Van hoa via he o" Ha Npi hien nay
Nguyen Thi Phir<mg Cham*
' Vien NghiSn cim Van hoa, Vi^n Han lam Khoa hoc xa hpi ViSt Nam.
Email: [email protected]
NhanngSy 10 thang 10 nam 2019. ChAp nhan dang ngay 29 thang 10 nam 2019.
Tom tat: 0 Ha Npi, van hoa via he dien ra hang ngay, da dang va sdng dpng song dudng nhu Iai chua dugc nhin nhan mpt each khach quan tir goc nhin nghien ciiu va quan ly. Bai viet niiy chi ra via he d Ha Npi vira la khdng gian sinh ke da dang va Iinh hoat, vira la khdng gian sinh hoat rpng md, khdng gian xa hpi dac thii, khdng gian nghe thuat dpc dao va khdng gian ky tie song dpng.
Chinh vi vay, via he co vai tto vd cung quan ttpng trong van hoa cua Ha Npi. Via he la khdng gian da sd hiru, da chiic nang, nai dien ra nhieu chieu tuong tac gifta nha quan Iy vdi nguai dan va giua tigudi dan vdi nhau. Tat ca nhirng dieu tren cho thiy sy sdng dpng, da dang, phiic tap cua ddi song van hoa via he. Hien nay, chinh quyen dang no luc quan ly theo hudng don gian hoa, quy chuan hoa ndn gap khdhg it kho khan khi dep ttgt tir via he d Ha Npi.
Tu- khoa: Khong gian van hoa, tt^t ty: via he, van hoa via he.
Phan lo^i nganh: Van hoa hoc
Abstract: In Hanoi, "the culture on the pavement" occurs daily, varied and lively, but it seemingly has not been viewed objectively from a research and management perspective. This article points out that pavement in Hanoi are both a diverse and flexible space of livelihoods, and an open living space, a unique social space, a unique art space and a space of living memories. Therefore, pavements play an extremely important role in the culture of Hanoi. They are muhi-ownership, muhi-functional space where take place many dimensions of interaction between managers and the citizens and among the citizens. All ofthe above shows the liveliness, diversity and complexity of the "culture on the pavement". Currently, the government is trying to manage in the direction of simplification and standardisation, so it has encountered various difficulties when establishing order on the pavements of Hanoi.
Keywords: Space of culture, order on the pavement, "culture on the pavement".
Suhject classiflcation: Cultural studies
Khoa hpc xa hpi Viet Nam, sd 12 - 2019 1. Mff dau
Cudi nam 2016 dau nam 2017 van de via he, lan chiem via he, lap lgi trat ty via he...
ttd nen nong tren cac phuang tien thdng tin dai chiing, tham chi bao chi ca nudc dung nhihig ngdn tu kha manh vdn thudng dimg trong quan sy nhu "chidn dich", "cupc chien", "dgt ra quan", "xuat quan", "dpt kich", "do b p " . . . dd ghi lai tinh hinh nay d Ha Npi va Tp. Hd Chi Minh. Thyc ra thi vide quan ly su dyng via he, long dudng da dugc de cap tu nam 1995 trong Nghi dinh 36/CP ve bao dam trat ty an toan giao thdng dudng bp va tiat ty an toan giao thdng dd thi. Ridng vdi dia ban Ha Ndi, van dd nay da ghi ro trong Quydt dinh 63/2003/QD- UBND va sau do dugc thay the bang Quydt dinh 227/2006/QD-UBND ap dyng tii ngay 22/2/2006, song cdng tac trien khai thyc hien cdn hgn chd. Ddn thdi diem dau nam 2017 vdi sy quydt tam cua lanh dao thanh phd Ha Npi, chidn dich nay dugc trien khai quydt liet, ddng bp va bao chi ggi chidn dich nay d Ha Npi la "chidn dich ban tay sat" bat dau tu quan trung tam Hoan Kiem.
Ci Tp. Ho Chi Minh vide tiidn khai cdn quydt liet hon vdi sy ndi len cua dng Doan Nggc Hai (Phd Chu tich UBND quan 1), khi dng kien quydt ra quan de dep sach via he, xu ly nghiem cac sai pham de tta lgi via he cho ngudi di bp. Song, chi sau mpt vai thang trien khai, dng Doan Ngpc Hai phai dung lai va sau do thfta nhan la chidn dich that bai va dng xin tu chftc vao dau nam 2018. 6 H a N p i , khdng dn ao nhu Tp. Ho Chi Minh nhung bao chi cung da ndi nhidu den hidu qua vd cung khidm tdn cua chidn dich nay, nhu: "dn ao rdi Iai diu em", "da nem ao beo", "danh trdng bd
dui", "Ha Npi van y nguyen", "meo Iai hoan meo", " b i t cdc bd dia", "nhu con mua rao thoang qua rdi ehgt tat" [8], [9]-
Tir gdc nhm van hda, cac hien tucmg nay ggi ra nhidu cau hdi, vi sao cac chien dich nay lai thit bai, via he la cua ai, cupc sdng dien ra d via he thd nao... Cd le van dd via he can dugc nhin nhgn d gdc nhin da chieu hon va gan kdt vdi boi canh va cupc sdng cua chinh nd mpt each chat che hon.
Tren phuong dien Iy thuydt, James C.
