NGHIEN CU'U BAO CHfi KEM DU-dNG DA CO CHdA HOAT CHAT

NGHIEN CU'U BAO CHfi KEM DU-dNG DA CO CHdA HOAT CHAT QUERCETIN

Ttin Qudc Hting', Nguyin Hing Trang' (1) L&p D5. Tne&ng Dgi hgc Y Dugc Hui (2) Khoa Dugc, Tru&ng Dgi hgc Y Dtegc Hue Tdm tit

Dgt van de: Lao hda da se lim suy giim chuc nang ciu true ciia tan da. Nhiiu nghien cuu ve d c hogt chit thifn nhien da chung minh khi nang chdng oxy hda, vi khing tia UV vugt frgi ciia Quercetin so vdi cic fatavonoid khic. Do dd vifc nghien cdu bio che kem dudng da chda hogt chat Quercetin sg gdp phin da dang hda d c sin pham ngin ngda llo hda fren thj tnrdng. Nguyfn lifu va phuomg phap nghifn cdu: Dya vio mdt sd tieu chi nhu the chit kem, khi ning giii phdng boat chit vi khi ning khang tia UVA cCia chd phim de tya chgn dugc t i dugc ndn, ta dugc nhu hda, ti dugc dieu chinh thi chit, td dd hoan thifn qui trinh bio che kem dgt tieu chuan chat tugmg de ra. Ket qui: Da xay dyng dugc cdng thuc vl qui frinh bio che sin phim bing phuong phip nhQ hda dgt cic chi tieu chit lugng theo tifu chuin qui djnh. Dinh gia dugc khi ning khing tia UVA ciia che phim Ket luin: Di bio ehi dugc kem dudng da chua hogt chit Quercetin ngin ngda lao hda.

T& khda: Kem du&ng da, Quercetin, Chdng oxy hoa, Khdng lia UV.

Abstract

FORMULATION OF A MOISTURIZING CREAM CONTAINING QUERCETIN Tran Quoc Hung*, Nguyen Hong Tran^

(1) Class D5, Hue University of Medicine & Pharmacy (2) Faculty of Pharmacy, Hue University of Medicine & Pharmacy Introduction: Skin aging is a process that involves the loss of structural integrity and physiological fimction of the skin. Many natural compound studies have shown the antioxidant and anti-UV capabilities of Quercetin. The scope of this study was to design an optimal Quercetin cream which can prevent or freat skin agmg. Materials and methods: Selecting the base ingredient, emutsifymg agent, stabilizing agent, based on stability, homogeneity, smooth, ability to release quercetin, and assessment of the anti- UV strength of the product. The process of preparation was completed and evaluated the quality standards built. Result: The formulated product complies with pharmaceutical manufacturing standards, Products claiming UVA protection had effectiveness. Conclusion: The study achieved to prepare moisturing cream containing Quercetin.

Key words: Moisturizing cream, Quercetin, antioxidant, anli-UVA.

l.D,^TVANDfe cyc tim, mdi frudng...[l] Nhidu nghifn cdu vicdc Lio hda da Ii qui frhih suy giam chuc ning vi hogt chdl thiin nhien co tdc dyng ngdn ngiea ldo Iam mat di cau triic tdng thi ciia tin da, dudi tic hoa dd cho thiy khi ning vugt trgi cua Quercetin dgng ciia cac yiu td ben trong: tudi tic, che dg an frong chdng oxy hoa va khang tia UV [2] Vdi uong, stress., vl ci cic yeu td bfn ngoli nhu tia mong mudn dua Quercetm vao my phim, tgo ra

^ ^ Dfa chi lien hi: Nguyen Hdng TVang, email: honglrangl604@gmail com

^& Ngdy nhgn bdi: 25/3/2016 * Ngdy ddng y ddng: 22/4/2016 * Ngayxualban 29/4/20f^

258 Tgp chl Y Duyc hgc - Trudng Dgi hgc Y Dug^c Hui - Si D$c bift

mgt sin phim kem dudng da da tic ddng ngin ngua qua tiinh lao hda da, chiing tdi tien hinh thyc hifn de tai nay vdi 2 myc tieu:

- Xdy dgng cong thuc vd quy trinh bdo chi kem dudng da cd ch&a hogt chdt Quercetin

