeableinthemesa-topped ridges."On
the easternedgeofthesevalleys, at a distance ofabout 10to 15 miles from the Gulf Coast, amost
sudden change in topographical structuretakes place.The
broad, level plains, in which thedrainage courses areso shallow thattheir direction of drainageiswith difficulty recognizable, give placeto deep, narrow, tortuous ravines,descending athousand ormore
feetwithina few miles of the mesa-toppeddivide.These ravines
wind
along a series of sharp Jaggedpeaks, which evi- dently are the projectingsummits
of an olderand
partially buried mountain chain.The
easternrange isrepresented inpartby
the sum- mits of this buried range, in partby
aseries of isolated table-topped mountains rising toanelevation of 3,500feet,whichbringsthem
above the summits of mostof the sharper peaksto the eastward.On
the immediate Gulf Coast is a gently sloping mesa, of varying width, at thebaseof the eastern range.To
the south of the regionvisited, the buried mountains rise stillhigher than these tabletopped mountainsand
send out spurs to the westward, which apparently cut off the interior valley in thatdirection.To
the north theydo
not riseabove the levelof the interior valley,and the mesa-topped ridgessweep
over them, descendingin aseriesof terraces or steps to theGulf Coast."The
rocks, of whicli thiseasternburied rangeiscomposed,outcrop so frequentlyin tlie bottom of the interior valley that it is probable thatthis valley rests inpartupon
aplateau-likeshoulder of the buriedGEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.075
range,
and
that its formwas
not unlike that of the granite plateau describedby
Lindgrenin thelatitude of Ensenada."From
Gabb's descriptionitwould
appearthat a similar topograph- ical structure obtains forthe part of the peninsula stretching south from latitude29°toLa
Paz.The
easternrange hasforthemost
part a mesa-toppedcrest,broken hereand
thereby
projectingridges, which stretch in part across the peninsulaand
separate the interior valleys.The
interior valleys, setoft" successivelyalittlemore
to thesouthwardand
Avestward,become more
extensive southward, one being described as stretching fromLa
Purissima toTodos
Santos (ofthe south), adis- tance of 150 to 200 miles, with an average width of 10 miles. The.western range is aiDparently still
more
indistinct as a topographical featureand
is notrecognizedby
him, but the westernmesa
region isspokenof as stretchingin varyingwidth from
Magdalena
Bay,in lati-tude240 30',to
Cape
Colnett,in latitude 31°."(2)
GEOLOGY.
"For
purposesof geological description the regionexamined maybe
dividedinto the coast or
mesa
belt,thewesternrange, theinteriorval- ley,and
the eastern range.The
immediate Gulf Coastwas
notvisited."On
Plate1^ is given a generalized section acrossthe peninsula along the lineA-B.
Topographicalfeatures atsome
distance fromthisline arebrought in to illustratethe general structure..Though
notdrawn
to scale, carehasbeen taken to
make
the section as close an approxi- mation to nature as the datawould
admit. Distanceswere
estimated in travelingtoand
froand
checkedby
roughtriangulationsmade
with a prismatic compass.The
vertical scale is intendedto be aboutfour times largerthan thehorizontal.COAST OR MESA
BELT."This areahasan average widthof10 to 15 miles,
and
init, so faras observed, no olderrocks occur thanhorizontallybedded,looselyaggre- gated clayey sands, sandstones,and
conglomerates, ofwhich
the lowest horizons carry characteristic forms of the ChicoCretaceous. In a higher horizon ofthis apparentlyconformable series a characteristic faunaofthe Tejon-Eocene has been found,and
in still higher beds a few formsofprobableMiocene age wereobserved.None
of these bedsshow
evidence ofany
considerable disturbance, though in a few instancesdips of 10to15 degreesand
slightdisplacementswith athrow ofonly afewfeethave
beenobserved.They
have,however, beenexten- sivelyeroded,and
laterdeposits of post-Plioceneand
possibly also of Pliocene age have been depositedupon
theireroded surface. Recent eruptive rocks, both acidand
basic,have
cut throughthem and
in placeshave
been important factors in shapingtopographical formsby
protectingthe softer beds fromerosion.'FromBull. Geol. Soc.ofAm., V, 1894.
