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ECOCERT STANDARD NATURAL AND ORGANIC COSMETICS

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Aulia Ashri Nurfurqoni

Academic year: 2023

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PREAMBLE

MAIN OBJECTIVES

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF THE STANDARD

RATIONALE OF THE STANDARD

REGLEMENTARY FOUNDATIONS OF THE STANDARD

T HE GENERAL REGULATION RELATED TO COSMETIC PRODUCTS

R EGULATION IN ORGANIC AGRICULTURE

R EGULATION RELATING TO INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTS CERTIFICATION

Outside of Europe, it is up to the company to advise Ecocert Greenlife if there is a discrepancy between local regulations and this standard.

T HE COSMETIC PRODUCTS AS DEFINED BY THE REGULATION RELATING TO THE COSMETICS

P RODUCTS INTENDED TO PRESENT SOME INDICATIONS REFERRING TO THEIR NATURAL ORIGIN AND TO THE

S TANDARD THAT CAN BE APPLIED WITHOUT PREJUDICE TO THE E UROPEAN COMMUNITY PROVISIONS

STARTING DEFINITIONS

C ONTAMINANTS

P RIMARY PACKAGING

S ECONDARY PACKAGING

R ANGE OF PRODUCTS

I NGREDIENTS

B ATCH

M ANUFACTURING

LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION

Regulation (EC) N enters into force on the twentieth day following the day of publication in the Official Journal of the European Union.

I NFORMATION RELATING TO THE STANDARD AND OBLIGATORY ON THE LABELLING OF A FINISHED COSMETIC

Appelations allowing the identification of the standard

Claim for the essential characteristics of the standard

Information concerning the ingredients issued from production complying with the

Information concerning the ingredients issued from production complying with the

Conditions for using information linked to the standard

I NFORMATION RELATING TO THE STANDARD AND OBLIGATORY ON THE LABELLING OF A RAW MATERIAL

Claim for the essential characteristics of the standard

Information concerning the ingredients issued from production complying with the

T RANSPARENCY WITH RESPECT TO CONSUMERS

Translation of the list of ingredients

Use of the word « organic » in the name of a finished product

RULES ON THE INGREDIENTS AND THE COMPOSITION OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT

D EFINITIONS AND RULES FOR THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF INGREDIENTS

Ingredient from natural origin

Therefore, certain animal products that do not come from endangered species (cattle, pig or sheep species...), the sampling of which will not have a negative effect on the natural balance, may therefore be used. They cannot be part of the animal, nor cause stress, pain or death and they must be naturally produced by them. They must be obtained according to the physical and chemical processes allowed in the technical sheet TS033.

Synthetic ingredients

R ULES APPLICABLE TO CERTAIN TYPES OF INGREDIENTS

  • Nanoparticular ingredients
  • Ingredients certified as organic
  • Extracts
  • Soaps and other chemically transformed ingredients from organic ingredients
  • Biotechnological processed ingredient
  • Water
  • Ingredients covered by a derogation

A mixture of organic essential oil and water does not count as 100% organic, even if it is already certified organic: the organic percentage will be equal to the amount of essential oil used. For all organic extracts, the ratio organic dried plant/final extract as well as the final composition of the extract must be stated by the manufacturer on the product's technical data sheet or on a certificate. The organic percentage in oily macerates is calculated thanks to the amounts of organic ingredients that were originally introduced.

Technical sheet TS012 covers examples of calculating organic percentages in plant extracts. Chemically transformed ingredients can be certified according to this standard, provided that one or more reagents used in their production are of organic origin. Case for ingredients for which the incorporated weight of reagents is known organic % of ingredient = weight of organic reagents / weight of all reagents.

The organic % is weighted by recycled or eliminated organic and inorganic reagents and by the final content of the active substance. Example for components for which the weight of certain reagents involved is unknown (example: hydrogen flow). Technical sheet TS011 covers examples of calculating percentages of organic products for chemically modified ingredients.

This substrate must be of non-GMO origin and each component of the substrate must comply with the criteria indicated above according to its origin (Article IV.A.1). The product of the biotechnological reaction must have been subjected to PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) analysis with a negative result that proves the non-contamination of the process. Nutrients such as trace elements, salts and vitamins should be eliminated from the final medium as much as possible.

If enzymes and bacteria are directly included in the formulation of certified cosmetics, they are considered ingredients and must comply with the rules described in Article IV. In the case of an internal water treatment system, it must comply with the procedures permitted in TS033 technical sheet and avoid stagnation and the risk of contamination. Water quality should be checked by tests or by monitoring the parameters of the treatment system.

R ULES ON THE COMPOSITION OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT

  • All of the ingredients are submitted to an obligation of conformity
  • The quantity of natural origin ingredients in the finished product
  • The quantity of ingredients issued from pure synthesis in the finished product
  • The proportion of ingredients issued from Organic Agriculture in the finished product

These ingredients are listed in the technical sheet TS035. technical sheet TS033), from products obtained in accordance with the rules of organic production. APPELLATIONS % of certified organic ingredients in the total ingredients that make up the finished product.

Q UALITY OF THE INGREDIENTS AND OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT

Contaminants

Prohibited ionizing treatments

Absence of nitrosamines

Prohibited genetic technology

Animal testing of the finished product

CONDITIONING AND PACKING

C ONDITIONING

P ROPULSIVE GASSES

PRODUCTION RULES

They are allowed and subject to restrictions in accordance with the national and international lists of protected or endangered species. Storage and transport of ingredients and finished product Storage conditions must ensure full traceability and eliminate any risk of contamination.

