'/if^-'^^ Ti;- LIEU
VAI NET VE NGHE THUAT TRANG SUC DONG SON
B ^ G THI HUg
Ngbf tbuat trang site Ddng Son Dd ttang sue Ddng San la ddu tich ghi lai cugc chinh phye chat lifu, cdng nghd vd ehu nhdn cfta chftng dd budc mgt budc kha ddi tft flig thft cdng den nha sang tao nghf thugt. Dinh cao rye rd cfta nghf thuat trang sftc Ddng San la dd trang sue hdng ddng thau.
Ngudi Ddng Son di tu ky thii§t dftc, khdc, cham ndng, ttd thftng, udn gd, tgo nhdm vd tgo vgch...
vdi vai ttd thg thft cdng ldnh nghd cho ddn khi chft dfng vd thuin thyc ttong thiet kd kidu dang, hinh tugng nghf thudt, cdc do an ttang tri. Den mftc nay, cd thd ndi, hg
dd ddm duang vai ttd nhd sang tgo, thidt ke.
Mgt ddc thu cua dd ttang sftc Ddng Son Id ddi tugng sft dyng. Thdng thudng, dd trang sftc dirge thidt kd vd ddnh ttgn cho phai nu, nhung trong xa hgi Ddng San, dd tiang sue cdn ddnh cho thu ITnh bd Igc, chiln binh, thg san vd thdy cftng Shaman (thdy phu thfty). Bftc tugng ttdn cdn dao gdm Ddng Son cho thdy cd nam vd nft thdi dy ddu mang nhfing dd ttang sftc d?p.
Chdt lieu do trang sue Dong San Chit lifu dd trang sue Dong Son rdt phong phft vdi dd, gdm, xuang thu, nhuyen thi, thfty tinh, dd sa khoang, sdt, nhung ndi bat hon Id chdt lifu ddng.
Dd gdm Ddng Son dugc ddt ttong mgt hf thdng ciing nhu mgt sy phdt ttien chung va Hdn tuc, tft giai dogn vdn hda Pbftng Nguydn, giai dogn bit ddu thdi dai kim khi d Viet Nam, qua giai doan vdn hda Ddng Dau, tilp din giai dogn
NgM thuit trang siic B6ng Son chUa lung nMng gia tri rling Nft, (ac l i e cua vin Ma Viit. Trong bai niy, chang t i i l i cip vai nit v i nghi thuit trang sUc Bing I m trang tuang quin It nhlaa vil Trang Ilea va Champa, Si til gic l i nghi Hiuit, chiing ta ntln thiy ro hon nhUng tuong Ung v i hhac hiit eia nghi thuit traag IUC a cac nin vin hia aiy.
van hda Gd Mun vd cudi cimg Id giai doan Ddng Son. Dd gom Ddng Son cd ngudn goc phdt tridn tnrc tiep tu dd gdm cua cdc giai doan vdn hda trudc dd.
Dd ttang sftc dd dugc coi Id nguydn mdu cho chd tdc dd ttang sftc ddng sau nay, ngudi Ddng Son da ung xft tgo hinh quen thudc vd cd ky thuat chd tac thanh thyc tten chdt lieu dd, biit khai thac tinh uu vidt vd ttanh nhung hgn ehe cua chat lifu nay dl tgo ddng hgp ly. Chimg tdi cho rang ngudi Ddng Son da thfta hudng o phdn ky Ijch sft trudc, thdi dai dd dd (eft va mdi). Thd loai dd ttang sftc da phong phu nhu vdng deo tay, khuydn tai... va ldm nguydn mau cho trang sftc ddng d thdi ky dau.
Ben cgnh do ttang sue da, dd trang sftc thuy tinh bidn difn vdi mgt tu cdch khac. Ngudi Ddng Son chinh phye ky thudt cbl tdc thuy tinh tu nhidn, ddng thdi da nau, due khudn va cdc ky nghf Iam khudn dd trang sue thfty tinh nhdn tao.
Ky thuat chd tac thuy tinh nhdn tgo la thanh tyu mdi thudc nfta cudi cua vdn hda ndy.
