Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 89
CREATING BATIK MOTIFS FOR ADULT WOMEN'S CASUAL CLOTHES
Nani Hera Pratiwi1,a), Bertha Galuhandini,b)
1 Indonesian Institute of the Arts Surakarta
2 Vocational High School 6 Surakarta
a) Email: [email protected], Phone: 0895392955757
b) Email: [email protected], Phone: 081328569310
Abstract
This article is entitled "Reog Ponorogo as a Source of Ideas in Creating Batik Motifs for Adult Women's Casual Wear". The purpose of creating this article is to preserve the culture of Reog Ponorogo through making batik motifs with Reog Ponorogo elements. The purpose of creation in making the work is focused on (1) How to create a design for adult women's casual written batik motifs with the source of the idea of Reog Ponorogo; (2) How to create a design for adult women's casual clothing with written batik motifs from Reog Ponorogo;
(3) How to apply the Reog Ponorogo batik cloth to adult women's casual clothing. The method used in the creation of works uses three stages. They are exploration, design, and embodiment. The process of creating works starts from the exploration stage, namely by observing art in Reog Ponorogo, designing designs, alternative designs to be chosen as batik motifs that are applied to adult women's casual clothing and embodiments. The embodiment technique applied to the entire work uses the written batik technique, dab coloring using remasol dye. Starting from the process of patterning, scratching, mencanting, coloring, melorod, sewing until finishing. In this work there are four titles of fashion works, namely "Sulur Prabu", "Singo Barong", "Dadak", and "Patih". The result of creating this work is suitable for adult women's casual clothing.
Keywords: Batik, Adult Women's Casual Clothing, Reog Ponorogo
INTRODUCTION
Indonesia is a country rich in culture, one of them is Reog Ponorogo. Reog Ponorogo is a traditional art that has lived and developed since ancient times until now which is said to contain a lot of historical values and legends. (Fauzanafi
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 90 2005, 164) Reog Ponorogo art is a traditional dance in an open arena which functions as entertainment for the people and contains magical elements.
Ponorogo's Reog Dance was news in Indonesia in November 2007, when the Barongan Dance, which is exactly the same as Reog, became part of the Visit Malaysia 2007 tourism campaign, 'Malaysia Truly Asia', which offended the Ponorogo people the most. The figure of Singo Barong, who has become an icon of Reog, wears his famous Sudden Merak mask without the inscription 'Reog Ponorogo' which should be found wherever Reog is performed. In fact, the writing Reog Ponorogo was replaced with the word Malaysia (Mapson 2010, 9). At that time, many media in Indonesia broadcast news that Malaysia had 'claimed' Reog as its own. This is based on the inclusion of Barongan alias Reog on the official Malaysian tourism website with an explanation that this art developed in Batu Pahat, Johor and Selangor (Mapson 2010, 10).
Not only in Reog Ponorogo art, batik culture has also been claimed by a neighboring country, namely Malaysia, which openly claims Indonesian batik as part of their culture. Factors that encourage Malaysia to make cultural claims, especially Reog and batik, are demands from the government and become a decision in making claims from the Malaysian people themselves who feel that Malaysia and Indonesia are one family and come from the same history (Adrian 2013, 1). The great name and popularity of Reog Ponorogo art has given rise to branding for Ponorogo Regency as "Reog City". Everyone mentions Ponorogo, so the first thing that comes to mind is Reog Ponorogo. Likewise, when people mention reog art, what comes to mind is Ponorogo. For this reason, the Ponorogo Regency Government chose Reog Ponorogo as the cultural identity of the Ponorogo people (Rido Kurnianto, 2017:1).
Components or elements in Reog Ponorogo art are also often classified into 3 groups, namely; barongan equipment, gamelan equipment, and clothing sets. The Barongan or Sudden Merak device is a standard device in the Reog Ponorogo art. The Dadak Merak (Barongan) consists of two types of devices, namely the Dadak Merak and the Caplokan. Dadak Peacock is the upper part of the barongan made of peacock feathers woven on woven bamboo and the head
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 91 of the peacock perched on a tiger mask. Caplokan is the lower part of the barongan made of tiger skin attached to a large mask resembling a tiger's skull/head equipped with a place for the head of the barongan when performing Reog art. Apart from acting as musical accompaniment for the stage, the gamelan instruments of Reog Ponorogo also have very high value and meaning.
