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Gedung E, Lantai 13

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vi

DAFTAR ISI

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DAFTAR ISI

HALAMAN JUDUL DALAM

DAFTAR ISI

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

A. Pendahuluan

B. Cara Instalasi

C. Pengaturan RP-DGS

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

A. Intelligent Pen

B. Rectangle

C. Add Point

D. Eraser

E. Paralel Line

F. Forfex

G. Snipe Curve

H. Relevant/Irrelevant

I. Compass

vii

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K. Add Seam

L. Notch

M. Grain Line / Arah Serat

N. Pattern Rotate

O. Pattern Flip

P. Horizontal/Vertical Adjust

Q. Pattern Symmetry

TOOL GRADING

A. Edit Size and Measurement

B. Grade Table

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

A. Pola Rok Bagian Depan

B. Pola Rok Bagian Belakang

C. Pola Ban Pinggang

D. Grading Pola Rok

E. Pemberian Kampuh

F. Penyusunan Marker Pola Rok

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

A. Pola Dasar Blouse

B. Pola Blouse Bagian Depan

C. Pola Blouse Bagian Belakang

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F. Pola Interlaining

G. Grading Pola Blouse

H. Penyusunan Marker Pola Blouse

DAFTAR PUSTAKA

69

72

73

76

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

1

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BAB I

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK

MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

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BAB I

2

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

3

1

'EVE XVEHMWMSREP QIR]YWYR EXEY QIQFYEX WOIXWE HIRKER XERKER QEWML

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4

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

*YRKWM'%(YRXYO*EWLMSREHEPEL

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2. 1IRKEQFMPYOYVERHER QIQFYEX TSPEFYWERE–7SJX[EVI(body scanning HETEXQIRKEQFMPXMXMOXMXMOYOYVERXYFYLWIGEVEGITEXHEREOYVEXOIQYHMER HMSPELYRXYOTIQFYEXERTSPEHIRKER'%(pattern, grading and marker WILMRKKE QIRKLEWMPOER OSQTSRIROSQTSRIR TSP QIR]IHMEOER VITVIWIRXEWM ZMWYEP R]EXE XIRXERK FEKEMQERE TSPE EOER HMFIRXYO HMOIQFERKOER LMRKKE ZMWYEPMWEWM QSXMJ TEHE TSPE EOER FMWE XEQTEO R]EXE 7EEX QIVERGERK OIFYXYLER OEMR MXY QIQYRKOMROER HIWEMRIV QIQMPML HER QIQSHMJMOEWM TIPIXEOER TSPE ]ERK FIVFIHE WIFIPYQ QIQMPML ]ERK XIVEOLMV 4VSWIW QIRKLIQEXFME]EHER[EOXYFELERHER FME]EHMFERHMRKOERWIGEVEQERYEP '%(QIQYRKOMROERWISVERKHIWEMRIVYRXYOQIQSHMJMOEWMHERQIRHYTPMOEWM [EVREQSXMJTSWIHEVMHIWEMR YRXYOQIQFERXYQIRHETEXOERQSHIP]ERK FIREVFIREVEOERHMTVSHYOWM

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SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

5

1

6

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

7

1

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8

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

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SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

9

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2. 1IRMRKOEXOEREOYVEWMHERTVIWMWMHEPEQTVSHYOWM 3. 1IRMRKOEXERIVKSRSQMG

4. 1IQYHELOERQERENIQIRlifecycle TVSHYO

4EHE FYOY MRM EOER QIRKKYREOERsoftware '%(pattern design grading HEVM 6MGLTIEGI 6MGLTIEGI QIR]IHMEOERsoftware GEH : IZEPYEXMSR FIWIVXE XYXSVMEP TIRKKYREERR]E HM WMXYW VIWQMR]E LXXT[[[VMGLTIEGIGSQ (MFERHMRKOER HIRKERsoftware evaluation version HEVMTIR]IHMEPEMRR]Esoftware Garment Cad V8 Evaluation PIFMLopen EOWIWHMQEREWIQYETool HETEXEOXMJHERXERTEEHEQEWE XVMEPYNMGSFEWILMRKKEWERKEXGSGSOYRXYOTVSWIWTIQFIPENEVERHIRKEROEXEPEMR +EVQIRXCad V8 Evaluation version HEVMRichpeace MRM QIQMPMOM JEWMPMXEW WITIVXM software full versionnya dan HETEX HMKYREOER WIGEVE FIFEW SPIL WMW[E HM WIOSPELYRMZIVWMXEW]ERKQIR]IPERKKVEOERTVSKVEQOIELPMERFYWEREEXEYTYRSPIL QEW]EVEOEX YQYQ ]ERK MRKMR FIPENEV '%( YRXYO KEVQIR 7IQYE OSQTYXIV HM PEFSVEXSVMYQ OSQTYXIV HER WIQYE OSQTYXIVPETXST WMW[E HETEX HM install WIGEVEFIFEWWILMRKKEHETEXQIRHSVSRKWMW[EFIPENEVQERHMVM9RXYO-RWXEPEWM Software CAD Richpeace QIQFYXYLOERTIVEPEXERWIFEKEMFIVMOYX

10

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

1. /SQTYXIVHIWOXSTTGPETXSTHIRKERWTIWMJMOEWMQMRMQEPWIFEKEMFIVMOYX 2. 3W;MRHS[WHERWIXEPELR]E

3. 6%1QMR+&

4.