Sftng, xuong, nanh vd vudt mdnh thft du dugc ngudi Vift cd coi la cd sy linh nghifm phu ttg, dd la nidm tin ma thudt thudng thdy ttong thd gidi CO dai, dua chat lifu lay tft manh tbu sang thdnh nhung vdt linh. Ngudi ed dai cho rang nhung vat ndy tidm In mdt sftc manh vd hinh ndo dd vd tham chi nd giup hg tranh tai hga va dem lai may mdn. Nhung vat Hnh nay da ttd thanh mft thft bua hf than, dugc ddi xft mdt
S6 3 7 6 1 Thang 10-20151 (oO
each tran ttgng nhdt thdng qua nhftng ttang tri cdng phu va cudi cftng, da nghiim nhien tiianh mgt dd trang sue vdi nhidu gia tri tft ^^^ thuc ddn ngi dung. Didu ndy dugc Ldvy Bruhl khang dinh: nhiing vgt linh ndy "cd gia tri ^^ ^^ trang sftc sau khi vdi tu cdch la cdc la bfta, timg mang f nghTa thin bi.. ."(1).
Chdt Hfu nay gdn vdi tin ngudng mgt edch mat thilt. Trang tti ttdn dd ttang sftc xuong, siing, nang thft khdng cau ky, ddi khi chi Id cdc khdc vgch, mang tinh chit huyin bi nhu mgt dang ngdn ngu sieu nhidn cfta ngudi nguydn thuy, nhung dd ttang sftc logi ndy cd ttang tri hoa vdn chidm sd lugng it, ngudi Vift cd sft dung nhftng Unh vat nay dd deo dan chide hay xau cbu§i.
Ngay nay chung ta bdt gap nhftng vd sd, oe hda thach bam tdn ttdn vdch nfti hay hang dgng cheo leo, dieu dd cho ta thdy sy Iftl xa cua biln cd. Ngudi Vift cd, ddc bift Id cu ddn biln, dd sft dyng vd sd, vd dc kha phft hgp cho chd tdc nhiing dd ttang sue mang dam tinh ty nhien ndy.
Chdt Hfu gd khd phd bidn ttong thd gidi co dgi, nhung-vif c cbl tac lai khd khdn bdi dyng cy chd tac ehua ed. Phai chdng, dd Id ldi gidi thich eho vifc tiiidu vdng dd ttang sftc gd d dd tiang sftc Ddng San. Chi cd vdi di vdt Id tdm ehe ngyc bdng gS (hd tam phien), nhimg nlu can eft vdo tgo hinh thi tam ehe ngyc nay khd cd thd coi Id dd trang sftc, nd mang tinh cdng nang sft dung nhidu hon Id trang sfte.
Phdi chdng, ngay tft luc phat hidn ky thugt luyen sdt, ngudi xua da xac dinh sit la mgt kim loai quy, ben cgnh vide dung sdt dd ehd tac ndng cy thi ngudi xua cdn sft dyng sdt dd cbl tac dd trang sftc.
Dd tiang sftc ddng cd mft thdnh ttm to Idn vd dugc ua chugng vdi nhidu thi loai nhu vdng deo tay, bdp tay, chdn, vdng dng gin nhgc, xa tich, ttdm cai, dao cdn ngan....Chit Hfu ndy phong phft vd tiid logi va sd lugng tiong kho tdng dd trang sfte Ddng Son. "Dd tiang sftc bdng ddng phdt triln dot biln, sd lugng vd kilu ddng rat phong phft. Vdng deo tay, deo tai, dac bidt ed vdng ong deo nhac" (2). Ngay tft khi ra ddi, dd
tiang sue ddng da mugn hinh cfta dd ttang sue dd ma cy thi Id vdng deo tay chdng hgn. Sau ndy, ngudi Ddng Son chinh phye ddng vd chat lifu d6ng dd ehilm uu tiid ttong chd tdc dd ttang sftc bdi nhilu tinh uu vift cua nd, dong Id kim logi quy vd ngudi co dgi coi Id an chfta tinh thidng.
Mgt sd tgo ddng cua do trang sue Ddng San Co thd ndi, tgo ddng do ttang sftc ddng Id dgi difn cho tgo dang dd trang sue Ddng Son vdi mgt sd till loai nhu: vdng tay ddng (vdng cd tay, vdng bdp tay, vdng gdn nhgc chudng), tram cai diu, khuydn tai, nhdn va khda thdt lung...