Scott ttong cdng trinh Seeing Like a State:
How Certain Schemes to Improve the Human Condition Have Failed (Nhin gidng nhu Nha nudc: cac kd hogch cai thien tinh ttang con ngudi da that bai the nao) [5] da ban den phuang thuc quan ly cua Nha nudc va ddi sdng thuc te cua xa hpi. Ong cho rang: "Ddi sdng xa hpi vdn dien ra ty nhidn vdi nhidu phuc tap, da tang, da nghia, nhieu mdi quan he dan xen, phftc tap va rang huge, Nha nudc mudn quan ly ddi sdng xa hpi ay mpt each dd dang hon thudng phai tidu chuan hda, lam cho nd ttd nen dd nhgn dien hon va don gian hon. Tuy nhidn khi cac chuong ttinh, cac kd hogch Idn ciia Nha nudc ttidn khai vdi muc dich mang lai didu tdt dep cho ngudi dan nhung Igi dimg cac tieu chudn mang tinh chit hanh chinh ap xudng va nhgn didn ddi sdng cua ngudi dan mpt each dan gian, mdt chidu khidn cho cac chuang tiinh, dy an nay thit bai va ttong nliidu trudng hgp tao thdm ra nhftng phftc tgp mdi, tham chi la nhimg va cham, mdu thuin" [5]. Lugn diem nay cua James C.Scott dugc chung tdi van dung dd xem xet van hda via he ttong cac each nhin nhan khac nhau, chung tdi cho ring via he Ha Ngi cd ddi sdng van hda da nghia, phftc tgp va da chidu hon nhidu so vdi each nhin
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Nguyen Thi Phucmg Cham nhan cua cac co quan quan ly va de hidu ro
vd van hda via he, nhin ra cac chidu tuong tac cua nd cdn cai nhin tu bdn ttong, tu chinh cac thyc hanh van hda da dang dang dien ra d via he. Bdn cgnh dd, David Koh
^ttong cdng ttinh Wards of Hanoi (Phudng d Ha Npi) [3] ciing tap trung nghidn cuu sy khac nhau ttong cac ca chd chinh sach quan ly, kidm soat d tam vT md (Nha nudc) va vide thyc hidn cac chinh sach do d cap co sd (cu the la phudng). Ong cho rang cac co che quan ly, kiem soat d tam nha nudc rat chat nhung dugc ndi long bang co chd hda giai, thoa hiep d cap dia phuang. Tu luan diem nay, chiing tdi se xem xet cac chieu tuong tac cua cac bdn lien quan ttong thyc hanh van hda via he d Ha Npi.
Vdi su phat ttien nhanh chdng ciia Ha Ndi hidn nay, via he ciing rat da dang vdi nhirng cdng nang su dung khac nhau, vi nhu via he khu vyc phd cd, via he cac khu pho mdi, via he d cac khu chung cu, khu do thi... song ttong bai vidt nay chiing tdi tap trung ban tdi khdng gian van hda via he khu vyc phd tnmg tam Ha Npi, khu vyc quan Hoan Kidm va mpt phan quan Hai Ba Trung (dia ban cac phudng Ngd Thi Nham, Thi Sach, Ham Long) - noi via he dugc hinh thanh sdm va ludn sdng dpng.
2. Via he Ha Npi - khong gian van hda dac thii
Di cung vdi sy bien chuydn nhanh chdng ciia ddi sdng xa hpi, khai nidm van hda ciing ludn bien ddi phu hgp vdi timg bdi canh va nhan quan thdi dai. Van hda hidn nay dugc xem la cd mat tiong tdt ca mgi Iinh vyc cua ddi sdng xa hpi, vi vay van hda dugc dimg ghep vdi cac Imh vyc (van hda
giao thdng, van hda du lich, van hda ngoai giao, van hda quan Iy...), ghep vdi cac khdng gian (van hda bien, van hda nui, van hda chau thd...), vdi cac logi hinh (van hda dgc, van hda nghe nhin, van hda trung bay...), vdi cac hidn tugng xa hpi (van hda phong bi, van hda nhau, van hda dd Idi...) dd hinh thanh nhiing khai nidm thao tac edn thiet trong timg van de cy thd. Van hda via he ciing la mpt khai nidm dd chi mdt Iogi hinh van hda, mpt noi chdn van hda va tiai nghidm van hda cua nhieu ddi tugng lien quan. Van hda via he bao gdm tat ca cac khia canh cua ddi sdng van hda dien ra va lien quan den khdng gian via he. Trong khudn khd bai vidt nay chung tdi nhan manh den mpt sd khia cgnh chinh nhu:
khdng gian van hda cua via he; sy gan kdt cua via he ttong ddi sdng van hda, xa hpi va tuong tac van hda cua nhiing ddi tugng lien quan den via he.
Vao cudi thd ky XIX sau khi Phap chiem Ha Npi, nam 1883, ngudi Phap da cai tao va quy hoach cac con phd quanh Ho Guom va via he Trang Tidn. Day dugc xem la nhung via he ddu tidn theo kidu Phucmg Tay d Ha Npi. Sau do, dan dan khu vyc 36 phd phudng ciia Ha Npi deu co via he.
Ngudi Phap ciing da cho thud via he de ngudi dan md cua hang budn ban, den dau thd ky XX khi xudt hien mpt sd khach san sang quanh H6 Guom thi cac khach sgn nay da thud via he md cac quan ca phe dgc theo cac mai hidn, nhung quan ca phd nay rat dugc ua thich va cd le "ca phd via he" xuat hien tu do. Nhu vgy, ngay tft khi ra ddi, via he da khdng dcm thudn la khdng gian vat ly vdi chuc nang danh cho ngudi di bp ma cdn la khdng gian tich hgp nhidu ydu td van hda khac. Qua khao sat, nghien cftu, chiing tdi
Khoa hoc xa hoi Viet Nam, so 12 - 2019 nhan thay via he Ha Noi c6 nhung khong gian sau:
Khong gian kinh te: rat nhieu lioat dong kinh tl da dang va linli hoat diln ra 6 via ' he, ttr viec ban liang an, uong. rau xanh, thit ca... den d6 dung, do luu niem, nhu yeu phjm, may moc thiet bi... ttr cac dich vu sua chtta, tieu dimg den vice d6i ngoai te, mua ban cac loai ve, chg lao dong,...
khong chi cac hoat dong kinh te tu nhan ma con ca cac hoat dpng kinh doanh co to chtic, khong chi duy tri cac hoat dong kinh tl cua tdng lap binh dan ma con ca cvia cac tSng lap trung luu va gian co.
Khong gian sinh hogl: via he la noi diln ra nhiing sinh hoat thuang ngay cia nguai dan, ho c6 thi goi dSu, giat giii, rira rau, vo gao, n4u nuang, luoc banli chtmg ngay Tit... Khi gia dinh co viec, via he cung la noi nguoi dan dtrng rap lam dam cuoi, 4am tang hay t6 chirc cac hoat dpng tap the nhu:
tit Trung thu, tit thilu nhi 1/6, lien hoan khu pho...