976 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895."The
oest exposures of the lower beds were found betweenCanoas and
Bluff points [Plate 1,] where they present perpendicular bluffs, facing the sea, from a fewhundred up
to nearly a thousand feet in height. These are being rapidly underminedand
eatenback by
the action ofthe waves,so thatbetweenthe two points the coast lineforms abow-like reentering curve, set back 3to 5 miles from a linedrawn
between the points.From
either point the land lises in a series ofsteps or broken terraces to an extensive plateau, cut onthe seafaces
by
short, narrow, branchingravinesaud
presentingin general contin- uousbluff faces inland."Midway
inthe reenteringcurve betweenCanoas and
Bluff pointsisthePlaya SantaCaterina,whereis agapa mileortwoin widthbetween the bluffsborderingthe ocean, formed
by
a broadvalley inwhich are twomodern
streambedsdraining theinteriorregion.They
aredivided atthe shorelineby
a flat-topped ridge of Chico beds, near the top of which istheremnant
of an ancient streambed whose
bottomisnow
about100 feet abovetide water,and
which is filledby
aconglomerate of largebowlders aud water-wornpebbles of massiverocks. Thiscon- glomerate,whichis cementedby
limeand
iron, is somuch more
resist- ingthan thesoft clays of the Chico formation thatthehuge
bowlders that fallas the cliff is underminedby wave
action form a pointpro- jecting outseveralhundred feetbeyond
the averagecoast line. These conglomerates areprobably of thesame
age asthosewhich arefound at various points in the canyons of the interior,and
their formation evidentlydatesback to a timewhen, afterthe carving out of the gen- eral system ofmodern
drainage, the waters of the ocean reached a higherlevel than the present,and
the olddrainage channels werepar- tiallyfilledup
tothe then base level. Subsequenterosion, whilecut- tingdown
toasomewhat
lower leveland
following thesame
generallines,has often eaten
more
readily into the softer beds atthe sides of these recent conglomeratesand
left patches ofthem
still standing, which sometimesform onewall of thecanyon ahundred
ormore
feetaboveitspresent bottom.
"The modern
stream beds from Playa Santa Caterina are almostat base level forsome
10 miles inland, at about which distance eruptive rocksappear from underthe Cretaceousand
recent beds,and
thenrise rapidly,reachinganelevation ofabout1,500 feetwithin 15 miles of the coast, onthepartly buried slopes of the coast range."Both
inthebroadvalleyand
onthemesa
slopesarerelicsofterraces whichevidence a successiverising oftheland above the ocean."The
lower beds exposedin the bluffsalong the coasthave a gentle inclination northwardand
southward from Sandstone Point, about3 miles north ofPlaya SantaCaterina, where massivesandstones form a slightly projecting headland. In these sandstones carbonized plant remains,too indefinitefor identification,werefound,and
inthe cracks of theimmediatelyoverlyingsandyclaysweretracesof petroleum.From
GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.977
these beds
and
from calcareous layers about 200 feet abovewere
obtained the following forms,as determinedby
T.W.
Stanton:
Areabreweriana,Gabb. Inoceramus,sp.undetermined.
Baculiteschicoensis, Trask, Ammonites, sp.undetermined.
Tessarolaxdistorta,Gabb. Ostrea, sp.undetermined.
"
They
correspond withforms found in the Chico bedsof Californiaand
Oregon."
From
rolled pebbles of impurelimestone obtained alongthebeach tothe south of the Playa,whichhad
evidently fallen from the cliffsabove,
and
from abed
of similar composition in place atwhat was assumed
to beabout 1,200 feethigherinhorizon, atSan
Carlos anchor- age (collectedby
A. D. Foote), 8 miles north of Bluff Point, the followingformswereidentifiedby
T.W.
Stanton:Cardita planicostata,Lam. Tellina, sp. undetermined.
Ledagnbbi,Conrad. Turritella, sp. undetermined.
Urosycacaudata,Gabb. Dentalium,sp.undetermined.
Nucula,sp.undetermined. Crassatella,sp.undetermined.
and
areconsideredby him
tobelong undoubtedlyto the Tejon Eocene."The
bedscarryingChicoand
Tejon fossils were not observed in direct superposition, but from the negative evidence thatno decided unconformities were detected atany
of the points examined, it isassumed
that the two series are conformable,or that inany
case no considerabledisturbance of the stratatookplace betweenthe times of theirrespective depositions."The
greatmesa
or plateau,15 mileslongand
6 to8 milesin width, which extends from the valley of Santa Caterina northwardbeyond San
Carlos, has an elevation of from 1,800 to 2,000 feet, being some-what
higher ^t the northern end.The
greater part ofits surfaceisapparently capped
by
basalt flows, which have protected it from erosion.From
a distancecan be distinguished conical points rising abovetlielevelofthemesa,known
asthe "Sombrero,"the"Hat,"etc.,which resemble recent craters in general form.
At
one point onthe coast,fragmentsof thebasalt,cemented togetherby
crystalline calcite, havefallentothefootof thebluff inhuge
massesand
forma projecting pointonthe coastline."For
abouta milebeyond
Sandstone Pointthebeachiscoveredwith beautifullyrounded pebbles of porphyriesand
a great variety of hard rocks,mostlyolder eruptive,whose
materialmust have come down
a ravine which drains the western face of the plateauand
descends veryrapidlyfrom its summit.As
no such j^ebbleswere observed in the Chico or Tejon series, nor on the beaches to the southwhere
no upper beds remain, itisthought probable that themesa
sandstones, which are characterizedby
an abundance of eruptive material,may
formtheupperportion of thisplateau.
