The desire for better clothing and apparel resulted in the development of textile fiber production and textile manufacturing process. The textile manufacturing processes are highly demanded by the fashion segment of the global textile market. The textile manufacturing processes in the global textile industry produce textile yarn, fibres, fabric and finished products, including clothing.
Conclusion
SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE PRODUCTION (STeP) by OEKO-TEX® is a certification system for brands, retail companies and manufacturers in the textile chain to inform the public that they have carried out sustainable production processes. It provided the testing and certification system for chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries used in textile fiber processing.
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Introduction
In recent years, more importance has been given to quality, comfort and fit of the garment in the clothing industry. The fit of the garment used depends mainly on the elasticity of the seam. Stitch type, seam type, needle thread type and stitch density affect the fit of the garment.
Some of the manufacturers choose stitch grades, stitch density and sewing thread without considering their effect on the comfort of fitting the garment. The types of stitches and stitches are one of the most important elements in joining patterns and giving a garment a shape. Choosing a type of stitching or seam that is not suitable for the garment reduces the quality, comfort and fit of the garment.
The performance of a garment's seam depends on the structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and the strength, stretch, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. In this study it is planned to explain the importance of garment seam performance.
Stitch and seam types
- Stitch types
- Seam types
Appearance and performance of the seams depend on the stitch and seam types, stitch densities, sewing machine settings and quality of sewing threads. Needle thread is pulled back so that the braid is midway between surfaces of the material being sewn. Loops of the needle threads are passed through the fabric where they are looped with loop thread at the bottom.
Seam type SSa-2 is formed by placing two or more layers of material on top of each other and sealing them with one or more seams. Seam type LSa-1 is formed by overlapping two or more layers of material at a specified distance and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. Seam type BSa-1 is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the layer or layers of body material and securing the binding strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches.
Seam type FSc-1 is formed by turning and butting the turned edges of two layers of material and sewing with a row of stitches that run along and cover the turned edges of the material. Seam type EFa-1 is produced by turning the edge of the material and sewing the turned part to the body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
Stitch and seam parameters 1 Stitch density (SPI)
- Stitch width
- Seam allowance
- Stitch length
- Seam thickness
- Seam extensibility
- Seam strength
- Seam efficiency
Overlap Seam, Class 2—Flip Seam, Class 3—Bonded Seams, Class 4—Flat Seams, Class 5—Decorative/Decorative Seams, Class 6—Edge Finishing/Nearing, Class 7—Attachment of Separate Elements, Class 8—Single Layer Construction , Class 7—Attachment of separate elements and Class 8—Single layer construction [8]. The short stitch length will be packed into every inch of the stitch, creating a tighter stitch. In recent years, seam elasticity has become more important with the use of stretch fabrics in clothing.
Stretchability of the seamed fabric was defined as the difference in stitch length between the original stitch length S and the extended stitch length Slim. Seam stretch = (Slim –S) / S (2) where S is the original stitch length and Slim is the extended stitch length. The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material with which the seam will be joined.
This will enable the material to support its share of the forces arising from the intended end use of the sewn item. The performance of seams depends on the fabric coverage factor, fabric weight, thickness, tensile strength, fabric shrinkage along the length and width of the fabric, elasticity, bending stiffness, flexural stiffness and shear stiffness [15].
Factors affecting seam performance
- Sewing needle penetration force
- Sewing needle-related damage due to sewing in fabric
- Seam defects and damages .1 Seam defects
These are fabric construction (yarn construction, structure, density, etc.), chemical treatments of the fabric (softness, dyes, finishing, washing), sewing number, design and sewing machine settings [12]. Seam slip is defined as that which occurs when the threads in the fabric pull out of the seam at the edge or, alternatively, where the threads of a fabric begin to pull away from the stitching in a seam [12]. The seam allowance is defined as when two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of fabric revealing the thread in the gap.