Khong gian xa hoi: via he la noi co mat du cac tang lop xa hpi, du cac hinh thilc the hien van hoa, img xit, dii cac each kiem sing, dli cac kilu ngon ngil dugc sir dung, dil cac can chuyen dugc cliia se, tit cac cau chuyen dgi thuang din cac cau chuyen thgi su ciia xa hpi, "thong tin xa via he" la nhu vay, cap nhat va lan toa co khi con nhanh hgn ca nguon thong tin chinh thilc.
Khong gian nghe thuat: via he la noi ro nhat dl nhin ra nhung su chuyin dpng cua pho phutmg, cua nhiiiig dong nguai xc qua lai, nhung ganh hang rong du mau sac, nhung ngttai lam nghe khoe sit tai kheo, nhiing loai dl an, thirc u6ng pho bay ca each lam, nhQng loai Mnh nghe thu|t da dang dugc sang tao va trinh dien tai cho, roi
nhitag mai nha, 6 cua, nhimg hang quan tap nap, nliilng am thanli cuoc song... '^' ^^
lam nen mpt dcri s6ng nghe thuat nhieu sae mau va dac biet hap dan du khach.
Khong gian ky lie: via he gJn vai nhiing ky niem, hoai niem vcd nhung mon an quen thupc. voi nhiing cau ehao hoi, nhiing giao tilp xa hpi... via he gSn vai nh&ng con nguoi, canh vat, nhitng hang cay, goc pho nhu nhttng ehiing nhan ciia lich sti... tatca di vao ky uc, tro thanh ky lie ma moi nguoi da timg c6 trai nghiem do khong quen dupc va ky lie ay theo suot hp trong cupc doi, dl moi khi di xa hp lupn nhg ve, moi khi tra vl hp muln trai nghiem. Ky uc vl via he Ha Npi da va van dang c6 doi sing sinh dpng trong thuc tl cung nhu trong thi ca, nhae hpa (tranh phi Ha Npi Clia Bill Xuan Phai, Nguyen Trucmg hay bai hat Nguoi Ha Npi Nguyln Dinh Thi voi "Song vui phi he/ Boi hii chang trai/
Nhiing doi mat nao"...).
Nhin a khia canh van hoa, via he Ha Noi la mpt khong gian dac thil ma tir khi xu5t hien cho din nay con nguai da khong ngung tao y nghta cho no va do ciing la qua trinh sang tao van hoa dua via he ttr khong gian vat ly tra thanh mot khpng gian van hoa. Cho den nay van hoa via he tra thanh mpt phan vo ciing quan trpng trong biic tranh van hoa do thi Ha Npi.
3. Via he trong floi song van hoa cua Ha Noi
"Via he la cupe sing cua nguoi Ha Npi, cai dit thil do nay ma khong eon van hoa via he, bia hai, tra da, ca phe, bun banh...
khong eon tu tap via he, chgi bai, mua ban
Nguyen Thi Phucmg Cham ttdn via he... thi cdn cai gi nua" (Ong
Nguyen Thich, 78 tudi, phd Phan Chu Trinh).
Vi sao via he Igi gin bd vdi ddi sdng cua ngudi Ha Npi ddn nhu vgy, vi sao nhiing he phd chat hep ay lai Iam gdp phan khdng nhd lam nen ca phdn hdn cho thu dd nhu vay?
Vdi mdi ngucri dan Ha Npi, via he ludn sdng dpng, la chd an chd choi, chd tu hgp bgn be, chd mua ban, sua chfta, su dyng dich vu, cho chia se thdng tin, cho thudng thuc nghd thuat, chd the hien sir sanh didu va hien nay nhieu via he Ha Npi trd thanh dia didm "check in" hap dan gidi tie nhu phd Hang Ma, phd Ta Hidn, phd Nha Thd... Ngudi Ha Ndi thyc sy da sdng eupc sdng day mau sac va sdi dpng tren via he, da gan bd vdi via he tft thdi tho au cho den khi ve gia, via he da trd thanh mpt phan ttong cupc ddi cua hg, sdng trong ky uc ciia hp. Nhu vay via he Ha Ndi da khdng cdn don thuan la via he vdi cdng nang vat ly, ky thuat nfta ma da dugc tao dyng thanh "noi chdn van hda". Noi chdn nay khdng chi y nghia vdi ngucri Ha Ndi ma cdn rat hap dan khach du Iich va chinh khach du Iich cung da gdp phan Iam cho via he Ha Npi trd dianh "noi chdn van hda" mpt each sdng dpng. Mpt nha nghien ciiu van hda thudng xuyen ngdi tra da via he phd Tran Xudn Soan khang dinh: "Via he chinh la mpt noi chdn van hda. Dd th; se chdt ndu khdng cd
"nai chdn van hda". Trong mpt khao sat dugc chiing tdi thyc hien tft ndm 2010 d quan Cam, bang California, Hoa Ky vdi mpt sd ngudi Viet Nam gdc Bic dang Iam viec d dd, chiing tdi dugc hg chia se vd ndi nhd Ha Npi, co ngudi ndi nhd Ha Npi la nhd quan nudc dau phd hay ngdi tu tap bgn be, ngudi nhd vi phd Bat Dan, ngudi Iai nhd cac hang qua vat, ngudi nhd quan ca phd Lam, ca phd Giang, ngudi nhd tieng rao
ddm... nhin Igi chung tdi nhgn thdy cac ndi nhd cua hg deu lidn quan ddn via he, ddn nhung net van hda dugc tgo dyng ttdn khdng gian he pho. Via he Ha Npi la noi chdn ghi dau cupc sdng moi ngay ciia ngucri dan, la noi chdn cho nhung ngucri di xa nhd vd, la noi luu gift ky uc trong cupc ddi mdi ngudi va noi ay thyc sy la "noi chdn van hda", gdp phan quan ttgng tgo ndn phdn hdn cho thu do.
Sdi dpng bac nhat trdn via he Ha Npi cd le la hogt dpng lidn quan ddn am thuc.
