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EXPLORING A BUSINESS MODEL FOR A SUSTAINABLE

STINGRAY LEATHER INDUSTRY IN REMBANG

IWAN FAJ AR PAHLAWAN

GRADUATE SCHOOL

BOGOR AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY BOGOR

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DECLARATION

I hereby declare that the thesis titled Exploring a Business Model for a Sustainable Stingray Leather Industry in Rembang is true of my work with the direction of the supervisor commission and has not been submitted in any form to any university. Resources, originating or quoted from published and unpublished works published from other authors, have been mentioned in the text and listed in the Bibliography at the end of this thesis.

I hereby assign the copyright of my paper to the Bogor Agricultural University (IPB).

Bogor, August 2015

Iwan Fajar Pahlawan

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SUMMARY

IWAN FAJAR PAHLAWAN. Exploring a Business Model for a Sustainable Stingray Leather Industry in Rembang. Supervised by SUKARDI and YANDRA ARKEMAN.

Rembang is rich in marine fishing resources. As the largest marine fishing producers, Rembang has the potential to develop the stingray leather industry. This research attempts to explore a business model that can support the stingray leather industry and its sustainability. Developing a suitable business model is needed for the emerging Rembang stingray leather industry in order to support its sustainability by creating, delivering and adding value. The research looks to answer following questions: (1) What is the nature of the stingray leather industry in Rembang? (2) What is the current business model applied to the Rembang stingray leather industry? (3) What are the barriers in applying this business model? (4) What kind of business model can support the sustainability of the Rembang stingray leather industry? The research used frameworks of SWOT analysis, Porter’s five forces analysis and Business Model Canvas analysis to explore the stingray leather industry and the business within it.

The research was conducted in Rembang. The research design is an exploratory study with qualitative approach. The research used a purposive sampling with a snowball sampling techniques to invite respondents. The techniques led to five respondents who have knowledge and experiences in the Rembang stingray leather Industry. The respondents are stingray leather entrepreneur, government officials, researcher and stingray skins supplier. The data collection consists of literature/document review, observation and interview. Interviews were conducted in a semi-structured format using an interview protocols with an open-ended questions.

The stingray leather industry depends on several parties, such as governments, stingray skins providers and stingray leather goods manufacturers. The strengths of stingray leather industry in Rembang lies on its location, resources and the human resources capability. The weaknesses include lack of supporting industries, lack of human resources availability and weak business infrastructure. The industry does not free from threats that come from outside the region, such unfair trade in the Yogyakarta market and the penetration of big stingray leather ventures to obtain stingray skins in Rembang. However, Rembang has its customers segment that gradually improved, and the local government provides full support for the entrepreneurs to develop the industry. It is essential to develop the competitiveness of the industry with several advantages. The collaboration among stakeholders in Rembang stingray leather industry could strengthen the industry and encourage new entrepreneurs in the region to do the business.

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In addition, an innovative stingray leather business model will develop the stingray leather industry in Rembang.

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RINGKASAN

IWAN FAJAR PAHLAWAN. Eksplorasi Model Bisnis bagi Industri Kulit Ikan pari yang Berkelanjutan di Rembang. Dibimbing oleh SUKARDI dan YANDRA ARKEMAN.

Rembang merupakan kabupaten yang kaya akan sumber daya perikanan laut. Sebagai produsen perikanan laut terbesar, Rembang memiliki potensi untuk mengembangkan industri kulit ikan pari. Penelitian ini berusaha mengeksplorasi sebuah model bisnis yang dapat mendukung pengembangan industri kulit ikan pari dan keberlanjutannya. Mengembangkan sebuah model bisnis yang tepat diperlukan bagi industri kulit ikan pari di Rembang yang sedang menggeliat dalam rangka mendukung keberlanjutannya dengan menciptakan, memberikan dan menambahkan suatu nilai. Peneilitian ini berusaha menjawab pertanyaan-pertanyaan berikut: (1) Bagaimana gambaran industri kulit ikan pari di Rembang? (2) Model bisnis apa yang saat ini diterapkan oleh industry kulit ikan pari di Rembang? (3) Halangan apa saja yang dihadapi dalam penerapan model bisnis tersebut? (4) Model bisnis apa yang dapat mendukung keberlanjutan industry kulit ikan pari di Rembang? Penelitian ini menggunakan kerangka analisa SWOT, Porter’s five forces dan Bisnis Model Canvas dalam mengeksplorasi industri dan bisnis kulit ikan pari.

Penelitian ini berlokasi di Rembang. Penelitian ini didesain sebagai studi eksploratori dengan pendekatan kualitatif. Pemilihan contoh dilakukan secara

purposive dengan menggunakan teknik snowball untuk memperoleh responden. Lima responden diperoleh dimana yang bersangkutan memiliki pengetahuan dan pengalaman dalam industri kulit ikan pari di Rembang. Responden tersebut terdiri dari pengusaha kulit ikan pari, aparat pemerintahan, peneliti dan pemasok kulit ikan pari mentah. Pengumpulan data meliputi peninjauan literature/dokumen, observasi dan wawancara. Wawancara dilaksanakan secara semi-terstruktur menggunakan protokol wawancara dengan pertanyaan yang terbuka-tertutup.

Industry kulit ikan pari bergantung pada beberapa pihak, seperti pemerintah, penyedia kulit ikan pari mentah dan pembuat barang kulit ikan pari. Industry kulit ikan pari di Rembang memiliki kekuatan pada lokasi, sumber daya, dan kemampuan sumber daya manusia. Kelemahannya mencakup kurangnya industry pendukung dan ketersediaan sember daya manusia, serta infrastruktur bisnis yang lemah. Industry tersebut juga tidak lepas dari ancaman yang datang dari luar daerah, seperti perdagangan yang tidak sehat di Yogyakarta dan penetrasi perusahaan besar untuk memperoleh kulit ikan pari mentah. Akan tetapi, industry kulit ikan pari di Rembang memiliki segmen pelanggannya sendiri yang secara bertahap meningkat, dan pemerintah lokalnya mendukung penuh pengembangan para wirausaha dalam industri tersebut. Mengembangkan daya saing industri melalui beberapa keunggulan adalah penting. Kolaborasi diantara pemangku kepentingan dalam industri kulit ikan pari di Rembang dapat memperkuat industri dan mendorong wirausahawan baru di daerah tersebut untuk terlibat dalam bisnis kulit ikan pari.