Vdng deo tay cd thilt difn hinh ttdn Id logi vdng cd sy kd thfta nhiing chide vdng dd, "ve mdt thim my, cd thi vdng dng Ddng Son Id mft budc phat tridn so vdi logi hinh vdng dd vd vdng ddng khdc" (3). Sau dd, ngudi Ddng Son da chft dfng sdng tgo dfc lap vdi chile vdng deo tay ddng thilt difn binh tam gidc can. Tft ddy, hdng logt mlu mdi dugc ra ddi nhu vdng tay thidt difn hinh hdn nguyft, hinh Idng mdng, ndn cut...
Mdt di vat quan ttgng ttong nghf thugt trang sftc Ddng Son la nhiing chile nhgc chudng dong deo tren vdng dng deo ehan, tay, bdp tay vd cdi d xa tich ngang thdt lung. Tao ddng chtmg cfta nhftng chide nhgc ddng deo tten vdng dng thufc logi chdp ddi, dugc xd ranh d than, boa van da dang, cd khi la nhihig hhih hinh hgc, hinh bdng lua duge due ndi. Cftng nhu doi vdi khuyen tai va cdc vdng deo tay khdc, cdch deo vong dng cd nhgc ddng da phdn dnh phdn ndo cdch deo logi nhgc cy ndy ciia ngudi duang thdi. Chftng tdi can eft ttdn nhitag hinh vd d tt6ng dong dd dl xuit mft hudng suy nghi nfta la vide deo nhgc dong cfta ngudi Ddng Son cd lidn quan ddn tam linh.
Khuydn tai ddng cd ban vdng rfng, d?t, thidt difn ngang hinh chft nhdt. Nhiing mdu cdn lai cho thiy binh ddng nguydn v?n cfta chftng gidng nhu hinh chu nhgt nhd ra. Bdn mdt cfta khuyen tai lgi dugc ttang tri nhidu boa vdn hinh rang cua, xen ke hoa vdn cdc dudng ggch chdo song song vdi nhau, chung khdng ddu nhau vd df sdu, tgo ndn cdi duyen cho bd m$t.
Rfi|S6 376 EfiiTh^ng 10-2015
Nhan gdn nhac ddng la loai trang sure ^ bidt ma sau ndy it gdp, nhin gdn nhgc cd tao ddng binh try ttdn, rong giita, deo vao eac ngdn tay, trdn thdn cd gin 2 nhgc ddng logi nhd, nhin khdi quit thi chiec nhdn nay la chide vdng dng dugc thu nhd. Trang tri chide nhdn khdng edu ky, hai ddi hoa vdn bdng Ifta dm liy vdng nhin, dudng diem cudn thimg.
Xd tich Id dd ttang sue dge ddo cfta ngudi
\^?t cd, ddnh cho ngudi d ting Idp ttdn. Xd tich cd cdu tgo gdn gidng hinh hop chft nhat, ben trong r§ng, cd mft quai hinh ehu U. CJ trdn dinh xa tich vd hai quai d hai bdn cd deo nhgc ddng.
Mgt xd tich cd trang tri cham khdc hoa van hinh bdng Ifta theo dudng vidn chu nhdt.
Tram cai diu Id nhiing mdnh ddng dugc dftc det, cd tidt difn tam gidc hay Itinh thang.
Thudng, nhiing chide tram eai tde mang hinh cong d mft ddu, thdn tram lgi cd hai nhdnh flidng de cai vao tdc.
Khda thdt lung Lang Cd gdm 2 phiin phdng dugc ndi vdi nhau bdi hai cdp mdc. Cde bdn ddng binh chu nhat, dugc due thiing nhieu ehd theo hinh hoa vdn nhu xody, vgch ngdn. Trdn mdi bdn dong cd 4 hinb riia dftc ndi.
Mgt sd hoa vdn tieu bieu tren do trang sire Dong San
Phan Idn la hoa van hinh hgc, ttang tri theo dai vdi nhiing mdtip hoa vdn ky ha tidu hidu nhu dudng kd thdng, rang cua, gde nhgn, chft V, vach ngdn, hoa van ndt vgch, dudng ttdn cd cham gifta, hinh thoi, tam gidc, chu nh^t, hoa vdn hinh bdng lua vd cudn thiing... Nhfing hoa vdn nay phft khdp dd ttang sftc Ddng San, cho chung ta mft itiian dinh: "Ngudi Ddng Son da biit khdc kd nhiing hinh ky ha, nhfing hinb chim, hinh thft vd cdnh sinh boat hdi he cfta con ngudi ttdn cac dd gom, cdc ttdng ddng, thap ddng... phdn anh cufc sdng hidn thyc phong phu, radt ndn van muib rye rd vd mdt tiinh dg thdm my cao" (4).
