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4/4/23, 6:05 PM Email Universitas Sumatera Utara - [Sustainability] Manuscript ID: sustainability-2147866 - Revised Version Review Request

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Dear Dr. Hasanah,

You recently kindly reviewed the original version of the following manuscript, submitted to Sustainability:

Title: Gossypium barbadense preserved in situ in Central Brazil by fabric artisans and for medicinal use

Authors: Kálita Cristina Moreira Cardoso, Guilherme Hoffmann Barroso, Fabio Oliveira Freitas, Ivandilson Pessoa Pinto Menezes, Catarina Fernandes Silva, Nair Helena Castro Arriel, Valdinei Sofiatti, Lucia Vieira Hoffmann *

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4/4/23, 6:06 PM Email Universitas Sumatera Utara - [Sustainability] Manuscript ID: sustainability-2147866 - Revised Review Request Reminder

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Dear Dr. Hasanah,

A gentle reminder that we sent you an invitation on 6 February to review the revised version of the following paper, submitted to Sustainability:

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Title: Gossypium barbadense preserved in situ in Central Brazil by fabric artisans and for medicinal use

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Sustainability Editorial Office <[email protected]> 25 Februari 2023 pukul 07.21 Balas Ke: [email protected]

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Sustainability 2021, 13, x. https://doi.org/10.3390/xxxxx www.mdpi.com/journal/sustainability

Communication 1

Gossypium barbadense preserved in situ in Central Brazil by

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fabric artisans and for medicinal use

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Kálita Cristina Moreira Cardoso 1, Guilherme Hoffmann Barroso2, Fabio Oliveira Freitas3 Ivandilson Pessoa Pinto 4 de Menezes4 Catarina Fernandes Silva5 Nair Helena Castro Arriel6 Valdinei Sofiatti6 and Lucia Vieira Hoffmann6* 5

1Instituto Federal Goiano de Urutaí; [email protected] 6

2ESALQ-USP; [email protected] 7

3 Embrapa Recursos Genéticos e Biotecnologia; [email protected] 8

4 Instituto Federal do Ceará Acopiara; [email protected] 9

5 Universidade Federal de Goiás, [email protected] 10

6 Embrapa Algodão, [email protected], [email protected] 11

* Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +556235332235 12

Abstract: The cotton plant domesticated in Peru, Gossypium barbadense, has been present in Brazil 13 for at least 750 years. To understand how the species has been preserved in situ and to ensure the 14 continuity of preservation, we conducted expeditions to three different municipalities, one of which 15 is a traditional community (quilombo Kalunga community), interviewed plant maintainers and 16 compared to data from Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics. There is hand spinning and 17 handweaving for home uses and commercialization within and outside the traditional community, 18 which contribute to the continuity of in situ preservation of Gossypium barbadense. Medicinal use is 19 more determinant than hand weaving for the decision to keep plants and seeds. In situ mainte- 20 nance is essential for the preservation of biodiversity and complements the ex situ preservation. 21 Fabric handicraft is a predominantly female, low-income activity, and the number of people who 22 practice this activity as their main occupation has decreased. Interviews with Kalunga spinners in 23 and outside the quilombo community indicate to improve the marketing and sale of their products. 24 Policies to value handicrafts can ensure the continuity of biodiversity and disseminate and vivify 25 traditions, in addition to maintaining an income for the artisans. 26

Keywords: genetic resources; in situ mantainence; quilombo; tear; Pima cotton; Kalungas 27 28

1. Introduction 29

1.1. Cotton biodiversity in southern America 30

Archeological evidence shows that cotton cultivation and use in South America goes 31 back at least 7800 years before the present, with the earliest known variety being Gossy- 32 pium barbadense [1]. In Brazil, an archeological G. barbadense boll was found in Central Bra- 33 zil (Januaria cave, Minas Gerais) dating 750 years as estimated by radiocarbon dating [2]. 34 G. barbadense is of commercial interest, as it’s fibers are of superior quality than the 35 main cultivated cotton G. hirsutum L[3]; as well as other qualities such as potential for 36

medicinal use [4,5]. 37

Hand spinning is practiced in some places [6], including traditional communities in 38 Central Brazil [7]. It consists of ginning the cotton, carding the threads, and spinning, 39 sometimes using a wheel. Although it comes from different traditions, there is a certain 40

universality in the practice [6]. 41

As it is the case with many other tropical countries such as Haiti, Brazil saw the for- 42 mation of several hinterland communities by formerly enslaved people who eluded cap- 43 tivity [8]. In Brazil, these communities came to be known by the blanket term Quilombos. 44 Citation: Cardoso, K.C.M.; Barroso,

G.H.; de Menezes, I.P.P.; Hoffmann, L.V. Gossypium barbadense preserved in situ in Central Brazil by fabric ar- tisans and for medicinal use. Sustain- ability 2023, 13, x.

https://doi.org/10.3390/xxxxx Academic Editor(s):

Received: date Revised: date Accepted: date Published: date

Copyright: © 2022 by the authors.