Chinh hogt dpng nay da gdp phan tao dyng, duy tri va Iam giau cho van hda am thuc va dinh hinh "van hda bet" d Ha Npi. Van hda am thuc d Ha Npi rat da dang va lam nen sy da dgng do chinh la vd sd cac mdn an cd mat ttdn cac via he. Ngudi Ha Npi thich an udng d via he khdng chi vi su tidn Igi (cho nao ttdn via he cung cd hang an udng, nhidu lya chgn), gia ca phu hgp (ludn re hon tiong cac quan an, nha hang) hay sy phong phu cua cac mdn an, do udng (da dang chiing Ioai, each thftc chd bidn va thudng thftc, theo thdi gian trong ngay, theo mua hay theo chat va vi...) ma cdn vi khdng gian an udng, phong each an udng, su giao tidp khi an udng, nhin ngdm qua trinh lam ra dd an thftc uong va ca khdng khi phd phudng xung quanh. Do an thuc udng via he Ha Npi dac biet ngon va mang diing chat Ha Npi, nhirng ganh phd, biin thang, biin cha, bun dc, biin ridu, biin dau, banh cudn, rdi nhiing thung xdi lua, xdi cdm, banh gid... da gdi ttgn ca tinh hoa am thuc Ha Ndi tu bao ddi ma sau nay khi chiing xuat hidn ttong cac nha hang, khach san sang ttgng nhung Igi khdng the ngon dugc nhu d cac hang via he. Vdi ngudi dan Ha Npi dm thyc via he da tid thanh mpt phdn tat ydu trong cupc sdng va vdi du khach am thyc Ha Npi ludn
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Khoahpcxahoi VietNam, so 12 -2019 tinh td, hap dan va trd thanh thd mgnh keo hp den vdi thanh phd nay. Am thyc via he phd bidn d Ha Npi ddn muc hinh thanh nen mpt kieu van hda dugc ggi la "van hda bet"
tuc la ngdi an udng bet xudng dat (cd Idt td bao hay manh bia) hogc ngdi ghe con rat thap, cd ban hoac khdng cd ban hoac dimg ludn ghe Iam ban. Tren cac via he Ha Npi, hinh anh quen thupc la nhung hang an vdi ganh, hpp, bep, xoong, ndi lup xup vdi thyc khach ngdi quay xung quanh, nhirng hang ca phe, tia da, tta chanh d khap cac gdc phd, ben hien nha, nhftng met hang rong qua lai tren cac con phd, khi cd khach la ca ngudi ban, ngudi mua ddu ngdi bet xudng de xem hang, can, dong, dem. "Van hda bet" ludn tgo ra cam giac gan gui, than thien, cdi md, tuoi vui nhung lai phong each. Khdng phai ngau nhidn ma am thyc via he Ha Npi ndi tidng trdn thd gidi khi lien tuc Ipt vao danh saeh binh chpn ciia cac trang bao ndi tieng. Nam 2016, theo binh chon cua tap chi Telegraph (Anh), Ha Npi dung dau danh sach nhung thanh phd CO am thyc hap dan nhat the gidi, Thang 7/2019, td The Guardian (Anh) vua binh chgn 20 dia didm cd tour du lich am thyc tdt nhat the gidi. Ha Npi gop mat trong danh sach nay.
Ben cgnh am thyc, da dang cac hoat dpng kinh td khac dien ra tren via he da ddng gdp mpt phan khdng nhd vao viec thiic day tang trudng kinh te va cai thien sinh ke ciia nhidu nhdm xa hpi, dac bipt la nhom lao dpng ngheo. Theo dieu tra ciia tac gia Annette Kim d Tp. Hd Chi Minh, nam 2014 kinh te via he cung ftng khoang 20%
vide Iam va luong thyc cho thanh phd [6], mpt ket qua nghien cftu khac vao nam 2016 kinh td via he Tp. Hd Chi Minh cung ung ddn 30% viec lam va dap ftng khoang 30%
nhu cau an udng cua ngudi dan [10]- ^^^
chiing tdi chua cd con sd cy the cua Ha Ngi song chac chdn cimg khdng khac nhidu so vdi via he Tp. Hd Chi Minh va nhu vgy rd rang kinh te via he cd vi tri quan ttgng.
Tren via he Ha Ndi hdu nhu mat hang nao ttong nhdm hang luang thyc, thyc pham, do an thftc udng va cac nhu ydu pham thiet ydu cung cd, ngudi dan Ha Npi quen vdi vide mua ban hang d via hd va dan dan thich cac ttao ddi mua ban via he vi sy tidn Igi, gia re, dugc mac ca, dugc trao ddi vui ve, dugc binh pham thoai mai, tham chi cd the dugc so che giup... dieu nay thyc su khdng co dugc khi mua ban d sidu thi. Quan sat tten dac con phd cd cua Ha Ndi rat de dang de chung ta nhan thay cac hogt dpng kinh te dien ra sdi ndi, da dgng, phong phu, cd sy lien ket va phu thupc Ian nhau, day la dang hoat dpng kinh td dac bidt vi ngoai muc tieu lgi nhuan cdn cd muc tidu xa hpi, tinh cam, tgo su quen bidt, tin cay, trg giup... ndn de gan kdt va rang bupe. Cac hoat dpng kinh te via he nay da nudi sdng mpt bp phgn khdng nhd nhiing ngudi lao ddng ngheo, nhftng ngudi "sdng bam vao he phd" nhu Idi cd Tam ban hoa qua rong khu vyc phd cd ty ndi vd minh va nhihig ngudi "ciing hpi cimg thuyen" cua cd. Theo cd, dpi ngu nay ddng ddy, tu nhidu tinh ldn, ciing cd HaNpi nua, ngay ngay lugn khdp phd cd. Thu nhap cua nhdm ban hang rong nay cung nhu nhdm nhftng ngucri lam dich vu d via he khdng cao nhung cung khdng te, cd thd giup hp dugc nhieu trong cupc song, Cd Tam kidm dugc khoang 200-300 nghin ddng/ngay, sd tidn nay giiip cd nudi sdng dugc ban than ttg d Ha Npi va con tidt kidm giri vd que dugc. Nhdm ban hang rong via he nhu cd Tam chi la mpt nhom, cdn cd nhieu nhdm "sdng bam vao he phd" khac
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Nguydn Thi Phuong Cham nfta nhu nhung ngudi thg sfta do, ban do
gia dung, luu nipm, dd an udng, iam dich vu... hg ddu kidm sdng dugc, ho vui ve vi didu dd va cho rang: khdng cdn via he nhu thd nay nua thi chiing tdi sdng bang gi?. Via he Ha Npi tap trung da dang, phong phii cac hoat dpng kinh td dac bidt hap dan khach du Iich va phat tridn dugc kinh td du lich, cai thien sinh kd cho nhdm ngudi ngheo va lao dpng phd thdng, ddng gdp hipu qua vao kinh te thu do.
