The Wanderer
Marion Island Newsletter October 2016
Island life, doing things on Marion Island
White-morph SGP
E C O
Marion to Marion
Oct 2016 1
Photo by Camilla Kotzé
“Woah, we’re half way there Woah, livin’ on a prayer Take my hand, we’ll make it I swear
Woah, livin’ on a prayer….”
However, with sunrise edging toward 6am, the longer days are met with some contention. Although an early start provides a larger window for the numerous activities demanded by breeding season, it also means 13 hour days. Time to grab that bar-one!
At the nucleus of our stay on Marion Island, I’m not the only M73 member staggered at how fast time on the island has gone. We are all reflecting on what has been accomplished and what is yet to come in the next 6 months before take-over. The winds of change on the island are blowing our way, encapsulated by the fast approach of Summer. The injection of life into the island is palpable, with an array of Southern Ocean birds returning to breed, the birth of gorilla-faced elephant seal pups, and not to mention the arrival of the Elephant seal bulls!
Photo by Camilla Kotzé
This is an exciting time for sealers and birders alike. The birders are going to be at their busiest, occupied with regular monitoring checks on the Sooty-, Grey-headed- and Light- mantled Albatrosses, as well as Giant Petrels, which are all starting to nest and incubate. The Rock-hopper and Macaroni Penguins have also begun arriving this month.
Elephant seal pups born.
Photo by Camilla Kotzé.
Albatross chicks are starting to lose their down.
Looking a bit like moth-eaten, balding old men.
First Macci arrives at Kildalkey.
Photo by Jessie Berndt.
Photo by Camilla Kotzé
“ …
”
Aaaw!
Need a toupee?
Oct 2016 2
A white-phase Southern Giant Petrel (a rare white form of these has been found nesting this month close to Rook’s Hut. This rare white form is a beautiful alteration of these,
otherwise dull coloured, birds.
Da rk -m orp h SGP
White- morph
The Giant Petrel (GP) is also known as Glutton or Stinker
SGP
due to their frenzy like behaviour displayed when feeding. These birds both scavenge and hunt, mostly penguin chicks, whale and seal carcasses. However, attacks on drowning seafarers have also been cited in the past.
With a wing span of roughly 213 cm, this bird is
Giant Petrel
Macronectes giganteus
distinguishable from the albatrosses by it’s bulkier body. It glides well in stiff winds, often requiring 4 or 5 flaps between glides. The GP appears quite clumsy and exhibits a few comical traits. First, it can often be spotted using its feet as rudders to change direction in mid-air. Second, they need a run up before taking-off. Last, their call sounds akin to that of a threatened cat gurgling a low growl or some sort of pterodactyl.
There are two types of GPs; the Northern and Southern GP, the second of which can be either a dark or white morph. White morphs make as much as 10% in some SGP populations and are typified by black spots scattered randomly through their white plumage. We have
spotted two nesting white morphs this year, one at Rooks and the other at Green Hill, Kildalkey.
Spotting these white morphs on Marion is as exciting as seeing a unicorn!
NGPs and SGPs distinguishable are by the red and green tips on
their beaks, respectively.
By Camilla Kotzé
Oct 2016 3
The weirdest invasive I have encountered this year is an Isopod,Porcellio scaber.
Our job is to assist in the development of environmental standard operating procedures (SOPs) and make sure that all activities undertaken at Marion are within the management plan. This is achieved by managing waste, controlling pollution, Implementation of the Alien Species Eradication Plan, making sure that the team personnel are complying with their permits, inspection of the field huts and assessment of the degradation of the paths
I felt like an ECO’s work is 100% inline/relevant to my field of study, apart from that I wanted to learn more about Alien Species as I never got that opportunity in South Africa.
Lol, absolutely there is no secret in this regard.
It’s just that I make sure my playlist is on point and my headsets are on then I burn the fat.
What would an island based on conservation research be without it’s environmental protectors? Taking charge are Environmental Control Officer (ECO), Zuko Nkoma with 10 Q&A, and Assistant ECO, Sanele Mkhonza with an article on the
“Men in Blue Gore-Tex”.
Zuk o
What are the ECO’s responsibilities?
What is the weirdest invasive you have encountered this year?
You were a birder on Marion before, what made you return as an ECO?