- Ddnh gid chdt lut?ng kem du&ng da Quercetin dtrgc bdo chi

2. NGUYiN LIEU VA PHU'ONG PHAP NGHlfiN CtJtJ

2.1 Nguyen lifu: Quercetin, mdt sd t l duge vaseline, PEG-400... vi cac dyng cy bio che

2.2 Phuang phip nghifn cdu

2.2.1. Xdy dgng cong Ihirc vd quy trinh bdo che Kem dirdng da Quercetin

Khio sit v i xiy dyng cdng tiidc djnh hudng eho chd phim

Khio sit t i dugc nhd hda d cic ndng dd khic nhau

Khio sit t i dugc dieu chinh thd chat d cic ndng dg khic nhau

Lya chgn cdng thdc tdi uu D^ ddn mong

Khd ndng gidi phong hogi chdt.

Phiecmg phdp khuich tm qua gel thgch:

Quercetin sau khi giii phdng ra Ididi t i dugc, thim vio mdi trudng get thgch cd chda sin FeCI, se tgo

vdng phuc mau xanh tam, do dudng kinh cua d c vdng phdc ta so sinh dugc ktil ning giii phdng hogt chat cua mdi cdng thdc.

2.2.2 Ddnh gid chdt lirgng cda kem duffng da Quercetin diegc bdo chi

Dya frfn d c tii lifu phap qui nhu Dugc Dien Vift Nam IV vi cic tieu chuin khic xiy dyng vi dinh gii mdt sd chi tifu chit tugmg cua chi pham.

2.2.3 Bdnh gid khd nang khdng tia UVA cda chi phdm trin md hinh chugt nhat

Dinh gii theo md hinh ciia MafrimRusso Serafini vl cdng sy [3]

Dudi tic dgng cua tia UVA, bd m$t da ciia ca thi xuat hifn nhftng thuang tdn bao gdm hinh thanh nip nhin, llo hda sdm, ban dd do chiy ning.

Niu mdc dg thuang tdn thip hom so vdi mau ddi chieu cho thiy khi ning bio vf da khdi tic hgi tia UVA ciia sin phim.

3. KtV QUA - BAN LU^N 3.1. Kit qui nghiSn cdu

3.3.1. Xay dgng cdng th&c vd quy trinh bdo cbi Kem duffng da Quercetin

Khio sat vl xiy dyng cdng thuc djnh hudng chi phim

Ndng dd Quercetm cho hifu qua diiu frj thudng dung trong mj phim II 0,5% [4].

Bang 1. Ket qui khio sit xay dyng cdng thdc djnb hudng Nhdm

Tl dugc gift am, hoa tan

Tl dugc d i thifn the chit

Tadugc ting thim

Tin ggi - PEG 400 - Propylen glycol - Vaselin - Parafin rin - Alcol cetostearylic - Isopropyl myristate

%

2%

10%

4%

3%

5%

5%

Nhdm Tidugc bio quin Ta dugc tgo miii Nude cit

Tfn ggi - Nipagin - Nipazol - Tinh diu hoa anh dio - Nude cit

%

0,2%

0,05%

1%

vd 100%

Td cdng thdc djnh hudng frfn (qui udc ggi li Hf t i dugc I), tiin hinh khio sit t i dugc nhu hda, t l dugc dieu chinh the chat cho sin pham.

Khao sit t i dug'c nhQ hda

Bang 2. Khao sit ti dugc nhu hda GMS (Glyceryl monostearate) (1-5%) Thinh phan

Quercetm H? ta duac I GMS

CTI + + 1%

23

CT2 + + 2%

£3

CT3 + +

m

3 % CT4

+ +

3

4%

Nhgn xet Kem bio che vdi ti dugc GMS td 1% din 5% cho khi ning nhu hda ting din, the chit kem dgc din nhung khdng dong nhit vi bit dau tgo nhu tuang d ndng dg 3%

*Ghi chu; DSu "+ " co mat trong cong thirc, Ddu "-" khong co mgt trong cong thuc

Tgp chi Y Du^c hgc - Trufrng Dgi hgc Y Duffc Hui - Sd D§c bift 259

Thanh phan Quercetin He ta duac 1 Ceteareth-20

Bang 3. Khao sat ta dugc nhu hoa Ceteareth-20 (2-l6%>

CT5 + +

n

2%

CT6 + +

•

4%

CT7 + + 6%

CT8 + + 8%

Q

Nhan xet Kem bao chi vdi tl dugc Ceteareth-20 tir 2-10% cho khi nang nhu hoa tang dan, the chit long va bit diu tao nhii tuong ngay d ndng dg 2%

Dya trfn kdt qui Idilo sat tl dugc nhu hda GMS vi Ceteareth-20 d nong dg bat diu tgo thinh nhu tuang vi can chinh ti If ham lugng, sao cho khi phdi hgp gii frj HLB nlm frang khoang 8 - 1 2 li gii tri HLB ly tudng cho nhu tuang D/N.