TABLE SUMMARISING THE RULES RELATED TO THE PROPORTION OF  INGREDIENTS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT:
TABLE SUMMARISING THE RULES RELATED TO THE PROPORTION OF INGREDIENTS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT:

S TORAGE AND TRANSPORTATION OF INGREDIENTS AND FINISHED PRODUCT

P RODUCTION OPERATIONS ( MANUFACTURING , CONDITIONING AND PACKING )

C LEANING AND DISINFECTION OPERATIONS

COMPANY CONTROL SYSTEM

I NGREDIENTS

Compliance of ingredients

Guarantees of compliance for organic ingredients

Suppliers of ingredients

S UB - CONTRACTING AND HANDLING

M ARKETED PRODUCTS

T RACEABILITY AND WORKFLOW CONTROL

Q UALITY SYSTEM

PROTECTION MEASURES – CLOSE ENVIRONMENT

An environmental analysis plan that makes it possible to identify the activities, products and services that have a significant impact on the environment. An environmental management program that makes it possible to define, monitor, implement and achieve the environmental goals the company has set. These requirements only apply to companies that are directly committed to the certification body and that have a production process (manufacturing and/or conditioning, etc.).

D ISCHARGE MANAGEMENT

Companies must establish in their internal control conditions a series of measures regarding the treatment of all residual products resulting from a production process, aimed at protecting the environment.

W ASTE MANAGEMENT

E NERGY MANAGEMENT

CERTIFICATION PROCESS

STANDARD UPGRADE CONDITIONS

At the end, a license and a certificate is delivered to the customer, which allows the company to manufacture and sell its products with reference to the certification and/or Ecocert. The detailed certification process is linked to the standard of organic and natural cosmetics for any information requirements for Ecocert.

M ODIFICATION OF THE STANDARD

C ERTIFICATION C OMMITTEE

U PDATING AND INFORMATION

To meet this standard, all new processes to obtain ingredients must also meet the criteria below, in addition to current regulations. If the process does not appear on the technical sheet TS033, a technical file must be prepared that includes all the following criteria, for assessment by the Ecocert Greenlife Committees.

G ENERAL COMMENTS

Reactants and ingredients from natural origin

Encouraging energy efficiency

C RITERIA SPECIFIC TO PHYSICAL PROCESSES

Application of organic production principles

Integrity of plant resources

C RITERIA SPECIFIC TO CHEMICAL PROCESSES

  • Use of green solvents
  • Origin of reactants
  • The biodegradability and ecotoxicity of ingredients
  • Catalysers
  • Transportation-related risks for the environment

The biodegradability and ecotoxicity of the components are indicators that allow limiting the impact of the finished product after use/discharge into wastewater. The processes that enable the proper management of waste and the energy used for their implementation. As far as possible, preference should be given to the use of catalytic reactants to minimize the use of catalysts.

If necessary, the standard will give preference to the use of non-petrochemical catalysts.

A N OPEN - ENDED STANDARD

SUMMARY DIAGRAM OF THE CERTIFICATION PROCESS (CF. TS004)

CRITERIAS REGARDING AUTHORIZED PRODUCTS FOR CLEANING AND

C RITERIAS CONCERNING THE COMPOSITION OF CLEANING / DISINFECTION PRODUCTS

  • Authorized substances
  • Restricted substances
  • Specific rules

C ONTROLLED CLEANING PRODUCTS

LIST OF ADDITIONAL TECHNICAL SHEETS

This technical sheet lists all physical and chemical processes approved by the Ecocert Greenlife standard for natural and organic cosmetics. If a process is not mentioned in this technical sheet, a technical file must be drawn up that includes all the criteria described in Annex I, for assessment by the Ecocert Greenlife Committees. Extraction (solvents of natural origin: water, glycerine, natural ethanol, etc.) Filtration (on an inert carrier in accordance with this standard).

Deodorization on an animal support Irradiation (ionizing rays: alpha, gamma) Sulphonation (except the excipients). This technical sheet lists all the synthetic ingredients and ingredients of mineral origin approved by the Ecocert Greenlife standard for natural and organic cosmetics. Where required by law, the use of a denaturant that does not conform to this standard will be investigated.

Calcium fluoride agent for oral hygiene product Mono-, di-, tri-calcium phosphate abrasive agent / Product agent for. Sodium fluoride Oral hygiene product agent Sodium glycerophosphate For make-up products only. Sodium monofluorophosphate agent for oral hygiene product Mono-, di-, tri-sodium phosphate buffering agent.

Lazurite (Ultramarine), CI 77007 Sodium Carbonate Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Sodium Hydroxide (Soda) Magnesium Carbonate - Magnesite, CI 77713 Sodium Magnesium Silicate. LIST OF INGREDIENTS APPROVED BY EXEMPTION Changes to this document are identified by a vertical line in the margin. Some ingredients for which there is no alternative that meets this standard are approved by exception.

This appendix will be reviewed according to the availability of alternatives that comply with the standard, to the development of the legislation and/or new technical or scientific data.

Table 1 : Synthetic ingredients
Table 1 : Synthetic ingredients

Gambar

TABLE SUMMARISING THE RULES RELATED TO THE PROPORTION OF  INGREDIENTS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT:
Table 1 : Synthetic ingredients
Table 2 : Ingredients from mineral origin  Ingredients authorized for a specific use:

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