BONUS OF BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2016 NOT FOR SALE
Creativity
towards a
Global Market
WINE &
CHEESE
EXPO:
A Blend of
Two Cultures
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BY
50
THANK YOU
2 0 0 4 - 2 0 1 6
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GOVERNMENT: Menteri Pariwisata Republik Indonesia Kepala Badan Ekonomi Kreatif Republik IndonesiaGubernur Provinsi DKI Jakarta Wakil Gubernur Provinsi DKI Jakarta Wakil Kepala Badan Ekonomi Kreatif Republik Indonesia Deputi Bidang Pengembangan Pemasaran Pariwisata Nusantara Kemenpar RI Deputi Bidang Pengembangan Pemasaran Pariwisata Mancanegara Kemenpar RI Deputi Bidang Pengembangan Destinasi dan Industri Pariwisata Kemenpar RIDeputi Pemasaran Bekraf RI Sekretaris Daerah Provinsi DKI Jakarta Deputi Gubernur Bidang Budaya dan Pariwisata Provinsi DKI Jakarta Deputi Gubernur Bidang Industri Perdagangan dan Transportasi Provinsi DKI JakartaAsisten Pemerintahan Provinsi DKI Jakarta Asisten Pembangunan dan Lingkungan Hidup Provinsi DKI JakartaAsisten Perekonomian Provinsi DKI Jakarta Kepala Badan Pengelola Keuangan dan Aset Daerah Provinsi DKI JakartaKepala Dinas Pariwisata dan Kebudayaan Provisi DKI Jakarta Walikota Jakarta UtaraBadan Pelayanan Terpadu Satu Pintu Provinsi DKI Jakarta KepalaDinas Pelayanan Pajak Provinsi DKI JakartaKepala Dinas Koperasi UMKM dan Perdagangan Provinsi DKI Jakarta Direktur Edukasi Ekonomi Kreatif Bekraf RIKepala Biro Perekonomian Provinsi DKI Jakarta Kepala Biro Umum Provinsi DKI JakartaKepala Biro KDH & KLN Provinsi DKI Jakarta Kepala Dinas Pertamanan dan Pemakaman Provinsi DKI JakartaKepala Dinas Perhubungan dan Transportasi Provinsi DKI Jakarta Kepala Satpol PP Provinsi DKI Jakarta Kepala Dinas Kesehatan Provinsi DKI Jakarta Ketua PMI Provinsi DKI JakartaForkopinda Provinsi DKI Jakarta Forum Kordinasi Pimpinan Wilayah Jakarta Utara Forum Koordinasi Pimpinan Kecamatan Kelapa Gading Kementerian
Luar Negeri Republik IndonesiaDekranas Republik Indonesia Dekranasda Provinsi DKI JakartaDekranasda Korwil Kota Adminitrasi Jakarta Utara Abang None Jakarta Utara Suku Dinas Pariwisata Jakarta Utara Dekranasda Kabupaten Lebak PT Transportasi Jakarta EMBASSY: Kedutaan Besar Ceko Kedutaan Besar Hungaria Kedutaan Besar Kroasia Kedutaan Besar Slovakia A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO: Adrian Gan and Palantaloom collaboration in presenting the ‘Eloquence of the Eighties’ Show for JFFF Awards Chossy Latu Didi Budiardjo Ghea Panggabean Hian Tjen Itang Yunasz Priyo Oktaviano collaboration in presenting the ‘Kain Negeri Indonesia Barat’ Show MAIN SHOW DESIGNERS: Albert Yanuar Handy Hartono Hengki Kawilarang Ivan Gunawan Mayaratih Couture Musa Widyatmodjo Yogie Pratama PARADE SHOW DESIGNERS: Alfons Lee Andina Rizky Amelia Asky Ferbrianti Auguste Soesastro Carmanita Chintami Atmanagara Defrico AudyDenny WirawanEridaniFelisa ApriliaHastariena Josephine Nyoman Lanny HewijantoLulu Luti LabibiMartha EllenMayang IdbarizaMel AhyarMelia WijayaMonalisa LambangNina Natadipura Rasyid SalimRudy ChandraSiti Mahmudah Sugeng WaskitoSuryanti YokoTertia EndaTri HandokoWina PurnamaYenty TanYongki Budisutisna INDONESIAN FASHION BRAND PARTICIPANTS: Alda JP Design Ansy Savitri Artina Danjyo Hiyoji DIVI Diniira Happa Hikmat Hunting Fields I.K.Y.K IMAJI Studio Indonesia Creative Designerby Anthony Bachtiar & Ellyhan Jil by Gloria Agatha Java Batik Kamea Danella Kle Lima @ LAISON by Aurellia Santoso LMT LOTUZ Mahadevi My Size Norma Hauri Nita Seno Adji NOKI Sarinah Dept Store Sav Lavin Setio Utomo Batik Tanda Mata TANGAN Winod YSA Sejauh Mata Memandang Galeri Batik Jawa NES[bi] Gendhis FASHION TENANT PARTICIPANTS: Adelle Jewellery Barbie Kidz Station Optik Seis Sogo Dept. Store STAR Dept. Store FASHION SCHOOL PARTICIPANTS: ESMOD Jakarta Imelda Sparks Fashion Academy LaSalle College Phalie Studio UNJCHOREOGRAPHER: Edwan Handoko Hotma Hutagalung Leksi Unkle B Wawan Soeharto ARTISTS: 5 Romeo Ayushita Alyssa Soebandono Ayla Dimitri Chelsea Olivia Elvira Devinamira (Miss Universe Indonesia 2014) Ichsan Akbar Sissy Prescillia The Overtunes MODELS: Advina Anast Ayu Fa Bunga Jelitha Chloe Christina Borris Dhining Dominique Drina Ciputra Emmy Chaniago Gisella Grace Ilmira Jenny Zhang Julia Kotuleva Katharina Kharisma Kelly Tandiono Kezia Warouw Laura Muljadi Marcella Tanaya Michele Agnes Meiyola Paula Verhoeven Patricia Gow Rhesa Putri Senk Lotta Whulandary Herman Widika Wita SUPPORTING MEDIA PARTNERS: Ada Diskon Antara TV Antarafoto.com Antaranews.com Bobobo.com Brava Radio Cleo CNN Indonesia Cosmogirl Cosmopolitan CosmopolitanFM Esquire Femina Fimela.com Fitness For Men Gadis Global Radio Gohitzz Guo Ji Ri Bao Halo Jepang Harian Indonesia Harper’s Bazaar Her World Hitz FM Hard Rock FM i News TV i Radio Indika FM Jak FM Jakarta Shimbun JAX.co.id Kantor Berita Antara Katalogpromosi.com Kompas.com Koran Sindo Life Inspired Channel Asia (Li TV) Media Kawasan Media Kelapa Gading - Pluit Kapuk Men’s Health Indonesia MNC Channel Fashion MNC Channel Food & Travel MNC Channel Lifestyle MNC Play Noor Nyata Okezone. com Pesona Puan Pertiwi Rasamasa.com Rimanews.com Shang Bao Sindonews.com TRAX FM U FM Vemale.com V-Radio Weddingku Whatwelike.co Women’s Health Indonesia Yuk Makan SPONSORS: American Standard Avia Tour BCA Caiyida Dettol Grohe Harris Hotel & Conventions Kelapa Gading King Koil King Rabbit Lady Americana PAC Martha Tilaar Pepsodent Teh Gelas Telkomsel Toto Tupperware FOOD FESTIVAL PARTICIPANT: Bukit Baros Cempaka Chef Adhika Maxi Chef Alicia Tivey Chef Gilles Marx Chef Hiroki Takai Chef Stefu Santoso Coolant HattenWines I make the Pies Indonesia Sommelier Association (ISA) Marguerite NougatPandan Café by Klub Kelapa GadingPT. Danisa Texindo PT. Gawih JayaPT. Handal Inti Boga PT. Karunia Sukses Gemilang PT. Kaybee Interindo PT. Koin Bumi PT. Masuya Graha Trikencana PT. Nirwana Lestari PT. Saranakulina Intisejahtera PT. Sewu Segar Nusantara PT. Yuliana Lestari Indonesia PT. Yummy Food UtamaThe BarrelsThe Wine Cellar CARNIVAL PARTICIPANT: Abe Studio Bob Saputra Febrizal Hasto Nugroho Jember Fashion Carnaval Lukmansyah Misha Maska Studio PT Bola Fireworks Yohanes Sunyi OTHERS: CV. Akustik Multipro Komunika CV. Dwi Tunggal Teknik CV. Pelita Anugrah Langgeng (PAL) Cinema XXI Emiliana Dimas Roslita Manunggal Media Progresif Sukses PT. Astha Kirana Batara (TRIWARNA) PT. Melodia Semut Production Spoon Inc The Hermitage Hotel Toko Merah (PT Perusahaan Perdagangan Indonesia) Warna Warni Advertising Seluruh karyawan Grup Summarecon serta semua pihak yang turut mendukung terselenggaranya acara ini
w w w . j f f f . i n f o
Jakarta Fashion Food Festival
@JFFF_Info
3. Editor's Letter