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usaha yang berkelanjutan. Model bisnis untuk bisnis kulit ikan pari di Rembang harus fokus pada hubungan kerjasama. Hubungan kerjasama akan menciptakan keuntungan yang lebih baik bagi pelanggan dan lingkungan sekitar. Lebih dari itu, suatu model bisnis kulit ikan pari yang inovatif akan mengembangkan industri kulit ikan pari di Rembang.

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© Copyright of IPB, Year 2015

All Rights Reserved

It is prohibited to quote some or all of this paper without including or mentioning the source. Quoting is only for educational purposes, research, scientific writing, report writing, criticism, or reviewing an issue; and citations are not detrimental to the interests of IPB

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Thesis

as a requirement for the degree of Magister Sains

at

the Study Program of Agroindustrial Technology

EXPLORING A BUSINESS MODEL FOR A SUSTAINABLE

STINGRAY LEATHER INDUSTRY IN REMBANG

GRADUATE SCHOOL

BOGOR AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY BOGOR

2015

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Thesis Title : Exploring a Business Model for a Sustainable Stingray leather Industry in Rembang

Name : Iwan Fajar Pahlawan

NIM : F351137191

Approved by Supervisor Commission

Prof Dr Ir Sukardi, MM Head

Dr Ir Yandra Arkeman, M.Eng Member

Acknowledged by

Head of Graduate Program Agroindustrial Technology

Prof Dr Ir Machfud, MS

Dean of Graduate School

Dr Ir Dahrul Syah, MScAgr

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PREFACE

Praise and gratitude I pray to Allah subhanahu wa ta'ala for all His gifts so that this thesis is successfully completed. The topic in this research, which is conducted since June 2014, is business model innovation, with the title of Exploring a Business Model for a Sustainable Stingray Leather Industry in Rembang. This research was a research project to fulfil the requirement for obtaining a double degree master program from Bogor Agricultural University and the University of Adelaide.

I would like to thank Prof. Dr. Ir. Sukardi, MM, Dr. Ir. Yandra Arkeman, M.Eng and Prof. Noel Lindsay as supervisor who has provided me guidance and advice. I also would like to thank Prof. Dr-Ing. Ir. Suprihatin, as examiner, for all suggestions during the examination. In addition, the authors convey appreciation to Dr. Barry Elsey, Ms. Amina Omarova, all staffs of ECIC Adelaide University and all staffs of TIP IPB which has helped me during my study in Bogor and Adelaide. Thanks to Mr. Anshari Bukhari, Mr. Mujiono and Mr. Ramelan Subagyo who has provided supports for me to study in the master degree.

Expression of thanks is also extended to all fellows of Double Degree Master Program TIP IPB – MAIE Adelaide University for all sharing and caring throughout the study. Hopefully, this thesis will be useful.

Bogor, August 2015

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

LIST OF TABLES vi

LIST OF FIGURES vi

LIST OF APPENDICES vi

1 INTRODUCTION 1

Research Background 1

Research Questions 4

Research Objective 4

Research Benefits 4

Scope of the Research 5

2 LITERATURE REVIEW 6

Introduction 6

Stingray Leather Industry 7

Business Model 8

Sustainability Concept 9

Summary 10

3 METHOD 11

Introduction 11

Setting 11

Participants 11

Measurement Instruments 12

Procedure 12

Data Analysis 13

4 FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION 14

The Stingray Leather Industry in Rembang 14

Barriers in the Stingray Leather Business in Rembang 16 Analysis of the Stingray Leather Industry and Business in Rembang 16 A Business Model for the Stingray Leather Business in Rembang 27

5 CONCLUSION 29

Conclusion 29

Limitations 29

Implications 29

Futher Researches Direction 30

REFERENCES 31

APPENDIX 33

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LIST OF TABLES

Table 1. Marine fishing production in the Jawa Tengah Province 2 Table 2. Marine fishing production by species in the Rembang Regency 3

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1. Growth of leather goods export value (in million USD) 1

Figure 2. Stingray leather and leather products 2

Figure 3. Business model framwork (Osterwalder and Pigneur 2002) 8

Figure 4. Map of the Rembang Regency 14

Figure 5. Stingray leather value chain in Rembang 15

Figure 6. Porter’s five forces framework on the Rembang stingray leather

industry 23

Figure 7. The stingray leather business model in Rembang 24 Figure 8. A proposed business model for a sustainable stingray leather

business 28

LIST OF APPENDICES

Appendix 1. List of respondents 33

Appendix 2. Interview protocols on internal and external factors exploration 34 Appendix 3. Interview questions in industrial competitive advantages

exploration 35

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1

1

INTRODUCTION

Research Background

The leather industry is one of a number of well-developed industries in Indonesia, which has existed for a long time. There are a number of parties involved in the leather industry sector, such as raw hides/skins suppliers, chemical producers and suppliers, leather tanners, leather goods manufacturers and also leather and leather goods merchants. According to recent trade performance, the Indonesian Ministry of Trade recorded that there was a gradual rise in leather goods export values from 2009 to 2013. The export value stood at 178.4 million USD in 2009 and increased gradually to reach 338.1 million USD in 2013. In general, the export value experienced an upward trend of 16.81% and occupied 0.23% of Indonesia non-gas and oil export share in 2013 (see Figure 1).

Figure 1. Growth of leather goods export value (in million USD)

Indonesian leather tanneries have processed hides/skins from cow, sheep and goat. Furthermore, they differentiate the product by using other kinds of skins. They have processed several types of skin, such as crocodile, ostrich, reptiles, rabbit, frog, shark, tilapia, and stingray into good quality leather. Stingray leather, which is the focus of this research, is known for its beauty and durability. Stingray leather is made from the skin at the back of the stingray. The stingray skin is composed of little hard beads which look like pearls. Through a tanning process, the hard and stiff stingray skin is transformed into soft and unique stingray leather. There are several products that have been made from stingray leather. These include wallets, bags, purses, belts, and furniture (Figure 2). Stingray leather is traded based on its width which is measured across the centre of the crown. It is divided into 5 sizes, i.e. small (5-6 in.), medium (7-9 in.), large (10-12 in.), extra-large (13-14 in.) and double extra-extra-large (15 in. and up) (Roje leather 2015).

