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COUNTRY HOTEL

G W Y N N E SEATH

C O M P A C T and e r e c t in khaki bush-shirt and shorts, veld-shoed feet planted squarely on t h e sidewalk, legs neatly socked, fists on hips, dark sun-glasses u n d e r his w i d e - b r i m m e d hat, H a m m o n d w a t c h e d a length of b r o w n paper scuttle towards h i m across t h e village s t r e e t in t h e h o t w i n d . H e raised his head to look u p at t h e big letters that ran along the t o p of the hotel to spell o u t its n a m e — N e w K a r r o o . His eyes fell on a mass of heavily laden bougainvillia branches g r o w i n g above t h e d o o r of t h e n o n - E u r o p e a n bar, magenta p o i n t e d petals blazing in t h e sun.

Wonderful day on the farms and w i l d stretches w h e r e t h e r e w e r e n ' t any sticky streets o r bars and shops ; H a m m o n d imagined his forests, fresh and inviting in any w e a t h e r . He could see Hans a m o n g t h e C o l o u r e d m e n in t h e yard waiting for t h e bar t o o p e n . His assistant c a r r i e d his spare body u p r i g h t , w o r n dungarees pulled u p tight u n d e r t h e s h o r t coat, ribbon!ess felt hat hooding his head. T h e r e was s o m e t h i n g restful and serene a b o u t Hans' dark big-featured face w i t h its aquiline nose and high cheek b o n e s . And, H a m m o n d t h o u g h t , you c o u l d n ' t w a n t anyone b e t t e r for t h e w o r k .

H a m m o n d held his hat against t h e w i n d as he studied the m e n . In t h e h o t sun, in t h e eddying dust, they w a i t e d ; it seemed e n o r m o u s patience to h i m ! T h e y r e m i n d e d h i m of a dark cloud of bees, clustering and focussing r o u n d t h e h i v e — t h e i r s o u r c e of h o p e and s t r e n g t h . H a m m o n d was aware of a certain muteness about these masculine b u t unassertive m e n ; he sensed a kind of hush hovering over the patient g r o u p . H e found t h e i r colours and sizes as varied and diverse as t h e veld plants and trees that w e r e his c o n c e r n . He caught t h e eye of a little w e e d of a m a n in t h e t h r o n g — b r i m of felt hat wide over his lined face, grey trousers cascading over t h e t u r n e d - u p toes of his veld-shoes, his old jacket t o o big for h i m . A squat, yellow-faced m a n l u r c h e d close to H a m m o n d , already d r u n k , laugh wrinkles curving deeply from eyes into cheeks, he looked a r o u n d delightedly for s o m e o n e to share his t e m p o r a r y w o n d e r and f o r t u n e , m o v i n g his head happily to and fro.

Looking at t h e w a t c h on his thick w r i s t , H a m m o n d t u r n e d towards t h e h o t e l e n t r a n c e ; t h e r e was t i m e for a cup of tea w h i l e Hans visited t h e bar, and they could b e at t h e reserve

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by sunset. H e stepped over t h e c e m e n t stoep into t h e hall.

As he reached to hang his hat o n a h o o k by t h e d o o r , h e heard a voice, feminine b u t harsh and s t r i d e n t , say: " G o o d m o r n i n g , M r . H a m m o n d ! " A middle-aged w o m a n , t h i c k arms b a r e , blond hair b o b b e d and frizzed r o u n d h e r t h i n face, came t o - wards h i m , smiling; she s c r e w e d u p h e r little b l u e eyes and r u b b e d h e r cheek w i t h t h e back of a hand.

" A n d h o w is M r . H a m m o n d ? " She looked up at h i m , head tilted and m o u t h p u r s e d .

He angled off his glasses: " V e r y w e l l , M r s . B e s t e r . " His boyish face p e e r e d d o w n o n h e r .

" A n d h o w is M r . H a m m o n d ' s w o r k g o i n g ? " She shot h e r lace forward, eyebrows skipping u p .

" A l l right, t h a n k s . " H a m m o n d shifted a b o u t , stowing his spectacles in t h e i r case. " O n t h e way t o a n e w r e s e r v e — B o k k i e s v e l d . "

" W o u l d M r . H a m m o n d like s o m e t e a ? " M r s . Bester twisted h e r n e c k r o u n d t o w a r d h i m as h e strolled in t h e d i r e c t i o n of t h e lounge.

" Y e s , if you p l e a s e ! " H e t u r n e d to glance back at h e r ; she t r o t t e d away, h e r hands held d o w n l i m p before h e r , c o r s e t t e d body rigid as she w e n t .