Meanwhile, the sets of clothing are meant to strengthen the character played by figures in the art of Reog Ponorogo. Reog Ponorogo clothing or clothing includes;
old warok clothes, young warok clothes, jatilan clothes, poet anom (Ganongan) clothes, Klono Sewandana clothes, and Pemberong clothes (Rido Kurnianto, 2017:39). Various regions of Java and East Java are no exception are starting to preserve and develop the traditional batik of each region so that they can compete at the national level. One of them is Ponorogo Regency, the Ponorogo batik industry has existed since 1921 with types of motifs inspired by the Reog Ponorogo art and its peacocks using writing techniques (Mawardhi and Agustin, 2019:102) Written batik is batik made by hand (not with stamps).
Since UNESCO designated batik as a Masterpieces of the Oral and the Intangible Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009, the Indonesian people can be proud, because since then the international community has recognized that batik is a world cultural heritage originating from Indonesia. One of the reasons why batik is recognized as one of the world's intangible cultural heritages is that UNESCO recognizes that batik is rich in symbols and philosophical meanings related to the lives of the Indonesian people (Purnomo and Marwati, 2020:1).
From the past until now, Ponorogo batik motifs seem to have not experienced development because the art and skills of batik are indeed hereditary, so this has become one of the problems in the development of batik in Indonesia. Most batik craftsmen have limited ability to develop batik motifs because they are still shackled to existing batik motifs and have been standardized for a long time. Even though Ponorogo Regency has regional potential that can be raised into the form of batik motifs, ranging from cultural heritage, tourism to natural products (Mawardhi and Agustin, 2019:102).
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 92 Cultural dynamics is a cultural phenomenon as an ongoing or shifting process. Humans and culture are a unity that cannot be separated, because humans are supporters of the existence of a culture. Culture in a society must always have a function that can support the fulfillment of needs for members of cultural supporters. (Sudarwanto, 2016:16) Along with the times so that batik with the Reog Ponorogo theme continues to exist in the world of fashion, its development should follow current fashion trends, for example in casual clothing.
adult women, Clothing is everything we wear from head to toe. Casual means relaxed and simple. Casual clothing or casual clothing is everyday clothing that is worn at leisure and on informal occasions. (Riwayani, 2021:21) This style of dress focuses on practicality rather than beauty and beauty. The fashion model is often made not because it follows fashion, but because of considerations of ease of arrangement. From the description above, it gave the writer inspiration to create works with the visual Reog Ponorogo.
METHODOLOGY
The creation of batik artwork with the visualization of Reog Ponorogo as this final project is the visual appointment of Reog Ponorogo which is used as a batik motif which contains many meanings and symbols, and this motif is applied by the author to the casual clothing of adult women.
Exploration Stage
The Exploration Stage is the exploratory activity of exploring sources of ideas, collecting data & references, processing and analyzing data. The results of data analysis or analysis are used as a basis for making plans or designs.
Exploration activities can also generate unexpected shapes, symptoms, or things that can be re-explored to get a unique work of art. In an exploration activity an artist's imagination becomes important in seeing or interpreting an object.
At this stage the search carried out in the form of collecting data about Reog Ponorogo will be used as a visual form to become alternative designs. The author also collects data on adult women's casual clothing related to the source
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 93 of the creation idea raised. The author will put the idea of creation into several stages, namely:
Motif Exploration. At this stage, the artist performs stylization and replication from the source of the idea which will be appointed as the final project concept to obtain the beauty of the form. Form is an organization or a unified composition of the supporting elements of the work. From the themes that have been obtained, try to explore shapes by making sketches based on the themes taken by applying them to the form of batik motifs. The form of Reog Ponorogo is the main ornament for the writer, while the structure in Reog Ponorogo is the supporting motif. The author observes the form of Reog Ponorogo through a visual review of pictures and several books. There are motifs taken from the Reog Ponorogo art, namely: Barongan, Bujang Ganong, and Klono Sewandono.
The form of visual review that is collected is used as a reference in making designs or exploring shapes to create batik motif works. The results of the sketches that have been made are then selected so that the appropriate chosen design is obtained, then it can proceed to the process of making working drawings and making works.