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2

Figure 2. Stingray leather and leather products

Rembang Regency is one of the regencies in Indonesia which has the potential for developing the stingray leather industry. Rembang, located on the North Coast of the Province of Jawa Tengah, covers an area of approximately 1,014 km2 with a 63.5 km long coastline. Rembang Regency is well-known as the largest producer of marine fishing products in the Province of Jawa Tengah with production exceeding 40,000 tonnes during 2009 to 2013 (see Table 1).

Table 1. Marine fishing production in Jawa Tengah Province (in tonnes)

No Description Year

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

1 City of Pekalongan 33,045 35,679 19,356 19,559.0 18,290.7

2 City of Semarang 175 336 568 856.7 505.0

3 City of Tegal 25,231 29,226 35,206 28,189.3 22,436.6 4 Regency of Batang 23,296 29,932 31,244 29,847.6 32,716.5 5 Regency of Brebes 2,504 5,975 7,967 4,442.5 2,522.9 6 Regency of Cilacap 14,667 4,833 19,921 22,963.1 18,121.7 7 Regency of Demak 1,904 1,758 3,134 3,749.7 2,436.2 8 Regency of Jepara 5,993 6,906 7,223 6,429.2 6,015.0 9 Regency of Kebumen 2,249 601 3,742 3,692.9 1,538.1 10 Regency of Kendal 1,531 1,550 1,835 2,031.8 1,811.0 11 Regency of Pati 31,132 38,717 44,041 47,576.4 32,170.9 12 Regency of Pekalongan 1,764 1,974 2,060 2,128.1 1,395.5 13 Regency of Pemalang 11,014 14,065 17,108 18,126.0 19,299.1

14 Regency of Purworejo 67 77 61 68.2 61.8

15 Regency of Rembang 40,449 40,567 56,731 64,941.7 63,797.7 16 Regency of Tegal 588 415 1,270 1,432.2 1,080.5

17 Regency of Wonogiri 24 25 55 58.7 68.1

Source: Statistics Indonesia of Jawa Tengah Province (2014).

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3 and finishing at 995.8 tonnes (see Table 2). In addition, the value of stingray production was more than 2.5 billion IDR in 2012. The volume of stingray caught indicates the availability of stingray skins for the stingray leather industry. In Rembang, stingray is caught for its meat and the skins are not needed and discarded as a waste. Thus, stingray leather is a by-product of stingray meat industry.

Table 2. Marine fishing production by species in Rembang Regency (in tonnes)

No Species Year

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

1 Layang 13,475.05 8,773.79 14,501.18 18,746.70 16,796.23 2 Tembang/Jui 5,718.30 5,168.37 5,203.01 513.14 5,062.52 3 Kembung 3,617.00 3,444.39 3,577.60 3,536.28 2,804.95 4 Demang/Swangi 682.42 1,325.38 3,381.16 2,142.60 3,913.44 5 Selar 3,668.43 3,225.44 3,014.02 3,237.19 3,825.86

Source: Statistics Indonesia of Rembang Regency (2014).

These facts show that there is an opportunity to develop the stingray leather industry in Rembang for domestic and international markets, as well as an encouragement for new entrepreneurs to start businesses in stingray leather. There are a few entrepreneurs in this type of business in Rembang. However, these are not well-developed. These require more effort to develop. The local government has sent representatives to be educated at the Academy of Leather Technology. The main purpose of this action was to gain knowledge in leather tanning technology and leather goods design and production, so that those participating could process stingray skins into leather goods. In addition, the local government initiated several actions to start the project to develop the Rembang stingray leather industry. A small-scale leather processing site was built to support the project. The local government collaborated with the Centre for Leather, Rubber and Plastics to conduct technology transfer training to develop human resource competencies in mastering the leather tanning technology. As a result, some entrepreneurs emerged and started their own stingray leather businesses.

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4

present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs. Economic, social and environmental principles need to underpin any development for it to be sustainable. However, addressing these three pillars of sustainability introduce potential complications to the original, simple definition of economic development. The objectives expressed are multidimensional, and raise the issue of how to balance goals and how to determine the success (Harris 2003).

This research attempts to explore a business model that can support the stingray leather industry and its sustainability. Developing a suitable business model is needed for the emerging Rembang stingray leather industry in order to support its sustainability by creating, delivering and adding value.

Research Questions

Based on this background context, the research emphasizes the formulation of a business model to support the sustainability of the Rembang stingray leather industry. The research looks to answer following questions.

1. What is the nature of the stingray leather industry in Rembang?

2. What is the current business model applied to the Rembang stingray leather industry?

3. What are the barriers in applying this business model?

4. What kind of business model can support the sustainability of the Rembang stingray leather industry?

Research Objective

This research aims to formulate a suitable business model for a sustainable stingray leather industry in Rembang by identifying relevant internal and external factors.

Research Benefits

The research is expected to provide the following benefits.

1. Identify a sustainable business model for stingray leather industry in Rembang.

2. Help people in understanding the business model and its innovation in a particular industry, which is stingray leather industry.

3. Encourage new entrepreneurs to use this information as a reference for establishing new stingray leather product businesses.

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5 Scope of the Research

The scope of this research consists of (1) analysing internal and external factors of the stingray leather industry in Rembang, (2) analysing the competitiveness of the industry, (3) analysing elements of the business model canvas in stingray leather businesses, (4) formulating a business model that can supports the sustainability of the stingray leather industry in Rembang.

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2

LITERATURE REVIEW

Introduction

The leather industry is one of the more promising industries in Indonesia. There are several parties involved in the leather industry sector, such as raw hides/skins providers, chemical producers and distributors, leather tanneries, leather goods manufacturers and also leather and leather goods sellers. According to the Indonesian Ministry of Trade, there are 10 commodities in Indonesia that have the potential in the global market, and one of them is leather and leather products commodity. In addition, the Indonesian Ministry of Industry has set the leather industry as one of the top priority industries to be developed.