Trfn ca sd dd chiing tdi tiin hanh khio sat sy phdi hgp cua hai logi tl dugc nhu hda niy d ty If GW (2-4%) vi Cetearelh-20 (3 - 5%)

Bang 4. Khio sat hf tl dugc nhu hda phdi hgp cua GMS (2-4%) :Ceteareth-20 3%

Thinh phan Quercetin H^ ta duoc 1 GMS Ceteareth-20

CT9 + + 2%

3 %

[^

CTIO + + 3 % 3 %

^

CTll + + 4%

3 %

Wl

Nhin xet

> CT9: Kem idng, vdn cyc, Ichdng ddng nhat, tich pha ngay sau khi tgo thinh

>CT10: Kem dgc, vdn cyc, khdng ddng nhat, tich pha ngay sau khi tgo thinh

> CTll: Kem dgc, kem mjn. Sau 24h kem vdn cyc, tich pha.

Bang 5. Khao sit hf ti dugc nhu hda phdi hgp cua GMS (2-4%) :Ceteareth-20 4%

Thanh phan Quercetin Hf ta duoc I GMS Ceteareth-20

CT12 + + 2 %

4 %

[Sl

CT13 + + 3 % 4 %

¥1

CT14 + + 4 %

n

4 %

Nhan xet

>CT12: Kem mdm, mjn, ddng nhit, bam dinh tdt tren da. Sau 2 tuan khdng thay doi ve the chat

> CT13; Kem mdm, mjn, ddng nhit, bam dinh tdt fren da. Sau 1 tuan cd dau hifu d|c lai.

> CT14: Kem mem, mjn, ddng nhit, bim dinh tdt frfn da. Sau 1 tuan kem dgc lai, vdn cyc.

Bang 6. Khao sat h? ta duijc nhu hoa ph6i h(rp cua GMS (2-4%): Ceteareth-20 5%

Thinh phan Qu-ircetin H? ta duoc I GMS Ceteareth^20

CTIS + + 2 %

5 %

\A

CT16 + + 3 % 5 %

Q

CT17 + + 4 % 5 %

^A

Nhan xet

>CT15: Kem hoi d$c, min mang, ddng nhat.

it bam dinh tren da. Sau 2 tuin khdng thay ddi ve the chat.

>CT16: Kem dgc, min mang ddng nhit, it bim dinh frfn da. Sau 1 tuan bj vdn cyc.

>CT17: Kem dgc, min ming, ddng nhit, it bam dinh fren da. Sau 1 tuin bi khd, vdn cyc Nhgn xet; Kem bao che vdi ti i? phoi hgp gi&a GMS: Ceteareth-20 cd str cai thien ro r?t vl m^t thi chat, djc hist a cong thitc CT12 vcri ti 1? GMS: Ceteareth-20 (2% : 4%) t^o kem co thS chat mSra min, dong nh^t, 6n djnh sau 2 tu^n quan sat. Vi vay, chung toi quyit dinh lua chipn he ph6i hop GMS:

260 T?p chl Y Du-yc h9C - Tririrag B?l hjc Y Duyt Hui - s l D|c bift

Cetearetfi-20 (2%: 4%) lam t i dugc nhu hda eho kem.

Tuy nhifn, kem bio ehi vdi cdng thdc nly cho cim giic nhdn rit, khd thim khi bdi ten da, do hf ti dugc didu chmh tiie chit sd dyng Vaseline vl Parafin rin chua thich hgp, vi vay cln khio sat lya chgn t l dugc dieu chinh thd ehit khic phu hgp horn.