"Northward
fromSan
Carlos, as seen from the ocean orfrom com-manding
points of view in the interior,thesame
character of beds,NAT MUS
95 62978 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895.with their cliaracteristic bad-land topography, extend northward to the Rosario Raviue.
"The
hamletof Rosariois situated a fewmilesfrom the sea,in this ravine or canyon, which extends inland forsome
10 or15 miles with very gradual rise of its beds,and
carries a small stream of running water that in dry seasons sinks belowthe surface sands. [Plate 2.]"The
cliffsof thecanyon walls areeroded into castellatedforms that recall the buttes atGreen
River,Wyoming,
familiar to travelers on theUnion
PacificRailroad. OppositeRosario thebeddingplaneshave a dip of 15 degreesto the northeastward, while the surface of themesa
is quite horizontal,
and
from the pebblesand
recent shells on itssur- faceevidently represents a higherlevelof theoceanwaters,which have base-leveled it at about 1,000 feetabove present sealevel. For a few miles north of themouth
of the RosarioCanyon
the bluffscome
close tothe present coastlineand
then graduallyretreat, untiloppositeSan
Quentiu they are about8 milesinland.The
immediate shoreisfirsta terrace about 200 feet above the sea level, then at themouth
ofthe Socorro Valley a triangular-shaped Quaternary delta hardly 50 feetabove sea level, covered withrolled pebbles
and
recent marineshells.The
older beds forming themesa
region in this latitude,though
not markedlydifferentfromthosebetweenBluff'and Canoas
points, contain a larger proportion of conglomeratematerialand
several fossiliferous beds of recent looking shells,among which
were recognized Mytilus californianusand
a fragment of Pecten, like P. cerrosensis, which Dr.W.
H.Dall regards as indicating a probable Miocene age. These are thebedsseenby Gabb
onhistripand
calledby him "mesa
sandstones."No
evidence of unconformity between theseand
the Tejon bedswas
observed,and
it seems probablethattheymay
constitute the highest part of themesa
at Bluff' Point, butthiswas
not determinedby
fossil evidence."Northward
from Socorro River the bluffs of themesa
formationretreat graduallyfrom the ocean,
and
atSan
Quentin are separated from itbythe
sandyplains of Santa Maria, about 8 miles wideand
but a fewfeet above sealevel, which are the northern continuation of the depressions of thebay
ofSan
Quentin.The
immediate coastline atSan
Quentin isformedby
agroup ofsix conical hillsofbasalt,from 400to 800feet higTi,which,judging from theuneroded character of the lavaflowswhich haveissuedfrom theirflanks,must
beof veryrecent eruption.One
of theseflowsextending southward about7milesforms thelow,narrow tongue oflandknown
asCape
San Quentin. Itisevi- dently the superior resistance of these hard lavas that has thus far protected the plainsof Santa Maria fromtheencroachmentsof the sea.WESTERN RANGE.
" In the presenttopographythewestern rangeisveryilldefined,
and
consists of a
number
of irregularridgesand
isolated mountain masses 15to20 milesfromthecoast,the highestsummits
ofwhichareprobablyReportofU.S.NationalMuseum,1895.—Merrill. Plate2.
i»,
fv
Ill
'
ReportofU.S. NationalMuseum,1895.—Merrill. Plate 3.
I -o
GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.979
less than 4,000 feet above sea level.
Between
the peaks are broad, transverse valleysand
flat-topped ridgeswhose
highersummits have
thesame
general levelwithtlioseof the higher plateaus of themesa
region—
that is, about 2,000feet.Eounded
pebblesand
an occasionalfragment of recent shells were found on these summits, which strengthen the opinion that this
was
a peneplain of recent times, probably formed at the time of the greatest submergence since the deposition of themesa
sandstones."
The
rangewas
traversed ontwo
lines—
that of the arroyo of Santa Caterina,shown
in thesection [Plate1],and
that of the Rosario arroyo.The
river bed or arroyo ofSan Fernando
crosses it aboutmidway
between thesetwo.Near
the mission ofSan Fernando
is aconsider- able development of sedimentary beds, oneofwhich is amuch
altered bluish limestone containing unrecognizable fossils, which is probably either of earlyMesozoic or Paleozoicage. [Plate 3.JThe
bedshave a steep dip totheeastward; atone point are overturned againstacon- siderablebody
ofacideruptivesand
diorite.On
thelineofthe Rosario arroyo it consists mainly of diabase, with acid eruptivesand
diorites on theireastern flank.The
latter cut the diabases,and
are succeeded on the eastby
an extensive flow ofrhyolite capping themesa
ridges which extendout into the interior valley.A
little farther south dio- ritesseem
toform themain mass
of theflattoppedridges whichhere representthe range,and which
areflanked on the east, atthe border of themesa
region, l>yrecent tufaceousrocks, in which isfound oneof the few springs of the region.Along
the lineof the section south ofSan
Fernando, diorites again predominate,and
in these occur deposits ofcoppersulphides, oneofwhich has beenquite extensively mined."It
was
notpossible todeterminetherelativeageof allthevarieties of eruptive rock observed,but the older eruptives are evidentlypre- Cbico,whilesome
oftherecent eruptives are certainlymore
recentthan themesa
sandstones."