4. In The World of Dreams 7. Consistency in Cultural Vision 10. The Story of Jakarta
11. Culture Injection 12. The Latest Presentation 13. An Array of Young Designers 14. The Sparkles of Young Creators 15. Contemporary Shades
16. Contemplation of Hijab 18. Talent Manifestation 20. Young and Winning 21. Fashion Creation in the
Nation's Talent 22. Grazes of Glamour
23. A Journey Full of Achievements 24. A Celebration & Appreciation
of Fashion
26. Restoration of Tradition 28. Art at Heart
29. Fashion Target
30. The Meaning of Dedication 31. Fashionable Structure 32. Indigo Beat
34. Admiring the Peacock 36. Melodies of Dewi 38. Harmony in Blue 40. Tale of Kites 42. Loveliest Imagination 44. A Dynamic Connection 46. Urban Celebration
48. A Sketch of Domestic Players 50. Traditional Heritage
52. A Flashback of Cultural Preservation
54. The Language of Traditional Indonesian Textiles
56 Beauty Animo 58. Subtle Glamour 67. Nouvelle Vague 72. Historical Heritage 73. A Culinary Festivity
74. Tasting a Piece of the Archipelago 75. Sharing Talents
76. The Fantastic Evening 78. A Complement to Perfection 80. A Run Full of Action
82. Let the Party Begin!
COVER
Cover Design: Ifni Isauria Photography: Hendra Kusuma Outfit: Adrian Gan
Earrings and Necklace: Rinaldy A. Yunardi Model: Ayu Fa (Wynn Models) Makeup: Priscilla Rasjid using PAC Martha Tilaar Hair: Prastita Pontjo Editor: Gusti Aditya
Stylist Assistant: Michelle Othman
T
his year Summarecon in Collaboration with Dinas Pariwisata & Kebudayaan Provinsi DKI Jakarta once again showed their commitment in supporting the local creative industry by holding the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival for the 13th time. The event that was held for one whole month, from May 22 to April 22, 2016, also became an opening event for the anniversary of DKI Jakarta through its three main happenings: Gading Nite Carnival, Fashion Festival and Food Festival.
Equal to the previous years, Gading Nite Carnival came off joyful and full of festivity. The carnival parade and decorated wagons were escorted by 400 dancers wearing colorful festive costumes. The creativity of the participants certainly deserved a round of applause as seen through the pages of this magazine.
In the fashion scene, creations by senior as well as young designers appeared dynamic and synergistic. Through many fashion parades and shows, they displayed the appreciation towards Indonesia’s traditional cloth which has now been increasing. Additionally the designers have developed more creatively in fashioning the nation’s cultural heritage. In the midst of the fashion event, JFFF is always consistent in delivering awards to the performers and supporters of Indonesia’s fashion industry through the Fashion Icon Awards. What made the awarding extra special was the closing night with a fashion show by designer Adrian Gan that was highly anticipated by Indonesia’s fashion world. This marked the second time Adrian Gan presented a full design collection at the JFFF, which at this time he collaborated with Palantaloom.
Kampoeng Tempo Doeloe (KTD) and Wine & Cheese Expo were also as merry. The theme for this year’s KTD was "Aneka Mie Nusantara" with a decoration theme of Chinatown. Wine & Cheese Expo yet again presented high quality wine products along with creations of international chefs at the Wine Dinner.
The whole event is reviewed in these 90 pages through comprehensive images and coverage that will be an inspiration to you. Enjoy!
Sincerely, Editorial Team
BONUS OF BAZAAR SEPTEMBER 2016 NOT FOR SALE
Creativity
towards a
Global Market
WINE & CHEESE EXPO:4
FOTO: COURTESY OF EDDY SOFYAN, COURTESY OF RICHARD GARTODUS, COURTESY OF JFFF 2016
CARNIVAL
NIGHT
The challenge to create a better dramatic opening compared to
the year before was answered by JFFF through Gading Nite
Carnival 2016.
By Verra Kusumamenggala
I N T H E
W O R L D
O F D R E A M S
Y
ou may still remember the festivity at the celebration of the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival (JFFF) in 2015. Numerous interesting programs were offered at Kelapa Gading area for one whole month. Last April to May this year, a series of awaited special events returned to the society. Starting with fashion shows from the country’s famous designers, fashion bazaars to support the small and medium enterprises, food festivals, to world-class wine and cheese exhibition all located in three big areas of Kelapa Gading, namely La Piazza, Kelapa Gading Mall and Harris Hotel and Conventions Ballroom. The opening parade of the JFFF that was titled Gading Nite Carnival could not be denied as one of the highlights of this massive event.While last year’s theme carried the adventure of Mat Gading traveling
the archipelago, this year’s theme emphasized the charm and beauty of Indonesia through the diversity of ethnics and cultures that were exposed through the Gading Nite Carnival show. A pleasant and peaceful atmosphere in the pluralism of traditions was portrayed
by the use of the traditional cloth to sugarcoat the costumes of hundreds of dancers that alternately swayed down Boulevard Raya road. Unlike last year, this year’s parade titled 'Negeri Impian' set out eight themes consisting of the dreams of us humans, which meant that this year made an additional of four more themes compared to last year's event. The themes were: Universe, Toyland, Candyland, Esmod, Avantasia, Negeri di Awan, Jember Fashion Carnaval and Love and Harmony.
At the carnival, the dancers made an enterance with rhythmic aerobic moves in unique and modern costumes for the Universe theme that was inspired by the traditional costume of the Dayak in Kalimantan. They became a symbol of the diversity of cultures and ethnics in Indonesia which was blended together in a modern society. The presence of the Face Icon 2016, Ayu Faradilla, waving gracefully from the globe-shaped wagon Left to right:
One of the dancers using a costume from Jember Fashion Carnaval; The wagon in the theme of 'Love and Harmony'.
The dancers of the theme 'Candyland'
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JFFF 2016, EDDY SOFYAN, RICHARD GARTODUS Festivity in the
dancer’s costumes at Gading Nite Carnival
also accompanied this theme. Following behind were dancers representing the theme 'Toyland'. Here, the dancers became symbols of the society’s ability to create local toys with international standard. The dancers flocked in wearing costumes similar to the soldiers of the Palace of Yogyakarta escorting the toy parade from behind. Next up, many kinds of toys that were owned by almost all children in the world in the forms of dolls, swayed down picturing the acculturation of culture through colorful fancy costumes.
