The primary purpose of a book’s binding is to protect the text or contents. When the case begins to deteriorate, it is time to decide whether it can be repaired. Sometimes rebinding or replacing the book is more cost-effective than repairing it. The book should not continue in use once the covers are damaged because the contents are likely to be damaged. The following pages deal with several types of repairs that can be made to the case in order to make the book sound and usable. We do not suggest making new cases (rebinding) in-house. This operation requires much more training and equipment than is usually available in smaller institutions and is always done more economically by a library binder.
Wrapping the Text Block
When repairing the case of a book, it is sometimes helpful to wrap the text block, including the flyleaves, to protect them from staining.
Wrapping paper can be used, but many conservators prefer to use wax paper or plastic wrap (polyethylene) because these materials provide a better moisture barrier.
Cut a length of the wrapping material approximately three times the height of the book and insert it between the back flyleaf and the back cover of the book (fig. 5-57).
Fold the top and bottom over the text block and tape in place. Then fold the paper at the fore edge of the book and bring it up over the text. Tape in place (fig. 5-58).
Regular masking or other adhesive tapes can be used, but remember that over time, tape can deteriorate and ooze adhesive which could stick to the board sheet of the book. Wrapping is a temporary step and should be re- moved as soon as the repair is completed.
Consolidating Leather Rot (Red Rot)
Many collections have large numbers of books in rotting leather bindings of no historical importance. While it would be ideal to rebind these books eventually, it is sometimes necessary to keep them in use in their deteri- orated state for some time.
Unfortunately, once leather starts rotting, it cannot be restored to its original condition. The powder contin- ues to stain the pages of the book, nearby books, shelv- ing, and the hands and clothing of readers.
A number of coatings have been used to try to stop leather from powdering. These are not a cure, but they do consolidate the surface for a period of time. Hydroxypro- pylcellulose is available from conservation suppliers under the name Klucel G. It is a powder similar to methyl- cellulose and must be mixed with alcohol and other sub- stances to produce a gel. In the 1990s a premixed form was developed and is available under the name Cellugel.
This ready-to-use formulation is much more convenient to use. Since it is made with alcohol, be sure to have good ventilation in the work area.
Remember that this treatment is recommended for books from circulating or research collections only. Con- sult a conservator for advice on preserving leather books from special collections.
Fig. 5-57
Fig. 5-58
BOOK CONSERVATION TECHNIQUES
M E T H O D O F A P P L I C AT I O N
Wrap the text block as described above.
If the book is fairly small, hold it by the wrapped text block as shown in figure 5-59 and apply a thin, even coat of Cellugel over the binding.
Use a soft brush, 1"–2"
(2.5–5 cm) wide. Paint the edges of the boards and the turn-ins (see “Parts of a Book,” p. 95) if they need it, using a small brush with a chisel edge. It is okay (but not necessary) to paint over paper or cloth areas of the binding, since the gel does not stain. It dries very quickly.
The book can be stood up to finish drying with the covers open (fig. 5-60). If the book doesn’t stand well on its cover, put it down flat on clean newsprint or some other disposable, absorbent surface.
Place larger books flat on newsprint, rather than hold- ing them up in the air, and paint all the exposed areas.
Treat a few books, then go back to the first ones done to check if they are dry. Turn
them over to coat the rest of the bindings.
The more rotted areas of certain leathers may darken more than the rest of the binding. But this is a treatment of last resort, and the darkening is probably preferable to the untreated red rot. As always, when in doubt, consult a librarian or curator to make sure that the treatment is appropriate for the book.
After treating the bindings, it may be advisable to put a Mylar or paper tube jacket on the book, for added pro- tection. Directions for this are in “Polyester Dust Jackets”
in section 3, p. 72.
Reattaching Spine Labels
Some bindings have labels that are printed on a separate piece of paper or leather. When these start to come loose (fig. 5-61), it is easy to tack them down again before they come off completely or get torn.
Put the book in a finishing press (fig. 5-62).
In “Presses” in section 2, p. 40, we describe various types of presses that can be used for this purpose.
Note:When putting a book in a press, it is tradi- tional to have the head (top) of the book at the left.While this is not absolutely necessary, it is a very good habit to form
and will save you from attaching labels or spines upside down. When a book is flat between boards, or in a nip- ping press, the head should likewise be on the leftunless there is a technical reason to do otherwise.
To reattach the label, use a variation of the tipping technique. Cut a piece of Mylar or card stock 2"–3" (5–
7.5 cm) wide. Apply a light coat of mix evenly to one side of the card or Mylar. Slide the card carefully under one of the corners of the label, just as far as it will go without forcing. This step can also be carried out with the book standing up (fig. 5-63). Rub it down gently. This will transfer some of the adhesive from the card or the Mylar to the back of the label.
Remove the card and rub the label down gently through a piece of wax paper (or a paper towel).
Sometimes it helps to simply hold the label down with your hand for a minute until the adhesive starts to set.
Repeat the procedure at other corners or loose areas.
