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6 | TOXICOLOGY AND SKIN SENSITISATION

The skin contact allergy of essential oils or their constituents is a concern in fragrance compounding, and PEO is not an exception.309,372,373Neat or as the main constituent of PEO, patchoulol is a fragrance ingredient used in decorative cosmetics, fine fragrances, shampoos, toilet soaps and other toiletries as well as in non‐cosmetic products such as house- hold cleaners and detergents. In neat form, its use annual worldwide use is 0.5‐1 metric tonne, whereas the consumption of the essential oil is much bigger at ~1300 tonnes. Belsito et al. have made an assessment of the general toxicological and dermatological risk of many terpene alcohols including patchoulol‐containing products.374Their conclusion was that patchoulol has a low order of acute toxicity with dermal and oral NOAELs (no observed adverse effect levels) of 50 mg/kg body weight/day or greater and is negative in mutagenicity and genotoxicity tests. At current use levels, patchoulol is non‐irritating and sensitisation potential is generally low. In a separate note the results specific to patchoulol were summarised by Bhatia et al.375In a rat study, PEO orally administered for 90 days at a level in excess of at least 100 times the maximum estimated daily dietary intake in man evoked no adverse effect on growth, food consumption, haematology, blood chemistry, liver and kidney weights or on gross and microscopic appearance of major organs at autopsy.376

Over time, various groups have investigated PEO in more detail with respect to the risk of triggering allergic reactions on the skin.

Nakayama et al. found 3“strongly positive”and 8“weakly positive” reactions to“Patchouli oil”(unknown test concentration) in patch tests with 183 patients.377 The number of patients, mostly Japanese women, with pigmented cosmetic dermatitis thought to be caused in part by PEO, decreased significantly after 1978 when major cosmetic manufacturers began to eliminate strong contacts sensitizers (e.g., cinnamaldehyde) from their products.378 Clinical data published in 2002 reported that 0.8% positive reactions to PEO (10% in petrolatum) in 1606 consecutive patients were observed.379A more recent study on patch results with PEO identified 0.6% positive reactions in 2446 consecutively tested patients and 1.4% positive reactions in 828 patients tested in the context of a special series.380For assessing skin contact allergy of cosmetics, two "fragrances mixes" (14 components in total), the 26 allergens,381 which need to declared in cosmetics, and several essential oils were tested. When PEO was patch‐tested in this study (10% concentration in petrolatum), 53 patients out of 5539 (1%) gave a positive reaction.382It is regrettable that, no informa- tion was given in this report about the intensities of the reactions, and none of these reports gave any information about the quality of the tested essential oils (origin, genuineness, age, peroxide value, etc.).

Some of the above studies have been summarised by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety of the EU.383

Among the constituents ever reported in PEO, at least six are restricted in fragrance compounding: limonene, linalool, citronellol, farnesol,206eugenol,271and isophorone.252Whereas limonene, linal- ool, citronellol, farnesol and eugenol are suspected skin sensitisers with restricted use levels384 or purity requirements with regard to the level of oxidation, isophorone91is officially classified as a CMR (carcinogen, mutagen, reprotoxic) and should not be used at all as a fragrance ingredient.385However eugenol68occurs only at low ppm

levels in genuine PEO (see § 3.3) and the presence of isophorone and farnesol has not been confirmed to date. The other above cited compounds are trace elements in patchouli (<150 ppm) and can be detected and quantified accurately only by using a validated specific GC‐MS method.386 One should not rule out however that the presence of these compounds in PEO is the result of contamination during harvesting, distillation or manufacturing.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is the driving force among regulatory authorities in implementing the European Union's groundbreaking chemicals legislation for the benefit of human health and the environment as well as for innovation and competitiveness.