You are known for being quick on your feet, what’s the secret to your
speed?
Favourite animal, hut dish and spot on the Island?
What do you miss most about SA, apart from family and friends?
What is your favourite part of the Job?
How do you spend your free time on the island?
What will you miss most about Marion Island?
Name one item in base you cannot live without
My favourite on the island is Soft-plumaged Petrel, hut dish would be two minutes noodles and my favourite would be Puisie Beach
KFC! But on a serious note shopping is one of those.
Implementation of alien eradication.
Playing video games and assisting other field workers when it is necessary.
The amazing experience of just walking along the coast, listening to the calls of birds, the breaking of the waves and the groaning of the seals, and then all of a sudden from nowhere it starts snowing or raining
My laptop (Playing my music).
Oct 2016 4
The men in Blue Gore-Tex
According to classified reputable information, DNA analyses reveals that the ECO's descend from the cat- hunters. According to the Marion Islands times and Marionpedia, the ECO's have evolved to kill alien invasive species and any enemies of the Prince Edward Islands and the Republic. Let me also confirm that the ECO's are not only excellent in their work but also bring, love, warmth and the spirit of Ubuntu into base.
Marion Island has not secret so service agents known as the ECO's, serving the Republic of South Africa under the command of the South African National Antarctic Programme (SANAP).
We are guided by Duke Floyd Chauke and Thomas, and ruled by the King Nish. The ECO's mission and task are to provide the environmental services by protecting this treasured land using the mastery decree called the “Prince Edward Islands Management Plan”
which includes the National Environmental Management Act (No. 107 of 1998), National Environmental Management: Biodiversity Act (No. 10 of 2004), National Environmental Management Integrated Coastal Management Act (Act No. 24 of 2008), and National Environmental Management: Protected Areas Act (No. 57 of 2003).
Normally in movies, most of the intelligence agents and super hero’s hide their identity, operate underground, and work with secret societies or agencies, like Bond or Men in Black.
Let me introduce to you one of the first South African “not so secrete agencies”, forged and assembled by the DEA. Some call them the men in blue gore-tex, or ECO², and others, the amazing ECO's. Rumour has it that some believe the ECO's came from Jupiter. So, let me set the record straight and put these rumours to rest…
I can confirm that the ECO's hold South African passports and ID's, although their place of birth and birth-dates are still unknown as it is classified information held by the DEA. Again, let me officially deny the allegations that ECO's are genetically engineered; as the ECO's have shown a ridiculously high work ethic, ALL DAY EVERY DAY. Lastly, rumour is true that the blue gore-tex the ECO's wear is a symbol of the mandate given to them to protect the islands, blue sky and blue ocean. Now it comes to question that the South African’s, especially the Antarctic community, is asking itself about this
“not so secret service”, ECO², aka the men in the blue gore-tex, with questions such as “What superpowers do the ECO's possess? Where do the ECO's get the licence to kill and to protect his majesty’s Islands and how far the ECO's are willing to take it when on duty?
Please note: the information contained in this article does not necessarily represent the views of M73 or the Wanderer, and may be exaggerated and or fictitious.
by Sanele Mkhonza
Oct 2016 5
Last but not least, let me confirm that the ECO's have a special base relationship; leading with the Base engineer (Phillip Chibange), fuelling and heating the base up with Diesel Mechanic (John Skelete), keeping it fly with the birders O&C (Albert Snyman and Makhudu Masotla), top predatory with MMNU birder(Jessie Berndt) and lovely dovey with the PFIAO love birds (a doctor to be Kim Stevens and Christian Brink), deeply rooted relations with the UP (Nothando Mhlongo and Elana Mostert) and Stellenbosch Botanist (Alta Zietsman), have a solid rock relationship and changing the geomorphology with the Geo (Camilla Kotze), aiming for the stars and unknown galaxies and stopping star wars with the SANSA Engineer (Travis Duck, his quirkiness) and sometimes seal censusing and keeping taps with the sealer’s (Kyle Lloyd, Nasreen Khan and Sydney Tshilingalinga), sometimes kicking it with the Killer Whaler (Nasreen Khan) and lastly making it rain with the Meteorological technician (Vhangani Mugeri, Gerald Kgasago and Marileen Carstens).