Fig. 5-59
Fig. 5-60
Fig. 5-61
Fig. 5-62
Fig. 5-63 BOOK CONSERVATION TECHNIQUES
Reattaching Flapping Spines
This is a quick fix for the spines of hollow back books that have broken at one hinge, usually the front. It is not a long-lasting repair and therefore not really suitable for reference works, but it is an appropriate treatment for circulating books that are otherwise in good condition.
The board attachment must still be sound; if it is not, the book should be repaired by one of the methods de- scribed in “Repairs to the Text Block and the Case,” or it can be sent to the library binder.
Put the book in a finishing press as shown, with the joints of the book at least an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) above the jaws of the press (fig. 5-64).
Note: In this case, the head of the book is on the right, because it is the frontjoint that is broken and this position is better for carrying out the repair.
Move the flapping spine away from the text block (fig. 5-65). Check to see if the spine linings are firm. Peel off or tack down
any loose bits. (If the spine linings are very damaged, this is probably not a good way to repair the book.)
Check also to make sure the strip of card or
paper that stiffens the spine (the “spine strip”) is in good condition. Tack it down if it has begun to come loose.
If the spine strip needs replacement, the book may need other repairs as well. Examine it carefully to decide what should be done. “Replacing a Torn Spine Strip” is described on p. 130.
Hollow Tubes
Hollow tubes may be found in some publisher’s bind- ings, especially larger books. They are sometimes referred to as “hollows” or simply as “tubes.” A tube helps attach the text block to the case and also creates a hollow spine (see fig. 5-9). New tubes are used in some types of repairs.
A hollow tube is made from a piece of medium- weight Western paper, such as wrapping paper or heavy bond, according to the size of the book. The paper is folded twice to produce three panels; the outer flaps are glued together to create a hollow tube the same width as the spine of the text block. The single side is adhered to the spine of the text block and the double side to the spine of the case.
M A K I N G A H O L L O W T U B E
To make a tube, cut the paper just a little shorter than the height of the text block by slightly less than three times the width of the spine. (See “Measuring” in section 2, p.
45.) The grain must be parallel to the spine so that the folds will be with the grain.
Make a mark on the paper, a little less than the width of the spine. Make a second mark, the exact width of the spine. Use a straightedge and bone folder to score two lines down the length of the paper. This will produce three sections (fig. 5-66). The middle panel will be the width of the spine and the two outer flaps slightly nar- rower, to make it easier to overlap them in the next step.
Apply mix to flap A and fold it over flap B (fig. 5-67).
Smooth down with a bone folder. When the flaps are glued together, pop the tube open to make sure it is not stuck shut (fig. 5-68). You may slide a strip of wax paper
Fig. 5-64
Fig. 5-65 Fig. 5-66 Fig. 5-67 Fig. 5-68
BOOK CONSERVATION TECHNIQUES
in it; it should be about the same width as the tube and stick out at each end. Let the adhesive set for a few minutes so the tube doesn’t come apart when you handle it.
AT TA C H I N G T H E T U B E
Apply mix to the tube on its singlelayer side. Then attach the tube to the spine of the text block (fig. 5-69). Line it up so it covers the spine from shoulder to shoulder and is straight. Be careful not to damage the joint of the flap- ping spine.
Rub down very well and make sure the tube sticks to the spine at the edges. Set the book aside to dry. If the edges of the tube separate from the
spine as it dries, insert mix or PVA under it with a micro- spatula and rub it down. You may hold it down with your fingers until it starts to dry.
If you put wax paper inside the tube, remember to remove it when the tube is dry. Occasionally, adhesive gets on the wax paper and it is difficult to slide it out. In that case, remove the book from the press and open the pages to the middle. This will pop the tube open and will make it easier to remove the wax paper. Next time, use a little less adhesive when making the tube.
P U T T I N G D O W N T H E F L A P P I N G S P I N E
Bring the spine down over the tube to see how it fits (fig.
5-70). Often, the edges fit together well without trim- ming. If the edge of the material covering the spine or board is ragged, trim neatly with scissors. In older books, the cloth over the
joints is often stretched, so that the spine might slightly overlap the area of the broken joint, or even the edge of the board.
Trim the torn cloth edges a little so they don’t overlap. When gluing the spine down
in the next step, be sure it is centered well on the tube.
If the tube sticks out from under the edge of the spine, the tube is too wide. Rip the tube off the book,
removing as much paper as comes off the spine easily.
Make a narrower tube.
If the fit is good, apply mix to the top of the tube.
Be careful not to get any adhesive insidethe tube. You may stick a little piece of wax paper or Mylar inside each end of the tube to prevent the adhesive from going in, and remove it after the repair is dry.
Bring the loose spine up over the tube, centering the spine strip on the tube, and rub it down through a piece of paper. Rub the edge of the spine especially well and hold it down for a moment. Put a piece of polyester web over the spine and wrap the book with an elastic bandage to keep light pressure on the spine until it is dry (fig. 5-71).
If you used a small wooden press, leave the book in it and wrap the book andthe press, for best support (fig. 5-72).
