g M M r M N H LAPVA PHATTRIEN KHOA CONG NGHEMAYVA THIET KE THOII TRANG
NGUYEN TAC TAO HINH KHOI PHOM D A N G
TRANG PHUC
ThS. N g u y e n T h j Q u y n h M a i Khoa Cong nghe IVlay va Thiet ke t h d i trang Trudng Bai hpc Cong Nghiep Ha Noi
i.MdoAu
Hinh khdi luon tdn tai trong cudc sdng cua chung ta tUtUnhien den nhan tao. Hlnh khdi n h i n tao dUpc thiet ke phuc vu con ngudi chinh II tac pham nghe thuat.TU nhdng eong trinh to Idn, cac may mdc hien dai den cac vat dung nhd be deu cd sU nghien cdu ve hinh khdi phuc vu cho con ngUdi hdu ich va tham my nhat. Trong do nhu cau mac cua con ngudi ngay cang phUc tap.
Thiet ke thdi trang cd tinh d|c thii rieng biet, khac voi cae nganh khac.
Hinh khdi trong thdi trang co nhUng nguyen ly nhat djnh, khdng t h i pha bd.
*/iec nghien cdu hinh khdi ndi chung i/a cac dang khdi trong thdi trang ndi rieng tao ra nhdng san pham thdi trang phong phu v l kieu dang, da dang ve kit cau, d^m bao tinh nguyen ly.
2. NGUYEN T A C T A O H I N H K H 5 1 PHOM D A N G TRANG PHUC
Hinh khdi trang phuc dUpc xac djnh aang khdi eo the ngudi. Co t h i ngudi la dang khdi k i l n tao t u nhien tU k i t cau :0, bap thit va xUOng dUpc t h i hien ro Ing. Bdi vay, khi tao mau trang phuc chong the suy nghT v l su tao khdi tae Dham ddc lap ma la khoi trang phue dd i h u the nio? Cau thanh khdi trong bo :uc trang phuc cung ed cae nguyen tSc :ua nd. £>d la tinh ty le, su tuong phan,
;ac thai, t i l t tau vanhjp.
2 . 1 . Tyle
T^ le la mpt phUOng ti^n quan trpng :ua bd cue, I I mdt trong nhCfing nguyen
ly td chdc n^n khoi cua trang phuc. De dat dagc tinh ty le bang phuong phap true t i l p nhat t h i l t phai xac djnh ty le.
Trong qua trinh xac dinh ty le thudng niy sinh nhieu van de nhU: lieu mpt chi t i l t nay, hay mpt ehi t i l t khac cd tuong hpp hay khdng ve kich ed doi vdi CO t h i con ngudi, ddi vdi khdi d i n g chung trang phuc, ddi vdi dien tieh cua mpt bp phan nao dd tren trang phuc hay khong? Hon nUa chinh dien tich sU phan chia bd phan cCia trang phuc lai lien quan den dien tich cua ehinh t h i . D l t h i l t lap ty le cua cau true khdi, bat dau t h i l t lap t d sU thay ddi cua cac y l u td tao ra he thdng phan doan true ngang va thang ddng, 6iSpc quy djnh bang moi quan he t o i n hpc. Sin pham duoc chia thanh cac phan bang nhau the hien cam giac tinh, khdng bang nhau t h i hien cam giac dpng.
Tinh ty le co mdt y nghia quyet dinh trong q u i trinh tao phom d i n g trang phuc, I I tuong quan giCfa khoi cua trang phucvdi khdi cothe con ngudi. Vdi sutdn tai do trang phuc ed moi quan he chat ehe vdi con ngudi. Dd la tinh kha dung, ma nhd no con ngudi de dang sd dung dupc trang phuc. Tinh ty- le la d i l u kien quan trpng dam bao sU tdn tai cua bat ky san pham nghe thuat nao. Phan Idn ty le duac xac djnh tinh trpn ven cCia cau true khdi san pham. Bdi khdi cothe ngudi nam "ben trong" khdi trang phuc, vi vay khdi trang phuc phai tuan theo hinh dang va hoat ddng eua co t h i nguc^.
Cac ty le dUoc chia theo sd hpc (hay cdn gpi la modun) va hinh hpc.Trong ty le sd hpc, mdi lien he giUa cac phan va tong the 6itac the hien bang su lap di lap lai cua mpt khoing rpng quy dinh thdng nhat. Cac t^ le hinh hpc 6uac tao ra tren sU can bSng eua cae mdi quan he v l dupc the hien trong hinh hpc ddng dang cac phan doan cua khdi.Ty le cCia t i l t dien vang dupe coi la mpt phan cua ty le hinh hpc. Vi vay, d i l u dau ti^n khi bat dau phic thao trang phue chinh la t^ le phom dang va ty le tUOng quan giijfa cac phan. Xac djnh b i n ve cua khuon vai, danh dau kieu dang cUa tay, co ao v l than hlnh san pham la ehUa du, can hieu moi quan he cua chling vdi nhau n h u t h i nao? Mdi quan he gida chung vdi hinh dang cua eon ngudi ra sao? Cho nen, ty !e dupc coi la mpt trong nhUng phuong thdc chinh CLia ket eau, vdi sU giup dP cua ket eau dat dupe tinh hai hoa cua trang phue va to chdc k i l u d i n g cua nd.Ty le la he thdng do cd sin, trong do mdi quan he cCia cac yeu to kieu dang tao ra cau triJc hinh khoi khdng gian. N l u nhu cd su can nhac t;i' le se tao dUpc sU toan ven cua khoi phom d i n g . V l b i n chat ty le duoc coi la mpt phuong tien quan trong cua sU hai hda k i l u d i n g .