Vide an udng, mua ban, tu tap chuyen phiem tien via he da tid nen vd cftng quen thupc d bat cu con phd nao d trung tam Ha Npi vi via he duy tri tinh dan chu, binh ding ttong giao tidp. Via he Ha Npi, vdi tinh chat dac biet sdi ndi va sdng dpng cua no ttong an udng, mua ban, sinh hoat nen ciing CO da dgng cac thanh phan xa hpi xuat hien ttdn via he song it cd su phan bidt vd dia vi, dang cap, dieu kidn kinh td d day, vi nhu da ngdi hang an udng ttdn via he thi ai cung nhu ai, deu dugc phuc vu nhu nhau, hp ciing thoai mai ndi chuyen vdi nhau du chua quen bidt, ciing cd the gop chuydn, binh Iugn... Mpt bac la can bp nganh van hoa vd huu hay ngdi tta chen phd Nguydn Hiru Huan cho rang: ngdi tta chen d via he nay chu ydu la cai thu thdi, thii ndi chuydn rdng dai, thdy thoai mai, noi cd ngudi nghe, ai noi chu de nao la cd ngudi ban tan cftng ngay, la cai vui. Trong khdng gian chat hep cua via he, chd ngdi rdi ban ghd ddu khdng the thoai mai ndn con ngudi ciing gan gui nhau hon, de dang bat chuyen vdi nhau hem, each xung hd cung khdng cdn nhin mat hay hdi tudi chat che lim. Npi dung cac cau chuydn tidn via he cang thoai mai, tu chuyen ttong nha ddn ngoai ngd, tft chuydn chinh tri ddn giao tiidng, tft tiidi tidt ddn bong da, tft tham nhung ddn thi cu... nhidu
chuydn vdn phai rdt de dat trong cac khdng gian khac nhung d day ddu cd tiid noi dugc, ban tan, phan tich dugc, ndi chuyen gi cung cd ngudi tham gia dugc va tham gia bat cft lue nao, vua Iam vua gdp chuyen, vua ban hang, mua hang vfta gdp chuypn... ngudi gdp chuypn khdng cft tie hay gia, ttai hay gai, khach hay chu, ngucri Ig hay quen, ngudi Viet Nam hay ngudi nudc ngoai. Tdt ca tgo ra bau khdng khi dan chu va binh dang tiong giao tidp xa hpi trdn via he.
Chinh vi sy dan chu va binh dang nay ma nhidu nha nghien ciiu nudc ngoai da "le la",
"budn ehuyen" khap cac via he, thu lugm dugc nhidu vdn sdng va cac cau chuyen via he va dd ttd thanh ngudn tu lieu huu ich giup hg vidt ra nhiing cdng ttinh nghien ciiu sau sac ve van hoa Viet Nam. Vi nhu, Conor Lauesen vdi Hd Ndi trong mdt mdt nguai My (2011), Martin Rama vdi Hd Ndi mdt chdn rong chai, Kim, Aimette Miae vdi Sidewalk City: Remapping Public Space in Hd Chi Minh city (2015), Eric Harms vdi Luxury and Rubble: Civility and Dispossession in the New Saigon (2016)...
Via he, nhin qua cd the ai dd nghT la Ipn xpn, la phftc tap song thyc chat Iai khdng han nhu vgy, d moi mpt khu vyc, mpt qudc gia, mpt vung mien via he lai cd nhiing net ridng va nhftng hoat ddng ttdn via he Ha Npi ciing giup tao dyng phong each van hda ridng cho Ha Npi. Tac gia Martin Rama da cho ring: "(3 Ha Npi cd mpt ndn "van hda via he". Mgi ngudi an udng, giao luu, kidm sdng, hen hd, mua ban... d ngoai dudng.
Khdng phai ngdu nhidn ma ngudi nudc ngoai rdt ydu Ha Npi" [2]. Via he Ha Npi, dgc bidt la via he pho cd Ha Npi dgc sac d cac mat hang dugc bay ban, moi mat hang gan vdi mpt tdn phd: phd Hang Ma ban do ma va dd chcri trung thu, phd Hang Budm ban banh
Khoa hpc xa hpi Viet Nam, sd 12 - 2019 keo, phd Hang Dao ban quan ao may sSn, phd Hang Dau ban giay dep... mdi mdn an dugc xem la dgc san cua Ha Npi ciing gan vdi cac he phd: biin cha Hang Manh, phd Thin Ld Diic, kem xdi Hai Ba Trung, ndm bo khd hd Hoan Kiem, banh tdm Hang Bd, bun dc Hang Chai, biin dau Phat Lpc, biin thang Hang Hanh, midn luon Phu Doan...
Ben canh do, each thudng thftc am tiiyc via he ciing tao ndn net ridng, rat khd ggi ten song cd thd xem do la sy "khd" ttong thudng thuc vi cac quan via he thidu khdng gian vat chat cdn thidt cho vide an, phuc vu thidu chuydn nghiep, on ao, tiiudng xuydn phai
"ehgy" do lan chiem via he bi dep... khach hang cua nhung quan nay chu ydu la ngdi xdm, ghe nhya rdt nhd, khdng ban, nhieu khi phai xdp hang dai chd dgi, khi an thyc khach ngdi san sat nhau, chua an xong da cd ngudi khac dftng chd dd lay cho... Didu dang ndi la thuc khach phai khd sd nhu vay khdng phai vi ham re (vi thue chat gia ca d cac quan via he khdng he re, nhidu quan kha dat), cung khdng han chi \a dd an qua ngon ma cd Ie vi ca nhirng "thuong hidu", nhirng "vj giac" ggi nhd ky uc vi nhu ganh biin oc chuan huong vi Ha Npi da ban 40 nam, cac quan ca phe Nhan, NhT, DT, Giang ggi nhd vd huong vi ca phd cua mpt Ha Ndi cd kinh tu nhimg nam 40 cua thd ky trudc (ca phd Giang ra ddi nam 1946). Cd Ie chinh cai "thu" cua ngudi Ha Npi: tiiu an, thu chai, thu di Iang tiiang ttdn cac he phd, thu "giao luu... ngoai dudng"
(nhu each noi cda Martin Rama) da gdp phan tgo nen phong each rieng cho Ha Npi.
