TROPICAL NAPOLEON

THE RECIPES

237

TEAM CO 2009

Loan Co Paul John Padua Panida Garrett

TROPICAL NAPOLEON

This dessert combines a plucky lemon cake with smooth, melt-in-your-mouth, exotic fruit crémeux. A sweet blueberry sauce, Grapefruit Sorbet, and an aromatic Rosemary Tuile complete

the flavor profile.

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Lemon Chiffon Cake

396 g (14 oz/2 cups) granulated sugar 135 g (4.76 oz/1 cup plus 3 Tbsp) cake flour 3.5 g (0.12 oz/½ tsp) salt

12 g (0.42 oz/2 Tbsp) finely grated lemon zest

1.504 kg (53 oz/1 pt plus 2 cups plus 3 Tbsp plus 1½ tsp) whole milk 270 g (9.5 oz/1 cup plus 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp) freshly squeezed lemon juice 260 g (9.18 oz/14 large) egg yolks

6 g (0.21 oz/1½ tsp) pure vanilla extract 420 g (14.81 oz/14 large) egg whites

1.

Preheat the oven to at 320°F (160°C).

2.

In a large bowl, combine 198 g (7 oz/1 cup) of the sugar with the cake flour, salt, and lemon zest. Stir in 482 g (17 oz/2 cups) of the milk, then whisk in the remaining milk, lemon juice, egg yolks, and vanilla.

3.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on high speed to soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining 198 g (7 oz/1 cup) sugar and whip to stiff peaks to form a meringue. Gently fold the meringue into the batter.

4.

Scrape the batter into twelve 3-in (7.6-cm) flexible, silicone cylinder molds and bake in a water bath until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Unmold and cool completely.

238

PLATING FOR GOLD

Tropical Crémeux

200 g (7 oz/¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp) exotic purée 150 g (5.3 oz/⅔ cup plus 1 tsp) heavy cream 30 g (1.05 oz/2 Tbsp) whole milk

37 g (1.3 oz/2 large) egg yolks 50 g (1.76 oz/1 large) whole egg 50 g (1.76 oz/¼ cup) granulated sugar

4 g (0.14 oz/2 sheets) gelatin (gold grade), bloomed and drained

1.

In a saucepan, bring the exotic purée, cream, and milk to a gentle boil over medium-high heat.

2.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole egg, and sugar. Add half of the hot cream mixture to the egg yolk–sugar mixture to temper the eggs, then return the entire mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. Add the drained gelatin and stir until dissolved. Divide the crémeux among twelve 3-in (7.6-cm) flexible, silicone cylinder molds and six 2-in (5-cm) oval, flexible, silicone molds and freeze until ready to use.

Blueberry Sauce

454 g (1 lb/3¼ cups) fresh blueberries

240 g (8.46 oz/1 cup plus 3 Tbsp plus ¾ tsp) granulated sugar 59 g (2 oz/¼ cup) water

3 vanilla beans, split lengthwise and seeds scraped

1.

In a saucepan, bring all of the ingredients to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower the heat and let simmer for a few minutes. Add some water if the sauce is too thick.

2.

Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. Discard the vanilla pods. Cool, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Grapefruit Sorbet

53 g (1.87 oz/¼ cup plus ¾ tsp) granulated sugar 13 g (0.45 oz/2 Tbsp plus ½ tsp) dextrose powder 2 g (0.07 oz/½ tsp plus ⅛ tsp) sorbet stabilizer 59 g (2 oz/¼ cup) water

500 g (17.6 oz/2 cups plus 2 Tbsp plus 2¼ tsp) pink grapefruit purée 40 g (1.4 oz/2 Tbsp) glucose syrup

1.

In a bowl, combine the sugar, dextrose powder and sorbet stabilizer.

2.

In a saucepan over low heat, heat the water to 104°F (39°C), then whisk in the dry ingredients.

Continue whisking and bring the mixture to 185°F (85°C). Remove from the heat. Fold in the grapefruit purée and glucose. Chill in an ice bath, then process in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

THE RECIPES

239

Grapefruit Jelly

454 g (1 lb/1¾ cups plus 2 Tbsp plus 2¼ tsp) cold water 6.9 g (0.24 oz/1 Tbsp) agar agar

1.9 lt (63.27 fl oz/2 qt) freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice

1.

In a saucepan, mix the water and agar agar powder. Gently bring to a boil over medium- high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the pink grapefruit juice.

2.

Pour the jelly onto a sheet pan and let set in the refrigerator.

3.

Cut into ½-in (1-cm) cubes. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

240

PLATING FOR GOLD

Rosemary Tuile

56 g (1.97 oz/½ cup) pastry flour

52 g (1.83 oz/⅓ cup plus 2 Tbsp plus ¾ tsp) confectioners’ sugar 28 g (1 oz/1 large) egg white

42 g (1.5 oz/3 Tbsp) unsalted butter, melted 2 g (0.07 oz/1 tsp) finely chopped fresh rosemary

1.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

2.

In a bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, and egg white to a paste. Stir in the melted butter.

Mix well, then stir in the chopped rosemary.

3.

Spread the mixture over a sunburst stencil (see photo on page 239) placed on a silicone baking mat–lined sheet pan to create 12 tuiles. Bake until just beginning to brown around the edges, about 5 minutes. Cool completely.

ASSEMBLY

Pulled sugar loops (see page 308)

1.

Cut each Lemon Chiffon Cake in half horizontally. Unmold the Tropical Crémeux and arrange one on top of the bottom half of each cake. Top with the other half of the cake.

Unmold the 2-in (5-cm) oval molds of Tropical Crémeux and cut each in half. Arrange one half on top of each cake and place the cake on a plate.

2.

Lean a Rosemary Tuile against each cake. Spoon some Blueberry Sauce next to the cakes on each plate. Place a quenelle of Grapefruit Sorbet on each plate and some cubes of Grapefruit Jelly next to it. Garnish with a pulled sugar loop.

Blueberry Sauce Rosemary

Tuile

Grapefruit Jelly Grapefruit

Sorbet Pulled Sugar

Loop Tropical

Cremeux' Lemon Chiffon

Cake