Khio s i t ta dirgrc diiu chinh the chat

Bing 7. Khio sit sy phdi hgp Ba hanh nhin v l Sap Candelilla 0,5% nham diiu chinh tiii chat Thinh phan

Quercetin Hf ti duac 11 Sap candelilla Ba hgnh nhan

CT18 +

•1-

0,5%

Jl

4%

CT19 + + 0,5%

5%

m

CT20 + + 0,5%

6%

Nhan xet

>CT18: Kem ldng, min, ddng nhit, bim dinh kem frfn da. Sau 2 tuan klidng thay ddi vf thi chat

>CT19: Kem ldng, min, ddng nhit, bim dinh kem frfn da. Sau 2 tuin khdng tiiay ddi ve the chat

>CT20: Kem long, min, ddng nhit, bim dinh kem trfn da. Sau 2 tuin khdng thay doi vi thd chit

*Ghi chu : He ta dugc H la Hf t5 dugc I da co ta dugc nhu hoa GMS:Cetearetii-20 (2%-4%) nhung khong c6 vaselin va parafin rin

Bing 8. Khio sit sy phdi hgp Ba hgnh nhin vl Sip Candelilla 1% nhim diiu ehinh thi chit Thinh ph^n

Quercetin H^ ta duoc n Sap candelilla Bo h ^ nhin

CT21 + + 1%

4%

CT22 + + 1%

5%

g]

CT23 + + 1%

6%

i'N

Nhan xft

>CT21: Kem mem, mjn. ddng nhit, bim dinh tdt trfn da. Sau 2 tuan khdng thay doi vi the chit

> CT22: Kem hai dgc, mjn, ddng nhit, bim dinh kem fren da. Sau 2 tuan khdng tiiay ddi vi thi chat

>CT23: Kem hoi dgc, mjn, ddng nhat, bim dinh kem fren da. Sau 2 tuin khdng thay ddi ve the chit

Bang 9. Khio sit sy phdi hgp Bo hgnh nhin va Sip Candelilla 1,5% nhim dieu chinh tiid chit Thinh pban

Quercetin Hf t i duoe II Sap candelilla Ba hgnh nhan

CT24 + + 1,5%

4%

E]

CT25 + + 1,5%

5%

l^-':;^

CT26 + + 1,5%

6%

[1

Nhin xet

>CT24: Kem mem, m|n, ddng nhit, bim dinh tdt fren da. Sau 2 tuan kem khd, dgc lgi

>CT25: Kem hai dgc, mjn, ddng nhit, bim dinh kfm tren da. Sau 2 tuan kem kho, d^c lai

>CT26: Kem dgc, mjn, ddng nhat, bam dinh kem tren da. Sau 2 tuan khdng thay ddi ve thi chat

Nhgn xel: Cdng tiiuc CT22 vdi sy phdi hgp ciia Ba hanh nhan 5% va Sap Candelilla 1% cho tiif chat kem mdm mjn, ddng nhit, dn djnh. Xet ve m$t thd chit va dd dn djnh cl 2 cdng thdc CT22 vl CT 12 ddu dip dng nhftng yeu can di ra. Do do, can cd nhftng dinh gia cy the ban de lya chgn dugc cdng thdc tdi uu.

Tgp chi V Duffc hgc - Trudmg Dgi hgc Y DUQC Hui - Sd D|c bift

L ^ chgn cdng thdc tdi vu

De tya chgn dugc cdng thdc hji uu cho sin phim, chung tdi tiin hinh phan tich nhOmg tieu chi cy the hom cua dgng bio che dya fren dg din mdng vi khi ning giai phdng hogt chit ciia 2 cdng thdc CT22 vaCT12.

Bang 10. Kit qua danh gii khi nang giii phong host chAt vi dO din miSne c6n» there lua chon Mau

Miu 1: 1ml Quercetin/methanol 0,5%

Miu 2: lgCT12 MSu3:lgCT22

Kha nSng giai pb6ng ho^t chat 2,37 ± 0,06 cm 1,40 ±0,01 cm 2,07 ± 0,06 cm

So din mong

2857,5 ± 27,3 mm'/g 2889,2 ± 27,5 mmVg

Hinh 1. Dinh gii khi ning giii phdng hogt chat Hinh 2. Dinh gii dd din mdng Nhdn xet: Kit qui khio sat cho thay khi ning giii phdng boat chit d cdng thdc CT22 tdt ban so vdi cdng thdc CT12, frong khi dd dan mdng d2 cdng tiidc tucmg ty nhau. Dieu niy chung td ring hf tl dugc dieu chinh tiie chit Ba hgnh nhin 5% phdi hgp sip Candelilla 1% d cdng thdc CT22 cho khi nang tiiim vl giai phdng hogt chit tdt ban so vdi hf Vaseline 3% : Parafin rin 4%. TrSn co sd do chiing tdi quyit djnh lya chgn cdng thdc CT22 de bao chi sin pham.