Submitted for possible open access publication under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/license s/by/4.0/).

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Kalunga is one of these communities. It is distributed in sections of three municipali- 45 ties of the Central Brazil Veadeiros Plateau , where there is a National Park and a Conser- 46 vation Unit. The members of the quilombo have recently enjoyed the possibility of in- 47 creased income from tourism, mainly by selling various handcrafted items or local pro- 48

duce in various small storefronts. 49

Considering that cotton uses is related to plant and genetic preservation, the present 50 paper seeks to further the understanding of the pool of cotton biodiversity that is main- 51 tained by several communities in Brazil, that grow small amounts of cotton for ornamental 52 and medicinal purposes, as well as for fabric production. 53

2. Materials and Methods 54

In order to obtain information pertaining to in situ conservation of heirloom cotton 55 species such as G. barbadense, we have conducted expeditions to three municipalities of 56

interest in Central Brazil. 57

The first was Guaraita, state of Goiás, in twenty-seven November, 2021. The second 58 was Cavalcante, where members of the Kalunga community, the biggest Quilombo in Bra- 59 zil, were interviewed; the expedition lasted five days in July 2022. The other was Santana 60 do Araguaia, in the northernmost region of the country, during four days in August 2022. 61 Four additional fabric artisans were contacted as a comparison, one in Northeast Brazil, 62 two in São Paulo, and one in the same Central Region, but from other municipality (Santo 63

Antonio de Goiás). 64

During these expeditions, we have contacted members of the local community, and, 65 upon obtaining their consent (in the case of the Kalunga community, we’ve also obtained 66 permission from the Kalunga Association, as per Brazilian law 13.123 (November 16, 2015) 67 and Decree 8772 (May 11, 2016). In the Kalunga community, thread spinners were lo- 68 cated and contacted by a woman from the community. At Santana do Araguaia we located 69 small rural properties using the map and had help from a local guide. 70 At both localities, a questionnaire was applied to the plant owners about their use of 71 cotton, hoping this data would be useful to identify economic and social opportunities to 72

further in situ conservation of cotton biodiversity. 73

Whenever there were cotton plants being grown by these individuals, their charac- 74 teristics were recorded in order to allow for species identification. This was done to iden- 75 tify current levels of cotton biodiversity in these communities. 76 Socioeconomic data about Brazilian hand weaving was obtained from the National 77 Survey by Household Sample (PNAD), a publication of data about the Brazilian work- 78 force published by the Brazilian government trough the Brazilian Institute of Geography 79

and Statistics (IBGE). 80

It should be noted that, in 2016, PNAD methodology of data collection underwent 81 several changes. The data published from the very first issue of PNAD up until 2015 is 82 referred to as “traditional PNAD”, data published since than is referred to as “continuous 83 PNAD”. Most importantly, for our purposes, since 2016 the category pertaining to arti- 84 sanal weave workers has been removed and merged with leatherworkers. With this con- 85 straint in mind, we will use and present data from 2015 and 2021 in our study. 86

3. Results 87

Of 36 respondents, 33 reported to grow cotton from heirloom seeds, acquired from 88 the neighbors or family. Nineteen of them reported to use cotton for hand spinning the 89 fiber as well as for medicinal uses, 17 for the medicinal properties of seed only; only one 90 of the women grew cotton for mere ornamental purposes. Those who hand spin the cotton 91 did so for one of three purposes: 5 of them did so for crafting items used by themselves, 7 92 for selling the wires directly, and 7 either crafted items they later sold or had someone else 93 craft the items and sold those. For ease of understanding, Figure 1 presents this infor- 94

mation visually. 95

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96 Figure 1. Two pie charts with information about the cotton use by the respondents. The pie chart 97 under “fabric artisan’s breakdown” shows the use given by the manual spinning of cotton wires by 98 the artisans. At left, the one represents the single plant used as an ornamental plant only. 99