4VSGIWWSVGSVI-5. ,EVHMWO+&JVIIQMR+&

6. )\XIVREPmouse LEVYWEHEERH97&TSVX

7. 1SRMXSVQMRMRGL

Software CAD Richpeace, FMWEHMYRHYLHMLXXT[[[VMGLTIEGIGSQMRHI\ TLTIRWYTTSVXHS[RPSEHJMPIVMGLTIEGIKEVQIRXGEHZIZEPYEXMSR

& 'EVE-RWXEPEWM

%OXMJOER OSQTYXIV HER WMETOER '( 97& I\XIVREP LEVHMWO ]ERK FIVMWM Software '%(Richpeace Garment cad V8 evaluation ]ERKEOEROMXEMRWXEPHM OSQTYXIV1EWYOER'(97&external hardiskGEVMJMPIinstaller setup.exeHER doubel OPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMmouse

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

11

1

4VSWIWMRWXEPEWMQIRKMOYXMPERKOELPERKOELWIFEKEMFIVMOYX

4MPMLYes HERWIPERNYXR]E

4MPMLHERXIOERNext HERWIPERNYXR]E

12

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

64(+7EHEPELSoftware YRXYOTIQFYEXERTSPEQIQFYEXsize/ grading IHMXTIREQFELERXERHENELMXER/ notch TIREQFELERKEVMWNELMXERWIEQHPP

64+17YRXYOQIQFYEXEXEYQIR]YWYRTSPE]ERKOMXEFYEXHEVM64(+7 WIWYEMHIRKERNYQPELVEWMSEXEYsize ]ERKMRKMRHMWYWYRHERPIFEVOEMR]ERK XIPELHMXIRXYOER

' 4IRKEXYVER 64(+7

7IFIPYQQIRKKYREOERsoftware 64(+7WIFEMOR]EOMXEQIPEOYOER TIRKEXYVERFIFIVETELEPTIRXMRK]EMXY

1. 7EXYERYOYVER

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

13

1

%OERXEQFMPNIRHIPEWITIVXMHMEXEWYRXYOTIRKEXYVERWEXYERYOYVERWIXIPEL OMXEOPMOsystem setup TEHEstep WIFIPYQR]E

Jangan lupa tekan “OK”

Klik Length Unit

Pilih Length Unit (klik satu kali)

Precision : untuk ketepatan/ kepresisian satun (angka

14

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

2. %OXMJOERRule FEVTIRKKEVMW

3. %OXMJOERTool HEWEV]ERKEOEROMXEKYREOEREKEVQIQTIVQYHELOMXE QIRGEVMToolR]E'EVEQIRKEOXMJOERTool-R]EFMWEHMPMLEXTEHEKEQFEV

Add Point Tekan tombol Add setelah

memilih tool yang akan ditambahkan

6YPIFEVHMEOXMJOEREKEVTEHE EVIEOIVNEXEQTMPYOYVEREKEV

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

15

1

4MPMLTool-Tool HEWEV ]ERK EOER OMXE KYREOER HIRKER GEVE EVELOER pointer OIFEKMEROMVMPSKSToolHEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMQMWEPTMPMLPSKS Add PointWIPERNYXR]EXIOERXSQFSPAdd ]ERKEHEHMHEPEQNIRHIPEWITIVXM KEQFEV HMEXEW

'EXEXER9RXYOQIRKKYREOER8SSP8SSPHEWEV]ERKOMXETMPMLHMEXEWLER]E HIRKEROPMOXSQFSPOERERQSYWITEWXMOERTSMRXIVEHEHMEVIEOIVNE WEEXOPMO OERERXSQFSP QSYWI

4. 4IRKEXYVERprinter! plotter! cutting plotter! pdf Jile! cut Jile EKEV LEWMP TIQFYEXERTSPEQEVOIVFMWEHMTVMRXOIQIHMEOIVXEWJMPITHJQEYTYRcut JMPIYRXYOOIQIWMRTSXSRKSXSQEXMWautocutter

'EVETIRKEXYVEREVELOERpointer OIToolFEVFEKMEREXEWHERTMPMLFile HERWYFToolFEVR]ETMPMLprinter setupOIQYHMEREOERXEQTMPNIRHIPEprinter setup WITIVXMKEQFEVHMFE[EL

4EWXMOER FEL[Eprinter ]ERK HMKYREOER WYHEL XIVLYFYRK HIRKER OSQTYXIVWIFIPYQR]EMWMOSPSQname HIRKERQIRIOERXERHETERELHER TMPMLTVMRXIVR]E9RXYOTIRKEXYVER]ERKPEMRWEQEHIRKERTIRKEXYVERprinter FMEWE

16

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

1

%XYVYRMXWEXYERYOYVER]ERKHMMRKMROER

bol dari mouse, jendela kecil mbar, ini sangat an paterner Klik kanan tombol dari mouse, akan tampil jendela kecil seperti

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

17

2

BAB II

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

A. Inteligent Pen 7LSVXGYX“F”)

Tool MRMFMWEHMKYREOERYRXYOFIFIVETEJYRKWMHMERXEVER]E

1. Rectangle/ PIVWIKMIQTEXKIVEOERTSWMWMOERpointer OIXIRKELEXEYHMEVIE OIVNEOIQYHMEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPmouse OMVMWEQFMPHMXELERNERKERHMPITEW NMOE WEPEL YPERKM7EQFMP HMXELER KIVEOER KIWIV WIHMOMXcursor/ mouse LMRKKEOIPYEVKEQFEVTIVWIKMHERPITEWXSQFSPOMVM]ERKXEHMHMXELERFMPE FIVLEWMPQEOEEOEROIPYEVKEQFEVWITIVXMHMFE[EL

BAB II

18

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

1IQFYEXKEVMWPYVYW WYHYXMWXMQI[Eq q q qq q q qGEVER]EHIRKERQIRKEVELOERTSWMWMpointer OIEVIEOIVNEHEROPMO XSQFSPOERERLMRKKEKEQFEVpointer FIVYFELHEVMPIRKOYRKQIRNEHMPSKS LYVYJ8HERKIWIVpointer WIWYEMEVEYLWYHYXMWXMQI[E]ERKOMXEMRKMROER WIPERNYXR]EOPMOHIRKERXSQFSPmouse ]ERKOMVMHEROIPYEVwindow OIGMP WITIVXMHMFE[ELHERQEWYOOERRMPEMTERNERK]ERKHMMRKMROER

7IHERKOERFMPEQIRKMRKMROERKEVMWPYVYW]ERKFIVWYHYXFIFEWHIRKERGEVE ]ERK WEQE VYFEL PSKSpointer mouse QIRNEHM PIRKOYRK QEOE OMXE FIFEW QIRKKIWIVmouse OIWIQYEEVEL