The Indonesian leather industry has developed in terms of production and product diversification. Nowadays, Indonesian tanners can process not only cow hides but also unconventional skins, such as crocodile, snake, frog, fish, etc., in good quality. For fish skins, stingray skin is the most famous material that can be produced into a high-value product. Stingray leather is well-known for its strength, durability, and beauty. Stingray leather utilizes the back part of the stingray skin (Purnomo 2002). Stingray skin tanning is similar to the common tanning process. Tanning is a process that aims to bring about an irreversible stabilization of the skin substance which is prone to putrefaction. There are four types of tanning methods. These are vegetable tanning, mineral tanning, other tanning, and combination tanning methods. Vegetable tanning is a process that uses a tanning agent derived from bark, wood, fruit, leaves or roots. Mineral tanning may use chromium, aluminium or zirconium. Other tanning methods use aldehyde and/or oil. All tanning methods can be used in various combinations with one another and in different intensities to produce special leather properties. The selected tanning method generally determines the final leather character (BASF 1995). Leather tanners usually use vegetable tanning agents and chromium to tan skins/hides. These kinds of tanning agents result in specific tanned-skin colours (brown for vegetable tanning and blue for chromium tanning). Stingray leather is usually processed using the aldehyde tanning method because its pearl-like texture is more attractive in a “natural look”. Indonesian stingray leather and leather goods have reached and in Australia.

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7 It is important to develop new regions in order to improve the quality of life of the local people. The Rembang government has commenced developing the industry by improving the skills and knowledge of local people in the technological aspects of stingray leather processing. These efforts have encouraged some to start their own stingray leather businesses. They have mastered the technology and explored potential customer demand for stingray leather and leather goods. However, technology alone is not enough to ensure a

There is limited information regarding when exactly stingray leather should be tanned. Craftsmen and artisans in ancient Egypt valued stingray leather for its strength, durability and beauty. The ancient Egyptians used stingray leather for armour and decorative items as well as the Japanese where samurais would use the skins for the handles of their swords. In 18th century France, Louis XV had many items made from stingray leather; such as wig cases, snuff boxes, and sheaths. John Paul Cooper, the famous English artisan, had produced several items such as frames, vases, decorative boxes, and even candlesticks, which were covered by stingray leather (Tom Barrington 2012).

Stingray leather is acknowledged as exotic leather in the market. According to Ingram and Dixon (1994), the fish-based leather provides the basis for a large and profitable industry. The industry had turned into a multi-billion dollar business in 1989, when approximately 2-10 million skins of fish were used to produce leather. Grey et al. (2006) discovered that the import value of USA’s fish-based leather products reached USD$6 million annually. Stingray is one of the species’ that trades in the USA fish-based leather industry. Southeast Asia countries such as Thailand, Indonesia, and the Philippines dominate the export of stingrays to the USA. Thailand contributed 78% of the total export to the USA while Indonesia only 12%. Members of the genus Dasyatissp., Mobulidaesp. and

Rajidae sp. are usually traded and used for leather (Purnomo 2002; Grey et al. 2006).

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Business Model

There are a number of business model definitions. Balan-Vnuk (2014) summaries the business model as an architecture, a statement, a structure, an abstraction, a blue-print, a representation, a design, and a set. Osterwalder and Pigneur (2010) define a business model as the rationale of how an organization creates, delivers and retains value. In a simple word, a business model explains the operation of a venture (Magretta 2002) in establishing value (Zott et al. 2011) and achieving profits (Scott-Kemmis 2012). Osterwalder and Pigneur (2002) propose a business model framework that consists of four pillars: Product innovation, customer relationship, infrastructure operation, and financial aspects (Figure 3). These pillars express what a firm proposes, who it targets, how this can be realised, and how much can be earned by doing it.

Figure 3. Business model framework (Osterwalder and Pigneur 2002) A new business model can support the ownership and utility of existing products/technologies while considering environmental and social aspects. This means that a business model that aligns user incentives with the environmental impact of the utilization of resources can make existing products and technologies more sustainable (Teece 2010). According to Harper (2014), a sustainable business often focuses on the “value creation” side of the business which includes stakeholders, the environment and society.

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9 society/environment, and developing scale-up solutions. However, it seems that not all of the archetypes are suitable for all industries, since every industry has its unique characteristics. For instance, applying processing technology with renewable and natural resources cannot be fully implemented in the leather industry due to product quality issues. Nevertheless, all efforts for continuous improvement are essential to ensure venture sustainability over time and to maintain competitiveness.

Sustainability Concept

Sustainability is an important issue. According to Schumpeter (1936), as cited by Morris et al. (2005), value is created from unique combinations of resources that produce innovations, while transaction cost economics identifies transaction efficiency and boundary decisions as a value source. Positioning within the larger value network can be a critical factor in value creation. As part of its positioning, a firm must establish appropriate relationships with suppliers, partners, and customers. Stivers (1976) explains that sustainability was employed as early as the 1970s to describe the economy in equilibrium with basic ecological support systems. Sustainable development holds together concerns for the carrying capacity of natural systems with the social and economic challenges faced by humanity (Khan et al. 2013) and involves the three essential elements of sustainable development: economic, environmental and social. These goals expressed or implied are multidimensional, raising the issue of how to balance objectives and how to judge success or failure (Harris 2003).

Harris (2003) explains in detail these three elements. Economic aspects are defined as an economically sustainable system that must be able to produce goods and services on a continuing basis, to maintain manageable levels of government and external debt, and to avoid extreme sectoral imbalances which may damage agricultural or industrial production. Although environmental aspects assume that an environmentally sustainable system must maintain a stable resource base, there must be an avoidance of the over-exploitation of renewable resource systems or environmental sink functions, and the depletion of non-renewable resources to the extent that investment is made in adequate substitutes. This includes maintenance of biodiversity, atmospheric stability, and other ecosystem functions not ordinarily classed as economic resources. And, in term of social aspects, a socially sustainable system must achieve fairness in distribution and opportunity, adequate provision of social services including health and education, gender equity, and political accountability and participation.

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sustainability (S), a field of macro-variables underlying normative targets and criteria to enhance social, economic and environmental sustainability; (2) governance (G), a field of macro-variables pertinent to the organization of civil society and influencing the organization of the social system to ensure sustainability; and (3) ethics (E), a field of principles used to explicitly orient goals and targets of sustainable development toward a higher level of values that clearly determine the future parts of sustainability.