3.1. Guaraíta and Itapuranga 100

Five artisans were interviewed in Guaraíta and Itapuranga, four of them reported to 101 be in possession of cotton plants; they spin, but do not weave. These wires obtained by 102 them are frequently used in manual looms. While manual ginners, spindle and wheel are 103 simple and it is possible to spin without them, it is not possible to weave without looms, 104 which are generally expensive, large, and dependent on maintenance. Spinning and 105 weaving needs training to be practiced. What makes Guaraíta region unique are the tra- 106 ditional meetings of the people practicing cotton manual spinning. We participated in one 107 of these meetings (October, 2021), and it was a festive event where people from the com- 108 munity work together and also an opportunity to meet people and strengthen social ties. 109 The map showing the places where plants have been found are shown in Figure 2 (georef- 110 erentiation is shown at supplementary material) . The average earnings in Guaraíta 111 among the five artisans with this activity was 225 reais, corresponding to only 15% of the 112 median earnings of an occupied person in Brazil in 2021. For most of them (4/5), however, 113

it is not the main source of income. 114

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115 Figure 2. Localization of Gossypium barbadense plants in Guaraíta and Itapuranga. 116

3.2. Kalunga community 117

In the community, 14 women reported to be in possession of cotton plants, grown 118 nearby the house in rural area. Only one of them used it solely for the medicinal properties 119 of the cotton plant leaves; all the others reported to also use cotton for manual spinning. 120 Critically, most of the interviewed (12/14) have reported that they trade cotton yarn 121 and craftsmanship as a source of income. The main handicraft products are rugs and bags. 122 The greatest difficulty in selling the products is transportation from the rural community 123 to de village, since the roads are dirt; there are rivers, but no bridges. Access is only pos- 124 sible with 4x4 traction cars that allow crossing the rivers. None of the spinners interviewed 125 has their own vehicle. There is a store in Cavalcante village where this handicraft is sold, 126 and there are sales in the Alto Paraíso de Goiás municipality. The commerce seems to be 127 growing, and two weaves have recently been acquired by a store in the village of Caval- 128 cante. All the spinners also use cotton for medicinal purposes. The map of the collections 129 in Cavalcante is in Figure 3. Georeferentiation is shown at supplementary material 130

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131 Figure 3. Cavalcante and Teresina de Goiás municipality and points of collection. 132 Almost all of the respondents were over 40, with three exceptions: a woman of 31, a 133 girl of 18, and a girl of 12. A boxplot made displaying the age of those surveyed the Ka- 134

lunga community can be seen in Figure 4: 135

136 Figure 4. Boxplot of the age of Kalunga members that reported to practice handweaving. 137

Average earnings with craftsmanship was 189,89 reais. 138

Four out of 14 plants presented reddish leaves, bracts and stems. Thirteen of them 139 presented tightly united seeds, known as kidney seeds. Leaves were always big. 140

3.3. Municipality of Santana do Araguaia 141

In contrast to the Kalunga community, the population of this municipality is mostly 142 consisted of farmers that occupy small allotments of land, doled out as part of the land 143 reform program undertaken by the Brazilian government, as shown on the database of 144 the Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Food Supply (MAPA) [9]. The points of collec- 145 tion are presented in Figure 5. Georeferentiation places are presented is shown at supple- 146

mentary material. 147

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None of the respondents in this particular community have reported to grow cotton 148 for its fiber. Among the people interviewed here, the unanimous reason for the cultivation 149 of cotton was extraction of cotton seed oil for medicinal purposes. 150

151 Figure 5. Santana do Araguaia municipality and points of collection. 152 Three out of 14 plants collected at Santana do Araguaia presented reddish leaves, 153 bracts and stems. Ten bared kidney seeds, the other four, free , non-united seeds. Leaves 154 of all plants were big, as typical of the G barbadense species. 155 3.4. Socioeconomic data from the National Survey by Household Sample 156 As a separate category for fabric artisans is inexistent in the latest version of PNAD, 157 we will henceforth use traditional PNAD data, that, having started in the 1970s, was dis- 158 continued after 2015. In continuous PNAD, that started in 2012 and continues to be per- 159 formed, occupation is classified differently, and such separate category is inexistent (there 160 is, however a broader category for artisans "of fabrics, leather and similar materials". 161 In the 2002-2015 period, there was a marked and continuous decrease in the number 162 of fabric artisans, starting from 172,702 persons in 2002, finishing with 42,619 workers in 163 2015. During the same period, the occupied population of the country grew from 66.5 164