Not stopping there, the Indonesian cultures were also pictured through the diversity of delicious culinary dishes that were also famous in other countries. Plenty of local snacks such as candy floss, lollypops and sweets became the main inspiration of the Candyland parade which was escorted by many dance moves. Next up was the success of Indonesia’s talented designers that had actualized their dreams by sharing
Indonesian cultures to the world. The ESMOD parade represented the success of the creative world that had enlivened and contributed to the world’s fashion trends. Still celebrating the beauty in dreaming, Negeri di Awan carnival visualized the atmosphere of life in the world above the clouds that was peaceful and pleasant. In its next series, JFFF fixated to a giant golden dragon
which became the main dance as if it was balancing the universe represented by the dancers.
The joyfulness continued with a costume parade that was presented by a group of dancers from Jember Fashion Carnaval, a carnaval that has made its voice to the world. The festival aura splendored with strong traditional elements through the beautiful costumes of the dancers. The theme 'Avantasia' visualized the popular Javanese art entertainment of wayang. Not only did it define Indonesia’s cultural feature, but also the traditional acculturation for many wayang stories that can also be found in Mahabarata. The festivity was closed by the theme 'Love and Harmony' which described love and harmony of the nature in the country’s charm, to escort a journey to the dreams of the people towards perfection. This magnificent series became much more special because it was closed with a parade of spectacular fireworks in the skies of Kelapa Gading, captivating the hearts of the visitors to participate at the 13th installment of the JFFF. n
TEXT: ARINTA WIRASTO; PHOTO: COURTESY OF JFFF; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
A translation of the nation’s cultural authenticity presented
through an integration of contemporary elements in traditional
expressions with conventional hints.
SUMMER
EXPRESSION
NEWS
FASHION
The stage of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016 last May was filled with the joyfulness of the Kidz Station Indonesia fashion show. Models under five years old to teenagers paraded around the stage in casual clothing with playful dynamic touches representing labels of the toy store that has existed in Indonesia for more than one decade. AW
PLAYFUL INTERPRETATION
A vibrant color palette decorated the stage of The Catwalk Fashion Gallery which promoted The Catwalk Colouration as its main theme. Eight designers that joined this fashion show successfully invited the audience to look at another side of traditional clothing, which was not all about batik and songket. The eight designers were YSA, Winod, Kamea Danella, Melia Wijaya, Alfons Lee, Mahadevi, Martha Ellen and Hikmat. The modern accents were implemented in ready-to-wear collections for men, women and hijab wearers without lacking the true features of Indonesia. AW
THE CATWALK COLOURATION
‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friend’ became the main inspiration for the newest collection at Adelle Jewellery titled 'Rose D’Amour'. Released as the first jewelry in Indonesia that uses glory setting configuration, the diamonds in this collection created a huge impression from its actual size. A number of clothing from Hengki Kawilarang Couture escorted the presentation of diamonds which carried the F color feature and VVS Clarity. General Manager of Adelle Jewellery, Michael Surya and Putri Indonesia 2014, Elvira Devinamira attended the event to enliven the talk show hosted by Kanty Widjaja. AWSHINE ON
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JFFF 2016; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
Casual became the keyword at the presentation of Sogo carrying the theme 'Summer Travel'. A dynamic impression was reflected by the festive palette collection for children, teenagers and adults. Playful clothes and accessories usually worn for summer activities decorated the fashion show which was supported by the labels at the department store. AW
F A S H I O N
A T T R A C T I O N
The fashion events that
enlivened Jakarta compiled in one coverage.
Enlivened the stage of the JFFF 2016 once again, Optik Seis presented ten of its flagship brands on the runway. Started with by Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, to Bvlgari, Coach and Ray-Ban, the 48 eyeglasses and sunglasses were modeled by models in monochrome outfits by Tities Sapoetra. The variety of eyewear not only showed the trademark of each brand's design but also a reference for the specs and sunnies lovers. SM
EYE FRAME REFERENCE
A splendid stage located at Kelapa Gading Mall
was sponsored by a display of kids wear from two well-known labels, Barbie and Hot
Wheels. Carrying the pretty dolls and car toys
as accessories and attributes of both labels,
the little models walked the runway in a joy full
of support from the audience. AW
KIDS ABOUT
TOWN
As one of the providers of plus size clothing in Indonesia, My Size finally participated for the first time at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016. The collection was divided into three big themes: Beach Resort, Morocco and Paris. Each and every theme projected the beauty of nature that became the source of designs for the women and men lines. The whole look of Travel in Style collection was designed in a casual yet comfortable cutting without lacking the stylish essence of the collection. AW
DYNAMIC PROJECTION
The popular label of plastic foodware, Tupperware participated in the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016. The row of models made a parade in all-black outfits to drive the attention to the objects carried in their hands in bright colorful colors of the newest collection of this multinational label from the United States. AW
10
TEXT: ARDANI SESOTYASARI; PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JFFF; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
NEWS
FASHION
T H E S T O R Y
O F J A K A R T A
The hectic urban life in Indonesia’s capital
would not prevent the local designers to
showcase the joyfulness of the city.
J
akarta, the heart of this country, is known as a melting pot of many cultures and ethnics spreading around the archipelago. Apart from its metropolis trademark, Jakarta’s other natural riches also brought inspirations to Dekranasda Provinsi DKI Jakarta in presenting a fashion show entitled 'Spring Summer Flora & Fauna of Jakarta' at the JFFF 2016 event. The fashion show showcased creations of each and every fashion concept of seven designers.The show opened by a collection of shawls from Jetty Prabatasari with the Alda JP Design label that flaunted the beauty of the flora of Jakarta. A row of designs by Nita Seno Adji looked stunning through designs full of floral embroidery
and colorful butterflies on white and red fabrics. Being consistent to use flora and fauna patterns, Nita also
presented clothes in the form of paintings that were printed beautifully. The next collection was from Tri Setio Utomo who showcased a batik collection by
promoting the theme 'Kibasan Burung Menapak Dara', revealing his expertise in creating modern
batik designs using florescent colors such as neon pink and green.
The next show was from Yunita and Tiara with the title of 'Tanda Mata', presenting traditional encim kebaya from Betawi enriched with beautiful patterns which were far from ancient. Accessories created by Anita in the theme of 'Lima@' exhibited
c o n t i n u o u s contribution by Dewan Kerajinan Nasional Daerah (Dekranasda) for the welfare of the community at Lebak district was transported to the stage of the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016. Through the designs of Divi and Wina Purnama, the audience was presented with the richness of Lebak culture in a collection inspired by leuit or the typical Baduy granary. This local wisdom was translated into Lebak batik patterns that were implemented in the collection and made in two colors, blue and black.
The batik patterns were then applied into different color palette on every other look such as brown, red, yellow and white. As the Regent of Lebak, Hj. Iti Octavia Jayabaya hoped that the presence of Lebak batik in the national scene could enrich the batik riches of Indonesia. She also hoped that the collection could increase the welfare of the community through Small and Medium Enterprises (UKM) especially in welcoming the ASEAN Economic Community. Although the incorporation of modern elements was heavily seen in the women and men collection consisting of dresses, tops and bottoms with a variation of different cuttings, the collection still remained consistent to its primary principle, which was to conserve the culture of the Lebak district. n
C U L T U R E
I N J E C T I O N
TEXT: ARINTA WIRASTO; PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JFFF 2016;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
A showcase of the Lebak
cultures through the
combinations of local culture
with modern elements.
12
TEXT: BUNGBUNG MANGARAJA. PHOTOS: ANDREW; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
M
any stereotypesassume that mostly department stores lack the variety and options in their collections. For instance, casual wear and office wear usually look conventional and mainstream. In response to this, Star Department Store offers a new collection in diverse formats, not only casual wear and office wear but also evening gowns.