Summary

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3

METHOD

Introduction

This research presents a sustainable business model for the stingray leather venture in Rembang. In developing the model, a SWOT analysis was undertaken as a starting point, followed by using Porter’s Five Forces framework. The research applies a qualitative approach to answer the research questions. According to Bui (2014), qualitative research is defined as a study that obtains data in a non-numerical form. Qualitative research embraces several data collection methods: Interviewing, observing, collecting, and feeling. The types of data from these methods can be obtained by person’s explanation, social interactions, physical environment, documents, and feelings (Yin 2011). According to Ragin (1987, 1999), as cited by Balan-Vnuk (2014), a quantitative approach uses variable-oriented techniques. It aims to drag conclusions from a sample taken from a population, based on relationships across a large sample of observations, and to identify common patterns underpinning a specific population. This research uses an exploratory study design. The research subjects who participated in the research have experience and knowledge relating to the Rembang stingray leather industry. The research used a purposive sampling approach and snowball sampling. Through snowball sampling, the research identified key persons who have knowledge and experience in the Rembang stingray leather industry. Data collection involved observations and interviews.

Setting

Most of the research activities took place in the Rembang Regency, Jawa Tengah Province, Indonesia. It is conducted on June 2014 and March 2015. The research followed and observed the business operations of a particular venture. The study observed several things, including the processing site and processing procedures, the suppliers, the business infrastructures, offers, customers, and financial aspects. The research conducted several interviews with selected respondents.

Participants

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program and actively provides consultation for the industry in Rembang. The official from the Department of Industry, Trade, Cooperatives, and Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises of the Rembang Regency has involved in developing the stingray leather industry in Rembang. A researcher from the Leather Technology Academy is selected as a respondent because he has knowledge and experience in the Rembang fish-based leather industry. A stingray skins supplier was also interviewed to provide additional information about the Rembang stingray leather business.

Measurement Instruments

The data used in this study was primary and secondary sources. The study used primary data from observations and interviews while secondary data was obtained from literature and document reviews. The interviews were conducted in a semi-structured format to explore all information about a stingray leather business model. In general, the interview questions asked about the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats in the Rembang stingray leather industry to all respondents. For the stingray leather business owner, the questions focused on how the business model was applied and the obstacles in applying the business model. An open-ended questionnaire was used with interviews being recorded and noted during the session for further analysis.

The interviews focused on using the protocols of Osterwalder and Pigneur’s book of Business Model Generation. These were used to structure the interviews and to provide insights for later analysis. It cannot be readily assumed that interviewees will have prior knowledge of Business Model Canvas which has been used to explore and co-create an understanding of business models. The interview technique and design applied needed the researcher’s ability to collect meaningful data with knowledge of the Business Model Canvas from the interviewees so that it could be analysed.

Pr ocedure

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Data Analysis

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FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION

The Stingray Leather Industry in Rembang

Rembang is one of the regencies in the Province of Jawa Tengah. It is situated on the Gulf of Rembang, on the northern coast of Java Island (see Figure 4). According to the Statistics Indonesia, Rembang’s total population reached 611,495 of people in 2013, with 14.3% of them are concentrated in the sub-district of Rembang. The fisheries industry is the leading industry that contributes to the economics of Rembang. Fisheries activities consist of marine fisheries and aquaculture. Fishermen and fish merchants are the key players in the industry. There were 20,482 fishermen and 1,486 fish merchants recorded in Rembang in 2013. These figures increased slightly from the previous year, where there were 19,842 fishermen and 1,477 fish merchants in 2012. According to Hariyanti (2009), the sub-district of Rembang contributes to 60% of fisheries’ products in Rembang Regency.

Figure 4. Map of the Rembang Regency

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15 and discarding the skin. After that, when the leather producer came and explained that the skin could be processed into leather accessories, they started to provide the skin to the leather producer. The leather producer said, “The availability of the skins depends on the smoked meat business”. The mutual partnership built between the leather producer and the smoked meat producer means that the smoked meat producer can earn profits from the business by supplying the skins to the leather producer, as they buy the fish wholesale. The smoked meat producer said, “It is more profitable for me when someone wants to buy the skins”.

There are several parties involved in the Rembang stingray leather industry (Figure 5). They consist of the supplier, the leather goods producer, and the government. The leather goods producer processes the skins into leather. The leather producer in Rembang utilizes small scale production facilities. It uses modern machinery and traditional manual works in processing the skins. The machinery consists of a tanning drum, compressor, and spray paint gun. Large buckets are still used by the producer who processes the skins in small quantities. Recently, there was one tanning drum used in Rembang, which can load up to 10 kg of skins. The leather producer in Rembang applies the white-tanning method to produce the stingray leather. In the white-tanning method, the producer uses formaldehyde as the tanning agent. According to Purnomo (2002), the used of the white-tanning method exposes the natural appearance of the stingray nerves. It also can give flexibility to the producer to colour the leather as requested.

The leather producer in Rembang does not produce leather good products – only leather. Thus, the producer employs a person outside the venture to produce the products. The producer said, “I used to send the leather to a person in Yogyakarta to manufacture the leather into stingray leather products”. Most of the stingray leather goods sold by the business in Rembang are manufactured in Yogyakarta.

Figure 5. Stingray leather value chain in Rembang

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Cooperatives, and Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises has initiated the development of the industry through several activities. The official of the department who cares about the development of the industry said, “I would like to develop the industry where Rembang can be acknowledged for its stingray leather”. In order to support the industry, the official provides his property as the site of stingray leather production. The official also helps promote the industry by showing the products in several local and national exhibitions. The official encourages the venture to keep the business, and the industry will give benefits to the region. The development of the industry involves the Centre for Leather, Rubber and Plastics (CLRP) as well. CLRP is a government research institute that has responsibilities for developing the industry for commodities of leather, rubber and plastics. CLRP has involved the development of human resources for stingray leather production. It also provides technical consultation and several types of processing machinery for the industry. The official of CLRP said, “The stingray leather industry in Rembang has a promising development in the future due to the availability of the raw materials, human resources, and the supporting institutions, such as the Department of Trade, Industry, Cooperatives, and Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises and other related institutions”.