The
rocks describedabove as acideruptives are comjiactand
some- times brecciated quartz-porphyries of greenishand
brownish colors,at times quiteaphanitic,and
againshowing smallphenocrystsof feldsparand more
rarely quartz, suflQcientlydeveloped toberecognizableby
thenaked
eye. Chemical tests in themore
aphanitic varieties yield 70 to 75 per centsilica.The more common
form of the diorite is a pinkish gray,finelygranularrock,whichinthinsectionshows
ahypidiomorphic granular aggregate of quartzand
triclinic feldspar with pale green hornblendes,in jjartorwhollyaltered to epidote. Thereare alsoafew sphenesand
the usual ironores."Inthe upper SantaCaterina Valley,whichcrosses the range diag- onally ina nearly north-and-south direction, avery considerable
mass
of underlyinggranitic rock is exposedoveran extent ofabout 10miles along thebottom of thevalley, whichapparentlygrades intothe finer- grained diorites surroundingit.Along
the center of the valleya low ridge of roundedblocks of this verymassive rock hasthe appearance980 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895.atfirstglance of a morainalridge with liuge erratics, but examination shows that the rounded forms are merely the results of weathering under the peculiar climatic conditionsot the region.
The
granite isan even-grained granularrock, thicklystudded with smallblackscales of mica
and
small hornblendes. In thin section it shows a hypidio- morphic granular aggregation of quartz, feldspars, black mica,and
deep green hornblende, with a sprinkling of iron ores, apatite,and
rarely zircons. Itresembles the granites of the SierraNevada.
"Westward
along thelineof thesection thisgraniteissucceededby
the finergrained quartz mica-diorite described above,and
thenby
a belt severalmilesinwidth of recenteruptives, which form low roundedhillsadjoing the
mesa
region. These appearedto be mostlyrhyolites,and
to have cutthrough the sedimeutaries of themesa
region, thoughit
was
notpossibleto obtain unquestionable evidenceof thelatterfact."On
theeast, or at thehead of the Santa Caterina Valley, capping the flat ridges which form the western divide of the interior valleys,was
found a rather remarkable rock of the hypersthene-audesite type, showingmicroscopically small olivinesand
whitefeldspars, withocca- sional black hornblendes in a dark gray matrix. In tliin section itshows adecidedandesiticground
mass
of augiteand plagioclase micro-lites, with the usual iron ores
and abundant
colorless olivines, pale hypersthenes, small pale green augites,and an
occasionaldarkbasaltic hornblende with black border."Abundant
chalcedonyand
flintconcretions,withdendriticmarkings, constituting the popularlyknown moss
agates,arefound on the eastern slopesofthese ridges.INTERIOR VALLEY.
"
The
interiorvalleywhichwas
visitedby
the writersisprobablythat designatedby Gabb
as the plain ofBuena
Vista. In about latitude 30^,oralittle north of the lineofthe section,its width on a northeast- southwestline, or atright anglesto thetrend of the peninsula, is over 15 miles,an almostlevelplainwith a slightrisetoward itseasternrim, which rests onthesubmerged
flanksand
crests of the eastern range.Itselevation varies from about 2,000 feeton the western to2,300 feet onthe eastern edge.
To
thesouthwardits width iscontractedby
the encroachments of the bounding ranges which send out spursorridges intoit, and in the far distance appear tomerge
together.The
spurs from the eastern range are flat-topped in great partand composed
of horizontally-bedded material, which,
where
examined, consisted largely of volcanic ash carryingabundant
fragments of basic erup- tives. These are evidently themesa
sandstones of Gabb. Those from the western range, on the other hand, arecomposed
largely of eruptive rocksand
appeartobeprojecting portions of the oldermoun-
tains laid bare by erosion,but in afew casesare mesa-toppedridges, capped
by
horizontallavaflowsoflaterage than themesa
sandstones.ReportofU.S.NationalMuseum, 1895.—Merrill. Plate4.
GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.981
"
To
thenorth the valleyappears togrow
wider,and
out of its midstriseafewconical peaks, the most prominent of which,
known
asSan Juan
de Dios [Plate4],about 20 milesnorth of the line of the section, has a remarkably graceful outlineand
a probable elevation of over 4,000feet. Itiscomposed,in greatmeasure,of eruptiverocks,among
which felsite,diabase, liparite,and
basalt were recognized, while ero- sionhasdisclosed on oneside an underlying coarse quartzite.At
itsbase isoneof therare springsofthe region. Similarpeaksare seen to rise out of the plain far tothenorthward atprobable distances of 10 to15 miles apart.
"
The
slopeofthebroad stream beds in thelowerpart of the valleyis soimperceptible that the directionof its drainage is difficultto deter- mine; but aneroid observations indicate that the portionexamined
isdrained through the
gap
in the western rangeatthe ruined mission of SailFernando
(elevation about1,800 feet),and
thence probablyby
theSan Fernando
Riverbed
to the Pacific Ocean. Limited portions of the eastern edgeto the north of the line section are drainedby
deepand
narrowarroyos ofmore
recent formation into the Gulf of Cali- fornia.The
present bottoms of the valleys are occui)iedby
recent deposits of porous limestone or travertineand
coarse conglomerate with calcareouscementcontainingrounded fragments ofboth eruptiveand
sedimeutaryrocksin great varietyand
varying sizeup
to several ieetin diameter.The
evidence of wells which get waterin the lower parts of the valley at 40 to 60 feet below the surfaceand
of adjoining mesasin thevalley,which afford partial sections,show
apresentthick- ness oflittleover 100feetofthesebeds; buttheir elevationin shallow raviues—
notably theone on the southeastern edge of theBuena
Vista plain,in which are theNew
Pedraraonyx
deposits,and
remnantsof calcareous conglomerates remaining on the flanks of thebounding
ridges at other points—
indicate that the original thickness of these depositsmay have
beenseveralhundred
feet,and
thatthe greater part hasalreadybeenremoved by
erosion.No
fossilevidencewas
obtained as to theirabsolute geological age, but the characterand
iiosition of the deposits indicate that they were laiddown
in an inclosedbody
of water, probably an interior lake of comparatively recent date.What
remainsof thesebedsbarely servesto smooth over theinequali- ties of the underlyingmountains,whose component
rock massesoften outcrop across thestream beds, especiallyalong the eastern portion of the valley.Even where
there is no actual outcrop the ajipearance of frequent fragments of granite or sedimentary rocks, as the casemay
be, indicatethat these rocks areto be found in place near
by and
not far fromthe surface. Insome
cases theground
is whitened overcon- siderableareasby
theabundant
smallfragmentsofvein quartz,result- ingfromtlie disintegrationof theunderlying slates.<'
The
relativeageof the interior lakebedsmay
beassumed
to bearsome
relation to that of the calcareousconglomeratealreadymentioned982 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895.which partiallyfilled the earlier canyons of the Pacific Slope. After thedeposition
and
subsequentelevationof themesa
sandstones, which areassumed tobe of late Tertiaryage, theremust have
been a long period of erosion, during whichthe interior valleywas
carved outand
drained through the deeper canyons running to the Pacific Ocean.This
was
apparently followedby
an extensive submergence of 2,000 feetormore, since wliich time the whole peninsula has been gradually risingby
periodic movements, with considerable base leveling in the intervals."
The
present elevation of the mesa-topped ridges of the western rangeindicates abase leveliug of the region at an elevation of about 2,000 feet above present sealevel. Thismight have
filledup
all the outlets of theinterior region across the western rangeand
admitted of theinclosures of abody
of waterup
to that level; but to accountfor the present position of the deposits on the eastern side of the valley, it is necessaryto
assume
a subsequent dift'erentialmovement by
which thatside has beenraised afewhundred
feetmore
than theeasternside."
EASTERN RANGE.
"
The
older orburied eastern rangeismade up
of graniteand
gneiss, with highly altered sedimentary strata flanking it on the northeast, which stand either vertical orwith a steep dip to the eastwardand
strike about northwest, or
somewhat more
to the west of north than the general trend of the peninsula.The
present divide, on the other hand, follows the general trend of the coastline at a distance of 10to 15 milesfrom it,and ismarked
in generalby
abrupt escarpments along the eastern edgeof thedesertplain."To
the north of the limits of the field of observation,beyond
the thirtieth parallel, the summits of the older range have been plannedoff
and
theirdepressions soevenlyfilledupby
themore
recent deposits that they playno part in the present topographyof the country.To
the south, however, where, east of the present divide, theyhave beendenuded
of themore
recent deposits, orstill farther south, where they were nevercompletelycoveredby
these deposits, theyform conspicu- ousand
striking topographical features, inmarked
contrastwith the prevailing horizontal linesand
broad shallow valleys of the western portion of the peninsula." In the northern region the desertplains
and
flat-topped ridges ofmesa
sandstones risevery gentlyfromthewest tothe divide line,which almost invariably presents an abrupt escarpment to the east, over- looking a region deeply scoredby
narrow gorges severalhundred
feet indepth,with almostverticalwalls.Here
the divideline ismarked by
occasionalisolated tabletopped buttes, cappedby
rhyolite, which rise 500 to1,000feet abovethe desert leveland
servetomark
theoriginal levelof themesa
sandstones, which have been protected fromerosionby
the cap ofmore
enduring rock. These rhyolites are generallyofGEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.983
earlier date than the lake beds.