At the JFFF, several lines of fashion at the department store located at Kelapa Gading Mall 1 presented their newest collections such as Young Style, Le’Rosetz, Farabona, Kent, Twang² to collections for the little ones from Pierre Cardin Kids. The presentation entitled 'New In' kicked off with displaying the casual format that was full of holiday spirit for men and women. Afterwards, a line of office wear consisting of suits and mini gowns were presented. The interesting part was the colorful collections of kids wear that successfully portrayed a cheerful spirit for the little ones.
As for Twang², the line from South Korea initiated by duo Lily Kim and Jung A Kim, presented an acculturation between South Korea and Indonesia. Both designers incorporated batik in every design that resulted a modern impression without lacking the culture values from both countries. The Twang² collection contained of a much fresher format, from jumpsuits to long gowns. n
A
collection of casual, business
and acculturation formats
at the newest offering at Star
Department Store.
REPORT
FASHION
T H E L A T E S T
TEXT: BUNGBUNG MANGARAJA. PHOTOS: ANDREW; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
A N A R R A Y O F Y O U N G
D E S I G N E R S
The f
inalists of the Next Young Promising Designers showcased
their talents through brilliant creations.
T
here are many roads to Rome. This saying was what encouraged us to keep on dreaming—just like the finalists of the Next Young Promising Designers at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016. Starting out as a daydream of a fashion event and the preparation that took up time and energy to finally bring astonishment to hundreds of people, the finalists succeeded to compete and present their competitive designs.Similar to its title, the Next Young Promising Designers selected not only young talented designers but also those who were serious
with their promising labels with a professional path within the country and the international stage becaming a huge hope. After the judging process of the finalists’ designs, three winners were chosen to receive prizes and to present their design at the fashion show opening at Harris Hotel & Conventions Ballroom in this year's JFFF. They were Anny Sukmawati, Farhanah Yunus Baraba dan Tiara Zahra Fitria, who won the highest scores from the competent row of judges, namely the famous designer Chossy Latu, officials from Cita Tenun Indonesia Dhanny Dahlan and Sandrina Satar, as well as Haryo Raharjo as JFFF’s Fashion Committee. n
Anny Sukmawati
Farhanah Yunus Baraba
THE SPARKLES
OF YOUNG
CREATORS
14
s many as five young designers took the stage of the OOTD event held by the annual Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival. The five young designers were Ansy Savitri, JII by Gloria Agatha, Imaji Studio, LMT and Noki. The presence of the five designers offered a variety of characters due to the strong concept behind each collection. It looked like these fresh designers truly understood that it was beyond neat stitches that became an essential but also the strong story and source of inspiration behind a fashion design.
For example, Ansy Savitri presented a variety of maxi gowns, tops and asymmetric bottoms, culottes, jackets and vests that were capable to fill the definition of modern blended with quirky inspired by The Smiths, a band that highly inspired her. JII by Gloria Agatha also brought a Zebra Cross collection, a series of black and white color striped with a touch of fuchsia. Gloria explained, “I was inspired by the preparation for vacation in the autumn, but not losing the spirit of summer. I believe a strong print is the key in dressing game.” As for Imaji Studio, the label initiated by Shari Susilo, Lyris Alvina and Gina Levina supported tradition that focused on the designs inspired by the batik method which used natural coloring from Indonesian plants. A provocative theme came from LMT by the title of Equalite. The narration of human right issues, especially sexual orientation burst on the stage trying to reject separations. A domination of baby terry cotton and experimental application became a witness of the designs with touches of ‘loud’ quotes. The theme 'Indonesia' was also presented by Noki through the Catra collection, in which the label attempted to display the ethnic pattern of the nation that was far from ancient and out-of-date feel. n
TEXT: GUSTI ADITYA, PHOTOS: SAEFFIE ADJIE BADAS;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
Attractive characters were the link
in the designs of five designers on the
OOTD stage.
Ansy SavitriSHOW
PARADE
LMTJll by Gloria Agatha Imaji
Studio
Noki
CONTEMPORARY
SHADES
15
O
ne of the fashion parades at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival was Trendology. Under this theme, attractive curations always surfaced from the fashion designers. This year, the designers that were requested to display their creations were Lulu Lutfi Labibi, Lotuz, Tangan, Sav Lavin, Laison and Diniira. All five designers were at the center of attention in the nation’s fashion industry. For example, Lulu Lutfi Labibi fashionedlurik into contemporary designs. In the Renjana collection, the designer described a story of the experience in his journey of creation. The creations were inspired by an experience of an independent woman alongside the modesty in her life journey and finally meeting a spiritual point. One would interact with contemporary batik motifs, tenun kupang and classic floral patterns.
[image:15.652.58.597.8.775.2]Lotuz carried the theme Luci that was considered to reflect the charm of the gothic and renaissance era in one of the cities in Prague. Black, red, green, blue and white palettes decorated silk and satin fabrics with a touch of embellishment. Tangan carried the theme Sex in a subtle form through 16 designs with highlighted features of unfinished hemlines, straight neckline, linen organic and designs that could be worn in several ways. With Eunoia, Sav Lavin transferred the jellyfish figure at the Kakaban Lake, which was her source of inspiration and also the book by Thomas More that titled Utopia. Eunoia presented the softness of jellyfish and laser-cut rubbers in the latest technique. Laison portrayed a tragedy into beautiful inspiration. Aurelia Santoso translated the history of Pompeii into a very urban fashion format. Not less interesting, a cultural theme reappeared from the Diniira label, in the forms of carvings from Tana Toraja to be exact. The diverse attractive motifs were transferred into print techniques and embroidery cutouts. n
Laison
Sav Lavin
TEXT: GUSTI ADITYA, PHOTOS: SAEFFIE ADJIE BADAS;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
Ending an adventure of imagination and history with
impressive collections.
Tangan Lotuz Lulu Lutfi Labibi
16
PHOTOS: ANDREW; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
SHOW
parade
T
he fashion arena in our country has become a place for fashion designers to channel their hobbies and talents in textile. This also applies for the fans of the modest wearCONTEMPLATION
OF
HIJAB
Three designers took on modest
wear theme with a much
modern balance without losing
its purity.
By Bungbung Mangaraja
designs especially hijab. As a host of one of Indonesia’s fashion events, the JFFF welcomed the Muslim wear fashion creators with open arms.
One of the creations at the JFFF 2016 stage was the fashion line Aira, initiated by designer Nina Natadipura. She presented a row of tunic designs that reminded us of classic items from the ancient Roman. As highlighted by the theme Tunic Black Glamorous, Aira emphasized the glamor touch in 15 pieces of her latest collection. A simple tunic was paired with something different such as a long outer and palazzo pants, to dresses as a manifestation of a much more modern Muslim wear. Even though all pieces were black, Nina combined other colors of fuchsia, magenta and violet that made the collection more alive. Additionally, the glamor theme was also displayed through crepe satin, chiffon, lace embroidery and even the nation’s traditional cloth.
This was a lot different from the designs of Id.Entity, where Andinara presented a minimalist design that expressed the elegant and classic side yet more attached to today’s style. A number of latest collections were given a touch of earth palette such as brown which became the prime color. The main materials used were cotton toyobo and linen with a combination of suede and scuba, giving it a trendy touch.