The author sees that the industry is new in the region. It needs more people to involve in the industry. There is only an entrepreneur involve full-time in the stingray leather industry. The entrepreneur sources the raw materials from small supplier. There is lack of supporting parties, such as leather goods producers and chemicals suppliers. The entrepreneur operates the business in a small scale. Those influence the business operation and hinder the industry to develop in the region. Therefore, the stingray leather industry in Rembang could be classified as a nascent industry. An industry, which is in the earliest phase of development, is often categorized as a nascent industry. Therefore, it lacks of understanding, endorsement and the support of external stakeholders (Zuzul and Edmondson 2013). However, the local government has important role in developing and promoting the industry. This external stakeholder initiates several activities, such as training and promoting the stingray leather products, and encourages new entrepreneur in the business by providing the grant.

Bar riers in the Stingray leather Business in Rembang

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17 stingray leather venture owner hired some locals who live near to the production site for the production process. However, they are only willing to do the job as casual workers. The owner of the stingray leather venture said, “It is difficult to invite young people in the area to join with us in the processing site”.

It seems that work in the stingray leather industry is not as promising as in other industries such as manufacturing, wholesale, retail trade, and services industries. The lack of interest of the people could be caused by low incentives for them and their lack of self-confidence. The business could not offer attractive wages to the workers. In addition, the owner of the venture could not spend much on the workers due to the small size of the enterprise and the low skills of the increase the productivity of the venture. The development of human resources will support a sustainable development of an industry. Investments in human resources drive economic growth (De Silva 1997). In business, worker is part of key resources that allow a firm to create and propose a value, enter markets, maintain relationships with customers, and earn revenues (Osterwalder and Pigneur 2010).

Accessing raw material supply from local suppliers is also a barrier for the owner of the stingray leather venture. The owner has to compete with the well-established stingray leather enterprises from outside of the region. These ventures have been managed through partnerships with local suppliers for a long time before the local entrepreneurs existed. They provide the suppliers with several incentives. Ibrahim (2003) implies that the use of down payments can secure stingray skin availability from the suppliers. Well-established stingray leather ventures tend to use that kind of practice with stingray skins suppliers in Rembang. They establish partnerships with the suppliers, most of whom are fish merchants. The research found that there are some poor practices undertaken by the fish merchants to the fishermen. The owner of the Rembang stingray leather venture said, “I have a supplier that stopped supplying me, because she was threatened by the fish merchants that will not buy all of her fish if she sells the skins to the others”. This made the owner seek other suppliers who can supply the raw materials continuously. The raw materials availability is critical for the business’ operation. Thus, the local suppliers should apply good practices in providing the raw materials to the market.

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18

Analysis of the Stingray Leather Industry and Business in Rembang Business models relate to venture’s strategy (Morris et al. 2005; Casadesus-Masanell and Ricart 2010). SWOT analysis and Porter’s five forces are some types of strategic analysis tools that can be used to assess an industry, as well as the business within it. The development of the industry can be evaluated by analysing the internal and external factors of the industry as well as the competitiveness of the industry within the market. Those analyses can be a starting point to develop the model of the business. The business can be developed by using the business model canvas to identify the element of the business. According to Osterwalder and Pigneur (2010), those analyses can be useful to assess the business and, then, design the new business model. SWOT analysis assesses the organisation’s internal and external aspects that could be helpful and harmful for the organization. Industry analysis could create a better way to design a new business model. Business model canvas analysis will focus on each element of the business model that can be modified furthermore.

SWOT framewor k analysis

Rembang Regency contributes to the marine fishing production in the Province of Jawa Tengah. In order to measure the ability of the business, some scholars suggest SWOT analysis (Alexander and Pigneur 2010; Verstraete and Jouison-Laffitte 2011). The SWOT analysis framework identifies internal and external factor of the stingray leather industry in Rembang. The internal factor consists of strength and weakness owned by the industry, whilst the external factor is the opportunity and threat that arise from the environment.

Strengths of the stingray leather industry in Rembang

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19 The local government has developed the human resources skills and knowledge in the stingray leather processing technology through several kinds of training and education for the local people in the regency. The researcher from Leather Academy Technology acknowledges their effort and explained, “The local government really want to develop Rembang, especially for the leather industry, and develop new small enterprises”. From these initiatives, there has emerged some entrepreneurs in the stingray leather business. The most successful entrepreneur has made his business in stingray leather sustainable and has gradually improved the performance of his venture. Technological mastery is essential in order to execute the business idea. Focusing on the technology could create a stable condition for the business. The ability to manage the technology throughout the leather processing stage will have an impact on the management of the venture, in term of cost efficiency.

Weaknesses of the stingray leather industry in Rembang

There are several weaknesses in the stingray leather industry in Rembang that could hold back the development of the industry. Access to the larger local suppliers is still limited for the local stingray leather venture. This situation makes the venture seek the raw materials from outside of the regency to fill the stock requirements. At some point, supplies from the smoked meat producers could not meet the need of the venture. The lack of supporting industries deters the stingray leather industry to improve its business performance. The stingray leather industry needs support from several industries, such as chemical traders, leather goods producers, and the tourism industry. Integration of the supporting industries in the regency will improve the development of the stingray leather industry in Rembang.

The ability of local human resources in producing good quality stingray leather goods is limited as well. Even though, there are craftsmen who could produce the cow leather goods, they still could not produce good quality stingray leather goods consistently. This leads the venture to having to subcontract the work to the craftsman outside the regency. This affects the cost of the production. Local people are still not involved in the industry due to lack of information on the value of this industry. The local government seems to have made fewer efforts in promoting the industry to the new labour forces in the regency.

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Opportunities for the stingray leather industry in Rembang

The local government supports the industry through several actions. An action that has been realised is the approval of fund support for the stingray leather entrepreneurs. The fund is supported by the Department of Marine Affairs and Fisheries of the Rembang Regency. The support covers aid for machinery from leather processing to leather goods processing. The stingray leather entrepreneur said, “The fund will include facilities for beamhouse processing until leather goods making”. Government supports are important in developing the industry. Fang et al. (2011) suggest that government supports will attract investments and encourage the new enterprises involvement. Meanwhile, the demand for stingray leather goods produced by the owner tends to increase. The owner said, “I have difficulties to fulfil the demand of the stingray leather products due to our production capacity”. In order to facilitate the delivering of the products to the market, the Department of Industry, Trade, Cooperatives and MSME provides the opportunity to stingray leather business owners to show their products in exhibitions or trade expos.