million to 82 million. 165

There was a continuous increase in average years of schooling within the fabric arti- 166 sans, however, this average is still considerably lower for artisans of fabric than for the 167 general population. In 2002, the schooling of fabric artisans was 4.8 years in average, and 168 6.7 in 2015. In the whole Brazilian population, the schooling years were 7.4 and 9.6, re- 169 spectively, for 2002 and 2015. The proportion of women was always high for the fabric 170 artisans, with 92.5 of woman in 2002 and the lowest proportion in 2014, 82.9. Considering 171 all workers, the proportion of woman grew gradually from 2002 (37.9) to 2015 (41.0). 172 The age of workers shows a tendency of growth, both considering all the workers as 173 considering fabric artisans only. Considering that the average age is a random variable, 174

we can than model this data as 175

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𝑦(𝑡) = 𝛼 + 𝛽𝑡 176

Where 𝑦 is the age in any given year, 𝑡 is the year, and 𝛼 and 𝛽 are parameters of 177 the population. Using the least square method to estimate 𝛼 and 𝛽 yields, the increase 178 of all occupied people β=1.99, while considering fabric artisans only β=0.131. 179

4. Discussion 180

Gossypium barbadense is a genetic resource valued for its fiber quality, which is spe- 181 cially long [10]. It is grown as a cash crop in several countries worldwide [11-13]. In the 182 U.S., Upland and Pima cotton account for around 95.5 % and 4.5 %, respectively, of total 183 fiber production [12]. In Brazil it is almost not cultivated commercially, since cultivars 184 are not being developed. It may be used by industry as well as by local craftsmanship [14]. 185 It also has medicinal uses, for its antimicrobial and healing properties [4,5]. This species 186 crosses with the main cropped cotton, G. hirsutum, domesticated in Mexico[15]. It has been 187 found in the wild in several places in South America, where it originated [14], although it 188 doesn’t occur naturally in every country. In Brazil, it occurs only where grown in back- 189 yards and gardens (https://www.cnpa.embrapa.br/albrana/). Conservation is, therefore, 190

inextricably linked to its cultivation. 191

Interview results show hand spinning is linked with conservation in the state of 192 Goiás, but not in Pará. Previous Embrapa research shows that about 80% of plants in the 193 Nothern region, in Acre, Amapá e Roraima [16], Pará [17], and Amazonas states [18] are 194 grown only for medicinal purposes. In the Tocantins state, some of the cotton was used 195

for hand spinning [16, 19]. 196

The growing access of the general population to textiles and medication, as well as 197 modification of rural landscapes in Brazil, from small individual plots to sprawling mech- 198 anized plantations, seem to be responsible for loss of continuity in preservation of species, 199

as well as knowledge of cultivation of use. 200

The Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) [20] as well as the International Treaty 201 on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture [21] defines in situ conservation as 202

“conservation of the ecosystems and natural habitats and, in case of cultivated or domes- 203 ticated species, where they developed their properties or characteristics”. That should also 204 be done for G. barbadense. Public policy in support of biodiversity and gender equality can 205

also support fabric craftsmanship. 206

Manual spinning activity is therefore more concentrated within traditional commu- 207 nities than outside it [22] and may be associated with fiber quality. 208 The purple color of plants, more common in the Amazonia region [18] were strongly 209 present in the Kalunga community, suggesting ancient distribution to the region. Acqui- 210 sition of weaves and cars for transportation are the limiting issue. Characterization of a 211 local art and stores and internet commercialization will become naturally. 212 In situ and ex situ maintenance may favor cotton breeding for long fibers, which can 213 be strongly favored by modern genetic technologies [10]. The main foreseen mentioned 214 benefit of G. barbadense genetic introgression under commercial cultivation is the fiber 215 quality, but phenolic compounds that may confer resistance to insects were also reported 216

[23]. 217

Conclusions 218

Policy seeking to support handcraft could ensure continuation of biodiversity and the 219 continuation of tradition, as well as secure income for several woman that work in it, thus 220

positively impacting communities. 221

222

Author Contributions: “Conceptualization: KCMC, IPPM , LVH; methodology: GHB, FOF, 223 KCMC, IPPM , LVH, VS ; software, GHB and CFS. Writing: all authors. Funding acquisition: LVH, 224

KCMC, NHCA. 225

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Funding: This research was funded by Embrapa project , BioBridge (FAO) and Convenio com As- 226

sociação dos Produtores do Pará. 227

Informed Consent Statement: Informed consent was obtained from all subjects involved in the 228

study. 229

Data Availability Statement: “Not applicable”. 230

Acknowledgments: To Ziany Neiva Brandão for the Santana do Araguaia map. 231 Conflicts of Interest: Declare conflicts of interest or state “The authors declare no conflict of inter- 232

est.” 233

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