Meanwhile, Chintami Atmanagara explored the beauty of flowers in her first collection. Although Chintami was fairly new in the nation’s fashion world, she took design and material very seriously. An array of Muslim wear was presented with vibrant colors combined with embroidery, sequins and sparkly stones that elevated the hijab look. Taking the title, The Flower of Summer, Chintami wanted to show that the exoticism of summer was not yet over. n
18
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JAKARTA FASHION & FOOD FESTIVAL; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
T A L E N T
M A N I F E S T A T I O N
J
ust like the previous events, this year, four well-known fashion schools in Jakarta returned to enliven the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016. Their participations in one of the highly anticipated fashion and lifestyle festivals in Jakarta has always been a breath of fresh air to the observers of Indonesia’s fashion industry. This is because the young designers always succeed to show their projections towards fashion through a different angle compared to their seniors, therefore they can inspire other fashion players.ESMOD JAKARTA
Through the theme 'Indonesian Journey', ESMOD Jakarta that has existed since more than a decade in Indonesia, presented collections from its students. Elements of Indonesia’s rich nature became the main inspiration of the five young designers. Besides the big theme, Hastariena, Suryanti Yoko, Mayang Idbariza, Monalisa Lambang dan Siti Mahmudah (the alumni who displayed their collections) also got their own sub themes. The five themes (consecutive to the names mentioned above) were Summer Kiss, Mystical Enchanted, Particular Shore, Memories and Inflorescence. Elements that represented the beauty of our nation’s culture were also portrayed in the presentation, among others were the patterns of the peacock and
cendrawasih as well as batik from Jember. These elements were applied in the various looks which emphasized contemporary cuttings and a variety of materials such as duchess, brocade, poly silk fabric, cantilly and leather decorating the collection with its assorted color palette.
This prestigious event was the right place for the young
players of Indonesia’s fashion industry to showcase their
LASALLE COLLEGE
This year marked the return of LaSalle College at the JFFF. The students from the fashion design department showed off their designs at the presentation that titled 'Bali Paradise'. Inspired by the ancient Balinese culture, this collection was a unification of several cultural with modern elements. The students took a trip to several areas in Bali to observe the traditional cloth and to search for the right palette to be used in their collections. The observation results were then translated into a look that was dominated by dark colors such as green and blue, along with applications of batik patterns to the geringsing fabric, a typical Balinese fabric. These looks were delivered in long-cut elegant dresses with tier or layer accents. The minimal makeup on models was appropriate to accompany the whole presentation.
IMELDA SPARKS FASHION ACADEMY
In order to explore Indonesia’s rich cultures, Imelda Sparks Fashion Academy held a competition to make a fashion collage for those who were interested in developing their creativity. The participants were asked to make a collage from a certain media and apply 'Neoteric Heritage' theme into their creations. The competition began with a roving workshop to several places and ended at the grand final held by the JFFF 2016.
The moment at the grand final was enlivened by the presentation in the same entitled and another collection titled 'Black on Black', all prepared by the students. The Neoteric Heritage collection consisted of traditional art elements such as tenun from East Nusa Tenggara, kuluk or the headgear from Aceh and batik parang that were applied to several black-based looks.
20
TEXT: DANIAR CIKITA, BUNGBUNG MANGARAJA; PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JFFF 2016; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
YOUNG AND WINNING
Full of talent at a young age, here are the freshest
generation that will come forward on the fashion stages
in Indonesia.
YOUNG SPIRIT
The flux in Indonesia’s fashion scene has created a necessity of new, talented and professional models. As one of the best modeling competitions in Indonesia that continuously discovers new faces to walk the runway and pages of fashion magazines, Gading Model Search (GMS) returned in 2016. Supported by the attendance of the judges consisting of competent personalities in fashion such as the representative of PAC Martha Tilaar Hari Samsidin, Beauty Editor of Harper's Bazaar Indonesia Erica Arifianda, fashion designer Era Soekamto and Musa Widyatmojo, also Farid Dermawan as the representative of JFFF and Summarecon, the organizer of the event. From three locations: La Piazza Summarecon Kelapa Gading, Summarecon Mal Serpong and Summarecon Mal Bekasi, hundreds of new talents were captured and then appeared on the grand final stage at The Forum Mal Kelapa Gading 3. From 20 finalists which comprised of men and women, Riswanda Dipo Andaru came out as the winner for the men category and Nur Amalina Hayati won for the women category alongside Rafa Mutiara Putri, the winner in the favorite category.
FULL OF CHEER
In align with the Gading Model Search, the cheerful spirit returned to The Forum Mal Kelapa Gading 3 stage at this year’s JFFF through the Kids category. As many as 20 pairs of finalists looked confident just like professional models. All finalists of the age of 5 to 10 years old looked good in oriental style clothing. Not long after the little models expressed their talents in modeling, the winners were announced, which were Mitchel Surjadi of the favorite category, Adli Umar for the boys category and Kadek Natalie Ingrid Stanovsky for the girls category. Through GMS Kids, the organizers put a lot of hope in the young generation to fairly compete with the best talents in order to prepare themselves to step into the professional modeling world in the future. n
NEWS
F A S H I O N C R E A T I O N I N T H E
N A T I O N ’ S T A L E N T
TEXT: ARDANI SESOTYASARI; PHOTOS: ADI SETYO
Other than a result of fashion transaction, Fashion Village is a presentation of
Indonesia’s fashion trend that can be used as a style guide.
into 91 booths filling the corridors of Kelapa Gading Mall 3 and 5. A number of best quality accessories by Small and Medium Enterprises (UKM), Dekranasda and fashion schools such as La Salle and ESMOD as well as local brands participated to display the expertise of our people. Kain Negeri by Ghea Panggabean, M by Musa, Jajaka by Ivan Gunawan, Oemah Etnik, Batik Tembayat and Cita Tenun Indonesia were the names that jazzed-up Fashion Village alongside many other participants that were as stunning.
The enthusiasm of visitors towards local products was reflected by the crowd of all ages along the corridor of the Fashion Village. Apart from purchasing, many visitors also admired the row of products and shared stories about their taste towards the beauty of local products that should be aligned with foreign designers. Every year, this week of fashion has always become a guidance to those who follow the trend of the nation’s fashion. n
Many booths offering selected products of Indonesia at
the JFFF 2016
I
n order to enliven the JFFF 2016, Fashion Village is never absent to offer many fashion options. To celebrate the selection of the variety of traditions in Indonesia, all of the collections displayed have one commitment—to highlight the cultural treasures of the country that are realized into local fashion products with international quality.
T
he Supreme Style show at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival this year presented four d e s i g n e r s w h o a l l explored the link in glamor. References of gowns—short, midi and long—dominated the view in many figures.Yenty Tan built the collection entitled 'Splendor', which was inspired by the character of the goddess of brilliance. The many gowns exposed luxury, greatness and gracefulness, the elements that represented a goddess. The garment making involved various techniques such as laser cut and embroidery to build the decorative elements on the surface of the outifts.
Placing black and gold on the designs was the main support in the creation of Josephine Nyoman, who was inspired by the architecture of St Peter’s Basilica church in the Vatican. The silhouette was expressed by the reference of the shape of the dome and ceiling of the church through the arch applications and triangles that stood out on the creations.
Offering a much 'calmer' collection for Summer 2016, Asky Febrianti showcased the feminine side yet still holding a strong impression. The ornamental details were built from embroidery technique, sequin application and usage of color gradation on the surface of the outfits. The collection held a romantic spirit dominated by pastel colors that were soothing to the eyes.
Concentrating on the option of monotone colors, Tertia, a label by Tertia Enda displayed a ready-to-wear collection offering simplicity. Embellishments were far from being a king, the cuttings however were very highlighted. Accentuation in pleat techniques at the bust to asymmetric peplum cuttings were on the hip. n
TEXT: ARDHANA UTAMA; PHOTOS: MICHAEL ANDREW; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
REPORT
fashion
G R A Z E S
O F G L A M O U R
An interpretation of glamour by
four fashion designers.
Asky Febrianti
Tertia Yenny Tan
Josephine Nyoman
J
akarta Fashion & Food Festival is never complete without Face Icon, a festive agenda at the yearly event. This year, Ayu Faradilla or usually called Ayu Fa, was crowned therepresentative of the JFFF 2016. The 25 year-old model successfully won the prestigious position not only for her accomplishments in modeling but was also considered the most qualified to represent the image of the JFFF that persistently promotes the cultural treasures of Indonesia.