Repairing Corners
A binding with frayed, bumped, crushed, or delaminated corners does not protect the contents as well as one with hard corners. Damaged corners can often be straightened out and reinforced by the following methods.
If the damage is limited to fraying book cloth, rub a small amount of mix or paste into the cloth and pat down
BOOK CONSERVATION TECHNIQUES Fig. 5-69
Fig. 5-70
Fig. 5-71
Fig. 5-72
the loose fibers along the edges of the corner to adhere them to the board. Mix dries faster, but paste is less likely to show on cloth.
If the cloth or paper over the corners has started to peel up, the covering can be tacked down again using a scrap of Mylar or card.
Apply adhesive to the scrap and slip it, adhesive side up, under the loose
cloth or paper (fig.
5-73). Rub lightly with fingertips to transfer the adhesive to the back of the cloth or paper.
Slide a piece of mat board (or other thin, rigid board) under the cover, for support, and place wax paper or Mylar between the support and the corner.
Slide the Mylar or card out and rub the cloth or paper gently with a bone folder (fig. 5-74). (If you rub too hard, the cloth or paper may
become shiny and the adhesive may come through.) Align cloth threads as needed and shape the corner with fingers and bone folder. Air dry, without pressing.
When the corners of a binding are delaminated as well as frayed, separate the layers a bit more with a micro- spatula or with the blade of a knife (fig. 5-75). Pick up adhesive with the tip of a microspatula and insert a dab between each layer.
Press the layers together firmly and wipe off any ex- cess adhesive that oozes out (fig. 5-76).
With a support and moisture barrier in place, shape the corner with a bone folder (fig. 5-77). Let air dry. It is not necessary to clamp the corner while it dries, but it must remain undisturbed until fully dry and hard.
Occasionally, the cloth (or paper) covering the corner may be so worn that it is necessary to cover the exposed board. Slit the cloth or paper with a knife as illustrated (fig. 5-78) and lift it about 1"–2" (2.5–5 cm). Insert the knife flat under the
cloth and keep it parallel to the board. Push it slowly with a rock- ing or circular motion; try to lift as little of the board as possible.
Consolidate the layers of delam- inated board if nec- essary. Allow it to air dry, without pressing.
For most books, a thin book cloth, such as one of the tissue-lined rayon cloths sold by some suppliers, will give better results than heavier cloths and will be much easier to work with. A strong paper can be used if the original covering is paper. The repair can also be made using Japanese papers, which are available in colors.
Measure by placing the corner of the board on a piece of book cloth. Measure and mark ½" (1.3 cm) margins around the corner. Cut a triangle of cloth or paper for each corner that needs repair.
Apply adhesive on the back of the repair cloth. Pick up the cloth or paper on the corner of the board and slide the repair under it. Approximately ½" (1.3 cm) should
Fig. 5-73
Fig. 5-74
Fig. 5-75 Fig. 5-76
BOOK CONSERVATION TECHNIQUES Fig. 5-77
Fig. 5-78
extend on each side of the corner; these flaps will be turned in over the board (fig. 5-79). (The drawing shows the three portions of the cloth that will be trimmed off in the next step as white areas.)
Rub down with a bone folder through a scrap of waste paper.
Repeat this step on the other corners.
Open the cover and trim the tips of the repair cloth as illustrated in figure 5-80. (The broken lines indicate the corner of the board, under the repair cloth.)
Apply adhesive to the flaps (fig. 5-81) and turn them in one after the other as illustrated. Before turning in the second flap, tuck in the corner tip with the point of the bone folder (or your fingernail) to make sure it com- pletely encloses the tip of the board (figs. 5-82 and 5-83).
Paste down the second flap.
Rub down well through a scrap of waste paper. Paste down the original cloth over the new cloth, using a scrap of card or Mylar as described above.
VA R I AT I O N : AT TA C H I N G T H E R E PA I R C L O T H O V E R T H E O L D C L O T H
The preceding repair requires some practice and may be too time-consuming for many situations. You can also repair corners by consolidating delaminated layers of board and then pasting the new cloth or paper on topof the old cloth and endpaper. This is much faster and would be perfectly suitable for many reference books. In addition, trying to lift fragile book cloth or paper is not easy; applying the repair over such materials generally gives a neater result and is just as strong.
Repairing Tops and Bottoms of Spines
Like some forms of corner repair, this technique requires a good deal of practice. Before deciding to repair the top or bottom of the spine, examine the book critically to be sure that it is still solidly cased in (the joints should be in good condition) and that the endpapers are strong. If there are problems beyond torn headcaps, it would prob- ably be more sensible to rebackthe book, or send it to the library binder.
Select a cloth that is compatible with the original book cloth in weight and color. Cut it about twice the height of the damaged portion of the spine and the width of the spine, plus 2" (5 cm). You may round the corners if you wish.
Fig. 5-79
Fig. 5-80
Fig. 5-82
Fig. 5-83
Fig. 5-81
BOOK CONSERVATION TECHNIQUES