Quy trinh bao che kem dirdng da Quercetin Phuang phap bao chi: Phuang phip nhu hda.

Thinh phin Kem Dudng da Quercertin 30g

Quercetin 0.15g GMS 0.6g Ceteareai-20 1.2g Alcol cetostearylic 1.5g Sip Candelilla 0.3g Bo hanh nhin 1.5g Propylenglycol 3g PEG-400 0.6g Isopropyl myristate 1.5g Nipagin 0,06g Nipazol 0,015g Tinh diu hoa anh d^o 3 gipt

Nude cit vira dli 30g Niroc Dunn6ng75-80''C

A.

I Kh

nipagin, nipazol, quercetm Dunn6ng50-60''C

fn

1 Khudytrfn |

*"

Th^h phSm

GMS,CeteaTeth-20, Alcol cetostearylic, S ^

Candelilla, Bo h^h nhin, Isopropyl myristate

Dun non 65 70" C Tinh d^u hoa anh dao

D6ng goi

3.1.2, Xay dtmg tieu chuan cirs&cho chepham:

Ket qua kiem nghiem t?i Khoa Du(rc - Truimg DHYD Hue va Trung tSm Kilm nghifm Thuic - MJ pham - Thuc pham ThCra Thien Hue theo TCCS da xSy dung.

262 Tjp chl Y Dup-c hgc - Tririrag B?l hpc Y Duyc Hui - So BJc bi;t

Chi tiSa cam quan STT

1 2 3

Chitieu Trang thii M&u sac Mi^i

M i ^ vitt c^u

Dane kem set, min, ddng nhat khong tap chat nhm thiy duoc M&u v&ng

Miii thom nhe dl chiu

Ket qua Dat Dat Dat Chi tieu h6a If

STT 1 2 3

Chi tiiu

pH cua dung dich 10% trong nuac Chenh lech khoi luong Dinh tinh Quercetin

Mirc vSu cku 5,0-9,0

3 0 K ± 1 0 %

Duong tinh

Kit qua 5,4 (Dat) Dat Dung Chi tieu vf sinh an toln

STT 1 2 3

Chi tieu Chi Thiiy Ngan Arsen

DoTi vi tinh UE/g Ug/g HR/g

Mirc qui dinh theo TCCS

<20,0ng/g

<1,0 ng/g

<5,0 ug/g

Kit qui 0,012 (Dat) 0,014 (Dat) 0,008 (Dat) Chi tieu vi sinh

STT 1 2 3

Chi tiSu

Ting so vi sinh vit hieu khi Ting so bao tii nim moc nam men Vi khuan gay bfnh

Pseudomonas aeruginosa Staphylococus aureus Candida albicans

fionvi tinh CFU/g CFU/g CFU/g CFU/g CFU/g CFU/g

Mirc qui djnh theo TCCS

< 1000 CFU/g SlOO CFU/g Kh6ng du(?c co

Kit qua

< 4,0.10'(Dat)

<10 (Dat) Am tinh Am tinh Am tinh Xay d ^ g vi tham djnh quy trinh djnh

lugng kem dirdng da Quercetin

Tien hinh quft phd, do mgt dg quang ciia cac dung djch quercetin chuin trong methanol cd ndng dd td 2 -7 ^g/ml, tu dd lgp dudng chuan.

Qui trinh xd ty mlu trudc khi djnh tugng:

Cin chinh xic 0,1000 g mlu Kem via cdc cd md 50ml, them 25,0mt methanol, sieu im tiong 10

phut, lgc qua giiy lgc vao binh dinh mdc 25ml, bd sung methanol den vgch. Dimg pipet liy chinh xic 2,00ml cho vao binh dinh mdc 10ml, thfm methanol cho den vach, do dg hip thy tgi budc sdng 370nm, mau tiing nude cat.

Phuang phip so sinh, mau chuin Quercetin/

methanol: 4ng/ml.

Nfinc d» Chii/ml)

Hinh 3 . Quet phd UV-Vis td 250 - 450nm tien 3 mlu Hinh 4. Dudng chuin Quercetin tiong metiianol Nhgn xit: Ket qui quet phd UV-Vis tien miu dugc xd ly theo qui trinh djnh lugmg cho tiiiy vdi phuang phap xd If mau kem bing methanol kit hgp ggn lgc, cd tiie logi bd dugc Inh hudng ciia ti dugc Ien dd hip thy tgi budc sdng 370nm ciia Quercetin, kit qui ve dg tuyen tinh R 1 cho thiy phuang phip djnh lugng nly hoin toin cd thi tin ciy dugc.