Seam wrinkling is a wrinkled appearance along the seam, which affects the appearance of the garment. The test fabrics are sewn according to standard procedures and the seam appearance is compared to standard reference samples. Increasing the number of fabric layers leads to an increase in needle temperature.
With mechanical damage, the yarns of the fabric are broken or fragmented. The sewing thread selected for the garment should move freely through the eye of the selected sewing needle to ensure smooth passage while sewing.
Conclusion
It is crucial to choose the right size sewing needle for the right sewing machine, thread and weight of fabric. Choosing the correct size sewing needle is critical to the success of a quality stitch. The appropriate size of sewing needle should be selected according to the number of the thread and the weight of the fabric to prevent mechanical damage to the seam.
Seam slippage, seam tearing and seam puckering are important seam defects that affect the appearance of the garment. Seam defects are usually caused by incorrect choice of seam parameters and fabric properties in garment production. This chapter is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/ . by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any media, provided the original work is properly cited.
In: The 78th World Conference of the Textile Institute in conjunction with the 5th Textile Symposium of SEVE and SEPVE, Greece; 1997. The transfer of moisture from the clothing to the environment by diffusion, moisture removal, sorption and evaporation is controlled by the thickness and tightness of the fabric.
Intimate apparel
Intimate clothing is the most important clothing layer, as it acts as a person's second skin due to direct contact with the skin. The issues of comfort in intimate clothing are sensory, thermal, movement and aesthetic, all of which are interrelated. Since intimate clothing is the inner layer between the skin and outer clothing, its thermal comfort is very important.
On the other hand, the behavior of fabric is influenced by chemical and physical properties of its constituent fibers, fiber content, physical and mechanical properties of its constituent yarns, and the finishing treatments. Thus, major fiber manufacturers such as Nylstar, Invista and Lenzing have introduced different types of fibers such as Meryl Skinlife, Tactel, Tencel, etc., which are suitable for intimate wear. The purpose of this chapter is to introduce the latest developments in fibers used in the manufacture of intimate clothing products and their contribution to clothing comfort, which the clothing provides when the body does not restrict its movement and regulation mechanism of its own temperature.
What is comfort?
- Aesthetic comfort
- Thermal comfort
- Ease of movement comfort
- Sensorial comfort
Thus, intimate clothing is invisible to the public, but is considered "inconspicuous fashion" [8]. The main property of the clothing is to build a stable microclimate near the skin in order to maintain the thermoregulatory system of the body in different environments. Body cells, especially in organs and muscles, produce heat that is partially released into the environment.
Profuse sweat is produced in the body, which leads to the accumulation of a lot of moisture or a thin film on the skin due to heat dissipation [4]. Sweat generated on the skin can be transported from the skin surface to the outer surface of the fabric by fabric transport, where it evaporates to the environment and keeps the skin dry [5]. If the garment restricts movement, discomfort may occur due to the pressure exerted by the garment on the body, and the garment may fail [21].
Therefore, intimate clothing must be stretchy and elastic to provide the wearer with adequate fit and freedom of movement. Sensory comfort is the sensation of how the fabric feels when worn close to the skin.
Innovative fibers and comfort of intimate apparel
The fiber can be used in clothing close to the body, such as intimate clothing, as well as pantyhose, socks, activewear and swimwear [33]. The smooth surface of the TENCEL™ Intimate cellulose fibers also provides a soft touch on the skin. Sublime, from Nylstar's Meryl® line of products, quickly wicks sweat away from the skin on the outside of the fabric.
It is suggested that it should be worn next to the skin to keep the body dry [55]. Sensil® Body Fresh ensures that the garments do not have unpleasant odors thanks to the antibacterial additive embedded in the fiber [59]. The presence of inorganic micron particles in the polymer further increases the surface area and contributes to the cooling effect [65].
The use of Sensil® Heat in knitwear ensures a delay in heat transfer from the body to the exterior. It is claimed that the insulating activity is more effective when the fabric is used closer to the body [65].
Conclusion
It uses phase change materials (PCM) that absorb, store and release heat for optimal thermal comfort.