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AN ANALYTICAL STUDY OF OLDEST FABRIC OF INDIA-KHADI AS A SUSTAINABLE MATERIAL FOR INTERIOR DESIGN

Mrs. Afroz Adil

Architecture and Interior Design Dept., Government Women’s Polytechnic College Dr. Vijeta Bhatore

Fashion Technology Dept. Government Women’s Polytechnic College

Abstract - Khadi is the oldest fabric manufactured in India. It emerged in India when Indians were struggling for their freedom. As a matter of fact, Khadi manufacturing was promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as swadeshi as a part of the freedom fighting movement. It is a hand spun & hand woven natural fabric and is sustainable too. There are very many uses of Khadi in fashion industry. Khadi is also being used in decorating and designing interior spaces. Khadi can be used as a tapestry and upholstery material in residences, offices, shops and vehicles as well. But these uses are restricted due to certain reasons. Khadi today is facing many problems in attaining fame globally. It is difficult for Khadi to compete with other artificially manufactured fabrics. In spite of being a natural and eco-friendly fabric Khadi till date has not gained the popularity it deserves. This research highlights such hindrances in Khadi acceptance. Also, how possibly can these issues be solved to make Khadi more acceptable by common man for designing their interior spaces are studied in this paper. This paper also gives certain other options for the Khadi industry for easy adaptation in interior designing.

Keywords: Khadi, Sustainable, swadeshi, Freedom Fighting Movement, Globally, Fashion industry, Consumer friendly, Natural & Artificial Fabrics.

1. INTRODUCTION

The swadeshi fabric of India is Khadi and so has patriotic feeling attached to it.It is sustainable and so there arises a need to increase the use of Khadi over other artificial fabrics. As it is a natural fabric it has got a fantastic raw texture and is also available in a variety of colors. In this world of modernization and fashion, Khadi is losing its popularity and charm. There is a need to bring back the charm of Khadi with the help of the industries, academicians and most importantly - the youth. Instead of limiting the use of Khadi to Fashion industry, new ways of bringing Khadi back to the market have to be explored. Interior designing is one such stream where Khadi can be consumed in a large scale in the form of tapestry as well as upholstery.

1.1 Khadi-

Khadi is a hand spun and hand-woven natural fabric. The word Khadi is derivevd from Khaddar. It has originated from East India but is also popular amongst the East Asian countries including Bangladesh and Pakistan. It is natural fabric which can be made up of cotton, silk or wool. It is a versatile, luxurious, durable, light weight and comfortable material. Basically Khadi is of three types based on the fiber used for its manufacturing.

Cotton Khadi is Khadi made from cotton fiber, Silk Khadi is made from silk fiber and Wool Khadi is manufactured using wool fiber. Khadi is available in different colors, textures, weaves, patterns, and depending on all this the price also varies.

1.2 Sustainable Material-

Sustainable material implies that it is manufactured from natural resources without causing much harm to the nature. Sustainable materials are those that are produced in the required quantities without the depletion of non renewable resources and also without disturbing the environmental equilibrium. Use of sustainable materials reduces the consumption of energy in the built up spaces and also it makes the space more durable.

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during the winters. This unique quality of Khadi can be utilized by interior designers for making upholstery and tapestry out of Khadi.

1.3 Interior Design-

Interior designing is a design-oriented discipline where any type of built up space can be designed. Interior design means designing the complete built up ambience that includes walls, floors, ceiling, lights, color, furniture, wall openings, accessories, and many more.

Interior design is a vast discipline that caters to designing of residences, offices, commercial buildings and even vehicles. Interior designers design spaces to make them safe, functional and aesthetically appealing. The fastest and cheapest way of renovating the interior space is to change the tapestry and upholstery. Interior designers have to encourage the use of Khadi in designing the tapestry and upholstery and opt for a sustainable option. Khadi has a unique raw texture than can provide an earthy as well as a classy look to the interiors at the same time. Khadi as a soft furnishing material can be used in a wide range of interior design themes.

1.4 Uses of Khadi in Interior Design-

Khadi has a wide usage in Interior designing. It has a very raw and earthy feel that is considered apt for sustainable designing. A wide range of colors and textures can be obtained in Khadi and this can act as a boon for interior designers. Designers need to come up with creative and innovative ideas of using Khadi in designing the interior spaces, be it an office, residence, commercial building or may be vehicles. The table below shows many such uses of Khadi in interiors.

Sr. No. Uses Images

1. Curtains and Rugs

2. Table covers and Dining Table Accessories

3. Wall Hangings, Lamp Shades

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4. Sofas and Cushion Covers

5. Bed Sheets and Bathroom Linens

6. Planters and Shoe racks

7. Car Seat Covers and Office Chairs

Table 1.1

Table 1.1 shows different uses of Khadi in various types of interiors. But there still arises a need to experiment more with this naturally available sustainable material. False ceilings and internal partitions can be designed using Khadi as the main material with the help of wooden or metallic frame structure. Also interior accessories like pen stands, wall clocks, flower vases, show pieces, wall carpets can be designed using Khadi.

1.5 Objective-

To analyse Khadi as a sustainable material for interior design.

2 LITERATURE REVIEW-

The below given researches were studied for the completion of this study-

A Study on Evolution of Khadi and Current Factors Leading to Potential Opportunities in Khadi Sector – (2020)-Vandana Tripathi Nautiyal, Dr. AvadhutAtre : This paper states the fact that Khadi has a long Indian history. As a freedom fighting tool Gnadhiji used Khadi as an Indian Fabric to boycott other foreign origin fabrics. But after independence popularity of Khadi reduced despite of Government’s efforts and initiatives to promote it. After 1990’s designers took interest in Khadi and since then it

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privatization and liberalization. Due to the modern renaissance the world has become a global village as ideas, services, goods, technology, trade and culture has got an easy access. The MSME (Micro Small Medium Enterprise) plays an important role in Indian as well as global economy. This domain is made up of around 30 million units, contributes to around 8% to the national GDP, gives employment to 70 million people, export of about 40% and produces approximately 6000 products. Khadi is one of the most important of these 6000 products that gives employment and develops skills. The author here concentrates on the Indian Khadi sector. This sector is facing a lot of opportunities and problems in existence in the current market scenario. The author focuses on the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, problems, and tentative solutions to these problems.