Tgp chf Y Duvc hgc - Tru&ng Dgi hgc Y Dugc Hui - Sd D$c bift 263

Kit qua djnh Imjmg him lu(;mg Quercetm trong sin pham bio chl Hiim lugng Quercetin so vdi hkta luQUg ghi tren nhan M l u l

102,45%

Man 2 103,22%

Mlu 3 102,81%

Trung binh 102,83 ±0,39%

Muc yeu clu Him lugmg Quercetm d?t 90,0 -

110,0% so v6i ham lupng ghi tren nhin

Kit luin Dfit

3.1.3. Bdnh gid khd ndng khdng tia UVA cda chi phdm trin md Mnh chupt nhdl:

Chugt nhit 20 - 30 g, dugc nudi trong phdng da Quercetin trudc khi tiip xuc vdi ngudn thd nghifm d nhift dg phdng, cung cip thuc In vi kich dng.

nude udng diy du. Tat cl dugc ego Idng vung lung sau do dugc chia lim 3 nhdm:

> Nhdm 1: Khdng gly kich dng bing den UVA - khdng tiling Kem dudng da Quercetin

> Nhdni 2: Gly kich dng bing dfn UVA - cd bdi mgt Idp mdng khoing 0,2g kem dudng

> Nhdm 3: Gly kich ung bang den UVA - khdng dung Kem dudng da Quercetin

Ngudn kich ung: Den UV budc sdng 365nm, d|t cich viing lung chudt da dugc ego long 10cm, mdi ngiy 2 tiing (td 11 -13h), lien tyc trong vdng 7 ngay.

Bing 11. Ket qui dinh gii khi ning khing tia UVA cua che phim sau 5 ngiy

- Ban do ngng din hinh thinh viy tren ds - Nhieu nip nhan df nhgn thiy trfn lung Bang 12. Kit qui dinh gii khi ning khing tia UVA ciia chdphim sau 7 ngay.

UIMWIJMMiillHMMI

Khdngc

- De nhgn thay ban do - Mgt vai nep nhin khd nhgn thiy

aiB

Ban dd ning den hinh thinh viy tifn d ' Xuat hifn nhihig ndp nhin tin siu Nhgn xet: Ket qui danh gii dya tren tifu chuin

Draize vi miic dg ban do, va mdc lao hda da eho thiy chugt khdng sd dyng kem xuit hifn kich dng vl nep nhin da sau 3 ngiy v l n|ng din Ifn d ngiy thd 5 vi ngiy thd 7. Trong khi dd, chudt sd dyng kem xuit hifn ban dd nhg d ngiy thu 5 vi ting nhg Ifn d ngiy tiid 7.

Tren co sd dd cd the sa bg kit luin ring, sin phim kem dudng da Quercetin dem tgi hifu qui bio vf da khdi tic d^ng ciia tia UVA.

3.2. Ban luSn

Td duffc nhd hda: Ti dugc nhQ hda ti thinh phin quan trgng nhit quyet djnh din tiii chat va dd dn djnh cia kem dugc tgo thanh, qua qui tiinh khio sit chiing tdi nh§n thiy ring, bfn cgnh khi ning nhii hda, can quan tim nhieu ban ddn mdc dd an toln ciia t l dugc dugc tya chgn. Do dd chiing tdi di quyet djnh tya chgn vi khio sit khi ning nhu hda ciia GMS (glyceryl monostearate), Cetearetii-20 trong cdng tiiuc ciia minh. GMS vl 264 Tgp chf Y Duvc hgc - Tnriyng Dgi hgc Y Duyc Hui - Sd D$c bift

Cetearetii-2s0 thudrng dugc sd dyng trong nganh cdng nghifp mj phim vl thyc phim bdi ti'nh an toin vi khi ning nhu hda dn djnh ciia cac t i dugc niy [3]. GMS (HLB 3,5) 11 este cua mgt glyceryl vdi mgt acid stearic, cd khi ning hdt nude tdt ciia nhdm glyceryl, nhung nhanh chdng truang nd va d|ic lgi Idti sd dyng. Vi vgy kit qui tdiio sit cho thay mic dii chua nhu hda dugc holn toin pha nude vi pha diu nhung the chit kem dl die tgi va kfm bin. Ceteareth-20 (HLB 15,4) la mgt Polyoxyl 20 cetostearyi ether, do chi cd mgt nhdm OH nfn khi ning hiit nude kem hem, phii diing lu^mg tdn ban de ed thi nhfl hda dugc hoan toin, ' bfn canh dd Ceteareth-20 khdng cd khi ning truang nd nhu GMS nfn the chat kem ldng khi su dyng dan dgc mgc du di dimg vdi tugng ldn.

