JOURNAL OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGV * No. 88 - 2012
THE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY OF KNITTED FABRIC FOR PRESSURE GARMENT
SU 6 N DINH KfCH THUdC C O A VAI DfT KIM D 6 1 Vdl SAN PHAM MAC BO SAT
Chu Dieu Huong, Dao Thi Chinh Thuy Hanoi University ofSience and Technology Received February 28, 2012; aecepicd May 9,2012
ABSTRACT
tn this paper, we have investigated the dimenttonal stability of 1x1 cotton rib knitted fabric depending on some technological parametres such as the loop lengths and the ratio cpi/wpi The lx 1 rib knitted fabric has been knitted In cimular knitting machine with diameter of 26 inches and machine gauge is 18. hvo kinds of cotton yarns Ne30 and Ne36 were used The value of toop length and the ratio cpi/wpi have been 2 40. 2.50. 265, 2 80. 2.95. 3.10. 3 25 mm and 0.54. 0 55.0 59. 0.61. 0 64.
0.61, 0.60 respectively for Ne30 cotton yarn and these values have been 2 30. 2.40. 2 55. 2 70. 2 80.
2.95and056. 0.59. 0.62. 0.62. 064. 0.65 respectively for Ne36 cotton yarn Is was found that, forthe 1x1 rib fabric knitted fmm Ne30 and Ne36 cotton yarn the optimal values of toop length have been 2 50 and 2 40. the best value of ratio cpi/wpi has found 0 55-0 59 respectively for Ne30 and Ne36 cotton yam In these technological condldions the 1x1 nb knitted fabrics have good dimensional stability in reaching the equilibrium state and using process, so that they will assure a good fit for kniwear and for pressure gament. especially.
T 6 M TAT
Tmng bdi bdo ndy. chung tdi dd khdo sdt sg dn dinh kich thu&c cua vdi d$t kim cotton Rib 1x1 phu thudc vdo mdt sd thdng so cdng nghd nhu chiiu ddi vdng sgi vd ty sd cpi/wpi. Vii rib 1x1 duac d$t trdn mdy ddt kim trdn du&ng kinh 26 inches, dp mdy 18 v&i hai toai sgi: cotton chi sd Ne30 vd Ne36. Gid tq chiiu ddi vdng sgi vd ty sd cpi/wpi khdo sdt tuang img Id 2.40, 2.50; 2.65; 2.80; 2,95;
3.10; 3.25 mm vd 0.54; 0.55. 0.59. 0.61; 0.64; 0.61; 0.60 ddi v&i sgi cotton Ne30 vd cdc gid tq ndy Id 2.30; 2.40. 2,55; 2,70. 2,80. 2.95 vd 0.56. 0.59; 0.62. 0.62. 0.64. 0.65 tuang img ddi v&i sgi cotton Ne36. Gid tri tdi uu vi chiiu ddi vdng sgi Id 2.50 vd 2.40. aid tq cpVwpl tdi uu tim dugc Id 0.55 vd 0.59 tuang Cmg v&i sgi cotton Ne30 vd Ne36 Tmng ede didu kidn cdng nghd nhu vdy vdi rib 1x1 cd dd dn dinh kich thu&c tdt nhit trong qud trinh d$t trang thdi cdn bdng vd trong qud trinh sir dung, nhu vdy vdi sd bdo ddm dd vira vdn tit cho cdc sdn phim ddt kim. ddc bidt Id sdn phim ddt kim m$c bd sdt
.. INTRODUCTION The shrinkage and stretch of fabric are Ti,„ „ .., . , r serious problem for the knitwear.
Ihc pressure garment wiis used for
difTerent medical application such as Ireaiemcnl They are the reason of dimensional of hypertrophic scars, horsery anti- changes in the fabric. The structure of knitted trombo...There are two main t\pes of pressure ^^^""^ '^ considered as a system of stitches, garment: Warp or well knitted ready-lo-wair ^^ich are forming by the bending yam. During J . , , the knitting process, the yam formine the fabric garment and custom-made garment constructed • A ' J <""'"'"'"% "'^ u.ui K.
T .• I u • n , are always under stress. In the result, the fabric by occupational therapists. For two types ot j^ Reformed and it tend to retum the relaxed productions, the fit ol the garment is a major s,ate when fabric is remouved from the factor that delcrmincs the pressure exerted on machine''-"', because it is more distorted than in the body so that the success or failure of the natural relaxed state ,
treatment . All most of pressure garment is A^ ,u„ (XK • • u _, , , , . , , , , . . , , P , ^ . . . . ^ -J _, As the fabric is reached the balanced producled by knitted fabric, which ,s considered state, it is in the minimum internal elastic as wrong dimensional stability. In the result, energy [1],[2]. The non-balanced state of cotton thefitofthegarment in using is influenced. knitwear is changing when the fabric is
JOURNAL OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY • No. 88 - 2012 laundered and dried. Therefore, the geometrical
dimensions of knitwear are changing. In using process, the knitwear is under different deformation and it tend to exhibit residuel extension. When the knitwear is made from unequilibrium knitted fabric, the dimension of knitwear after first wear can change so much, that the knitwear will be unfit for use [3].