Threats to the stingray leather industry in Rembang

Yogyakarta as the Indonesian leader in the stingray leather goods industry plays an important role in the stingray leather goods market. The competition in that area can influence the market in Indonesia. Recently, a price war was an issue in the market. The owner of Rembang stingray leather business said, “I have got news from some colleagues that there is an unfair competition in the stingray leather goods market in Yogyakarta, in term of pricing”. Furthermore, as most of the stingray leather and leather goods producers in Yogyakarta source the raw materials from Rembang, they tend to enhance their capital support to secure the supply of stingray skins for sustaining their businesses. These situations have threatened the development of the stingray leather industry in Rembang.

Stingray leather industry relies on the availability of stingray to support its sustainability. However, none of the respondents were aware of the issue. The owner of stingray leather firm explained that the business does not have problems with the availability of stingray skins thus far. It is critical to be aware of the continuity of stingray skins due to the fish availability in the ocean. According to Sosiawan (2008), fisheries activities in Java Sea have been categorized as over-fishing. It shows that the industry could be threatened by the lack of stingray skins supply due to the shortage of stingray in fish markets. Furthermore, an expanding request from well-established stingray leather ventures to big local stingray skins supplier could indicate that they have faced difficulties to source stingray skins understand the competitiveness of the industry. According to Johnson et al.

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21 competitors, suppliers, buyers, substitutes, and new entrants. Figure 6 reflects the Porter’s five forces representation for the stingray leather industry in Rembang.

Competitors

As explained previously, the stingray leather industry in Yogyakarta is the strongest competitor to the industry in Rembang. The industry in Yogyakarta has established its competitiveness with several advantages. Yogyakarta is a key tourist destination both internationally and domestically. The creativity of the Yogyakarta craftsmen has created a demand for stingray leather goods as an important craft product. It is also supported by the experience of the industry that has been established for a long time. The stingray leather ventures in Yogyakarta are well-established In fact, they has sourced the stingray skins from Rembang long time before the local people knew that it can be processed into more valuable goods. As stingray skins are important for the continuity of the business, it is critical for stingray leather ventures to secure the skins. As a result, they compete to retain stingray skins suppliers. Moreover, the stingray leather business in Yogyakarta faces unfair competition, where most of businessmen apply pricing strategy in the market. They tend to sell stingray leather products as cheaper as possible. This disrupts the stingray leather products market in Yogyakarta. However, the stingray leather entrepreneur chooses to avoid the competition and try to create a niche market.

Buyers/Stakeholders

Recently, the stingray leather goods producer in Rembang has reached the market in Jakarta, Semarang, and Surabaya. The owner could maintain and develop the buyers from outside the region. Yogyakarta has focused on the international markets, whilst Rembang still focuses on the development of domestic markets. In the perspective of the stingray leather venture, domestic markets still could be explored and provide some opportunities for a niche segment. The local government supports the industry in the production and marketing aspects. They promote the cooperative to involve in the management of new stingray leather businesses. However, it is difficult for the local stingray leather venture to fulfil the stock requirements. The local venture has to provide cash money to obtain stingray skins.

Suppliers

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discard the skins. The smoked stingray meat producer could give a cheaper price for the stingray leather business owner in Rembang than the stingray skins trader.

Substitutes

The research and development in leather processing technology has explored other skins that can be processed into leather. It included other fish skins such as tilapia, barramundi, puffer fish, etc. Several leather and leather goods producers have tried to produce leather goods made from tilapia fish. The product has been proven and has niche markets. The stingray leather and leather producers in Rembang also has diversified the product to other fish-based leather and leather goods. The academics from Leather Technology Academy said, “The development of other fish-based leather goods could sustain the business in Rembang and not rely on one product”.

New entrants

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Figure 6. Porter’s five forces framework on the stingray leather industry Business Model Canvas analysis

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Figure 7. The stingray leather business model in Rembang

Value propositions

In order to succeed in the market, a product should provide values for the customers. The stingray leather venture in Rembang provides several leather accessory products, such as wallets and purses. It also provides wet-salted stingray skins for the stingray leather producers and stingray crust leather for the stingray leather goods producers. The entrepreneur believes that an honest service is the key to success to attract the customers. An exceptional service in providing an explanation about the product and after-sales care impresses customers to put the trust on product and firm credibility. Those are values that offered to customers. The study found that the entrepreneur uses personal impressions to attract customers in buying the product. A personal approach is used for niche market due to the price of the product. A brief explanation on the product characteristics and specifications could increase the awareness and knowledge of the customers about the products. The entrepreneur also applies a special discount for resellers who buy more than five pieces of the product.

Key Partners

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Customer segments

The stingray leather business in Rembang targets niche market that knows the value of the product and willing to pay for it. The customers consist of end-users, resellers and stingray leather goods producers. End-users are the customers who buy the stingray leather goods for personal use. The resellers are the customers who purchase the products, either the stingray leather or leather goods, for commercial purpose. The entrepreneur also provides the wet-salted stingray skins and intermediary products for the stingray leather and leather goods producers.

Customer relationships

In order to build customer relations, the entrepreneur provides after-sales services for every purchase made by customers. The services include, but not limited to, the return of the damaged products. The entrepreneur provides incentives to resellers in the form of exchange for goods that have not been sold yet. The entrepreneur also welcomes all complaints about products and requests for customized products.

Channels

Distribution channels provide pathways to deliver the value proposition to customers. Through the channels, the entrepreneur communicates with customers about offers and informs customers about how to contact the entrepreneur. The entrepreneur uses the opportunities in the trade expos or exhibitions as a way to introduce products to the market. The entrepreneur also uses social media, such as Facebook and Blackberry messenger, as channels to deliver information regarding his products. Osterwalder and Pigneur (2010) propose five phases which are essential to creating effective channels: awareness, evaluation, purchase, delivery and after-sales. Social media can expose the awareness of customers to products. Simple and attractive information in social media could lead customers to decide whether the products are worth buying or not. There are only two answers in decision-making: Yes or No. A “Yes” answer will be realised into a transaction to acquire the product. When the transaction is done, it is an obligation for the entrepreneur to organise the distribution channels to ensure customers can get what they have purchased. Maintaining high-quality services, through after-sales services, for customers is important to build a good image of the venture. Thus, customers will spread the benefits of the products and the services.