VI v^y, sy phdi hgp cua hai chit dem lgi khi nang nhii hda, trucmg nd vua phii, can ddi. Mac khac kem bio chd vdi GMS: Cetearetii-20 (2%: 4%) cd gii tii HLB 11,4. Dly ti gii ti-j HLB ty tudng cho dgng nhii tuong D/N dem Igi kem cd the chit mem mjn, dong nhat, on djnh, dong thdi tugng ta dugc su dyng it ban so vdi khi dimg dan le tiing chat, nen dim bio dugc dg an toan vi tift kifm chi phi sin xuit.

Td dirge dieu chinh tbi chat: Kem tgo thanh td hf tl dugc nen vl hf t i dugc nhu hda GMS:Cetearetii-20 (2% -4%) d cong tiidc CT12 cd the chit mem mjn, ddng nhit vi dn djnh, dip dng nhimg yeu cau de ra. Tuy nhien, kem gly cam giac nhdn rit, khd tham khi bdi tfn da. Tidn hanh phin tich hf ta dugc ndn ban diu chiing tdi xac djnh dugc nguyfn nhin giy ra nhugc diem tien chinh la do hf ta dugc dieu chinh the chit sd dyng Vaseline vi Parafin rin. Vdi mong muon khac phyc nhugc diim giy clm giac nhdn rit, Idid thim khi bdi ten da do hf t i dugc dieu chinh the chat Vaseline vl Parafin. Dong thdi tgo ra mgt sin pham khdng chi dim bio vi m|t thd chit, df chju khi su dyng, mi cdn thin thifn gin gSi vdi thien nhifn, mdi tnrdng chiing tdt dl lya chgn Ba hgnh nhan vi sip Candelilla trong cdng thdc ciia minh.

Ben cgnh nhihig uu diim ndi bit ve khi ning diiu chinh the chat. Bo hgnh nhan cdn dem tgi tic dyng hifp ddng lim ting hifu qui ehdng oxy hda cho san phim bdi cic thinh phan cd trong hgnh nhin

nhu vitamin E, vitamin Bl, magienium [5]...

Sip candelilla dugc chiit xuat td cay Candelilla thudng dugc sd dyng trong my phim bdi tinh thifn nhifn vl khi ning didu chinh the chit vugt ti$i d him tugng tiiip 0,5 - 4%. Kit qui khio sit hf ti dugc dieu chinh tiie chat cho tiiiy sy phdi hgp Ba hgnh nhin 5% vdi Sip Candelilla 1% d cdng tiide CT22 cho kem cd thi chit mem mjn, ddng nhit, dn djnh tuang ty so vdi cdng thuc CTI2 su dyng hf Vaselin vi Parafin rin.

Lga chgn cong Ih&c tdi uu: Sy phit tiien ciia nginh cdng nghifp my pham hifn nay, yfu cau cic san phim tao ra khdng chi dip dng ve mgt hinh thdc ml cdn phai dim bio khi ning hap thu hogt chit tdi uu. Vi vgy, di cd thi lya chgn dugc mgt cdng thdc khdng chi dim bio ve mgt the chat, dg dn djnh mi cdn dip ung khi ning tham vl giii phdng hogt chit qua da mdt cich hifu qui, dem tgi sinh kha d\ing cao trong qui tiinh sd dyng. Trong nghifn cdu nly chung tdi di sd d^ing phuong phap khuech tin qua gel thgch de lua chgn cdng thdc tdi uu cho sin phim ciia minh vdi mong mudn thda min tifu chi "Thi chit dgp, hifu qua cao".