Ayu Fa started modeling at the age of 16 when she participated at a modeling competition held by a teenage magazine. Admitting to have a shy personality, Ayu made a decision as a self-challenge to try and live new things. This was where Ayu Fa realized her competency as a model, as interesting offers to participate in fashion shows held by top local and international designers started to come her way, and to pose in the pages of prestigious fashion magazines. This experience successfully made her more confident to appear in front of a wide audience.
Chosen for the Face Icon of the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016 definitely marked a new achievement for Ayu. Her process in becoming the Face Icon included a video interview, photo session for the JFFF 2016 campaign, to the Gading Nite Carnival, which she admitted as a few of her unforgettable experiences.
Ayu Fa’s accomplishments and efforts do not stop there. The half Padang–Manado model also wishes to take her modeling across Europe and the USA. Ayu who loves sports such as spinning class and pilates as well as good at playing piano has also completed her study at the Faculty of Law and successfully earned the title of a lawyer.n
A J O U R N E Y
F U L L O F A C H I E V E M E N T S
TEXT: CHEKKA RIESCA; PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAZAAR;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
ICON
face
24
PHOTOS: HADI CAHYONO;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
NIGHT
awarding
Originating from awarding senior practitioners of fashion,
a stage to continuously spark the development of the nation’s
fashion industry was open wide.
By Gusti Aditya
A C E L E B R A T I O N &
A P P R E C I A T I O N
F
ollowing the parade of Indonesia’s fashion designers at the Fashion Festival JFFF 2016 on April 27 to May 15, the peak agenda of the event took place on May 12, which was an awarding night for three of Indonesia’s fashion personalities for the Fashion Industry and Support, Fashion Designer and Lifetime Achievement categories.The winners were appreciated for their contributions, inspirations and commitments in developing Indonesia’s fashion industry. The form of appreciation entitled Fashion Icon Awards is routinely held at the end of the JFFF to continuously spark spirit to the Indonesia’s fashion circle marking its 11th awards. Before presenting the award, the event hosted by Aditya Herpavi and Ersa Mayori was also
Left – right: Director of Summarecon Lliliawati Rahardjo; MC Aditya Herpavi and Ersa Mayori
opened with a speech by Director of Summarecon, Lliliawati Rahardjo, then followed with the fashion parade and closed with a series of collection by designer Adrian Gan.
The Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival has proven that the event does not only celebrate culinary and fashion by local designers, but also reminds us to always encourage the actors in Indonesia’s creative industry, particularly fashion. After a chain of discussions by a team consisting of credible fashion observers, fashion players and fashion journalists, three names were chosen for the awards.
FPHOTOS: HADI CAHYONO;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
CEREMONY
CLOSING
The
combinations of three elements the past, the heritage of
Indonesia’s cloth and international packaging, became the essence
of the transformation of taste.
By Gusti Aditya
R E S T O R A T I O N
drian Gan successfully presented an
intense glamorama combination of the last decade and traditional elements together with oriental culture. Through the 80s era that supposedly became the global fashion trend, the designer brought out a series of collections entitled 'Eloquence of the Eighties' for the closing of the fashion parade at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival stage this year. The traditional elements were represented with songket with its gold and glamorous threads. To represent the charm of the nation’s cloth, Adrian Gan collaborated with Palantaloom label, a creative industry owned by the Swedish couple, Bernhard Bart and Erika Dubler, together with the partner Trini Tambu. The exsistence of the label promoted a vision to the young weavers, crafters of Bukittinggi to conserve the tenun technique in West Sumatera due to the developers of much more effective and efficient production technique.
Preferring West Sumateran songket was definitely by a reason. The conservation towards Indonesia’s traditional heritage has become an urgent matter, especially since the beginning of World War II when many
weaving houses started to close and found it difficult to get raw materials. Palantaloom has made a role to cultivate songket, not only in West Sumatera but also around Indonesia and abroad. This strong commitment was accompanied by a strong principle held by Palantaloom, for instance its designs were made without using a modern machine, but rather only by hand and traditional weaving tools. The songket was also weaved with silk and dyed using natural dye, also gold and silver colored thread, or real gold and silver thread which could be applied for special orders.
In the end, Adrian Gan’s collection was presented in 15 cocktail dresses and 11 evening gowns that successfully transformed local wisdom into global taste. Adrian chose the way by underlining songket in an international nuance, namely Japan. The designs portrayed a simple
and structural nuance accentuating Japanese strong culture with a mix of stitching, obi, origami and kimono neckline which interacted with the fashion lovers that night. A presentation of juxtaposition in several
elements came together in harmony with an edgy spirit. Adrian’s expertise shined clear in the mix of material, such as songket and taffeta, organza velvet and silver antique ornaments combined with old cloths that were usually used to cover the newlywed's bed as an accent or even a part of the design itself. n
RUNWAY PHOTOS: HADI CAHYONO;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR;
BACKSTAGE PHOTOS: NORMAN & ERICK DIVAIO – MORENO PHOTOGRAPHY
The visualization successfully documented from the backstage of Adrian Gan’s fashion show at the closing ceremony of Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016.
s a tradition at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival that awards fashion personalities with its Fashion Icon, three names were chosen this year as a form of appreciation for the fashion players of Indonesia. Amongst the names was Adi Teguh Prabawa or better known as Didi Budiardjo. Born in Malang with so much talent, Budiardjo has loved to draw since he was a child. Although the art in his blood did not run directly from his parents, they supported little Didi until his instincts and love for all things art grew.
In his teenage years, Budiardjo decided to enroll in a design school, Lembaga Pengajaran Tata Busana Susan Budiardjo. In these years, he learned to sew. Completing his education there, Budiardjo continued his journey in fashion to Paris, registering in a course at Atelier Fleuri Delaporte and during his time in Paris, he got used to the designs of the big names in fashion such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana.
After spending that summer in Paris, Budiardjo slowly entered the Indonesian fashion scene. At the time, Indonesia only had a few names in the fashion industry, namely Prajudi Atmodirdjo, Biyan Wanaatmadja and Ghea Panggabean. In 1990, Budiardjo held his first show, at that time he chose to go Anonymous in representing a series of his designs. Seven years later, he launched his debut collection by his self-titled label, Didi Budiardjo. In between his career as a fashion designer, he worked as a creative director for the fashion house Prajudi until 2006. It all started when he made a tribute collection for his role model as well as one of Indonesia’s proud fashion designers, Prajudi Atmodirdjo.
Budiardjo’s designs had been famous for being edgy and futuristic, in line with his expertise, Budiardjo started to show a romantic side in his designs. He even earned the title 'King of Romantic'. Budiardjo is also very explorative in the nation’s traditional cloth heritage. Patterns and designs from traditional cloth are almost always spotted at every solo show of his.
This too was pictured in his participation in the JFFF, after the peak of the show last year, this year he joined a collective fashion show by the theme Kain Negeri Indonesia Barat along with Hian Tjen, Priyo Oktaviano, Chossy Latu, Ghea Panggabean and Itang Yunasz. His dedication in the growth of fashion in the country and his
consistency in continuing to expose the richness of Indonesian culture have brought Budiardjo to his identity today. This year’s Fashion Icon Award was suitable to be handed to Budiardjo as a form of appreciation from the fashion enthusiasts, especially us who always admire his work. n
A R T A T H E A R T
28
TEXT: ANINDYA HARAHAP; PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAZAAR
Didi Budiardjo: Determination for Indonesia’s Fashion.
Rosalis R. Ardenan, Direktur Hubungan Antar Lembaga Luar Negeri BEKRAF RI and Didi Budiardjo
ICON AWARDS
FASHION
fashion magazines and ad campaigns, and the market seemed like it was thirsty for fashion.