3. 1IQFYEX KEVMW PIRKOYRK HIRKER EXEY PIFML XMXMO FERXY NERKER PYTE QIVYFELPSKSpointer mouse QIRNEHMPIRKOYRK]EMXYOMXEQIQFYEXKEVMW PIRKOYRKFIFEWHIRKERGEVEEVELOERpointer OIEVIEOIVNEHEROPMOHIRKER XSQFSPOMVMWIOEPMHERKIWIVpointer YRXYOQIRIRXYOERXMXMOOIHYEOIXMKE HERWIXIVYWR]EHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMNYKE&MPEMRKMRQIRKEOLMVMXMRKKEPOPMO XSQFSPOERER

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

19

2

.MOE FIRXYO PIRKOYRK ]ERK HMMKMROER XIPEL WIWYEM QEOE OPMO WIOEPM PEKM YRXYO QIQTSWMWMOER PIXEOpoint ]ERK FEVY HIRKER XSQFSP OMVM WIPERNYXR]E FSPIL QIQMPMLpoint ]ERK PEMRNMOEMRKMRQIQMRHELOERTSWMWMTSMRX]ERKPEMR NMOE HMVEWEOER FIRXYO FIPYQ WIWYEM QEWML HIRKER GEVE WIFIPYQ R]E .MOE WYHEL WIWYEM QEOE EOLMVM HIRKER QIRIOER XSQFSP OMVM WIOEPM PEKM FYOER XSQFSPOERER

Catatan: Untuk merubah garis lurus menjadi lengkung/memindahkan

posisi poin, bisa juga dengan menggunakan Tool “modify”.

B. Rectangle shortcut “S”)

20

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

C. Add point Shortcut “P”)

&IVJYRKWMYRXYOQIREQFELOERTSMRTEHEKEVMWEXEYFMHERKPEMRTIREQFELER TSMRFMWEPIFMLHEVMWEXY'EVEQIRKKYREOERFMWEHIRKERshortcut “p” dan PSKS pointer EOERFIVYFELQIRNEHMHYEKEVMWOIGMPHERXMXMO

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

21

2

D. Eraser 7LSVGYX“E”)

Tool MRMFIVJYRKWMYRXYOQIRKLETYWKEVMWpoint HPPFMWEHIRKERWEXYWEXY

EXEYFIVWEQEER'EVER]EHIRKERQIRKEVELOERpointer mouse OIFEKMER]ERK

EOERHMLETYWHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMEXEYHMFPSOOIWIPYVYLERYRXYOQIRKLETYW FIFIVETEFEKMERWIGEVEFIVWEQEER

E. 4EVEPIP0MRI7LSVXGYX“Q”)

Paralel line HMKYREOERYRXYOQIQFYEXQIREQFELOERKEVMWTEVEPIPWINENEV

HIRKER KEVMW ]ERK ERHE 'EVER]E EOXMJOERTool dengan menekan “Q” dari

keyboard HER PSKSpointer EOER FIVYFEL QIRNEHM KEVMW TEVEPIP /IQYHMER

EVELOERpointer OIKEVMW]ERKEOEROMXEXEQFELOERKEVMWTEVEPIPR]EWEQTEM

KEVMW FIV[EVRE QIVEL WIPERNYXR]E OPMO HIRKER XSQFSP OMVM OIQYHMER KIWIV OIEVEL]ERKHMMRKMROEROIQYHMEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMWIOEPMPEKMHEREOERQYRGYP NIRHIPEOSXEO]ERKLEVYWHMMWMTEHEOSPSQWITIVXMTIXYRNYOHMFE[EL

Bila akan merubah titik NOL/ titik acuannya, tinggal centang

22

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

PWMOSPSQR]EWIFEKEMFIVMOYX

/SPSQTIVXEQEEHEPELNEVEOKEVMWTIVXEQEKEVMWEGYEROIKEVMWOIHYE /SPSQOIHYEEHEPELNYQPELKEVMW]ERKEOERHMXEQFELOER

/SPSQOIXMKEEHEPELNEVEOERXEVEKEVMWOIHYEHIRKERKEVMWOIXMKEOIIQTEXHER WIXIVYWR]E

F. *SVJI\7LSVGYX“W”)

(MKYREOERYRXYOQIQIGELHIWEMRQIRNEHMFIFIVETEFIRXYOTSPE7IXIPEL OMXEWIPIWEMQIQFYEXHIWEMRTSPEHEVMrectangleTIVWIKMIQTEXQEOEOMXEFMWE

QIQIGELR]EQIRNEHMFIFIVETEFEKMERWITIVXMGSRXSLTEHEKEQFEVFIVMOYX

4EHEKEQFEVHMEXEWWYHELXIVHETEXHIWEMRTSPEYRXYOFEKMERHITERHER FIPEOERKHEROMXEEOERQIQIGELR]EQIRNEHMHYEFEKMERHIRKERGEVEXIOER

shortcut “W”HEVMkeyboard HEREVELOERpointer OIKEVMW]ERKQIVYTEOERFEKMER

QEWMRKQEWMRKHITEREXEYFIPEOERK.ERKERPYTEQIQMPMLKEVMWHIRKERXSQFSP OMVMHEVMmouse HERFIVYVYXERWIEVELNEVYQNEQ]ERKHMOMPMOEOERFIVYFEL[EVRE

QIVEL&MPEFIVLEWMPQEOETEHEWEEXOPMOTEHEKEVMWXIVEOLMVQEOETSPETEHE EVIEOIVNEEOERFIVYFEL[EVREWIPERNYXR]EXEOERXSQFSPOERER

[image:30.499.72.413.226.415.2]

Catatan : Bila berhasil maka akan ditandai dengan keluarnya logo/ gambar pola pada bagian kiri/atas.