Nliin sang ngbe thu^t trang sue IVung Hoa va Cliampa
Cd thi bdng cdi nhin Uch dgi dl hidu sa Iugc qua trinh phdt tridn va dae thft nghf thugt trang
sue Tnmg hoa, chftng tdi trinh bdy theo Heh dgi.
Thdi Tam hodng Ngu de: cae dd ttang sftc xuong vd nanh thu nhu vgt lidn lac giua cac bg lge vd ngudi deo nd Id cdc til trudng vd thdy phap, nhitag nhan vat cd uy quydn ttong cdng ddng. Thdi Thuong An su dyng gidp cdt vdn khi td Id, do ttang sftc kim logi dd khdc hinh hoa vdn khd ty my nhu tram eai dau khai quat d An Duong, Ha Nam.
Thdi Xudn Thu - Chidn Qude: phdt tridn khd manh ve do ttang sftc bdng nggc, da, sa khodng hay ngd voi khdc. Nhidu dd trang sftc da ttd thdnh vat khdng the thidu dugc trong giao td xd hfi. Chftng khdng chi Id ttang sftc ma nhidm vy ehinh la phd didn uy lyc efta cac vi vuong diing diu tieu qudc. Cdc chidn binh deo dd trang sftc bdng ddng. Quan lai da sft dung bai khdc pham ham quan bang ddng khdm nggc nhu di vdt bdi ddng khdm nggc, hoa van timg thach thao thidt. Thdi nay, ky thugt chd tdc dd trang sftc nggc va dd quy theo Id Idi kim hodn da dgt din tinh xdo, dd nggc va ddng thau phat tridn. Mdt trong nhftng dgi bidu dd ttang sue tinh xdo thdi nay la nhftng di vdt dugc tim thay d khu lang md Hodc Khu Bfnh.
Thdi Dudng - Tdng.- mang ddu In Phdt giao, the hidn ttdn chdt lidu quy. Id nhftng mdn dd dugc quy tdc thdi Dudng ua chudng. Bdn canh kim loai quy Id nggc dd vd nggc ttai diem xuyIn, dd ttang sftc thdi Dudng dd ddt mft ndn mdng xa boa cho nghf thuat ttang sftc Trung Hoa. Den ddi Tdng, nghd thuat nay edn xa hoa hon nua vd sy xa hoa nay keo ddi mai sau tdi cudi ddi Thanh.
Thdi Minh: khuc chiit han vdi tgo hinh chdc khde va rd net, hoa van don gidn bon, linh thft dugc sft dyng nhidu, ed tinh ttang tti hda cao vd khde xa vdi thyc te. Ddc biet, dd binh khi nhd dugc coi la dd trang sftc cd sy dyng cdng edng phu, khdm nggc quy, chau bdu, tham chi td diem thdm cd bua chft de dep va thidng hon.
Thdi Thanh; mdtip trang tri Id cdc hidu tugng dgng chft xen thyc vdt, may, nude, lua.
S6376B1 Thang 10-2015ifil
hoa vdn thyc vat vd linh thu. Nhidu hogt cdnh xuit bifn ttdn dd trang sftc, chftng nhu nhftng bftc tranh thu nhd mang ngi dung d cae tich truyfn cd nhu CSxe ng^a Tdn, Khitffng Tit Nha ddnh Thdn Cdng Bdo, Chiiu Qudn cdng Ho. Bdt md tiphi...
Nghe thuat trang sftc Tnmg Hoa cd mgt lich sft lau ddi, cd nhftng flidnh tyu ldn ttong tao hinh vdi nhftng dde thft nghf thugt mang dgm ddu an d mdi thdi ky lich sft.
Tuy tdn tai ttong mgt giai doan kha ngdn nhung dl chi Champa xudt hifn tiong Heh sft nghf thudt nhdn logi vdi nhung thanh tyu ddng kham phue, tft nghf thu^t tgo hinh din nghf thudt bieu dien, am nhac vd thi ca... Nghf thu§t trang sftc Champa cd thd dugc nhin nhgn thdng qua ttang sftc ttdn tugng cd.