Ichsan’s expertise in capturing the best moments and angle, although he was using only an analog camera and not yet armed with digital imaging technique, has made his name soar at the time. He was then recognized as one of the best fashion photographers in the country. Ichsan is also known as a curator, an organizer for art and photography exhibitions, photography and modeling jury, painter and an academic in art. He will always dedicate himself to the development of Indonesian art in general.
His achievement in photography and large contribution in Indonesia’s fashion industry has brought him to the Fashion Icon Awards at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2016. The trophy for the Fashion Industry & Support category was handed to Ichsan as a form of appreciation and also a reminder to the younger generation towards a figure of a prominent senior photographer who has made his role in the development of Indonesia’s fashion sphere. n
T
he existence of fashion in Indonesia would be incomplete without the presence of fashion photographers who captured the creations and the players of the fashion industry itself. Starting by capturing the designers who created beauty in a design, the expertise of the makeup artist in beautifying a model, to the charm of the model carrying the design of the designer. The name Firman Ichsan was declared as one of the credited photographers in the development of fashion in Indonesia.Ichsan started his career in photography as a journalist photographer in the late 70s after completing his education in the Netherlands. His interest in fashion photography started in the 90s when he realized that the style scope of a woman’s lifestyle was interesting to explore, leaving him to describe them in forms of images. At the time, fashion industry in Indonesia was significantly growing along with the appearance of several designers and their distinctive designs, local models also started to fill the pages of
TEXT: CHEKKA RIESCA; PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAZAAR
Catur Laswanto, Head of Dinas Pariwisata & Kebudayaan Provinsi DKI Jakarta and Firman Ichsan
F A S H I O N T A R G E T
As fashion photography in Indonesia has quickly developed, we should
not forget the name of Firman Ichsan as one of the country‘s proud
At the JFFF 2016, Melati once again took the stage to receive the same award but this time she was representing herself. The Lifetime Achievement category was handed to those who have dedicated their lives for the wellbeing of fashion in the country, and Melati who started her career as a model for her mother’s creations has fixated herself as one of the fashion figures. Although in several past decades Melati was better known as an actress (resulting six Citra trophies), she will now and again always come back to the runway. For example, in 2011, she walked for a fashion show commemorating 36 years of Ramli designs.
Melati started her career in modeling along with Titi Qadarsih, enlivening the fashion shows with fellow senior models such as Dhanny Dahlan, Henidar Amroe, Enny Soekamto and others. At the Fashion Icon Awards, Melati revealed that her dedication in fashion in Indonesia was never separated by the influence of her mother. She also spoke about her high hopes for the fashion industry in Indonesia thanks to the variety of fabrics that could be limitless. Born in 1939, Melati described her respect to the fashion designers in Indonesia who had optimized the nation’s traditional cloths like batik and tenun, that according to Melati were a plus in Indonesia’s fashion which carried the same appeal as designs by international designers. n
Y
o u n g g e n e r a t i o n today might know her better as a senior actress. The truth is that Marjolien Tambayong was born in Tandano, North Sulawesi and starting her career as a model when she was very young. She was 17 years old when her mother allowed her to ‘go out’ for the first time. This was what created her closer to the fashion world in Indonesia, though most influences derived from her mother, Non Kawilarang (Adrian Paula Kawilarang) who was a pioneer in the nation’s fashion industry.Three years ago, Melati climbed the same stage. That
time at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival 2013, Melati represented her mother, Non Kawilarang, to receive the Fashion Icon Awards for the Lifetime Achievement category for her contribution to Indonesia’s fashion. How could she not? After completing fashion education in Rotterdam, Netherlands, Non Kawilarang came back to Indonesia to share her knowledge. Several of Indonesia’s proud designers became students of hers; among others were Ramli, Poppy Dharsono and Iwan Tirta. Non Kawilarang also built an International Modeling Agency, the first modeling agency in Indonesia that focused not only on the ins and outs of being a model but also the dressing aesthetics in fashion context.
T H E M E A N I N G O F D E D I C A T I O N
30
TEXT: ANINDYA HARAHAP; PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAZAAR
ICON AWARDS
FASHION
Like living the trail in the journey of her mother's, Rima Melati was handed the
Lifetime Achievement Award as an icon of fashion in Indonesia.
Soegianto Nagaria,
FOTO : MICHAEL ANDREW
Compact
coverage from
the fashion
stages of
the Jakarta
Fashion &
Food Festival
2016 completed
by the Harper’s
Bazaar
Indonesia team.
STRUCTURE
FASHIONABLE
Whole outfit, Adrian Gan
Earrings, Rinaldy A.Yunardi
Photography by Hendra Kusuma
Fashion editor: Gusti Aditya
Model: Ayu Fa (Wynn Models) Makeup: Priscilla Rasjid
Hair: Prastita Pontjo
32
PHOTOS :
MICHAEL ANDREW; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
E
xploration of the cloths of the archipelago was the main concentration for Yogie Pratama at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival this year. Through collaboration with Dekranasda Lebak District, Yogie fashioned the Baduy ethnic cloth through the collection entitled 'Indigo'. According to the theme, the blue color was selected for thetenun cloth which was delivering a particular feel at the show. A firm yet elegant and calm impression developed in the collection.
The majority of the collection consisted of evening gowns with asymmetric elements. Speaking of silhouettes, his creations described a modern look. A number of outfits with the H-Line silhouette, semi-mermaid as well as bell and long sleeve wrapped the bodies of the models through body conscious illusions. Whether in mini or maxi cutting, the gradation of a blue ocean consistently kept changing.
In between the domination of the traditional tenun cloth, applications of other materials were also appreciated. Hence the visual was occasionally built from the camouflage of the fabric that improved the beauty of the Baduy tenun as the main attraction. For example, the presence of brocade, chiffon and lace which
I N D I G O
B E A T
Here is the formula from
Yogie Pratama in preparing
Indonesian women in a
global vibe.
By Ardhana utama
REPORT
were placed at the shoulder or thigh areas. Besides feminine gowns, tailored touches in the same tenun material also came in blazers and pipe cut pants. Yogie tried to accentuate a boxy impression on the shoulders to describe the character of the urban women. It was fit to say that tenun
could be applied to the modern lifestyle. On the surface of the designs, a variety of ornaments that became details were
made from several different techniques. Some were revealed in the forms of ruffles, beading and bow accents.
PHOTOS: HANAFI;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
contrast view appeared from the peacock gate located in Jaipur, India. Its building was very sturdy with detail engraved sculptures forming
the symbol of a peacock. The fowl that seemed grand was also
said to own a graceful aura. This symbol inspired Albert Yanuar to adopt its uniqueness into the
collection entitled Peacock Palace. The night felt like a celebration and dedication of Yanuar for the last ten years in the fashion arena of the country by the assembly of five of his personal fashion lines on one grand stage. The lines were Albert Yanuar Couture, Algarry by Albert Yanuar, Albert Yanuar Men and two new labels, Albert Yanuar Kids and Albert Yanuar Bags which successfully offered a complete collection.
Through his designs, Yanuar wanted
The
essence of Indian peacock gate was successfully fashioned by
Albert Yanuar to construct exotic motif designs.
A D M I R I N G T H E
P E A C O C K
to accentuate the breath of the East through a mixture of cultures. A number of the East culture characteristics blended into one design such as Indian motif-based, Oriental cutting, remaining rooted to the tenun pattern and Indonesian batik. Speaking of colors, a bright palette was caught the eye such as brown, yellow, fuchsia and blue to green.
As for the silhouette, the ESMOD alumnus did not leave his simple signature but also evaluated the curves of a woman’s body and delivered an illusion to cover the imperfections. As an example, Yanuar designed a party outfit similar to bodycon dresses, A-line tube dresses, off-shoulder dresses, to asymmetric gowns. In the ready-to-wear line, Yanuar offered comfortable outfits with a feminine concept such as pencil skirts, casual shirts, plaited midi dresses
and maxi skirts.