Abigail Mcgowan (1960) - Khadi Curtains and Swadeshi Bed Covers: Textiles and the changing possibilities of home in western India: This paper states that the scholars during the colonial period said that the expansion in Indian textile production is due to the consumption trends rather than handlooms. But this study of the scholars was based on only aspect of consumption and that is clothing. This paper also talks about the new demand of western India of fabric not being used as clothing textile but being used as curtains and furnishing material. This research concentrates on the other use of fabric that is furnishing, during the late colonial periods. This brought a new idea of home decorating and providing aesthetic sense and privacy at the same time.

3 METHODOLOGY

Primary and secondary data were collected for this research study. As primary data thirty structured personal interviews of industry related personnel’s were conducted.

Industrialists who manufacture Khadi upholstery, retailers who sell upholstery & tapestry and interior designers were interviewed regarding the problems Khadi is facing in gaining popularity in the interior design industry.15 questions were asked to each of the interviewee. These different questions helped in knowing the severity to each short listed problem. The responses are then analyzed and mentioned individually in the paper. For the secondary data literature related to Khadi and its uses in interior designing were studied and is described in the literature review section. Combining both the primary and the secondary data, conclusions are drawn out.

4 DATA ANALYSIS-

Fabric manufacturers, fabric retailers and interior designers were interviewed regarding the problems Khadi as a fabric is facing in gaining popularity in the interior designing field.In all fifteen questions were asked and a graph showing the severity of each problem is prepared based on the feedback of the interviewees. Graph 1.1 shows the relative percentage of every problem.

Problems and tentative solutions for Khadi acceptance

Graph 1.1

0.00%

10.00%

20.00%

30.00%

40.00%

50.00%

60.00%

70.00%

80.00%

90.00%

100.00%

Severity of Hurdles

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As seen in the graph above 93.6% of the interviewees said that the basic problem that Khadi is facing is inadequate promotion. 73.5% of them felt that there are fewer entrepreneurs in the market who use Khadi as a tapestry and upholstery material.

Underdeveloped infrastructure was another reason explained by 62.7% of the interviewees.

62.0% of them said that Khadi faces a tough competition with the other foreign made artificial fabrics that are easily available at a reasonable rate. 59.7% people said that there is no or negligible amount of online marketing for Khadi furnishings. 54.6% said that Khadi lacks surface ornamentation and so cannot be used in a variety of purposes in interior designing. 48.5% of the interviewees were convinced that Khadi is not being explored as a furnishing material for interior design and interior accessories and so is not much used in interior spaces. 46.3% of them believed that the quantity of Khadi production is less as compared to its demand and so it falls out to be very expensive. 37.2% said that there are a very few skilled labor for Khadi manufacturing and its surface ornamentation, moreover this labor is neither well paid nor is provided with the basic life amenities. 34.7% thought that there is lack of experimentation in Khadi fabric structure.25.6% answered that Khadi manufacturers and retailers face the problem of insufficient budget supply from the government to come up with new production and marketing technologies. As the farmers of India depend on rains for their farming, 12.2 % of the interviewees said that due to this there exists a problem of insufficient and irregular supply of raw material for the manufacturing of Khadi. Khadi industry is mostly run by the government and so around 11.5% people thought that Khadi industry needs privatization and intervention by the private industries. 9.0% said that Khadi has many other competitor global fabrics that are easily available, more durable, readily available and aesthetically appealing. 8.7% of them said that different weaving styles and combining different fibers in the weaving techniques can provide designers with a wide range of fabrics that can be more durable, maintenance free and pocket friendly too.

5 CONCLUSION

Since the freedom fighting movement Khadi has been there in the Indian Fashion market, but now in this era of globalization it is struggling to make its mark worldwide. To regain the popularity of Khadi it needs to be explored in different industries other than fashion industry. Due to the strong competition Khadi is facing with other fabrics there are certain issues in using Khadi. Interior designers need to think over the use of the Khadi fabric in interior spaces as a soft furnishing material. As Khadi is made from natural fibers utilizing a minimal amount of resources it is a sustainable material and so the use of Khadi over other artificial fabrics should be promoted more. Interior Designers should come up with innovative ideas of using Khadi not only as a tapestry and upholstery material but also for designing false ceilings, partitions, home accessories and gift articles.Government, entrepreneurs, designers, and industrialists everyone will have to collaborate with each other to increase the use of Khadi and opt for a sustainable option. Khadi consumption should become multi faceted and then and then only this sustainable Indian Fabric can become competent globally.

REFERENCES

1. https://iknockfashion.medium.com/khadi-the-sustainable-home-decor-revolution-50b29e8ef3ba

2. https://textilevaluechain.in/in-depth-analysis/articles/textile-articles/innovative-apparel-products-khadi- fabric/

3. https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/exploring-khadi-through-the-peti-charkha/

4. https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/delhi/2020/feb/08/fusing-khadi-fashion-with-interiors- 2100598.html

5. https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/khadi-fabric

6. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/283438599_Khadi_Curtains_and_Swadeshi_Bed_Covers_Textile s_and_the_changing_possibilities_of_home_in_western_India_1900-1960

7. https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/why-khadi-is-one-of-the-most-sustainable-fabrics-to-consider-now

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