There were numerous researehs in the dimensional properties of knitted fabrics. In analyse the structure of plain fabric
Munden [4] has found relations below:
Wpi = cpi/wpi.
(1); cpi =
(3); wP'
ISi
(4);
Where: N is stitch density; cpi is the numbers of courses per inch; wpi is the number of wales per inch; IR is the sum of all stitch length in a rapport and K|, K^. K3, K4 are constants. Postle [5] and Knapton [6] has demonstrated that in fully-relaxed state the K||.
4| values are constant perdictable and independent of yam and of machine variables and in this state the loop shape is similar, for nature and synthetic fibre plain- knitted fabric investigated-The values of K(i^] have been 23.40; 5.70; 4.10; 1.40 respectively for plain fabric knitted from cotton yam.
By Knapton when the 1x1 rib fabric is in a equilibrium state the value Kji^i are quasi constants. These values of K[MI are 67.7 iO.2;
10.60±0.4; 6.03±0.2 and 1.76±0.15 respectivly for 1x1 rib fabric. Kudriavin and Salov [7] have found that when Ihe knitted fabric is knitted with the optimal value of loop module l/d (I is loop length and d is yam practical diameter), the fabric will reach the fully-relaxed state.
2. EXPERIJMENTAL METHOD In this research, we have investigated the dimenlional stability of 1x1 cotton rib knitted fabric depending on two technological parametres: the loop length and the ratio cpi/wpi. The Ixl rib knitted fabric has been
knitted in knitting machine with diameter of 26 inches and machine gauge is 18, two kinds of cotton yams Ne30 and Ne36 are used. The value of loop length and the ratio cpi/wpi have been 2.40, 2.50, 2,65, 2.80, 2.95, 3.10, 3.25 and 0.54, 0.55, 0.61, 0.59, 0,61, 0,64, 0.61, 0,60. respectively for Ne30 cotton yam and these values have been 2.30, 2.40, 2.55, 2.70, 2.80, 2.95 and 0.56, 0.59. 0.62, 0.62, 0.64, 0.65 respectivly for Ne36 cotton yam. After knitting, the knitted fabrics (sample) have been laundered and dried by the eonditons according to standard ISO-5077 (water temperature is 40°C, washing time is is 90 minutes, rotation frequency of hydro extraction is 1000 min'') in order to investigate the dimentional stability of fabric after knitting until reaching equilibrium state and in using process.
10 laundered cycles have been done.
After every laundered cycle, the values K1.4 have been calculated and compared with values given by Muden and Knapton in order to find the fully-relaxed state of 1x1 rib knitted fabrics.
J. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The graph of values Kj^ for Ixl cotton rib fabric knitted by Ne30 and table of values KM for 1x1 cotton rib fabric knitted Ne36 cotton yams after every laundered cycle given belows; Fig.I -Fig. 4.
After 2"** laundered and dryed cycle all the samples are reached the quasi equilibriun state, which is verified by the values of their K M . These values of 1x1 rib fabric knitted with the loop length of 2.50 and 2.40 are 64.76; 10.86; 5.96; 1.82 and 63.37; 10.35; 6.13; 1.69 respectivly for Ne30 and Ne36 cotton yarn are nearer to values K]^ given by Knapton (67.7 ±0.2;
10.60±0.4; 6.03±0.2 and 1.76±0.15).
The laundered and dryed cycle of 3- 10 are considered as condition of using process. In comparision Ihe change of dimension after every laundered and dryed cycle using Student's t-test and Fisher exact test we have found that the fabric knitted with the loop length of 2.50 and 2,40 and with ratio 0.55-0.59 respectively for Ne30
JOURNAL OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY * No. 88 - 2012 and Ne36 cotton yam are more stability
than the other fabrics. U can explained that in these technological condidions, the 1x1 rib fabrics is getting the best geometrical structure, which assure they can reach rapidly the equilibrium slate, i, e. the condition of minimum internal clastic energy.
These values are the optimal technological parameter for 1x1 rib fabric for reaching and resting at the equilibrium state.
4. CONCLUSION
In conclusion, for the Ixl rib fabric knitted from Ne30 and Ne36 cotton yam, the optimal values of loop length have been 2.50 and 2.40 respectively; the best value of ratio cpi/wpi has found 0.55 and 0.59. In these technological condldions the 1x1 nb knitted fabrics have good dimensional stability in reaching the equilibrium state and using process, so that they will assure a good fit for kniwear and for pressure gamenL especially.