The
top of themesa
saudstones as thusdetermined is about3,000 feet abovepreseut sea level,and
theirmaximum
observed thickness 800 feet. Augiteandesite flows, appar- entlyofmore
recentdate, are found capping intermediate portions of thedivide.The
contrastintopographical structurebetweentheregion eastand
westof the divide is here lessmarked
than in the region to the south, as on both sides approximately horizontal lines prevail.The
surface of the mesa-topped ridges slopesupward
toward it from either direction, but the slopeismuch
greateron the eastern sideand
the ridges descend toward the gulf in a series of step-like terraces, while the wholeeasternregion isdeeply scoredby
narrow, steep sided ravinesfromafewhundred
toathousand feetindepth.The
upturned bedsof themetamorphic
seriesarewellexposed alongthe walls of these ravines, often reaching the surface of the intervening mesas.They
arealso seen in the shallow stream beds of the desert plains on the west, and, asalreadyremarked,oftenoutcropthroughthe thincovering of thelakebeds for aconsiderable distanceout on tothe desert.
"South
of thethirtiethparallelthesummits
oftheburiedrangerise gradually,and
east of the divide are completelydenuded
ofany
cov- ering of recentbeds that theymay have
had.They
also spreadoutto the eastward,approachingmore and more
closely to the gulfcoast,and
south of the limits of theiieldof observation, or20 miles south of the thirtiethparallel, theyconstitute a high graniterange extending 10 or 15 mileswestward
into the interior valleyand
effectually cutting oftany
viewof thecountrybeyond."The
regionin thevicinityof theNew
Pedraraonyx
deposits, afew miles south of the thirtieth parallel,shows
well the general structure of the eastern range aspresented in generalizedform in the sectionon plate1,and
will hence bedescribed insome
detail."The
principalonyx
deposits are situated in a shallow ravine or easternarm
of the interior valley, betweentwo
ridges ofmesa
sand- stone, at anelevation ofabout2,300feet. Since thedenudationof the granitebedofthisravine ofitsformer covering ofmesa
sandstoneithas beenfilledto adepth of about 100feetby
alternate beds of travertineand
calcareous conglomerate,which
were probably contemporaneousand
atonetimecontinuous with the lakebeds of theinterior valley."The
windingbed
of themodern
stream cuts into the travertine deposit, exposingatoneplace a cliffof over20feetin height,showing
threedistinctlayersof "Mexican
onyx,"oneofwhichisover3feetthick, interstratifiedwith thetravertine, whilefora distance of nearly a miledown
the ravine sheetsof themore
resistingonyx
capthelittletraver- tinemesas
on eitherside.The
occurrence of the onyx,whichisather-mal
springand
surface depositinsuccessivelayers,separatedby
traver- tineand
restingonconglomerate, indicates a probable successive riseand
fallof thewatersof the lakewhere
the travertinewas
deposited, whichwould have
admitted ofsome
slight erosion of the deposit in984 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895.the periods
when
the lake watershad
temporarilyretreated—a hypoth- esis thatwas
confirmedby
the finding ofsome
fragments ofonyx
in the uppertravertine beds."At
theheadof the ravine the travertine beds end abruptlyinan
escarpment,beyond
which one descends rapidly 500feetthrough wind- ing ravines, between sharp, jagged ridgesof ametamorplnc
rock, to thebedoftheTulearroyo,a winding,yshaped
gorge which runsnorth-ward
about 10 miles, then northeastward to the Gulf of California, draining thewholeregion east of the divide.At
onepointthis gorge widens out into quiteavalley, in which are travertine depositsabout 50feet in thickness, with layers ofonyx
inthe upper part. Relicsof thethermal action arefound atthe presentday
in alittleeftervescent spring,known
as the Yolcan, which issues from the top of a dome- shapedmound
of calcareous tufa in thenarrow bottom
of the ravine before it opens out into the valley containing the travertinedeposits.[See Plate5.]