9RXYOTIGELTSPEOSQTSRIRPEMRR]EQEOEOMXELEVYWQIVIJVIWLTool

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

23

2

EOXMJOEROIQFEPMTool forfex EXEYshortcut “W”.,HERHIRKERGEVE]ERKWEQENMOE EOERTIGELTSPEPIFMLHEVM'EVEPEMR]ERKFMWEHMGSFEYRXYOTIGELTSPE]EMXY HIRKERXIOERHERXELERXSQFSPshift TEHEkeyboard WIVXEEVELOERpointer TEHE FEKMER EVIE]ERKEOERHMNEHMOERTSPEHEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMEOERFIVYFEL[EVRE TEHEEVIE]ERKOMXETMPML9RXYOTSPE]ERKQIVYTEOERKEFYRKERPIFMLHEVMWEXY FEKMERQEOEFMWEHMPERNYXOERHIRKEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPmouse OMVMTEHEEVIE ]ERKPEMR.ERKERPYTEOPMOXSQFSPOERERmouse NMOEEVIE]ERKHMMRKMROERXIPEL FIVYFEL[EVRE]ERKQIRERHEOERWEXYFEKMERTSPE

G. “Z”)

24

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

H. 6IPIZERX-VVIPIZERX

Tool MRMQIQMPMOMJYRKWMYRXYOQIRKKEFYRKOEREXEYQIQMWELOER

HYE XMXMO point TIVXIQYER HEVM HYE KEVMW WILMRKKE WEEX EOER

HMKIVEOOER HMKIWIV HIRKER Tool modify EOER FIVWEQE WEQE

XIVTMWELFIVKIVEOFIVKIWIV

'EVER]EEOXMJOERTool Relevant/ Irrelevant XIOERXSQFSPWLMJX

YRXYOQIQMPMLR]ETMPMLKEVMWTIVXEQHIVRKEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMmouse

HER OPMO KEVMW OIHYE WIPERNYXR]E EOXMJOER Tool QSHMJ] YRXYO

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

25

2

I. C “C”)

Tool MRM WERKEX QIQFERXY YRXYO QIQFYEX KEVMW PYVYW HIRKER TERNERK XIVXIRXY]ERKWYHELTEWXMEXEYHMXIRXYOERWIFIPYQR]ETool MRMFMWEHMKYREOER YRXYOQIQFYEXKEVMWTYRHEOTERNERKTYRHEOWLSYPHIVHEVMPMRKOEVPILIVOI KEVMWXYVYRFELYshoulder slope

'EVER]EEOXMJOERTool compassWIPERNYXR]EEVELOERpointer OIpoint PIFEV PILIV]ERKHMPMRKOEVMQIVELWEQTEMpoint FIV[EVREQIVELHER OPMOHIRKER XSQFSPOMVMWIOEPMWENEWIPERNYXR]EEVELOERpointer OIKEVMWTEVEPIPKEVMWXYVYR FELYshoulder sloope OIPYEV[EVREQIVELTEHEKEVMWHEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMHER EOEROIPYEVNIRHIPEOIGMP]ERKFIVMWMOSPSQ]ERKLEVYWHMMWMRMPEMTERNERKKEVMW ]ERKHMMRKMROERWIWYEMHEXEHERWIPERNYXR]EXIOER3/

J. Compare Length Shortcut “R”)

26

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

4IRKYOYVER]ERKHMHETEXEHEQEGEQ]EMXY

a.Length : TERNERKKEVMWEXEYTIVMQIXIV0IRKOYRKKEVMWPYVYW]ERKFIV[EVRELMNEY b.< TERNERKKEVMWHEVMpoint HERHMXEVMOWINENEVWYQFY<

c.= TERNERKKEVMWHEVMpoint HERHMXEVMOWINENEVWYQFY=

K. %HH7IEQ

Tool MRMHMTEOEMYRXYOQIREQFELOERKEVMWNELMXERFMEWER]EHMTEOEMKEVMW

TYXYWTYXYW'EVER]EQIRKKYREOERWERKEXQYHEL]EMXYHIRKER GEVEQIRKEVELOERpointer OIKEVMWEXEYFIFIVETEKEVMWHMFPSOKEVMW ]ERKEOER

HMFIVOERKEVMWNELMXER]ERKWEQERMPEMR]E

Catatan : Pemberian garis jahitan/ Add Seam, dilakukan setelah proses

pecah pola

Y

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

27

2

L. 2SXGL

(MKYREOER YRXYO QIREQFELOER XERHE TSWMWM NELMXER WEQFYRKER 'EVE QIRKKYREOERR]E HIRKER QIRKEVELOERpointer OI KEVMW ]ERK EOER HMFIVMOER XERHENELMXERnotch HEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMmouse HEREOEROIPYEVNIRHIPEWITIVXM KEQFEVHMFE[EL

PWMOSPSQ(MWXERGIHIRKERRMPEMNEVEOHEVMXMXMOEGYERWIWYEMOIMRKMRER

'EXEXER8ERHENELMXERRSXGLEHEFIFIVETEX]TI]ERKFMWEHMKYREOER]EMXY

28

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

Catatan : Untuk merubah type notch, tekan button “Notch Attr” dan akan tampak jendela Notch Attribute, tekan tanda panah yang ada di kolom type dan pilih type yang diiginkan. Selanjutnya kita isi kolom lainnya yaitu kedalaman/ depth dari notch dan widh/ lebar notch jika ada serta sudut/ angle.Jangan lupa pilih cut jika tanda jahitan/ notch akan di potong dan draw jika hanya di gambar/ ditulis/ tidak dipotong.

M.Grain Line%VEL7IVEX

Tool MRMHMTEOEMYRXYOQIVYFELEVELWIVEX]ERKWYHELEHEGEVER]EHIRKER QIRKEOXMJOERTool XIVWIFYXHEREVELOERpointer OIWEPELWEXYpoint/ XMXMOXMXMO TIVXEQEHEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOERERWIOEPMHERKIWIVpointer OIpointXMXMO XMXMOOIHYEPEMRR]EHEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMPEKMWIOEPM+EVMWgrain line ]ERK WYHELEHEEOERFIVYFELWIWYEMHIRKER]ERKHMMRKMROER

N. 4EXXIVR6SXEXI

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

29

2

O. 4EXXIVR*PMT

Pattern lip EXEY1MVVSVEHEPELTool ]ERKHMKYREOERYRXYOQIRGIVQMROER

TSPEXIVLEHETWYQFY<LSVM^SRXEPEXEY=ZIVXMGEPWIWYEM]ERKHMFYXYLOER 'EVER]EEOXMJOERToolR]EHERTIVLEXMOERPSKSpointerR]EHERXIOERWLMJXQEOE