Key partners

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obtains the skins from the smoked stingray meat producer and stingray skins traders. The smoked meat producer supplies cheaper skins than the skins traders. The study found that the entrepreneur establishes a good relationship with the smoked meat producer through an attractive compensation. The entrepreneur will pay cash for the skins and it is proved as an effective way to secure the supply.

Key resources

A business model will not work without resources. All resources will support the business to achieve its objectives. Resources are included physical assets, financial assets, intellectual assets and human resources (Osterwalder and Pigneur 2010). These resources are key elements to ensuring the business operates properly. The study found that the entrepreneur in Rembang stingray leather business have several assets as his resources, such as skills and knowledge in stingray leather processing, leather processing equipment, processing site, workers and capitals.

Key activities

With those key resources, the entrepreneur can conduct the business activities. The study found a number of key activities in the stingray leather business. The entrepreneur provides several products, such as wet-salted stingray skins, stingray leather and stingray leather goods, and processing services for the customers. The stingray leather entrepreneur focus the business on processing stingray skins and sell stingray leather products. He processes stingray skins into stingray crust leathers. However, he could not manufacture the stingray leather product and has to subcontract the work to the craftsman. After that, he sells the products to customers. He also sells the wet-salted skins and the crust leather for stingray leather producers and some academics for laboratory purposes. As a complementary, the entrepreneur processes the stingray skins for third parties who want to have stingray leathers with their own stingray skins.

Costs structure

All of the activities in the venture incur costs as a consequence of doing the business. The entrepreneur said, “The business has several expenses, such as utility fees, delivery costs, chemicals and raw materials procurement, operation cost, third parties fees, etc.”. All costs incurred during the production process, direct and indirect, are used in setting product and/or service prices.

Revenue streams

The entrepreneur of stingray leather business in Rembang generates an income from product sales and fees for services. Services include the processing of skins into leather and the finishing process of crust leather. The entrepreneur applies different profit margin for each of his customer segment. He prefers to use a cash-on-hand system for his products. This system improves the sales cycle.

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27 the business model should create a sustainable business which considers the social and environmental aspects as the pillars to be erected in addition to the economic aspect.

A Business Model for the Stingray Leather Business in Rembang An innovative business model could support the development of an industry. A business model for sustainability is essential to ensure the business generates continuous profits without neglect people and harm the environment. A business model consists of four pillars: product, customer interface, infrastructure management and financial aspects. Osterwalder et al. (2005) synthesize the business model as “a conceptual tool that contains a set of elements and their relationships and allows expressing the business logic of a specific firm. It is a description of the value a company offers to one or several segments of customers and of the architecture of the firm and its network of partners for creating”. Stingray leather business in Rembang is assumed as a sustainable business model. It proposes value from wastes generated by the food industry. However, the business could harm the environment due to the use of chemicals in its production process which makes it unsustainable. The owner of stingray leather firm could not afford eco-friendly chemicals. Thus, it is essential to modify the model of stingray leather business to develop a sustainable industry. The study found that there is a potential room for business model improvement in stingray leather business in Rembang. The proposed business model as a solution for the development of the industrial sustainability will focus on the infrastructure management, particularly on key partnerships (see Figure 8).

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5

CONCLUSION

Conclusion

The study aimed to formulate a business model for a sustainable stingray leather industry in Rembang. As a nascent industry, the stingray leather industry in Rembang should be concerned with social and environmental aspects, not only economical aspect, to deliver benefits to the development of the regency. Several data collection activities and analyses lead to a conclusion on how to create the stingray leather industry sustained through the business model.

The sustainability relates to how the business’ operations can deal with three aspects: Economic, social and environmental. There are several efforts to innovate the business model in the Rembang stingray leather industry to emphasize on these three sustainability aspects. Mutual cooperation is essential to deliver the benefits to all stakeholders in the Rembang stingray leather industry. This cooperation should be linked to engage economic and social benefits. The empowerment of coastal society in the stingray leather industry will improve the economics and social aspects.

The environment is an important aspect for maintaining the sustainability of the industry. As a nascent industry, the stingray leather entrepreneur should collaborate with the government-owned waste treatment unit to manage the waste. Stingray leather manufacturer needs to be aware of the pollution caused by the production process. The stingray leather entrepreneur in Rembang could establish a partnership with the Centre for Leather, Rubber and Plastics in treating the waste to preserve the environment and minimize the cost for waste treatments. As a result, stingray leather venture within the industry could have a better value proposition: has a better image of the firm as an eco-friendly firm and offers more affordable price for customers as it minimizes the production costs.

Limitations

It is acknowledged that the research has limitations in exploring the business model for a sustainable stingray leather industry. The researcher conducted the research on a small scale using a small number of participants who were chosen because of their knowledge, experience, and involvement within the industry. The research specifies the scope in the Rembang stingray leather industry.

Implications Pr actical implication

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key resources could increase the profitability of the business which will lead to the sustainability of the business.

Policy implication

Governments, both local and the research institution, could provide incentives to support the industry. The government incentives should encompass the encouragement of new stingray leather entrepreneurs and the management of local resources to ensure the sustainability of the industry. The research institution could facilitate the waste treatment of the industry. Thus, the industry could preserve the environment in a feasible way.

Theoretical implication

This research contributes to the existing theory on the application of a business model for a new business in a nascent industry and provides the basis for further researches. This research enriches the knowledge in leather industrial sustainability. Mutual partnerships might be considered as one of the business models to support the sustainability of a nascent industry.

Further Research Direction

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BASF. 1995. Pocket book for the leather technologist. Ludwigshafen (DE): BASF. Bocken NMP, Short SW, Rana P, Evans S. 2014. A literature and practice review

to develop sustainable business model archetypes. Journal of Cleaner Production. 65:42-56.

Bui YN. 2014. How to write a master’s thesis. California (US): Sage.

Casadesus-Masanell R, Ricart JE. 2010. From strategy to business models and onto tactics. Long Range Planning. 43(2):195-215.

Chesbrough H. 2010. Business model innovation: Opportunities and barriers.

Long Range Planning. 43(2):354-363.

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85(5):86-92.

Gambar

Table 1. Marine fishing production in Jawa Tengah Province (in tonnes)
Table 2. Marine fishing production by species in Rembang Regency (in tonnes)
Figure 3. Business model framework (Osterwalder and Pigneur 2002)
Figure 4. Map of the Rembang Regency
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