"Thesetravertine deposits are entirely isolated
and have
nopresent connectionwith those of the interiorvalleyto the east of thedivide, their levelbeing about400feetlowerthanthedivide,where
the nearest lake-bed deposits end.The
similarityof theircomposition,theirrela- tions to the underlying rocks, totheonyx
formation,and
tomodern
erosion,all suggest, however,a
common
originwith the lake beds,and
if once connected with
them
theremust have
been adiflferential move-ment
since their depositionwhich
produced the present differenceof level."Beyond
the Tule arroyo to the eastward arise a series of sharp, jagged peaks which attain amaximum
elevation of about 3,000 feet, deeply scoredby
a most intricate system of deep, winding ravines, quiteimpassable exceptto foot travelers,and
which arein most strik- ing topographical contrast tothelevel valleysand
plainsof the region west of the divide.Within
these hills at various points are placers from which the Mexicansobtain considerable coarse goldby
dry wash- ing during themonths
immediately following the spring rains.At
otherseasons thereis not
enough
watertosupportlife.They
arecom- posed of distinctly stratified sedimentarybeds standing on edgeand
striking northwest
and
southeast,butwhich
are so highly metamor- phosedand
soblackenedand
splinteredby
the weatheringof thisarid regionthattheir originalcharactercanno longerbedetermined.They
are mostlydark siliceous slates
and
fine-grained mica-schists.Some
beds have all the external appearanceof limestonesin their granular structureand
thin white veins,but their present compositionshows
no trace of limeand
is almost entirelysiliceous.They
are traversedby
well-defined dikes,whicharealsointenselyaltered."Among
themore
strikingrocks in this metamorphic series, at the northern limits of the area observed,was
a fine-grained hornblende rockwhichmicroscopicexamination showstobeproperlyan
altereddie-ReportofU.S.NationalMuseum, 1895.—Merrill Plate 5.
The Tule Arroyo,with recent Deposits of Calc Tufa.
GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.985
rite.
The ground mass
consistsofan aggregateofplagioclasefeldspar, apparently auorthite, with fibrous hornblende containing inclusions suggestive of interpolations of hyperstheneand
diallage. Associated with thiswas
a grayish massiverock thicklystudded with short, stout crystals of black hornblende2 to5 millimeters in diameterand
5 to 8 millimeters in length. Microscopical examinationsshow
the groundmass
to bea granularaggregate of almostcolorless augites with afew plagioclase feldspars,and
the rockapparentlybelongs to thegroup of hornblende-pyroxenites of Williams.When
collected, theserockswere supposed to be interstratified with the metamorphic series, astheir outcropshad
thesame
general strike; the result of microscopical examination indicates thatthey are probably altered intrusive sheets."The
flat-topped ridge ofmesa
sandstones south of the ravine in whichtheprincipalNew
Pedraraonyx
deposits occur isthicklystrewn with subangular blocks of augite-andesite,which
have apparently weathered out as the soft ash of which the beds arecomposed
hasworn
away.At
the eastern extremity of thisridge, on thevery crest of the divide, isahigh basalt-capped mesa, nearly a milein diameter calledby
us Bhifl'Point. It has an elevation of about 3,500 feet,and
overtopsall thehighestsummits
within a radiusof15 to 20miles, thus offeringan admirablepoint of view from whichto studythe physical structure of theregion.The
basaltcap has an aggregatethickness of 500 feet,and
consists of an upj)er layer of dark vesicular olivine- bearing rock 350 feet in thickness resting on 150 feet of gray, fine-grainedrock containing
abundant
largecrystals ofolivine.The
upper layerhasadarksmoky
glassbase withtheusualmicrolites of feldsparand
augiteand
small phenocrysts of augite, olivine,and
feldspar.Between
these flows a zoneof decomposition several feet in thickness, coloredbrilliant redby
peroxidation of the iron,makes
a prominentline,visiblefroma greatdistance, on theblufffaceswhich almostcom- pletely surroundthemesa.
"The
surface ofthemesa
hasa gentleslopewestward and
endstothe eastwardin an almostperpendicular escarpment overlooking theTule arroyo 1,500 feet below,which
has here widened out intoaconsider- ablevalley that drains thenorthern slopes of theWhite
range farto the south.Beyond
thisvalley, i^artlycuttingoff'theview of the Gulf of California, lies the group of darkrugged
peaks of metamori)hic slates called the VolcanPeak
group,which the Tule arroyo almost completelyencircles in its circuitous course tothesea.Through
the gaps in this range can be distinguished the pale blue waters of the Gulf of Californiaand
occasionally portions of the coastline, as well as several of the group of small islands which liea fewmiles off' the shore in this latitude,and whose
abrupt outlinesshow them
to be probablyj^rojecting points of the buriedmetamorphicranges."The arms
oftheinterior valley, which lie tothe southand
westof the BluffPoint mesa,have
afloorof granitewhich
isentirelydenuded
986 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM,
1895.of the
mesa
sandstone coveringand
of the lake beds, ifthelatterever coveredit.The
granite is alightgrayrock of normaltype,consisting oftwofeldspars, quartz,and
bothwhiteand brown
mica.Hornblende was
not observed.From
general appearanceand
association itwould
appearto beadistinctand
older rock than that found inthe western range.To
the south of these valleys theWhite
range,composed
of thesame
granite, stretchessome
10 or 15 miles eastand
westacrossthe peninsula,and
apparently cutsoff in greatmeasurethe interiorvalley in this direction.As
no contacts were found, itwas
impossible to determine therelative ageof the graniteand
themetamorphic
series."ITINERARY.