In simple terms, the ECO's make sure that the activities in the land, sky and ocean do not have an adverse effect on the precious environment which includes enforcing permit conditions, alien eradication, environmental compliance, country clean-up and scientific field mark monitoring, environmental awareness and waste management. To serve and to protect is the order of the day and the only thing on their minds. One thing that is special about our ECO's is that they are in the sub-Antarctic region of the world, which places them in a difficult position and places heavy responsibilities on their shoulders, which explains the rumours that ECO's do not sleep at all.
Now it comes to the only BIG question that everyone is asking including me. Can the world trust these strange amazing people or whatever they are? Is there a possibility that these wonderful human beings (proven by their DNA analyses) can turn to total environmental world domination? Are they friends or foes of the islands and the world? We can only wonder and time will tell. I only ask that we pray for them as their task is bigger than Boot rock and higher than Mascarin Peak. I can only say that may the force be forever in their favour with the support of the field assistants and Base paddies.
Indeed this fellowship of the ECO two towers really awaits the coming of the King Nish Nishandra for takeover (can someone inform the coming DCO about them before it’s too late). Marion Island is the land of the ECO's and they keep it safe. Indeed his majesty’s treasured land is in good hands….
Oct 2016 6
A birders perspective:
It’s a Tern’s Turn
Apart from their slight morphological variations, the two terns are more similar than different, and are notoriously difficult to distinguish. Even more so, they breed in the same colony. Their bill and tarsus turn from a darker maroon/black colour to coral red during their breeding season (October to February).
Summer is upon us, with the looming breeding season, excitement is spreading across the Island.
All the summer breeders on the island are gearing up for the event, including the two species of terns (Kerguelen and Antarctic), one a resident and the other a breeding vagrant respectively. Both species are classified as Endangered by the IUCN. Given that the birds only invest in one egg per clutch, the turn over is limited to sustain the population at its current status. So far no de-predation have been observed, nor harassment from the predators.
Their anti-predatory skills are ample to survive them, from cryptic eggs/chicks to aggressive mobbing when the colony site is approached, are sufficient to deter what would be their predators.
Terns are one of the few birds which are a sheer joy to watch in flight.
by Deo “Makhudu” Masotla
Oct 2016 7
Readers’ Round Island
MAP OF MARION ISLAND: Position of Swartkops TEXT AND PHOTOS BY CAMILLA KOTZÉ
This Viking Beanie is a must have for the barbaric summer time,
where work is endless and wars against nature are a daily occurrence. It will give
you the strength of a Norse God, or at least, the confidence of one!
ltamate
The Viking
Oct 2016 8
PUPS & THE HUT: Kyle Lloyd
Readers’ Round Island
Swartkops hut is nestled between the terraces of the amphitheatre and the interior. It is usually surrounded by numerous Wandering Albatross chicks, which makes for good entertainment and company (even whilst on the loo). There is plenty to explore around Swartkops, such as the remnants of an old crater, the Chinese Teagardens (which is basically a conglomeration of mires) and the Amphitheatre which houses an estimated 25 000 Maccaroni Penguins during the height of Summer.
by Camilla Kotzé
With the nearest river located 200m back towards Mix-Pix, the water for the hut is taken from the proximal mire lakes. The water is home to small crustaceans known as Copepods.
Although they are harmless and the water is clean, most people rest easier after boiling their water for drinking in the field.
Amphitheatre Oct 2016 9
Chinese Teagarden
The walk from Mix-Pix to Swartkops:
The walk is quick (less than two hours) and rather straight forward. The first spectacle en route is the 1981 lava outflow (see image on the left), one of the most recent volcanic events on Marion.
Further along the route, you pass Kaalkoppie (see image below), which is made of easily erodible tuff (solidified volcanic ash), giving rise to magnificent castled structures. Imagine cascading black glittering sand in a multi-directional panorama. This is a great spot to sit and take in the beauty of the island and ocean, or watch the sun dip below the horizon.
Beyond Kaalkoppe, is Swartkops hut.
Unsheltered and vulnerable on the plane, wind funnelling down the valley shakes the hut with every gust, rocking its inhabitants to sleep at night with a wind song lullaby.