Via he Ha Ndi cd mpt ddi sdng sdi ddng, nhidu sic thai, gin vdi ddi sdng hang ngay cua ngudi dan. Van hda via he thyc sy tid thanh mpt khai niem da nghia va la mpt mang mau dam net trong trong buc tranh van hda Ha Npi dd mdi khi ndi tdi Ha Npi
ngudi ta khdng thd khdng nhic tdi van hoa via he, du d thai cyc nao (ddng tinh hay phan ddi).
4. Via he Ha Noi trong cac chieu tuong tac Lien quan den via he va vdn hda via he Ha Npi, cd rat nhieu quan diem, gdc nhin khac nhau: nha quan 1^ nhin via he nhu mdt khdng gian cdng vdi nhiing sy ldn xpn, phftc tap, khdng van minh, tham chi la nhdch nhac va qud mua; nha quy hoach dd thi nhin via he nhu mpt khdng gian trung gian giua ttong nha va dudng phd, gifta khdng gian cdng va khdng gian tu vdi cdng nang chu ydu la danh cho ngudi di bp va chua hg tang ky thuat; nha sft hgc nhin via he nhu mpt noi ghi dau an cua thai gian ma nhin vao do se bidt dugc nhimg budc di cua Iich sft thanh phd; nha van hda xem via he la mpt khdng gian van hda, mpt noi chdn van hda vdi su da dang va sdng dpng cua cac thuc hanh van hda va cac thyc hanh van hda ay chuydn tai nhidu thdng diep chinh tti, kinh te, xa hdi; nha kinh td nhin via he la ca hpi kinh doanh, quang ba san pham;
khach du Iich xem via he nhu mpt noi chdn de quan sat, de giai tti, giao luu va ttai nghidm cupc sdng cua ngudi Ha Npi; ngudi ddn dang muu sinh ttdn via he nhin via he la noi Iam an, kiem sdng; ngudi dan khdng muu sinh ttdn via he xem via he la ncri chdn an uong, mua ban, giai tii, giftp hg dap ftng nhu cau cupc sdng mpt each nhanh chdng vi thuan tien nhat, ca nhu cau vat chat Ian tinh thdn. Cac each nhin khac nhau nay cd luc va cham, mau thuin nhau song vd co ban la tirang tac dugc vdi nhau, tdn tgi cung nhau tao ra tinh da nghia cho van hda via he.
Nguyln Thi Phuong Cham Vdi khdng gian vat chdt khidm tdn nhung
xet vd mat chuc nang thi via he Ha Npi la khdng gian da chftc hang. Via he d cac khu phd trung tam Ha Ndi chua bao gid chi cd chuc nang sft dung duy nhat la dd di bp, danh cho ngudi di bp ma cdn rat nhidu chuc nang khac nhau, phy thupc vao dieu kien, tmh chat cda mdi via he. Cac he phd Ha Npi duy tri chftc nang chuydn tiep khdng gian (gifta tiong nha va dudng phd, giira cdng va tu), chuc nang thuang mai, chftc nang giao tiep xa hpi, chftc nang thdng tin, chftc nang tham my...
Trong khdng gian da chftc nang ay ai la ngudi sd hiiu via he? Cau tta ldi chac chan khdng phai la mpt ngudi ma via he la khdng gian da sd hftu. Via he khdng chi cua ngudi dan ma cdn cfta Nha nudc, cfta nhftng nha quan I;^, cua nhung co quan, cdng sd va phan nao dd cua ca khach du Iich. Via he bao gid Cling la mpt khdng gian sdi dpng va 1 ^ ndn sy sdi dpng ay chinh la nhftng ngudi CO mat d dd. Ddng dao nhdt tten via he la ngudi dan nhung day khdng phai la ddng nhat, hg gdm nhieu nhdm khac nhau:
ngudi sinh sdng cd dinh d phd cd via he, ngudi thud via he kinh doanh cd dinh, ngudi ban rong, ngudi thy hudng cac Ioai hinh dich vu va cac sinh hoat ttdn via he, ttong do cd khach du lich... Ngoai ra, cd mat thudng xuydn ttdn via he cdn la cac lyc lugng chftc nang Iam cdng tac dep via he ... Nhu vgy, cd nhidu nhdm xa hpi khac nhau tham gia sft dung va hoat dpng trdn yia hd ndn via he ttd thanh khdng gian tuong tac kha dac bidt, tiong do cd hai mdi tuong tac can ban la gifta ngudi dan va cac CO quan quan ly va gifta nhftng ngudi dan vdi nhau trdn via he.
Trong tu duy cua cac co quan quan Iy dd till thi via he la noi Ipn xpn, phuc tap, noi ngudi dan phdn ldn chiem dung khdng gian
cdng... ndn tiong "cupc chidn via he", cac CO quan quan Iy ndu cao khdu hidu "gianh giat via he", "ddi lai via he", "lap lgi ttat ty via he"... Trong con mat cua hg ngudi dan la ngudi chidm dung via he dd budn ban ma chu yeu la "budn thung ban met" nen cdn ddi lgi va thdng diep dua ra la "gianh Igi via he cho ngudi di bp". Day chinh la each hidu theo kidu dan gian hda vdn de vdn phuc tgp, tu nhidn nhu James C. Scott da ban tdi, via he, nhat la via he cac phd tnmg tam Ha Npi chua bao gid chi danh cho ngudi di bp ngay tft khi hinh thanh via he ma dd la khdng gian da tang da nghia, da bieu hien, da sd huu... nhu chftng tdi da phan tich d tidn. Cach nhin nhan khac nhau nay da dan den vide cac co quan quan ly ludn cd gang lap lai tiat ty via he theo nhftng quy chuan, thucmg xuydn phan cdng lyc lugng chftc nang di kiem tta, giam sat, thu gift hang hda, CO sd vat chat, cam ban hang rong, cam ngudi dan bay ban ttdn via he... Ngudi ddn khi bi nhac nhd, thu gift, phat thi chap hanh, xong Igi thdi, mpi vide mua ban, an udng Igi dien ra binh thudng nhung hai ben ludn cd su "canh chftng" nhau. Canh tugng phd bidn tten via he Ha Npi la khi lyc lugng chftc nang den thi ngudi dan nhao nhac chay vao cac ngd, cac nha hogc day dd dang ban Igi hoac keo Ifti vao nha... Mpt chi chu cfta hang giay dep phd Hang Dau da ndi rang: chi khdng bidt van hda via he via hide gi nhung cd ca ttam each ttanh va chay cdng an, trat ty d day co khi cflng van hda iy, va quan trgng la sau khi cac lyc lugng nay di qua thi via he Iai ttd vd nhu cu, lgi sdi dpng, tip nap vipc mua ban, an udng, lam nghd va ttanh, chay cac lyc lugng chftc nang dep via he da la mpt ky nang, mpt thyc hanh van hda thudng ngay tten cac he phd Ha Npi.