H a m m o n d could m a k e o u t , lying in t h e d i m light u n d e r t h e stairway, piles of veld-flowers, scattered lush and fresh: great o p e n r i p e p r o teas, pink- and black-tipped and feathery, t h e i r long leaves and petals p o i n t i n g , enfolding; branches of wild mountain " g a r d e n i a , " their fleshy leaves, r o u n d e d and wax- like and shaded t h r o u g h greens and yellows to peach-pink and c r e a m , climbing to form spiralled leaf-blossoms. Mentally he n o t e d t h e i r scientific n a m e s .

N o o n e else was in t h e b r i g h t drinking-lounge w h e r e H a m m o n d arranged himself in o n e of t h e c h r o m i u m - p i p e d chairs at a squat table near t h e d o o r . H e could see t h r o u g h large steel w i n d o w s into t h e yard w h e r e visitors' cars stood in a r o w nosing t h e h o t e l - front, t h e G o v e r n m e n t station-wagon—packed w i t h H a m m o n d ' s e q u i p m e n t — a m o n g t h e m . T h e little r o o m was filled w i t h matching tables and chairs, fitted closely t o g e t h e r ; H a m m o n d s h u d d e r e d as h e felt its cold clean nakedness. W h e n h e consciously listened for it, h e could hear t h e h u m of t h e Coloured m e n ' s p r e s e n c e o n t h e o t h e r side of t h e y a r d ; it was like t h e doves calling—you h e a r d i t w h e n you w a n t e d t o !

A tall b l u e y - w h i t e cadaverous young m a n b r o u g h t t h e tea

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quietly—vacant face dipping over the table, to disappear as silently as he had c o m e .

M r s . Bester came into t h e r o o m . She held a b u n c h of heath in h e r hand, its tiny-leaved sprays tufted w i t h tightly-packed crinkly h e l i o t r o p e flowers; cocking h e r head coyly and pursing h e r lips p r o p r i e t o r i a l l y , smug comfortable wrinkles w r e a t h e d her face. In his m i n d H a m m o n d automatically classified t h e heath.

" Y o u r flowers are very beautiful, M r s . B e s t e r . " H e t h o u g h t of t h e m g r o w i n g in t h e i r wild haunts, and n o w to be stripped calculatingly and arranged to d e c o r a t e t h e h o t e l ' s principal r o o m s .

Looking up at h e r , he p u t his fingers t h r o u g h his wavy b r o w n hair, hand lingering at t h e back of his n e c k : " D i d you get t h e m from t h e c o u n t r y r o u n d ? "

M r s . Bester stood e r e c t beside h i m : " E a r l y this m o r n i n g 1 was o u t . T h e flowers c o m e from t h e farms of f r i e n d s . "

W i t h n a r r o w e d eyes and tightened m o u t h , she thrust forward her l o w e r jaw and n o d d e d her head slowly, saying: " T o - d a y is such a busy day for us . . . M r . H a m m o n d w o u l d be surprized t o k n o w what a big trade w e do on a Saturday. . . . And my husband has gone to t o w n . . . I m u s t see to e v e r y t h i n g ! "

She strolled to t h e w i n d o w and p e e r e d at t h e s t r e e t .

H a m m o n d sipped his tea. H e n o t e d that t h e stir of the m e n waiting in t h e yard had shifted inside to the bar.

Presently M r s . Bester came towards h i m again, hugging t h e heath to h e r chest.

H a m m o n d said, his head set sideways, blue eyes t w i n k l i n g , b r o w s raised questioningly: " I s t h e r e a limit to t h e a m o u n t of alcohol you can sell to t h e C o l o u r e d p e o p l e ? "

As she instinctively b l u r t e d " O h , n o ! " , H a m m o n d was aware that she felt u n c e r t a i n ; h e r head moved from side to side, searching, r e l u c t a n t .

He fixed h e r w i t h clear blue eyes, lips pressed t o g e t h e r h a r d :

" C a n ' t you refuse to serve t h e m if you feel t h e y ' v e had t o o m u c h to d r i n k ? "

As Mrs. Bester hesitated to answer h i m , h e r face pleading, placating, he p u r s u e d h e r : " D o n ' t you ever have any t r o u b l e arising from d r u n k e n n e s s ? "

M r s . Bester b e n t l o w , p r o p p i n g her fists on t h e table, to face him squarely. T h e heath j u t t e d upwards from o n e hand and trailed over t h e table as she fixed amused eyes on him and said,

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emphasizing each w o r d w i t h a little j e r k of the h e a d : " T h a t ' s t h e p o l i c e ' s c o n c e r n — n o t o u r s . "

Silence welled up b e t w e e n t h e m .

Mrs. Bester swayed h e r body a r o u n d from the little table towards the d o o r .

W i t h eyebrows lifted and t r o u b l e d lines d e e p across his b r o w , H a m m o n d g r u n t e d and looked d o w n in his lap.