Kit qua khio sat cho thay, khi nang giii phdng hogt ehit d cdng thuc CT22 tdt ban so vdi cdng thdc CT12. Dieu niy cd the giai thich do sy phdi hgp cua Bo hgnh nhan (HLB 6 ) : Sip candelilla (HLB 14) tiieo ti If 5:1 cd gii trj HLB 7,3 day li gii tij HLB ly tudng cho cic chat tang thim (thudng tii 7 - 9) bdi sy can bing gida pha diu va nude. Do dd kem df ding hydrat hda ldp sung vl tham slu, tgo didu kifn thuln lgi cho mdc dd vl tdc dd hip tiiu hogt chat ting len ding ki. Trong khi do hf Vaselin (HLB 12): Parafin rin (HLB 9) theo ti If 4:3 cho gii tri HLB 10,7 cd phan than diu nhieu ban vi vgy kem dem Igi elm giac nhdn rit vl khd tham. Xet vd sinh dugc hgc, CT22 cho sinh khi dyng cao han so vdi CT12 bdi khi ning thim vl giii phdng hogt chat tdt qua da. Xet vf hinh tilde CT22 sd dyng hf t l dugc thifn nhien ban, him lugng sd dyng tiiip ban so vdi CT12.

Do dd CT22 dugc lya chon lim cdng thdc bio che cho sin phim.

Bdnh gid khd ndng khdng tia UVA: Mdt ti-ong nhihig ydu td ben ngoli inh hudng den qui tihih lio hda da chinh II inh ning mit tidi ml UVA va Tgp chf Y Dirgrc hgc - TVudng Dgi hgc Y Dugc Hui - S6 D^c bift 265

UVB li hai ngudn tic dgng chinh. Cic sin phim kem chdng ning hifn nay, da phin bio vf da khdi tic ddng tryc tidp ciia tia UV bing each hap thu (kem chdng ning hda hgc) ho$c phin xg (kem chdng ning vgt 1^) trudc khi tia niy Inh hudng den lan da gay ban dd chay ning. Tuy nhifn dd chi la bifn phip tgm tbdi, tiiyc td cho tiiiy ring tia UVA d budc sdng ldn ban cd khi ning di sau vao den ldp hg bi ciia lln da gay llo hda vi hinh thinh nip nhin bing cich tic dgng tryc tiep, ho|e giln tiep tgo ra cic gdc ty do phi buy cau true ldp trung bi din dfn hinh thinh nhihig nip nhin trfn da [6].

Ket qui khio sat eho thiy sin phim kem dudng da Quercetin cd khi ning ngin ngua tic hgi cua tia UVA rd rft

TAILI^U 1. Gilchrest BA, Krutmann J, "Skin aging", Springer-

Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, 2011, volume 2, chapter 2.PP15.

2. GregoiyS.Kelly,"Quercetin.Monogr^h",Alteraative Medicine Review, 2011, volume 16, schapter 2, pp.

172-194.

3 MairimRusso Serafini. et Bi,"UVA-UVB Photo protective Activity of Topical Formulations Containing Morinda citrifolia Extract", BioMed Research International, 2014,2 (1), pp. 3.

Khi ning ngin ngda lio hda da ciia Quercetm dugc tiie hifn qua 2 tie dgng: 1. Tryc tidp lim giim tic hgi ciia tia UV bing cich hap thu mgt phin ning lugng trudc khi tia nay Inh hudng din da 2. Trung hda cic gdc ty do sinh ra dudi tic dgng ciia tia UV vl mdt sd tic nhan khic. Dieu niy cho thay tinh bao vf da tic dgng mi sin pham mang Igi. Day li ca sd de khing djnh hifu qui vugt trgi khi dua sin phim ra thj trudng.

4. K t T LUAN

Da xiy dyng dugc cdng thuc vi quy tiinh bio che Kem dudng da Quercetin dgt cac chi tieu chat lugng de ra vi chdng minh hogt tinh khing tia UVA ml san phim dem Igi.

THAMKHAO

4. Catherine Anne O'neill. et al, "Tight Junctions Modulator^, US Patent AppUcation Publication, 2014, pp. 20.

5. Raymond C Rowe, Paul J Sheskey, Siaan C Owen, Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients Sixth edition. The Phaimaceudcal Press, 2009, iqi. 290- 292, 536-541.

6. The Intemational Agency fbr Research on Canca, S2mscreens, IntemadcHial Agency fiv Research on Cancer WHO, 2001, volume 5, chapter 2, R ) . 17-20.

266 Tgp chl Y Duvc hgc - Ttuirag figl h^c Y Dirgrc H u i - Sd D$c bift