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Khoa hpc xa hpi VietNam, so 12 - 2019 Dieu dang quan tam la cac tieu chuan dupe dua ra trong "cupc chien via he" do dugc khuon dinh bang khai niem van minh do thi gSn vai cac tieu chi sach se, trat ttr, ngan nkp, hien dai, trong khi do, via he lai la mpt noi chin song dpng, da nang, da so hiiu, van hoa via he voi su da tang, da nghia, da bilu hien thuc su vugt ra ngoai su bao quat ciia cac chuan muc dinh san cung nhu each hiln da dugc dgn gian hoa ma Nha nuoc dua ra. Diing nhu James. C. Scott (1999) da khang dinh: "Viec quan ly theo cac goc nhin tieu chuan hoa, dcm gian hoa nhu thi ducmg nhien la kho eo t h i dat hieu qua, nhip dieu: bay ra - dep - chay/thu vao - bay ra tro thanh nhip dieu binh thugng va quen thupc g via he va su thoa hiep, thugng thao giua hai ben la tit yeu dien ra" [4]. Do la thoa hiep gitta ly va tinh, giOa luat phap va su thong cam, gitta nhiing su "ra quan",
"theo doi", "bat phat"... va chiln lupc ilng pho kilu "du kich", "che mat", "bao cho nhau", "nha nhau"... Trong nhieu truang hap su thoa hiep biln thanh su dan x i p de
"doi ben ciuig co lgi", "biet h i t nhtmg viec phai lam thi vdn lam thoi", "cling mat nhim mat m a ma cho qua", "la di la chinh"... nhu loi cua nhilu nguoi dan noi v l ling xir cua cac luc lugng chirc nang dep via he voi hp. N h u vay, quan he gitta cac luc lugng chile nang dep via he vgi ngugi dan sinh sing, lam an, buon ban tren via he khong chi co va cham, mau thuan ma gitta hai ben da co nhihig su thoa hiep, dan xip. Nhung gi la chuin muc, la quy dinh trong cac chinh sach g t i m vi mo da dugc triln khai mpt each h i t siic linh hoat va theo mpt each rieng o t i m vi mn, gan vgi thuc t l s i n g dpng ciia cac thuc hanh van hoa g via he Ha Npi.
Khae vcri su hinh dung ciia cac nha quan ly do thi cung nhu cua khong it nguai ve su Ipn xpn, phuc tap ciia via he, nhung nguoi dan dang lam in, sinh song tten via he lat dang duy tti mpt sir "dan xep on ca", Ipn xpn nhtmg eo sap xep het", "nhin nhau va bao nhau dugc", "bilt y bilt dilu"... nhu chinh each hp noi v l moi quan he gifta hp vai nhau tten via he. Ong Nhan, 78 tuoi sinh ra va lan len 6 p h i Bach Mai, la cuu chiln bmh x u i t ngii nam 1984, hien s5ng 6 p h i c i u Go da giai thich ro cho chiing toi v l su dan x i p gitta nhiing nguai dan tten via he: vi no da thanh n i p nen chinh ra tren via he khong cai nhau may dau, ma cai cai nhau, tham ehi danh nhau nhieu la g nguoi tham gia giao thong dudi long dugng ay.
Toi nght t h i nay, duoi duong no xo bo, nhilu khi lai la m i t van hoa han la tten via he, boi vi ai nguoi ta ciing noi duong chac chan la cua Nha nugc nen khong ai co trach nhiSm. Con tren via he mang tiing la lan chilm lung ttmg cua nha nuoc nhtmg nguoi ta lai lam kieu biet y, biet dieu dy, cho nen dan voi nhau khong eo lgi qua tieng lai miy, nguoi ta song bang tinh cam chil khong phai nguai dung nugc la nhu khi di xe may, 6 to. Ma tpi thay la duai diy ma co va cham la ngucfi a ttong day lai chay ra giiip la ehii yeu, chu khong phai la nhung nguai ciing tham gia giao thong giiip dau.
Nhiing ngucfi ban rong cting co n i p cua hp, nguoi ta khong bao gig len lin ch6 cua hang quan vi hp bilt dilu. Ba Luyin, 68 tuli, ban thit tren pho Trin Xuan Soan ciing noi v l mpt su dan xep khac tren via he, do la dan xep thoi gian ban hang vol nhau: goc
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Nguyen Thi Phuang Cham via he day sang cd ban tiiit, trua ddn ganh
com bmh dan, chidu chidu hang banh khoai, banh ngd, tdi thi cd hang tta chen, tidn ddng cho cdng an hay dpi ttat tir phudng thi chia nhau ra ma ddng, ddng y vdi nhau the thi mdi lam dugc lau chft. Quan sat cua chung tdi tiiiy rd gifta nhung ngudi lam an tren via he ludn cd sy dan xep hgp Iy vdi nhau de tit ca cac ben cung cd Icri va cd thd cimg nhau sdng dugc ttdn via he. Hg rat cd y thftc giftp nhau, chiing tdi da chiing kien thudng xuydn nhiing canh chay cdng an, ttat ty cac ganh hang ehgy nhd trong nha dan, trong san ca quan, cdng ty, chay vao cac ngd hoac gui do sang nhftng hang ngdi cd dinh, hg cung rit y thftc vide quet dgn gift ve sinh chung dd cd dugc cho tdt nhat CO the cho vide ban hang.