PSKSpointer EOERFIVYFELWIWYEMEVELWYQFY]ERKEOERHMTMPML%VELOERpointer

OIEVIETSPE]ERKEOERHMJPMTHEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMmouse WIOEPMHERTSPEEOER

30

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

P. ,SVM^SRXEP:IVXMGEP%HNYWX

Tool ]ERK WEXY WERKEX FIVKYRE NMOE OMXE EOER QIQTIVFEMOM TSPE ]ERK

FIVEWEPHEVMHMKMXM^IV]EMXYKEVMWPYVYW]ERKXMHEOFEMOEXEYEKEOQMVMRK8IXETM

Tool MRMNEVERKHMTEOEMNMOETIQFYEXERTSPEPERKWYRKHEVMSoftware CAD'EVE

QIRKKYREOERToolR]E]EMXYEOXMJOERToolR]EHERTIVLEXMOERPSKSpointerR]E

HERXIOERWLMJXHEVMOI]FSEVHYRXYOQIVYFELPSKSR]EEVELWYQFY<EXEY=

%VELOERpointer OIpoint XMXMO TIVXEQE ]ERK KEVMWR]E XMHEO PYVYW KEVMW

XIVHMVMHYEXMXMOpointHEROPMOWIOEPMHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMmouse HEREVELOER

PEKM OI XMXMOOIHYEHER OPMO WIOEPM HIRKERXSQFSP OMVMNYKE 7IPERNYXR]E EOER

XEQFMPNIRHIPETIRKEXYVERHorz-Vert Adjust WITIVXM]ERKXEQTEOTEHEKEQFEV

HMFE[EL

4EHENIRHIPETIRKEXYVERXIVHETEXTMPMLERYRXYOTIRKEXYVERXMXMO]EMXY

1. Move end pointXMXMONMOEWEPELWEXYXMXMOpoint ]ERKEOERHMEXYV

2. Move 2 end point, NMOEOIHYEXMXMOEOERHMEXYVFIVWEQEWEQE

4IVLEXMOERXSQFSPChange MoveXIOERXSQFSPMRMNMOEMRKMRQIVYFELpoint

XMXMO]ERKEOEROMXEVYFELTSWMWMR]E

Poin t 2

Point ini bergeser arah sumbuh X ses

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

31

2

Q. 4EXXIVR7]QQIXV]

Tool ]ERKWEXYMRMWERKEXQIQFERXYTEXIVRIVWEEXQIQFYEXTSPE]ERKXIVHMVM

HEVMHYEFEKMER]ERKWEQEWILMRKKETIQFYEXERTSPEFMWEHMFYEX~FEKMERWENE 7ITIVXMFEKMERFEHERFSH]HITEREXEYFIPEOERK]ERKXIVHMVMHEVMFEKMEROMVMHER

OERER

9RXYO TSPE ]ERK XIVHMVM HEVM KEFYRKER OMVM HER OERER QEOE TEXIVRIV LER]E QIQFYEX FEKMER OMVM EXEY OERER WENE (ER YRXYO FEKMER WIFIPELR]E XMRKKEP HM KEFYRKOERHIRKERQYHELQIRNEHMWEXYFEKMERTSPE]ERKPIRKOETQIRNEHMWEXY

TSPE

'EVE QIRKKYREOER 8SSP MRM ]EMXY XIVPIFML HELYPY EOXMJOER 8SSPR]E HER TIVLEXMOERPSKSTEHETSMRXIVHERXIOER7,-*8YRXYOQIVYFELPSKSTEHETSMRXIV 7IPERNYXR]EEVELOERTSMRXIVOIKEVMW]ERKEOERHMNEHMOERKEVMWWYQFYEXEYKEVMW XIRKELHEROPMOWIOEPMHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMQSYWITEHEKEVMWXIVWIFYX4SPEEOER SXSQEXMWFIVYFELWISPELSPELHYETSPE]ERKHMKEFYRKOERQIRNEHMWEXY

TSPE

Catatan :

Bila pola yang dihasilkan seperti diatas, saat diedit/ dirubah salah satu bagian saja, maka bagian sebelahnya akan otomatis berubah juga.

32

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

2

Catatan :

TOOL GRADING

33

3

BAB III

TOOL GRADING

Grading EHEPELTVSWIWTIQFYEXERTSPEYRXYOYOYVERsize WIPEMRYOYVERsize

HEWEVbasicMRMPEL]ERKQIRNEHMWEPELWEXYOIPIFMLERNMOETEXIVRIV QIRKKYREOER

7SJX[EVI'%(HEPEQTIQFYEXERTSPE(MERXEVEOIPIFMLERTIQFYEXERgrading HM

Software '%(EHEPELYOYVER]ERKPIFMLXITEXHERGITEXTVSWIW TIRKIVNEERR]E

&IVMOYXMRMOMXEFELEWTool Tool HEWEV]ERKHMKYREOERYRXYOTVSWIWgrading

HEVMSoftwarI64(+7

A. Edit size and measurement rt t“Ctrl+E”)

7IXIPELFIVLEWMPQIQFYEXTSPEHEWEVTVSWIWWIPERNYXR]EQIQFYEXTSPE

HIRKERYOYVERWM^IPEMRR]ETVSWIWMRMHMWIFYXGrading

4IVXEQEXEQEOMXEQIRKMWMMRJSVQEWMREQEYOYVERWM^IHERTIRNIPEWERER YOYVERR]EWITIVXMTEHEKEQFEVHMFE[EL

Arahkan pointer ke Toolbar Size dan klik dengan tombol kiri mouse dan pilih Edit Size and Measurement dan klik sekali lagi dengan tombol kiri mouse.