Kaalkoppie 1981 Lava Outflow
Oct 2016 10
MAXIMUM WIND GUST 115.6 km/h TOTAL RAINFALL 146 mm HIGHEST IN 24 HOURS 26.8 mm TOTAL DAYS WITH RAIN 27 days TOTAL DAYS > 1 MM 21 days TOTAL SUNSHINE 107.6 hours
AVE MAX MIN TEMPERATURE (°C) 4.8 7.5 2.2 PRESSURE (hPa) 1002.4 1024 979.5
HUMIDITY (%) 84 100 51
By Camilla Kotzé
Photo by Camilla Kotzé
HUT RECIPE OF THE MONTH
Ingredients
Tuna: 3 cans Tomato & onion mix: 1 can Mixed herbs: Pinch Pepper: Pinch Re-hydrated onion flakes: Pinch Oats: enough to bind the mixture
Fish Cakes
September
Something extra
Dollop of mayonnaise A bit of grated beetroot Topped off with a gherkin
*FEEDS 2 HUNGRY FIELD ASSISTANTS
Oct 2016 11
Snow dusted scoria cones and mires covered in blankets of white may be beautiful, but there is another side to it; getting caught outside in the snow usually means icy soaked clothing or dreaded ice pellets stinging your face like tiny daggers. But no fear, M73 braves all weather to get the job done. It is not all work and no play however, we all stop ever so often to simply appreciate our wonderful surroundings and enjoy some playful moments.
Photo by Marileen at Crane Point while taking sea temperature in the morning
A selection of excellent photographs taken by our team members
For many of the M73 team members, the Marion experience is a string of firsts: whether its the first job after studying, first time on a ship, first time seeing an Elephant seal, or first time away from home for oh so long.
Certainly the most spectacular is the snow. Most South Africans associate snow with foreign countries and unfamiliar ‘white Christmases’. Here on Marion, as we are now painfully aware of, seasons have no clear boundaries.
Here we experience all four seasons in one day and still get snow covered mornings in supposedly sunny Spring.
Compiled by Elana Mostert
Oct 2016 12The stark contrast of soft sparkling snow against the jagged terrain is hauntingly beautiful, as can be seen above in the picture taken by Cam : It was taken on top of Black Haglet on the way back from her round island with Alta, Jess and Travis. Travis described his first round island and snow experience as “Quite interesting, very different form my other hiking experiences, having to crawl out of a waist–high snow mire”. Below was the stunning view from Delta, captured by Jess.
Oct 2016 13
From dusk till dawn...Bright and early, Cam captured a beautiful sunrise (above) while on her way to Softplume river. Marileen experienced an unbelievable sunset (below) in the braai-room.
Oct 2016 14
Some fear the walk up to Katedraal hut and others can’t imagine the beauty of the inland landscape. Alta regularly visits Katedraal, Jess accompanied her and boy, was she in for a wondrous white walk there (above) and a breathtaking view from Katerdaal krans (below).
Marileen described her view from Crane Point as ‘Amazing”. Even though she was cold and wet from taking sea temperature, she could enjoy the contrast of the snow and sun alongside calm waters.
Oct 2016 15
Even everyday walks can reveal something extraordinary...
The walk from base to Ship’s can get a bit mundane but on a snowy morning Albert spotted something really peculiar next to a pond; grass icicles from windblown water that froze over.
Oct 2016 16
Even everyday walks can reveal something extraordinary...
Alta walks past Junior’s every other day, not thinking much of it. With a snow blanket covering everything, the well worn path suddenly became an unusual pretty sight with her lone footsteps imprinted.
Oct 2016 17
Gerald conquered his first round island with Sydney. They started of their journey with Deo, doing Sydney’s South census.
On the way from Kildalkey (see Mesrug below) to Watertunnel, they stopped to enjoy the knee-deep snow. Gerald recalls it as being “Wow, such a beautiful experience in the snow that looks really cold but it’s not once your out.”
Oct 2016 18
Christmas came early on Marion...
Louise had the ingenious idea to set up the Christmas tree outside in the snow for some fun pictures with Thando (left). Thando captured Sanele, Morgan and Zuko outside enjoying the snow (below). She gave a shrill shriek of excitement while explaining her first experience with snow.
Oct 2016 19
Snowy shelter...