Trang sftc ttdn tugng Id sy phdng chilu cfta hifn thuc xa hgi, nd bat nguon tft eai cd thye, dau ring nd cd nhung thang hoa cua ngh? thugt va nidm sftng bdi. Cdch tidp cgn dd, tuy ring khdng ddy du, nhung cung gdp phin giup chiing ta ndm so luge v l tu duy tgo hinh dd trang sftc Champa. Trdn cdc bftc A'^M- thdn Laksmi a Trd Kif u bay bftc VS nit ca mua (My Son), Nii thdn Sarasvati, Than Siva (Thap Mdm) diu cd edeh trang sue tuong ty nhau, cho thdy trang sftc cfta ngudi Champa gom hoa tai, vdng deo cd, vdng deo bap tay vd vdng deo cd tay, dugc lam bdng hgt xdu chuSi, rieng vdng deo bdp tay cd boa van vdn xodn, hoa tai Id hat ldn, cd tgo hinh theo lidn kit binh nhdi quat. Kdt cdu chuSi hgt d dd ttang sfte Champa dudng nhu la kit cdu chft dgo va ta bdt ggp kit cdu nay d nhitag vdng chuoi dc xuydn day d dd trang sue thdi tiln sft vd vdng chuoi hgt ddng d dd ttang sue Ddng Son. Dilu ndy ggi ldn cdu hdi: phai chdng ddy Id mft trudng hgp ddng quy vdn hda?
Nhu vdy, d nghe thuft ttang sftc Ddng Son, gid tri nghf thuft dugc nhgn difn d ky thuat, each tao dang, hoa van trang tri vd cdch thftc sft dyng chdt lifu. Chit Hfu dugc khai thac trift dl, sft dyng vdi nhilu myc dich vd
chftng ddu dugc chd tdc bdng nhitag ky thudt phft hgp dd dem den hifu qud thdm my cho dd ttang sftc. Trong nhilu chat lieu dugc chd tdc thdnh d6 trang sfte thi dd trang sue ddng vugt tif i ban ea. Nhftng di vat tiang sftc ddng cdn Iuu den ngay nay qud Id nhitag thdnh tyu dang kham phye. Chftng ta nhin thdy mgt con dudng kd thua khi ngudi Ddng Son di tft chi tde do ttang sue dd (deo ggt) ddn chi tdc do trang sftc ddng (dftc, ngugi). Dd trang sftc ddng k l thfta dd ttang sftc dd bdt ddu tft tao ddng, den khi chu nhan cbinh phue thuin thyc chit lifu ddng cho vifc chd tdc dd trang sftc dong, hg di tidp nhftng bude di tu tin hon ttong thilt kd ddng, kidu mdi, hoa vdn ttang tri va nhidu ky thudt, edng nghf dugc sft dung hieu qud.
Ndm ttong vftng giao thoa vdi hai nen nghf thuat trang sftc kha Idn tft hai phia, phia bdc Id Tnmg Hoa, phia nam la Champa, nhung nghf thudt trang sftc Ddng Son it chiu anh hudng tu phia Tnmg Hoa song igi cd giao thoa it nhidu vdi nghf thudt trang sftc Champa, dac bift Id d nhitag dd tiang sftc chat lifu ddng. Su giao thoa do tgo CO sd ly lugn va thyc tien cho phep chftng ta gdn vdi kit lugn vk tinh thudn khilt Ddng Nam A ttong vdn hda Ddng Son, ndn vdn hda vfta gidu bdn sdc, vfta giao thoa vd tilp biln.
Thdm my Ddng San ndi chung vd nghf thu^t tiang sftc Ddng San ndi ridng dat ddn nhitag thanh tyu md khdng ed sy lap lai nao ttong Uch sft, nd la cai moc nghe thugt diu tien ttong dam dai ngh? thuft cua ngudi Vift •
D.T.H
1. L6vy Bruhl, Kinh nghipm thdn bi vd biiu tirpng d ngirdi ngi^in th^, Nxb Thi gim. Ha Ngi, 2008, tr.87.
2. Nguyin Duy Hinh, Vdn minh Lge Viil. Nxb Vdn hoa Thong tin, Hk Ngi, 2004, tr.314.
3. Trinh Sinh v4 Nguyin VSn Huy€n, Trang site cua ngirdi Vipt ci, Nxb Vdn hda Ddn tpc. Ha N$i, 2001, tr.ll5.
4. Vifn My thu^t, Bdn rgp hpa tiit my thupi ci Vipt Nam, Nxb ^^ thupt, Hk N^i, 2000, tr.7.