BAB III

34

TOOL GRADING

3

7IPERNYXR]EMWMOSPSQTEHENIRHIPE]ERKXEQTMPWIXIPELOMXEQIQMPMLEdit Size

and Measurement, WITIVXMKEQFEVHMFE[ELMRM

7IXIPELHMMWMWIQYEOSPSQHMEXEWNERKERPYTEHMWMQTERHIRKERXSQFSPSave

HERXIOERXSQFSP3/NMOEXIPELFIVLEWMPWIPIWEM

Klik bagian ini dengan

tombol kiri dan isi dengan ukuran yang lebih

tinggi dari size dasar

Tekan Save untuk menyimpan data ukuran

baru, dan Open jika informasi data ukuran sudah ada atau pernah

dibuat sebelumnya Size basic/ dasar

Klik bagian ini dengan tombol kiri dan isi dengan ukuran yang

lebih rendah dari size dasar

Klik dengan tombol kiri mouse dan isi kolom ini dengan nama ukuran,

TOOL GRADING

35

3

B. +VEHI8EFPI

+VEHI XEFPIEHEPELNIRHIPEXEFIPYRXYOQIQEWYOOERRMPEMWIPMWMLERXEVE

WM^I YOYVER ]ERK EHE Grading4VSWIWMRM WERKEXQIQFYXYLOERketelitian

HEPEQQIQFEGEsize spec YOYVER]ERKEHEOEVIREFMPEXIVNEHMOIWEPELERQEOE

YOYVERTSPEYRXYOsize ]ERKPEMREOERFIVQEWEPEL

4IRKMWMER+VEHI8EFPI8EFIPGrading

Arahkan pointer ke toolbar "Grade Table", kemudian akan tampil jendela Grade table yang harus diisi seperti gambar

disebelah.

Arahkan pointer ke titik grading/ Grade point (Poin yang persegi empat)

Setelah menentukan poin grading, selanjutnya isi tabel dengan selisih nilainya, misalkan untuk nilai panjang Blouse.

Dari data diperoleh bahwa selisih antara size S dan M adalah 2cm, selisih antara sizeM dan L adalah 3cm, dan selisih antarasize L dan XL adalah 7cm. Nilai tersebut dimasukkan ke tabel seperti contoh di sebelah (abaikan +/-).

Jangan lupa untuk memastikan pengisian selisih nilai ukuran di kolom X atau V dan disesuaikan dengan gambar/ arah serat.

36

TOOL GRADING

3

4IRNIPEWERXEFIPgrading

Bila telah selesai jangan lupa SAVE agar tersimpan, dan bisa di buka kembali

lain waktu dengan cara OPEN dari Toolbar “File”.

Tekan bagian ini untuk merubah warna garis pola

Pilih absolut : nilai selisih berdasarkan nilai

selisih aktual

a. Equal X: Jika nilai grading sama selisihnya untuk nilai X

b. Equal V: Jika nilai grading sama untuk arah sumbu V

c. X equal V: Nilai X dan V sama keseluruhannya

d. X non equal grading: Nilainya tidak sama (X) e. V non equal grading: Nilainya tidak sama

untuk Y

f. X V no equal grading: Nilai untuk X dan V tdk sama

g. X equal to 0: merubah nilai X menjadi 0 h. Vequal to 0: merubah nilai V menjadi 0 i. Copy grading: untuk copy nilai grading baik

X / V

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

37

4

BAB IV

PEMBUATAN POLA

ROK

% 4SPE6SO&EKMER(ITER

7METOERYOYVERYRXYOTSPEVSO

7->) 7 1 0 <0

0MRKOEVTMRKKERK

8MRKKMTERKKYP

0MRKOEVTERKKYP

8MRKKMOYTREX

4ERNERKVSO

BAB IV

38

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

/IXIVERKER4SPE6SO&EKMER (ITER

%& TERNERKVSO

&' }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ

%) GQ

)* }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX

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01 TERNERKVSO

12 }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ

04 GQ

45 }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX

56 8MRKKMTERKKYP

27 GQ

48 GQ

89 GQ

/IXIVERKER4SPE&ER4MRKKERK

<: PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQXIQTEXOERGMRKOEMX

:> PIFEVFERTMRKKERK

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

39

4

&YOETVSKVEQ6MGLTIEGI'%(%OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI FYEX OSXEO

HIRKERYOYVERTERNERKVSOHER}PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR FYEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERGEVEHEVM

81TMRKKERKXYVYRGQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQ OYTREX

40

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

&YEXKEVMWFE[ELVSOEVELOERpointer TEHEpoint EGYERWMWMFE[ELVSOOPMOenter

HERMWMXEFIPHIRKERRSQMREPWIWYEMEVELTIVKIWIVERXMXMOWEQFYRKKEVMW]ERK XIVNEHMHIRKERXMXMOXIRKELQYOEFE[ELVSO

&YEX KEVMW TERKKYP QYPEM HEVM XMXMO WMWM TMRKKERK OI EVEL KEVMW TERKKYP

HIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYPGQLYFYRKOERHIRKERXMXMOWMWMFE[EL VSO

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

41

4

4IVFEMOMFIRXYOKEVMWTEHETMRKKERKTERKKYPFE[ELVSOEKEVHMTIVSPIL

KEVMWPIRKOYRK]ERKPY[IW

%OXMJOERTool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE

42

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

%OXMJOERTool :HEVX FYEXOYTREXHIRKERYOYVERNEVEO OYTREXHEVM

TMRKKERKGQPIFEVOYTREXGQTERNERKGQ

%OXMJOERTool pattern symmetry EVELOERpointer HEVMXMXMOE[EP

QMVSVWEQTEMXMXMOEOLMVWEQFMPXELERWLMJX

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

43

4

%OXMJOER :HEVX FYEXOYTREXHIRKERYOYVERNEVEO OYTREXHEVM

TMRKKERKGQPIFEVOYTREXGQTERNERKGQ

%OXMJOER EVELOER HEVMXMXMOE[EP

QMVSVWEQTEMXMXMOEOLMVWEQFMPXELERWLMJX

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERERJMXYVQYRGYP

XEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQEFELER

& 4SPE6SO&IPEOERK

0EOYOERPERKOEL]ERKWEQEYRXYOTSPEVSOFIPEOERKEOXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI

44

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRX TIR FYEX KEVMW TMRKKERK HIRKER GEVE HEVM 81 TMRKKERKXYVYRGQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERK GQ GQ OYTREX