Clothing Design. In this stage the author is looking for some references to the illustration of adult women's casual clothing as a reference. Then make several alternative designs in the form of adult women's casual clothing sketches, then from the alternative design sketches that have been made it is determined until the final design. In each fashion design there is a Reog Ponorogo component as the motif.
Materials Exploration. The use of silk cotton for hand-drawn batik is nothing new for the writer, because several previous works also used this type of cloth. The author also seeks information from a number of batik shops regarding the selected fabric, the result is that cotton-silk material is considered to have a high level of comfort, besides that both materials also tend to be good at absorbing colors.
Exploration Method. There are several techniques that the author uses in making hand-written batik with the Reog Ponorogo motif on casual adult women's
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 94 clothing. Starting from transferring the original form of the Reog Ponorogo component into the sketch, the author applies elements of beauty through the stylization stage. Stylization is a way of depicting to achieve a form of beauty by stylizing the object or object being drawn, namely by stylizing every contour on the object or object. To convey the ideas of Reog Ponorogo onto silk cotton, the author uses a closed dyed batik technique with a dyeing process using synthetic materials.
Design Stage
The design stage is to design and select the sketch results to find the final design. Selection of the final design considers several aspects such as techniques, materials, shapes and tools used. Then the second stage of perfecting the selected sketch becomes a perfect design, according to the style, shape, and character of Reog Ponorogo. The Result of Motif Sketch are several design options that have been made in the form of sketches in the previous stage will be sorted out with an aesthetic approach until a final design is found. Sorting alternative designs in order to get the selected design through the direction of the final assignment supervisor, so that even the selected designs can get additions or reductions in terms of visuals.
Motif Sketch 1 Motif Sketch 2
Motif Sketch 3 Motif Sketch 4
Picture 1. The result of motifs exploration
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 95 The author uses several aspects of fashion design to perfect the artwork he makes. Here are the aspects that the author will do:
(a) (b) (c) (d)
Picture 2. Result of Clothing Design
1. Function Aspect: The author uses a casual fashion design by taking the distilled Reog Ponorogo motif, and this is a form of campaign or movement to remind the public about cultural preservation through clothing for adult women.
2. Material Aspect: The author uses silk cotton as the main material and several types such as cotton, tulle, organza, wool peach Melrose, and Rosa belle crepe. Some of the materials that the author uses have light and comfortable characteristics to support daily activities without forgetting the current fashion trends.
3. Aesthetic Aspect: The aesthetics of the clothing in this work lies in the concept of the Reog Ponorogo motif, which the author stylized as well as possible, then the choice of color composition used is army color, mustard yellow, maroon, black. The color components are colors taken from components and elements in Reog Ponorogo art.
4. Ergonomics Aspect: Ergonomics aspect that the author does is to suppress the level of comfort and efficiency of use. The author designed the design by finding sources of information related to the production process to its embodiment by meeting predetermined product standards, then the author
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 96 chose a casual form to make it easier for users to do activities throughout the day.
5. Process Aspect: The process of creating this casual clothing artwork with the Reog Ponorogo motif uses a closed-dye batik technique with Remazol batik coloring which the writer then pours into casual clothing by meeting production standards.
6. Economic Aspect: Starting from the author's background to make casual clothing artwork with the Reog Ponorogo motif, as a work that balances fashion that keeps up with the times, the clothing work considers materials, tools to the production that the author issues. This also affects the choice of consumer level, target market and age limit of users
7. Social Aspect: The works of art created depart from the author's own ideas.
The author hopes that the casual clothing artwork with the Reog Ponorogo motif can be enjoyed in terms of beauty and shape by all levels of society.
Departing from this, the author uses a design that is familiar to the public so that it becomes an attraction to enjoy it.
Embodiment Stage
The embodiment of a work is the final stage of several stages of a work of art because this stage embodies ideas, concepts, foundations, and designs into works of art. The work embodiment stage is the stage of creative and innovative work in visualizing the selected design in the form of adult women's casual clothing. The embodiment stage of the work requires patience, thoroughness, flexibility, and good skills to produce a maximum work of art.