A'
" 1 1
i
.J
Fig. I Values Kl of Ixl rib kttitteil fabric. Ne30 Fig. 2 Values K: ,./ / > / rib hiittetlfabric. \eSn cottottyarn cotton yam
..-••*. 'i-kr.--
•'A I
:F
HK 3 Values K3 of Ixl rih knitted ftihrie. SeSO Fig 4 I allies K4 of lx! rib hiiitedfabric Ne30 cotton yarn cotton yarn
JOliRNAL OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY * No. 88 - 2012
Tablet: Values K,.4 for Ixl cotton rih fabric knitted by Ne36afler every laundered and dryed cycle
Liundcrtd cytk
InHUI
I
2
3
'
Simple
Rift-230 K-16-;-lU R.lt.-2SS EU6-270 iU6-280 IU6-295 R36-23n R36-240 R36-25S [U6-270 [U6-280 IU6-29S IU6-230 IU6-240 R36-255 R36-270 R36-280 R36-295 R36-23S R36-24S R36-2SS R36-270 R36-280 R36-295 R36-230 R36-240 R36-255 R36-270 R36-280 R36-295 R36-330 R36-240 R36-25S R36-270 R36-280 R36-295
^,
43,62 43,32 44,22 4^42 4 M 1 48-^4 (>? 71 M ' M
,-•,,.;
63.78 63.53 63.86 6S.S3 63,37 62.89 61.82 63.03 62,63 fti 79 65 07 62 38 61 80 62.80 62,93 65,30 64,43 63,38 61.57 62.10 60.08 66,33 63,68 62,84 61.11 62.61 62.10
K ,
10.24 I) ja 8.SS 8.63 8,37 8.18 10,79 10.35 10,13 9,96 9,91 9.79 10,79 10,35 10,09 10,00 9,91 9,83 10.83 1038 10,05 10,08 9,95 9,92 10.75 10,42 10.17 10.00 9,95 9,87 10,87 10.35 10,17 10.08 10,07 10,00
IV.
4,26 4 59 4.98 i,3S 5,54 5.98 5,91 6,18 6,29 6,40 6,41 6,52 6.07 6.13 6.23 6.18 6,36 6,37 6,08 6 27 6,21 6.13 6,31 6,35 6 07 6,18 6 35 M 5 6 24 hON 6 10 M S 6.18 6.06 6.22 6,21
K .
2.40 2,06 1.78 1,60 1.51 1.37 I.B3 1.67 1.61 1,56 l,S4 1,50 1.78 1.69 1,62 1,62 1,56 1,54 1,78 1,66 1,62 1,64 1,58 1,56 1.77 1,69 1.63 1,63 1,59 1,62 1.78 1.68 1,65 1,66 1,62 1,61
Laundered cyele
6
7
8
9
10 Sample
R36-230 R36-240 R36-255 R36-270 R36-280 R36-295 R36-230 R36-240 R36-2SS R36-270 R36-280 R36-295 R36-230 R36-240 R36-2S5 R36-270 R36-280 R36-295 R36-230 R36-240 R36-255 R36-270 R36-3S0 R36-395 R36-230 R36-240 R36-255 R36-270 R36-280 R36-295
KlMI R.I
6S,70 64,71 61.83 62,53 61,87 61.29 65,85 64,38 63.55 61,32 61,22 59.89 66,42 63,27 62,29 61,58 59.90 59,86 66,57 64,69 62,52 61.36 60.55 60.24 66.01 63,14 61,24 59,93 60.53 58.00
K I
10.87 10.42 10,13 9.93 10,03 10,04 10,79 10.46 10,28 10,08 10,11 10,04 10,83 10,42 10.29 10,08 10,07 10,04 10,91 10,46 10,25 10,12 10,11 10,04 10,87 10,31 10,20 10,00 10,07 10 13
K j
6,05 1 6.21 1 6,10 1 6,30 1 6,17 1 6,10 1 6,10 1 6,1s 1 6,1s 1 6,08 i 6.06 1 5,96 : 6,13 1 6.07 1 6,05 1 6,11 1 5,95 I 5,96 1 6,10 1 6.18 1 6,10 1 6.06 1 5,99 1 6,00 1 6,07 1 6.13 1 6,00 I 5.99 1 6.01 1 5.73 1
<4
SO 68 66 58 62 64 77 70 66 66 67 68 76 72 70 65 69 68 79 69 68 67 69 67 79 68 70 67 67 77
,I01IHNA1. OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY 4 No. 88 - 2012 REFERENCES
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Postle R.,"Dimensional stability of plain knitted fabric", Joumal ofthe Textile Institut, 59(2), pp. 65-77, 1968.
Knapton J. F.. Ahrens I-. J., Ingenthron W. W. "The dimensional properties of knitted wool fabric. Joumal ofthe Textile Institut, 59 (2). px>- 65-77. 1968.
Salov I. I., Kudriavin L. A . OCHOBbI IIPOEKTHPOBAIIHJI TPHKOTA)KHOro nPH3BOflCTBAC3JIEMKIlTAMMCAnP. Moscow. 1989.
Aut/ior's aJiJress Chu Dieu Huong -Tel: (+84) I698l.^4.^.s'> - Email: huongcd-Iex@mail-hut edu.vn School of Textile, Leather and Fashion
Hanoi University of Science and Technology No.l Dai Co Viel Sir., Ha Noi. Viel Nam.