&YEXKEVMWFE[ELVSOEVELOERpointer TEHEpoint EGYERWMWMFE[ELVSOIRXIV MWM XEFIP HIRKER RSQMREP WIWYEM EVEL TIVKIWIVER XMXMO WEQFYRK KEVMW ]ERK XIVNEHMHIRKERXMXMOXIRKELQYOEFE[ELVSO

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

45

4

&YEX KEVMW TERKKYP QYPEM HEVM XMXMO WMWM TMRKKERK OI EVEL KEVMW TERKKYP HIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYPGQLYFYRKOERHIRKERXMXMOWMWMFE[EL VSO

4IVFEMOM FIRXYOKEVMW TMRKKERK TERKKYP FE[EL VSO EKEVHMTIVSPILKEVMW

PIRKOYRK]ERKPY[IW7IPERNYXR]EEOXMJOER JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSO

TSPE

46

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

%OXMJOERTool :HEVX FYEXOYTREXHIRKERYOYVERNEVEO OYTREXHEVM

TMRKKERKGQPIFEVOYTREXGQTERNERKGQ

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHM WIFIPELOERER JMXYVQYRGYP

XEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQEFELER

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

47

4

' 4SPE&ER4MRKKERK

%OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI FYEXOSXEOHIRKERYOYVERTERNERKFER

TMRKKERKTERNERKPMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQYRXYOXIQTEXOERGMRKLEO

%OXMJOERTool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE

48

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPEL OERER JMXYV

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER

( Grading 4SPE 6SO

4IHSQERQIRKMWMRMPEMgrading

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7->) 7 1 0 <0

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8MRKKMTERKKYP

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7)0P7P,

0MRKOEVTMRKKERK !

!

!

8MRKKMTERKKYP

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! !

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

49

4

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPEL OERER JMXYV

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER

( 4SPE 6SO

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7METOERWIPMWMLYOYVER

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0MRKOEVTMRKKERK !

!

!

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XEFIP HIRKER LEWMP WIPMWML HEVM QEWMRKQEWMRK YOYVER WIPERNYXR]E TMPML XIOERXSQFSPWIWYEMHIRKEROSPSQ]ERKHMMWM a. )UYEP<7LMJX<&MPEOSPSQ<]ERKHMMWM%VELLSVM^SRXEPHERRMPEMR]E WEQE2MPEMWIPMWML b. )UYEP=7LMJX=&MPEOSPSQ=]ERKHMMWM%VELZIVXMGEPHERRMPEMR]E WEQE7IPMWMLR]E c. <)UYEP=&MPEOSPSQHMMWMFIVWEQEERHIRKERRMPEM]ERKWEQE d. <2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ< FIVFIHE

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50

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

4

5. ,EWMPgrading

) 4IQFIVMER/EQTYL

%OXMJOERTool EHHWIEQ YRXYOQIQFIVM OEQTYL

* 4IR]YWYRER1EVOIV4SPE6SO

&YOESoftware 4MPMLRI[

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

51

4

-WMOSPSQXEFIP

-WMXEFIPWIPERNYXR]E

%XYVTSPEHIRKERQIQEWYOOEROIEVIEOEMREXEYWIGEVESXSQEXMWHIRKER

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

53

5

BAB V

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

% 4SPE(EWEV&PSYWI

&IVMOYXEHEPELHIWEMRTSPEHEWEVHERWTIWMJMOEWMYOYVERTSPEFPSYWI

BAB V

54

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

/IXIVERKER4SPE(ITER

%) PMRKOEVPILIVGQ

%* PMRKOEVPILIVGQ

)+ GQ

+, ~PIFEVQYOE

+P TERNERKTYRKKYRKGQ%+

P. }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX

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/0!&1 }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ

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P6 GQ

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/IXIVERKER4SPE&IPEOERK

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%* PMRKOEVPILIVGQ

)+ GQ

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+P TERNERKTYRKKYRKGQ%+

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%& KEVMWHEWEVPIRKER

(' 8MRKKMTYRGEOPIRKER

'%!'& ~PMRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER

() 4ERNERKPIRKER'(

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

55

5

/IXIVERKER4SPE/IVEL

%& ~PMRKOEVOIVYRKPILIVGQ

%' GQPIFEVOIVEL

('&) 0IFEVOIVEL

9/96%2430%BLOUSE

7->) 7 1 0 <0

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0IFEVTYRKKYRK

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& 1IQFYEX4SPEBlouse &EKMER(ITER

%OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI FYEXOSXEOHIRKERYOYVERTERNERKTYRKKYRK

GQTERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERKHER}PMRKOEVFEHERGQ

56

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRX TIR FYEXOIVYRKPILIV

&YEXKEVMWPIFEVQYOEHIRKERYOYVERHEVMOIVYRKPILIVXYVYRGQOI WEQTMRKOERER~PIFEV QYOE

&YEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERQIRKYOYVHEVMXMXMOEXEWTERNERKTYRKKYRK GQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

57

5

%OXMJOER MRXIPPMKIRX TIR FYEXOIVYRKPILIV

&YEXKEVMWPIFEVQYOEHIRKERYOYVERHEVMOIVYRKPILIVXYVYRGQOI WEQTMRKOERER~PIFEV QYOE

&YEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERQIRKYOYVHEVMXMXMOEXEWTERNERKTYRKKYRK GQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX

&YEXKEVMWTERKKYPHIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYPHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEV TERKKYPGQ

&YEXKEVMWFELYHIRKERYOYVERVIRHELFELYGQHERTERNERKFELYGQ

%OXMJOERTool GSQTEWWIW YRXYOQIQFYEXOIVYRKPIRKER

58

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFIRXYOOIVYRKPIRKER

+IWIVXMXMOWMWMBlouse FEKMERFE[ELWEQEOERHIRKER}PMRKOEVTERKKYP

GQ

,YFYRKOERXMXMO]ERKXIPELHMFYEXYRXYOKEVMWWMWMBlouse

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

59

5

%OXMJOER MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFIRXYOOIVYRKPIRKER

+IWIVXMXMOWMWM FEKMERFE[ELWEQEOERHIRKER}PMRKOEVTERKKYP

GQ

,YFYRKOERXMXMO]ERKXIPELHMFYEXYRXYOKEVMWWMWM

&YEXKEVMWTEVEPIP YRXYOQIQFYEXJPET FYXXSR PIFEV GQ HIRKER QIRELER

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HIRKERHIRKEROIVYRKPILIV

4IVTERNERKKEVMWFE[ELXIRKELQYOEFYEXKEVMWFE[ELBlouseHERTIVFEMOM

KEVMWEKEVPIRKOYRKFEKMERTERKKYPHERFE[ELBlouse PY[IW7IPERNYXR]E

EOXMJOERTool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE

60

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERER JMXYV

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER

%OXMJOERTool point YRXYOQIQFYEXXMXMOE[EPOYTREXHMFE[ELKEVMW

TMRKKERKHIRKERNEVEOOYTREXHEVMTMRKKERKGQHERTERNERKOYTREX GQ

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

61

5

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERER JMXYV

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER

%OXMJOER YRXYOQIQFYEXXMXMOE[EPOYTREXHMFE[ELKEVMW

TMRKKERKHIRKERNEVEOOYTREXHEVMTMRKKERKGQHERTERNERKOYTREX GQ

%OXMJOERTool JEWXMKMEXI HEVX FYEXOYTREXHEVMYNYRKFE[EL

%OXMJOERTool HVMPP FYEXOERGMRK

%OXMJOERTool FYXXSRLSPI FYEXPYFERKOERGMRK

62

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

' 4SPEBlouse &EKMER&IPEOERK

%OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI FYEX OSXEO HIRKER YOYVER TERNERK

TYRKKYRKGQTERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERKHER}PMRKOEVFEHER

GQ

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR FYEXOIVYRKPILIV

&YEXKEVMWPIFEVTYRKKYRKHIRKERYOYVERHEVMOIVYRKPILIVXYVYRGQOI

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

63

5

&YEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERQIRKYOYVHEVMXMXMOEXEWTERNERKTYRKKYRK GQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX

&YEXKEVMWTERKKYPHIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYPHEROIWEQTMRKOMVM}

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64

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

%OXMJOERTool GSQTEWWIW YRXYOQIQFYEXOIVYRKPIRKER

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFIRXYOOIVYRKPIRKER

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

65

5

4IVTERNERKKEVMWFIPEOERKQYOEFEKMERFE[ELGQ

+IWIVXMXMOWMWMBlouse FEKMERFE[ELWEQEOERHIRKER}PMRKOEVTERKKYP GQ

7IPIWEMOERKEVMWWMWMHERFE[ELBlouse7IPERNYXR]EEOXMJOERTool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE

66

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPEL OERERJMXYV

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER

%OXMJOERTool point YRXYOQIQFYEXXMXMOE[EPOYTREXHMFE[EL

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%OXMJOERTool JEWXMKMEXIHEVX FYEXOYTREXHEVMYNYRKFE[EL

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

67

5

%OXMJOERTool TEXIVRW]QIXV] YRXYOQIQFYOETSPE

( 4SPE0IRKER9OYVER

0MRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER

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%OXMJOERTool GSQTEWWIW FYEXKEVMWHMEKSREPHIRKERYOYVER~

68

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

%OXMJOERHIRKERTool HIZMHIV YRXYOQIQFEKMKEVMW

%OXMJOERTool QSHMJ] YRXYOQIRKKIWIVFIFIVETEXMXMO

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR WEQFYRKXMXMOQIRNEHMKEVMWOIVYRK

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

69

5

%OXMJOERXSSPJSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERERJMXYV

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70

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

&YEXKEVMWHEWEVOIVELHIRKERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR ~PMRKOEVPILIV

–GQ

+EVMWXIKEPPYVYWXMRKKMOIHYHYOEROIVELPIFEVOIVEL

&YEXOIVELFEKMERFE[EL

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

71

5

&YEXKEVMWHEWEVOIVELHIRKER MRXIPPMKIRXTIR ~PMRKOEVPILIV

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+EVMWXIKEPPYVYWXMRKKMOIHYHYOEROIVELPIFEVOIVEL

&YEXOIVELFEKMERFE[EL

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%OXMJOERTool QSHMJ] YRXYOQIRKKIWIVYNYRKOIVEL

%OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFYEXKEVMWPIRKOYRK

%OXMJOERXSSPJSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE

72

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

%OXMJOER XSSP

YRXYOQIQFYEXTSPEOIVELYXYL

/PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERERJMXYV QYRGYP

XEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQEFELER

* 4SPE-RXIVPMRMRK

%OXMJOERTool QEOIMRXIVPMRMRK WIPIGOTMPMLKEVMWFEKMERTSPE]ERK

EOERHMFYEXMRXIVPMRMRK

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

73

5

0EOYOERYRXYOWIQYEFEKMERMRXIVPMRMRK

G. Grading 4SPEBlouse

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74

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

4ERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERK

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!

!

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PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

75

5

%OXMJOER KVEHIXEFPI OPMO TEHE XMXMO TSPE ]ERK EOER HMgrading MWM XEFIP HIRKER LEWMP WIPMWML HEVM QEWMRKQEWMRK YOYVER WIPERNYXR]E TMPML XIOERXSQFSPWIWYEMHIRKEROSPSQ]ERKHMMWM

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b. )UYEP=7LMJX=&MPEOSPSQ=]ERKHMMWM%VELZIVXMGEPHERRMPEMR]E WEQE7IPMWMLR]E

c. <)UYEP=&MPEOSPSQHMMWMFIVWEQEERHIRKERRMPEM]ERKWEQE

d. <2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ< FIVFIHE

e. =2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ=FIVFIHE

f. <=2SR)UYEP2MPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ<HER= FIVFIHE

76

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

5

H. 4IR]YWYRER1EVOIV4SPEBlouse

&YOE7SJX[EVI TMPMLRI[

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PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

77

5

4IR]YWYRER1EVOIV4SPE

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79

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