Just as for any other chemical entering the EU or used in the EU, ECHA provides information on PEO and addresses toxicological concerns.387

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C O N C L U S I O N

Among the sesquiterpene‐rich essential oils in the category "natural woody commodities", patchouli is of major importance for the fragrance industry. Similar to other important raw materials of this type such as vetiver and sandalwood oils (and to a lesser extent agarwood), sesquiterpenes represent more than 95% of PEO, including at least six nor‐and two seco‐sesquiterpenes, but its composition has not yet been investigated in‐depth to the same level. Hence, whereas more than 150 volatile constituents have been identified in vetiver,5sandalwood,3and agarwood,4including many minor or even trace elements of high olfac- tory relevance, the number of such compounds identified so far in PEO is unfortunately smaller. Considering that the main vectors of the earthy‐mouldy note, namely the trio patchoulol33, norpatchoulenol 34and nortetracyclopatchoulol35, alone cannot account for the rich- ness and high complexity of PEO odour, there is an on‐going need to identify more high impact odour‐donating components of PEO, includ- ing carbonyl‐containing sesquiterpenes such as rotundone40.

It is noteworthy that only six important odour contributors have been conclusively identified during a 30‐year period (1962‐92) represented by

~25% of the references cited in the present review, and no such compo- nents–with exception of rotundone–have been identified during the last 25‐year period representing ~65% of the references! Notwithstanding the very recent findings concerning ultra‐trace constituents,165this is a para- dox, when one considers the availability of efficient GC‐olfactometry devices to pinpoint key odorants, and improved separation techniques as well as more sensitive and powerful spectroscopic tools for the identifica- tion of complex chemical structures. The launching in the late 1980s of low cost GC‐MS systems, leading to a proliferation of lower quality publica- tions in the domain of essential oil analysis, partially accounts for this regrettable situation. More GC‐MS analyses will by themselves not provide the structures of the many still unknown PEO constituents, even if occur- ring at the 1‐2% level.

Furthermore, what happens in fresh patchouli leaves during the

"drying‐fermentation" step and subsequent storage prior to steam distillation in relation to PEO odour is still enigmatic and remains to be clarified, despite recent reports.388-390This holds also true for the ill‐understood increase in olfactory quality of PEO after years of storage. Finally, the fate of some genuine leaf constituents–already identified or pending identification–during the distillation process also needs to be better understood. The present review is therefore a

strong invitation for skilled phytochemists to reopen, in collaboration with other scientists, the patchouli case.

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S U M M A R Y O F S U P P L E M E N T A R Y I N F O R M A T I O N

The Supplementary Information belonging to this paper consists of:

Table S1. List of non‐cited patchouli‐related papers of which the focus is outside the scope of this review or contain possibly erroneous analytical chemical data. Papers are presented in chronological order.

Figure S1. Complete chromatogram of PEO B (see also Figure 7b), i.e., including monoterpenes.

Figure S2. Chromatogram of oil B (Figure 7b) on a dimethyl polysiloxane phase (DB1).

Figure S3. Chromatogram of oil B (Figure 7b) on a polyethylene glycol phase (Wax).

Figure S4. Complete gas chromatogram of a commercial steam distilled PEO on a 30 m DB5 stationary phase with a different temper- ature programme.

Figure S5. Chromatogram of heavily adulterated commercial PEO on a DB5 phase.

A C K N O W L E D G E M E N T S

We gratefully acknowledge Bo Chen, Xiao Wei, Bruno Maurer, Charles Cornwell, Arnaldo Bandoni, Philip Kraft, Robin Clery, Shashikumar Paknikar, Brian Lawrence, Toshio Hasegawa, Anil Pant, Arjen Schots, David Leach, Suaib Luqman, Andre Krause, Annette Bierman, Pat Sandra, Luigi Mondello, Lydia Ziegler, Sascha Beutel, Laura McGregor, Eranki Prakasa Rao, Louis Peyron, Sabrina Boutefnouchet, Keita Tanaka and Liang Xiong for providing information, literature or translations.

Without their generous help this review would not be the same. We are greatly indebted to Maarten Posthumus who kindly provided us with the results of many of his unpublished but very high‐quality analyses of patchouli oils and the corresponding chromatograms some of which made it into this review (Figure 7a‐c). Last but not least we wish to thank the late Hans Siwon who set up his own patchouli distillation facility in Indonesia and carried through several innovations leading to oils with dif- ferent olfactory properties. Over a period of ten years, he gave both authors many high‐quality genuine patchouli oils and proverbially speak- ing he planted the small seed that eventually led to this review.

O R C I D

Teris A. van Beek http://orcid.org/0000-0002-9843-7096 Daniel Joulain http://orcid.org/0000-0001-9662-9732

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