While out and about, our crafty PFAIO birders, Kim and Christiaan, built this nifty shelter. Made with snow bricks, it’s a snug fit for two.
Oct 2016 20
Albert and I built two really cool snowmen.
Our first attempt was on Longridge, on the way to Mixed Pickle. We dressed the pocket- sized snowman with moss, Blechnum and Azorella (above).
On a second occasion, I was helping Albert checking nests close to base. There were piles of snow, perfect for making a life size snowman. With a carrot nose no less!
Oct 2016 21
And you don’t even have to leave base to enjoy the snow...
Above is Jess’s first day of snow. View from her bedroom window.
Below is the sweet view that Louise had of the fluffy snow.
Oct 2016 22
Now I have a much better perspective of life. I have come out of my shell where all I knew was my family, my relationships, my job, my struggles and my life. Travel has opened new doors for me – I can see different aspects of life.
I can understand what is important and what can be side-lined. It has helped me think beyond the traditional mind-set that there is more to life than the usual.
Lesson Learnt
I have always believed that travel teaches you without a scorecard. It enriches you gently.
When you step out to see the world – meet people, get acquainted with different cultures, taste new cuisines or simply breathe in an unfamiliar city – you learn a lot!
It happens naturally – you don’t have to try too hard. It’s all about losing yourself into the arms of a new environment. You have to first shrug off the ‘safe’ and ‘tried and tested’ syndrome and delve into the unexplored with a free spirit.
Travel has taught me a lot. It has taught me so much that I am even keener to learn more through it. Let me share 10 things that I have learned from my travels so far.
I have always been as confident or as nervous as any other person, but travelling has instilled a new level of confidence in me. I am certainly more confident of myself as a person today than I ever was. When you travel, you have to manage so many things on your own – from booking accommodation to deciding where to eat and lots of other things that you do independently. At the end of the day, there is a sense of achievement that you have explored a destination on your own and that’s a big deal!
1
Travel has opened my eyes to the small, ordinary things of life- things that are undervalued, but have great significance. Now I am more conscious towards waiters, chauffeurs, florists, vendors and any random person whom I come across on my vacations. I have a deeper sense of respect for them, because they are the ones who make our travels smooth for us. I often make it a point to interact with people, and that makes my travel experience even more rewarding.
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3
I have learnt to mingle with people. Although I am a reserved person – I don’t speak much when I am around unfamiliar people, I have
pretty much started interacting with people on my travels. Well, I am not saying that I befriend anybody and everybody, but I do initiate conversations with random fellow travellers. I believe if you don’t interact with your fellow travellers and the locals of your destination, you barely experience a place.
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Ever since I have started travelling, I know my priorities very well. I know that I want to travel as much as possible. I know what I have to save for, what makes me happy and what I have to seek in life. When I was not travelling, life was a usual rat-race. I was clueless about my own ambition in life. Travel has given me a clear direction and purpose.
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By Johnsonian M Skelete (Marion Island 2016-2017)
So that was my ode to travel. But that’s not all – I am sure there is much more that I must have learnt! And I will continue to learn throughout my life.
6
It may sound funny, but travel has helped me shed my selfish side. I have always considered myself a self-centered person. But travel has nudged me to look around and see life. Now I am able to view life in all its hues. I am able to relate to all kinds of people. I can think beyond my own challenges and realize the adversities faced by others. I’m able to look at others with compassion; everybody has challenges to deal with.
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Travel has introduced me to various things – culture, people, food, architecture, landscape and so much more. I have learnt to appreciate the variety that life offers. We don’t understand it till the time we begin to travel. Now I wonder how some people get bored in their lives, when life has such wonderful things to enjoy. We just need to step out of our homes and discover the immense beauty out there.
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Now I find myself more creative as a person. By creativity, I don’t mean that I have learnt some kind of art. I simply mean that I have become more creative in my day-to-day living. Travel opens our mind so much that we begin to see something interesting in everything – it could be something as simple as preparing a meal or arranging books on the shelf.
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It’s human nature to grumble about things. But when we travel, we are able to negate such things with ease. I have realized that I have developed an attitude of gratitude. I am more excited and thankful about life than I ever was.10
Ever since I have started travelling and mainly started writing about my experiences, I have also been able to improve my world-wide knowledge. Now I read a lot about destinations, different cultures, traditions, cuisines and other things. Now, I find myself more equipped with knowledge, which has eventually made me a wiser person.