The soft effect was felt stronger by the selection of peachskin fabric and chiffon that were combined in layers with tulle, organdy and
duchesse. There were also a highlight to the surface of the design that was applied through the touches of digital printing and embroidery.
PHOTOS: ADI SETYO; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
M E L O D I E S
O F D E W I
The
graciousness of a woman’s charm
became the inspiration behind Hengki
Kawilarang’s evening wear designs
By Veronica Arviana
A
s many as 61 long gowns with silhouettes that honored the curves of women were presented on the stage of Hengki Kawilarang for the JFFF 2016 fashion parade. By the title of Dewi, the collection was presented in a grand and elegant ambiance. The choice of the name Dewi emphasizes women who were praised by their positions and social strata like the Greek Goddess from Egypt and Persia.38
PHOTOS: ADI SETYO;
MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
E
very year, Hartonoconsistently presents the fashioning of the nation’s cloth with a young and fashionable appeal. By using his signature tie-dye technique, the dyeing technique this time also included the shibori Japan cloth in his collection. By
the collection entitled 'Dream', Hartono delivered a row of casual designs for men and women that were divided into several main sequences.
Shirts paired with jodhpur pants and bomber jackets, straight mini dresses of the sixties, to maxi dresses and baggy outerwears that were built for the style essential of the tropical weathers. To complete the look, Hartono presented a collection of medium tote bags, sling bags and suitcases in a similar colored fabric. As for the men, jersey or batik shirts and denim dominated in nearly all of the designs.
The theme Dream was a wish of the designer who transferred them into
A
line of ethnic-based
ready-to-wear collection
by Handy Hartono.
By Veronica Arviana
H A R M O N Y
many patterns and designs on cotton or striped, plaid and
40
PHOTOS:
ANDREW; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
T A L E
o f K i T e s
The
beauty in traditional motifs was transformed
by Ivan Gunawan into fun modern designs.
e can still remember the first time Ivan Gunawan launched his label, Jajaka. Full of colors and graphic imaginations through layers of batik, Ivan presented something far more different at this year’s JFFF. At the 13th JFFF, the designer who loves to pair patterns adapted the philosophy of a kite that was full of young spirit. The shape which was identical to a child’s game was believed to hold a meaning of the four intrinsic doors, namely the door to wealth, the door to the heart, the door to moral and the door to God. To Ivan, kites also held the symbol of freedom that knew its limits and its self-awareness. Not less than 40 ready-to-wear resort style designs were presented in a fun way in different silhouettes starting from dresses, men shirts, palazzo pants, palazzo shorts, baggy shirts, 7/8 jumpsuits, to micro pants that mostly combined batik elements with universal fabric such as cotton to pleated stretch tulle.
That night, Ivan Gunawan brought two themes in his collection: Langit (Sky) and Bumi (Earth). One could see the domination of blue and white in Langit with accents of black and a description of freedom. Bumi was rich in nude and yellow colors. Surprising the audience with designs that brought admiration, a joyful ambiance was also portrayed through the stage decoration with huge kites and mega mendung motif backgrounds, rich in traditional patterns. Not only famous faces walked the runway, but also 10 fresh faces were selected by the designer through Instagram. The purpose was so that the audience could directly picture this Jajaka collection on all kinds of body shapes. n
PHOTOS: EDDY SOFYAN; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
LOVELIEST
IMAGINATION
Women become the most beautiful character in the
imagination of designer Musa.
T
here was one particular feeling that we felt while attending the big event of Musa Widyatmodjo at the JFFF 2016. Not only did the maestro flee in countless pieces of ready-to-wear designs for the line M by Musa, but he also celebrated the 25 years of existence in Indonesia’s fashion industry.That night, 'Wanita' was the big theme carried by the designer who began his fashion career in 1991. Widyatmodjo focused on the theme of gracefulness and beauty of Indonesian women as the most beautiful figure in his imagination. Through Wanita, a variety of evening wear, smart dresses to cocktail gowns were presented with combinations of embroidery and glass beads that sharpened the glamour look without overdoing it, just like his former collections over a decade ago. The choice of fabric also became the focus of Widyatmodjo. Shantung, lace and organza were the materials that had been a trademark of Widyatmodjo since 1993, but it was organdy that generated the yearning to his creations. Flashback to Widyatmodjo’s early career, organdy reminded us of the creations by this alumnus of Drexel University in fashion design. In the 90s era, not
many designers used this stiff material, Widyatmodjo however successfully fashioned it into beautiful gowns and still does until today.
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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JFFF; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
A DYNAMIC
CONNECTION
An infusion between art and Indonesia’s rich treasure was
fulfilled by Sugeng Waskito through a batik collection full of
modern elements without leaving behind the classic batik touch.
By Arinta Wirasto
REPORT
amous for its art and natural riches, Indonesia will never stop introducing batik to the local and international fashion industry, and this is no exception in the collection of Sugeng Waskito that successfully transformed the nation’s cultural heritage into various looks inspired by the peacock. In his designs, Waskito combined one of the symbols of Indonesia’s rich fauna with classic batik patterns such as parang, kawung and poleng. The application of silk and motifs was expressed in several ready-to-wear looks for men and women. The women collection focused on wavy silhouettes at the sleeves or accentuating long capes, while outfits with a variety of cuttings dominated the men collection. The appearances from the line Gee Batik by Sugeng Waskito that was exclusively presented at the Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival was displayed in a vibrant pallete such as red, yellow, green and blue. The look was also supported by makeup which was portraying the beauty of peacock to strengthen the festive atmosphere that wanted to be exposed through this presentation.n
PHOTOS:
EDDY SOFYAN; MAKEUP & HAIR: PAC MARTHA TILAAR
U R B A N
C E L E B R A T I O N
A
number of national designers
united love and creativity in an
urban touch.
By Bungbung Mangaraja
REPORT
fashion
M
any things inspire a design, especially from those made by the cold hands of Indonesian designers. One of the fashion lines familiar to the ear of the urbanites is Danjyo Hiyoji for its capsule collection entitled Kartasura. The original idea popped up when the designer made a trip to Solo and areas around the city. The dynamic duo behind this fashion brand, Dana Maulana and Liza Mashita, accentuated the beauty of lurik with the gerimispattern from Surakarta. Uniquely, the cloth had a one-way stripe pattern that was not parallel, making it look like a raining illusion similar to drops of light rain. When one looked at the collection in whole, they would also capture the aurora touch through the richness of the tindis technique and repetition of rope details. This collection also proved Danjyo Hiyoji's love towards the nation’s heritage by launching the latest line named Danjyo Hiyoji and The Culture.
Mel Ahyar, the designer behind the label Happa, presented the creation of Lady Lama through her imagination of Tibetan women completed with colors that were identical to that iconic look. Red and yellow not only looked fresh but also voiced braveness. The humble value was portrayed in the earthy colors such as brown, green and light peach. The blue and gray color described silence that once said was a curse to the Tibetan women for centuries.
Meanwhile, Chitra Subyakto focused on the beauty of Indonesia’s nature where she confessed to be inspired by the beauty of the sunrise and greeting nature in the morning. This time Chitra presented unique patterns that reminded us of the classic chicken bowl image and the titik bija pattern. The colors in her latest collection are believed to bring a new atmosphere to the artwork of Sejauh Mata Memandang. Yellow was
a symbol of the sun and turquoise symbolized the Sejauh Mata Memandang Danjyo Hiyoji
beauty of nature. Through Sejauh Mata Memandang collection, one would find classic attire with the pagi sore, a batik cloth that was divided by two patterns and met diagonally in the center.
Still within the urban realm, Hunting Fields stabilized its latest collection in a light display. A few designs were presented logically, inline with the laid-back look and not far from street style feel. Uniquely, designer Raiki Pasya gave different touches to the c