Departing from the results of careful exploration and design, the author makes hand-drawn batik cloth using the cover-dye technique and Remazol dye which is then applied to casual clothing. At the sewing stage, the writer uses the services of an artisan or a person who acts as a cultivator of the ideas created to be made into visual works, in another language, artisans are also referred to as craftsmen to make works happen. This is what the author does because of the limitations of the author's ability in the stage of working on the work, these
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 97 limitations are in the form of a lack of understanding of sewing, limited manpower and time which refers to the work embodied in the creations of previous works.
RESULT AND DISCUSSION
The work is the result of the process of embodiment of the work from the results of the exploration that I have made by going through several stages. This chapter explains in detail the description of the work regarding visual forms, philosophical values and application to clothing. The visual description of the work is not only seen from the visual form, but the process of exploration and experimentation in realizing the work is also important to convey. The description in this Final Project is an explanation of the philosophical references regarding the form of Reog Ponorogo. The creation of the Final Project presents several cultural values starting from the concept of creation, the form of the work, philosophy and the selection of the title of the work. The following is the result of my final project:
Picture 3. Result of Work Clothing “Adipati”
Adipati is the first work in this article. The name Adpati is taken as a synonym of the king in the Big Indonesian Dictionary (KBBI) where the king is King Klono Sewandono from the Bantarangin kingdom, and is a very powerful king and has a cemati called Kyai Pecut Samandiman as his flagship heirloom. At that time, Dewi Songgo Langit gave conditions to men who wanted to propose
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 98 to her, the conditions were in the form of a dance performance that had never existed before and that there must be a two-headed animal. King Klono Sewandono was finally able to fulfill the requirements of Dewi Songgo Langit by creating Reog Ponorogo. The Reog Ponorogo movement also sometimes looks like someone who is in love because it depicts King Klonon Sewandono who is in love.
The main motif on this dress is the crown of King Klono Sewandono's mask with a depiction using the stylization technique, stylization by enriching the shape but the characteristics of the original shape are still visible. The supporting motifs are tendrils made of peacock feathers, the isen for this motif are cecek, sawut, ukel and dindingan. The Prabu tendril motif is a symbol of strength and authority.
The Prabu tendril motif here uses green which has a calming meaning, yellow which means happiness and joy, and the basic color of this motif is black which is a symbol of inner strength.
Picture 4. The result of Raja Rimba
Clothing that is casual in shape is made using silk cotton cloth which has been batik. Visually, the Prabu tendril motif is shaped according to the pattern of the dress. Silk cotton is added with tricot so it is not see-through. Combined with army green toyobo cotton fabric on the waist and collar, organza fabric on the balloon sleeves and the bottom of the dress, yellow wool peach fabric is used for the strap decoration. On the back, it uses a 50 cm Japanese belt, a buckle for string decoration. The second work in this article is Raja Rimba, the name Raja
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 99 Rimba is taken from the synonym of lion in the Big Indonesian Dictionary (KBBI), the lion is taken from the mask of the Dadak Merak art of Reog Ponorogo. The uniqueness of this noble art lies not only in its performance, but also in the noble values it contains. This name is based on the main instruments of Reog Ponorogo art, namely the heads of lions and peacocks. These two animal figures, in the era of animism and dynamism that flourished among the Ponorogo people, were recognized as mystical animals, because both of them had advantages compared to forest animals in general. Lions have advantages in terms of strength and power, while peacocks have strength and beauty.
The main motifs on this batik are lions and peacocks with depictions of stylization techniques, stylizations that enrich the shape but are characteristic of the original form. The supporting motif is kepyur made of peacock feathers. The isen-isen in this motif are shredded, shredded. the lion and peacock motif is a symbol of power and elegance. The king of the jungle motif here uses green which has a calming meaning, yellow which means happiness and joy, and the base color of this motif is black which is a symbol of inner strength.
Clothing that is casual in shape is made using silk cotton cloth which has been batiked by visualization of tigers and peacocks and is shaped according to the pattern of the dress, silk cotton is added with tricot so it is not see-through.
Combined with black Rosabell cloth, yellow wool peach cloth. For the front of the shirt, use a jacket rivet and the cuffs are given decorative buttons, buckles for rope decoration.