Oct 2016 24
A town in Grant County, Indiana, United States with a population of 29,948 (2010 census).
An Island in the South Indian Ocean, annexed by South Africa with a population of 21 (2016 census).
The internet has made it easy to reach out and connect with just about anybody. While Globalization has the made the world smaller, it has made ours on Marion Island a whole lot bigger! There has already been a string of conversations between us and our pen pals, as well as the exchange of some pictures and videos. This will continue for the next while as we learn a bit more about each other, broadening perspectives and compassionately connecting through experiences and commonalities. See what some of them said on experienced on this remote
sub-Antarctic Island.
A fifth grade class from Marion Intermediate school in America has undertaken a pen pal project. The 10 year olds have started reaching out to places all over the world that share the name of their Home town; making us on Marion Island very lucky to make acquaintance with these young, bright and talented individuals.
Not only is it great to make a new friend, but it also takes the edge off the isolation
Huber's 5th grade Gifted and Talented Class of 2016- 2017!
page 19. Thanks for reaching out to us Ms.
Oct 2016 25
Oct 2016 26
Thando’s Throw Back
Inyanga Powers
From left: Albert (Birdman), Nothando (Fifa babes’ wodumo
#Machine), Zuko (Mabala Msindo), Elana (Na #Baddass), Alta (Nator) and Makhudu (the Ornithologist)
During takeover some of our team members went for their first round island (RI) and came back with stories of the beauty of the island. So when my time came to go experience such beauty on my first RI, it was met with excitement, joy and gratitude. The island provides so much adventure, even when you working it feels like you are on a Tropical Island…well I wouldn’t put it that way since we are on a sub-Antarctic island, but it’s the only example I can use right nowbear with me.
Sub-Antarctic means that we experience crazy weather like ice pellets, gale winds and intensive rain, but with every bad day you have something wonderful to share with the team. For my first RI with my Inyanga (Elana), we teamed up with the oceans and coasts (O&C) birders (Albert and Makhudu aka Deo).
I recall a scenario where I was walking alone from Mixed Pickle to base, I actually thought there was someone ahead of me and later found out that it was just a rock. You start hallucinating things because of the isolation from civilisation. To be quite honest, when I heard I was coming to Marion for 14 months, I thought maybe there was a community with shops near the research station since I’m a mall lover . After researching the island, I was like,
“ok how am I going to survive this year”, but with dedication to my career and the love of science, I’m happy to say I am not only surviving but I’m living the dream . So far my favourite huts are Greyheaded and Cape Davis, and my favourite site Hoppies Hell. When walking through Hoppies Hell your imagination runs wild, Sanele can be my witness to that as we started seeing Rabbits, Dogs, Dragons and Cats just looking at the rocks and how they’re shaped. Many more adventures followed this and fun was had…
Just when we were missing our other Inyanga (Alta), the Inyanga powers were super charged when Alta teamed up with Chef ECO Zuko for an anticlockwise RI. When you are walking on Marion Island, you don’t often come across other team members. So when we got the chance to meet up with Alta and Zuko we made sure to take as many pictures as possible.
Photo credit Deo (Makhudu): Picture taken at Kaalkoppie
Pretty & Tough
From the left: Jessie, Camilla, Nasreen, Thando and Elana By Nothando Mhlongo
Mother Marion blessed us with a beautiful day, and we, the Terrestrials (Nothando, Elana and Camilla) were lending a helping hand to our sister Jessie with her bird work. We left base as 7:30 am, the early bird catches the first worm is ironic since we were going to Ship’s Cove to catch NGP’s. Nasreen and Sanele met up with us at Ships on their way to Repetto’s for Nasreen’s North census. Of course when woman are together we got to make memories and thanks to Sanele, our camera man, for capturing such amazing beauty. I was so proud of the way we went Ape crazy on those birds catching 10 NGP’s in total, a number that wasn’t expected from us, take that! I would like to admit there were several falls, sprinting like we were on the Olympics.
It felt like a day in the gym but fun was had on an amazing sunny day. Thanks mother Marion…
End of September Birthday Celebrations
John’s Bday Braai
Sydney’s Bday Bash
Oct 2016 28