T h e pale bar-attendant stole into t h e r o o m , his e m p t y face lit at last by interest. H e spoke breathy Afrikaans phrases in a low t o n e to Mrs. Bester. T h e hotel p r o p r i e t r e s s stood listening, eyes slit, m o u t h rigid, body tense. W n e n t h e bar- man finished she made a spurt t h r o u g h the d o o r to d r o p t h e heath o n t o the o t h e r flowers in t h e hall and vanish—as if h u r l e d — towards the bar. H a m m o n d could hear her loud decisive steps.

H e t h o u g h t t h e l o w d r o n e from t h e bar seemed to m o u n t to an uneven roar.

T h e r e w e r e steps again in the hall, and the sudden w h i r r i n g sound of a t e l e p h o n e crank. After a pause, M r s . Bester's v o i c e — t h e Afrikaans syllables concise and rasping—came harsh, d e m a n d i n g , e m p h a t i c , high t h r o u g h t h e air, and t h e sound of t h e receiver slamming on its h o o k . T h e n h e r steps struck t h e floor again.

T h e teapot e m p t y , H a m m o n d rose. H e strode t h r o u g h t h e hall and o u t t h e e n t r a n c e , hands clasped behind h i m , to stand at t h e edge of t h e c e m e n t s t o e p . A g r o u p of C o l o u r e d w o m e n , dark and h u m b l e , their wisps of children following t h e m lightly, passed along t h e s t r e e t in front of t h e little houses and gated yards opposite. H a m m o n d was conscious of a lull in t h e bar.

A slight C o l o u r e d boy came d o w n the street, dressed in t h e fresh khaki uniform and h e l m e t of a policeman. H a m m o n d n o t i c e d h o w t h e polished leather of his b e l t sparkled in the sun, shining handcuffs s t r e t c h e d and linked along its surface. T h e skin of t h e b o y ' s face was b r o n z e and satin-smooth, and, clothed in his uniform, he walked w i t h a sure d i r e c t step towards t h e d o o r of t h e n o n - E u r o p e a n bar and e n t e r e d it. Listening, H a m m o n d n o t i c e d t h e sound inside d r o p , and after a pause, r e s u m e its usual h u m . T h e mild young policeman came o u t of t h e bar, hands c l u t c h i n g his p r i s o n e r . H a m m o n d recognized t h e happy d r u n k e n man of an earlier h o u r , yellow face n o w sagging and exhausted, t o t t e r i n g crazily from side to side—head lolling jerkily. T h e uniformed boy made his way carefully, guiding and leading his charge across the yard to t h e sidewalk and finally

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the street, where they moved along to disappear out of sight.

Hammond watched the rumpled piece of refuse paper still drifting in the empty yard. Mrs. Bester came out onto the stoep, rubbing her hands together, satisfaction shining from her face. A large powerful dust-covered American car roared into the yard and stopped level with the stoep. From behind the wheel a heavy-set man climbed, loosely but comfortably dressed; his assured heavy eyes glanced appraisingly at Hammond and Mrs. Bester whom he greeted casually as he walked past them along the stoep to vanish through the door of the European bar.

Some Coloured men lingered in the yard; Hammond saw Hans, lean face hollowed with a grin as he listened to words of the little big-jacketed man who sauntered with him towards the Government van. When the two slight men crossed oppo- site the hotel's entrance they acknowledged Hammond's glance and greeting and saluted warmly—each raising the fingers of a hand towards his hat. The piece of brown paper, Hammond noticed, was caught under the farmer's car, one of its ends wedged beneath the tyre. But now he saw that the wind was tugging at it slowly to bring it finally swirling in great slow circles above them.

Suddenly Hammond felt a violent urge pressing, impelling him to hasten away. Turning back into the hall for his hat, he found himself facing Mrs. Bester, the upright bars of the grilled-in office between them.

The proprietress stood behind the grid, folded arms snug over thick body, smile wrinkles carved around the upward- curling corners of her mouth. She spoke in a grating low tone:

"Is Mr. Hammond now off?"

He stood poised to fly, hat in his hand. "Yes, Mrs. Bester.

Good morning."

Putting on his hat he quickly crossed the stoep and almost

ran as he approached the car. Sliding behind the wheel and

adjusting his glasses, Hammond smiled at Hans sitting beside

him. He backed the station-wagon into the street and, pointing

its nose towards the spreading country, pressed his foot on the

accelerator. His eye roved across the veld, and he marked

a little umbrella-shaped ghwarrie tree on a rise, etched and

crooked against the sky. "Euclea undulata," he murmured

happily, putting the car into overdrive as they sped between

stretches of scrub-covered veld.

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