Trong sy dan xep nhy cfta ngudi ddn cdn CO sy ftng hp ciia nhiing ngudi hudng thy van hda via he, nhiing ngudi thudng xuyen mua ban, an udng, sft dyng cac dich vy ttdn via he. Hg ludn sin sang chia se sy chat hep khdng gian, sy thidu co sd vat chat, thidu sy phuc vu chu dao cua cac quan hang hay cac dich vu, nhidu khi dang an phai bd bat ehgy, dang mua ban phai chd dgi cho ngudi ban di tranh cdng an, dang ndi chuydn phai dimg... nhung hg ludn vui ve chap nhan va coi dd la vide duong nhien vdi via he.
Ndu nhin hinh thftc sy tuong tac giua Iuc lugng chftc nang dep via he va ngudi dan Iam an sinh sdng ttdn via he se ludn la sy man thuan gifta mdt bdn la dugc cip thim quyen dd dep mpt bdn la bi dep do, hay sy tuong tac gifta nhftng ngudi dan vdi nhau se ludn !a su Ipn xpn, ttanh gianh song thyc chat lgi khdng hin nhu vdy, ludn cd sy dan
xep, thda hidp tft bdn ttong giua cac bdn va chinh sy thda ludp, dan xdp nay gift vai ttd quan ttgng trong vide duy tri cac thyc hanh van hda via he Ha Npi nhu hidn nay. Chinh vi vgy, cd thd coi via he Ha Npi nhu mpt khdng gian ciia nhftng sy dan xep, thda hidp. Didu nay chia se vdi nghidn cihi cfta David Koh, dng cho rang: "Co che quan Iy, kidm soat d tam nha nude thi rit chat nhung khi thyc thi d via he thi da dugc ndi ldng bang ca che dan xdp, thda hiep" [3], dng nhan mgnh khdng gian dudng phd Ha Npi do cac phudng quan Iy la khdng gian dan xdp. Ong Ld Hdng Giang ttong mpt bai tra ldi phdng van gan day ciing da nhan manh ddn khia cgnh dan xdp tten via he de dat dugc sy can bang. 6ng cho rang: "Cai via he tdt la via he can bang hgnh phuc cho nhidu thanh phan xoay quanh nd, chft khdng chi cho rieng ngudi di bp" [II].
5. Ret luan
Nhgn didn vd via he Ha Npi, vd vai ttd cua via he ttong ddi sdng van hda ciia Ha Npi ciing cac chieu tucmg tac cua cac bdn lien quan ddn via he, cd thd nhan thay rd rang via he la mpt khdng gian van hda, mdt noi chdn van hda, noi dien ra cupc sdng thudng ngay cua ngudi dan vdi tat ca nhftng hoat dpng sinh hogt, muu sinh, giao tiep, ftng xft... Cupc song iy ludn dugc thd hien vdi tit ca nhiing chidu cgnh phong phu, da dang, phftc tap va ludn van dpng, phat tridn, bidn ddi khdng ngimg. Tat ca dinh hinh ndn van hda via he Ha Ndi vdi sy da nghia, da ting, da chftc nang, da sd huu va gan kdt chat che vdi bdi canh chinh tri, kinh td, xa
Khoa hoc xa hpi Viet Nam, so 12 - 2019 hpi va van hda cua thu dd. Neu nhin via he tu khia canh ddi sdng va van hda da chidu nhu vay, cd le nhftng no lyc tidu chuan hda, don gian hda nd dd quan ly vdi nhung bidn minh vd mpt Ha Npi van minh, tiat ty se khd dua ddn sy thanh cdng nhu y mudn.
Chu thich
^ Thoi dilm d4u n5m 2017 khi Ha Npi ra quan l|p Iai trat tu via he, c6 12 luc luong chiic nSng tham gia vao chiSn dich nky: thanh tra xay dimg, thanh tra giao thong, cong an hinh su, canh sat hinh sir, cong an phudng, trsit tu phuong, ckn bp dia chfnh, c4n bp quan ly do thi, cong nhan ph4 do, c6ng nhSn thu don, nhan vi£n thoat nudc vk nhSn vien mdi truimg do thi.
Tiki lidu tham khao
[1] Conor Lauesen (2011), Hd Ndi trong mdt mgt ngitdi My, Nxb Tri thiic, Uh Npi [2] Martin Rama (2014), Hd Ngi mdt chdn rong
chai, Nxb Thi gicri
[3] David Koh (2006), Words of Hanoi [Phudng d Hd Ngi], Institute of Southeast Asian Studies, Singapore
[4] Eric Harms (2016), Luxury and Rubble:
Civility and Dispossession in the New Saigon University of California Press.
[5] James C. Scott (1999), Seeing Like a Slate:
How Certain Schemes lo Improve the Human Condition Have Failed, Yale University Press, New Heaven, USA.
[6] Kim, Annette Miae (2015), Sidewalk City:
Remapping Public Space in H6 Chi Minh city University of Chicago press.
[7] Sarah Turner and Laura Schoenberger (2012), Street Vendor Livelihoods and Everyday Politics in Hanoi, Vietnam: The Seeds of a Diverse Economy?, Urban Studies, 49(5) 1027-1044, April 2012
[8] https://thethaovanhoa.vn/dien-dan-van- hoa/lap-lai-trat-tu-via-he-ha-noi-khong-de-on- ao-roi-lai-diu-em-n20170307151339896.htm;
[9] hltps://magazine.vov.vn/20180315/
lnamsauchiendichdepviahe/index.html truy cap ngiy 15/9/2019
[10] http://tphcm.chinhphu.vn/%E2%
80%9Cngon-ngang-bua-bai-sao-goi-la-van- hoa%E2%80%9D, tmy cap ngiy 22/4/2017 [11] http://soha.vn/ong-le-hong-giang-via-he-viet-
nam-kinh-te-mat-tien-va-kinh-te-hang-rong- 20170320145056714.htm, tray cap ngiy 28.8.2019
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