The
party leftSan
Quentin for El Eosario,some
40 miles to the south,lateon the afternoon of July19, our conveyanceconsisting of a"dead
ex"wagon drawn by
a pairof mules.That
nightwe
succeededin
making
but about 7 to 9 miles, nearly theentiredistancebeingover level sand plains, either quitebareor covered with cacti,sagebrush,and
in placeswith dense growthsof strong-smellingshrubswith small harsh leavesand
thornybranches.We encamped
thatnight,asindeed every night, inthe open air,and
wereon
the road againby
6 o'clock the morning following.For
nearly 10 miles the route layalong the hard sandsof a beautiful beach facing theopen
Pacific.Thousands upon
thousandsof dark-colored sea fowl flew backand
forth in long undulatinglines,while smallflocksofgulls,curlews,and
an occasional brace of strong-flying pelicans enlivened themonotony
of the trip.The
sands werebeautifully hard, clean,and
white, with comparatively few shells or other indicationsof marine life.The
disk-like shellsof echinoderms, an occasional giant clam,and more
rarely yet a few abaloneswerethe mostconspicuous forms.But
this part of the tripwas
onlytoosoon atan end,and
leaving the beachwe
turnedinland, journeyingfortherestof theday
over a nearlylevel i)lain with highmesa
sandsto theeast. Inthe distance fromSan
Quentinto ElRosa- riofreshwaterwas
found buttwice,and
though insome
cases the soilwas
good the lack of moisture leaves thecountry essentiallya desert.This indeed is the condition of affairs throughout the entire region traversed, excepting where along the few streams a crude form of irrigation
by
the native Mexicans was carried on.Along
the beach abovealludedto thesoilswerelightand
sandyand
boreno vegetation of suflicient sizeorproperfoliageforcasting a shade.Such
plants as existed consisted mainly of cactiand
small, nearly leafless, thorny shrubs. Earely the pole-like form of a giant cactus or an agave appeared in the distance, butmuch more abundant
were elongated, serpent-like forms,3or4 inches indiameterand
of alllengthsup
to10 ormore
feet, growingsinglyor in clusters.A
miserable variety of sage brush, with its half dead, half living,scrawnybranches,
was
everywhere, whilean occasionalsmall,tubular-GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF LOWER
CALIFORNIA.987
shaped,very pretty pink flower
showed up
ia strong contrast with the general dreariness of the land.An
"ice plant," an insignificant littlething growing close to the soil, of a greenand
wine red color, coveredallover with jelly-likedrops or tubercles,added
also a slightamount
ofattractiveness,or at least gaveinterest tothe scene. Small lizards darted about,and an
occasional quail,jackor cotton-tail rabbit, afew butterflies,a large species ofichneumon
fly,afew grasshoppers (some species of CEdipoda),and
a black yellow-spotted spiderwhich builds strongwebs
on the shrnbs,were
about all thatwas
visible in theway
of animaland
insect life, thoughin the soil, at thefootof the shrubs, I found occasionalempty
spiral shellsof a land mollusk, the Helix stearnsiana ofGabb.
After leavingSan
Quentin nothing what- ever in theway
of reptile lifewas
seen, although immediately aboutSan
Quentin a speciesof rattlesnakewas
said to be quite abundant.Beyond
Rosario, with the exception of quailand
mountain sheepand
antelopewellover tothe east coast,no forms whateverofwildanimals were observed,and
even thenumerous
burrows of small nocturnalmammals,
soabundant
toward the north,were almostentirely lacking.About dusk we
reached the dividewhich marks
the limitof the desert here,and went
rattlingdown
the steep sandyslopestoward El Eosario missionand
the sluggishshallow stream of thesame
name, butdigni- fied in this country of arid wastesby
thename
of river.We
reached the bottomjust about that hourwhen
it istoo dark to see anything distinctly, to find a flatvalley, perhapsa mile in width, hedged inon either sideby
steep bluffsof bare friable sandstone,and
covered,where
notcultivated,by
adensegrowth of greenish,pungent- smelling, almostleafless shrubsand
afewwillows.The
shorttwilightcame
quicklyto an endand
left us lost, stuck in the sand in a dense growthof brush, fromwhence we
werefinally extricated through the aid of a Mexican,and
about9.30p. m. found ourway
toan
adobehut, wherewe
spent thenight.Fiveo'clockthe followingmorning, July21,foundusonce