Picture 5. Result of Clothing Work “Kelir”
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 100 The third work in this article is Kelir, the name Kelir is taken from the synonym for mask in the Big Indonesian Dictionary (KBBI). The mask in question is the Dadak Peacock which is an attribute used in art in Indonesia. Dadak Merak is a mask used in the Reog Ponorogo dance from East Java, Indonesia. This peacock chest measures 2.25 meters long, about 2.30 meters wide, and weighs almost 50 kilograms. This Reog art component consists of two elements, namely the head of a tiger and a peacock. The tiger head which is shaped like the original is used as a place for the Reyog (Pembarong) dancer's head inside equipped with caplokan (an object prepared to be bitten by the dancer so that the position of the tiger's head becomes strong). The main motif in this dress is the sudden peacock with a stylized depiction. Stylization is done by enriching the shape but the characteristics of the original shape are still visible. The supporting motifs are feathers found in the Dadak Peacock. The Dadak Peacock motif is symbolic of strength and beauty. Isen-isen in the form of chopped and sawut. The Dadak Peacock motif here uses red, which means strength and courage, yellow, which means happiness and joy, and the basic color of this motif is black, which is a symbol of inner strength.
The clothes made in the form of a dress are made using batik silk cloth according to the visualization of the Suddenly Merak motif and shaped according to the pattern of the dress, the silk cotton is added with tricot so that it is not see-through. Combined using red toyobo cotton fabric for the waistband, middle sleeves, and skirt straps. mustard color Tille, and black Rosabell cloth. The hem is buttoned in black, and the back of the skirt is buttoned in red.
Picture 6. Result of Clothing Work “Kedok”
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 101 The fourth work in this article is kedok, the name kedok is taken from the synonym for mask in the Big Indonesian Dictionary (KBBI). The mask in question is the mask of the prime minister Bujang Ganong, where in the story Bujang Ganong is the prime minister of Klono Sewandono who is nimble, clever, witty, powerful. This figure is depicted with a mask resembling a giant's face, a long nose, bulging eyes, an open mouth with large/slightly forward teeth without fangs, a blood red face and dense black and white hair covering the left and right temples.
The main motif in this dress is Bujang Ganong with the depiction of using stylization techniques, stylization by enriching the shape but the characteristics of the original shape are still visible. The supporting motif is the Dadak Peacock which is made small and wavy. Isen-isen using sawut, chopped gori, cecek. The Bujang Ganong motif is a symbol of one's loyalty and devotion. The Bujang Ganong motif here uses red which means strength and courage, yellow which means happiness and joy, and the basic color of this motif is black which is a symbol of inner strength.
Clothing that is casual in shape is made using silk cotton cloth that has been batik according to the visualization and is shaped according to the pattern of the silk cotton dress plus a tricot so it is not see-through. Combined using red Toyobo cotton fabric for the middle sleeves and pants, yellow wool peach cloth for the hem and buckle strap, yellow tille for the lower sleeve pieces. on the hem using yellow buttons, front rivets on the pants, buckles on the straps
CONCLUSION
In the exploration stage, the writer observed elements in the Reog Ponorogo art through books, journals and videos from the internet. At this stage, the artist performs stylization and replication from the source of the idea which will be appointed as the final project concept to obtain the beauty of the form.
There is a pattern structure on batik cloth including main motifs, supporting motifs, isen-isen. The shape of the Reog Ponorogo becomes the main ornament
Runtas: Journal of Arts and Culture Vol 1 No 2, June 2023 | 102 while the structure inside the Reog Ponorogo becomes the supporting motif. The motifs taken from the Reog Ponorogo art include: Barongan or Suddenly Merak, Bujang Ganong, Klono Sewandono.
The clothing design process first draws a fashion design, after designing several clothing designs the author selects several sketches of the motifs that have been made and determines the motifs that match the design model. Design is a blend to complete the image or arrangement that is used to complete the work as a whole in a work. Before making batik, clothing patterns must be made first so that the motifs match what you want. The design of batik motifs besides paying attention to how the motifs are arranged properly (pattern and composition). Basically, batik designs must adjust to the interests or needs of what will be designed, such as in terms of size, position, and shape of the motifs.
This is done to get the right work.
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