Su phan chia cac ty le trong trang phuc dupc quy djnh bang chUc nang cOa nd, dac trung phong cich va dac trung mdt, m l chung tdn tai trong mpt giai doan nao do. Tuy nhien, trong mdc
So 17.2013-TapdiiKHOAHOC&CONGNGHE 1 7
Hinh 1. Quan he tuong phan cua khoi phom dang trang phuc
Hinh 2 Trang phut cung ffinh chau Au cuoi the ky XVI
dp CO the hpc cua sU hinh thanh trang phuc, bai bao dua ra dac diem, ty le cua cac n h i n to phom dang bSng sU phan chia cd dieu kien cua hinh the con ngudi dupc gpi la dai cau tnic
Nhu vay, y nghia quan trpng trong q u i trinh t h i l t ke mi tac gia dUa ra la van d l d i l u chinh ty le, tao dieu kign cho viec chu y tdi cae quy luat cua d m n h i n thj giac. NhiJmg b i l n ddi ty le thdi trang hien hanh theo cac vUng thiet kS tren eO sd dai eau true eua cO t h i con ngudi. Dd la phuong phap phan tieh d l tao ra diem djnh hudng khi lUa chpn cic phuong hudng t h i l t ke trang phuc.
2.2. SU tuong phan
Tuong p h i n la mpt trong nhdng phUOng tien hieu qui nhat cua bd cue. Ban chat eCia sU tUOng p h i n II so sanh, sif ddi pho eCia nhUng nguyen ly khic nhau, va I n h hUdngsi/
tuong p h i n len dae tinh cua bd cue. Khi dat tren co sd cila khdi phom dang, sU tUOng p h i n nhu mpt nguyen tSc th^
hien t u tudng chu dao cCia s i n pham. Trong t h i l t k l thfti trang, nen sd dung sU tuong p h i n nhu mpt nguyen tk, 6t cung nhu II mdt chiln lupe eua bd cue.
Bd cue tuong p h i n ludn eo tac dung manh doi vdi thj giac, bdi su doi lap du chi cd hai n h i n td cung da lim cho phom dang trd nen bieu e l m . Hinh t h i ngUdi la co sd ciia b6 eye trang phue, nP dupe coi la dai dien mang sU tuong phin.
Tren thUe te cac dUdng ngang cCia vai, dudng eo, canh tay v l nhdng dUdng dai cau tao tUOng phan vdi nhQng diiPng thiing ddng cua cau true cO the ngudi, true dpc eCia thin minh k i t thiic d hinh ovan cua dau ngudi.
Dieu nay cd the nhin thay d hinh 1, kieu dang t d hinh thang chuyin sang ket hpp tuong phin vdi hinh chd nhat. Kich thUiSC hlnh thang dupc rut ngin t d td, cdn kich thude hinh chd nhSt tang len ro rang.
Su tuong p h i n phom dang bd sung cho sutinh tecua ki^u dang trang phuc, the hien sU nhay cam cCia tri gilc. TUtJng p h i n noi each khac nd la mue dich cua trang phue, chdc nang cilia trang phue theo each to chdc khac nhau ve cau true hinfi khdi khong gian cua nd. Vi§c tang the tich khoi cOa trang phuc dem tdi sU nang n l cua than hinh gay elm giac it vSn ddng, cho dCi rat hoanh trang. D i l u nay do khdng cd sU tham gia cua khdng gian. Vi du trang phuc cung dmh chau Au cu$
the ky XVI dupc coi la trang phuc nhan manh sU ky vT cCia cofi ngudi, gia tri cua eon ngudi (hinh 2).
6 day su tuong phan cua trang phue nd gidi nhin thay ro net, su tuong p h i n dd co khi bi dUa tdi mdc nghjch ly. Hinti t h i cua vay, eo va hai tay ldn, bd trang phuc qua nang mi cdng nang cCia nd that dac biet, nd p h i i nhan manh dK^c tinh chat vT dai cua nhdng con ngudi dupe chpn, cic th&nti v i l n cua hoang gia, cung nhu cac n h i n vat xung quanh hq Cho nen, sUtUOng p h i n cua phom dang trang phuc the hl^f c l y nghTa nhan van xa hpi.
18 TapdiiKHOAHOC&CONGNGHE- So 1 7 . 2 0 1 3
y 11/^' IH LAP VA PHAT TRIEN KHOA CONG NGHE MAY VA THIET KE THdl TRANG
Tren day, chung ta da xem xet trucfrig ipp cua su tuong p h i n nhu la mpt iguyen tSc trong cau tao, hinh thanh en khdi phom d i n g trang phuc. Neu ihu sU dung tat e l nhdng dudng ngang I'a th^ng ddng sin cd gidng nhu nhijfng ihan to khdi dau ed t h i cd rat nhilu rudnghopnhuvay Tuy nhien, kha nang
;ang tao cua cac nha thiet ke cd nhUng :ao hlnh khac nhau. SU tim kiem khac ihau tao n i n Wioi trang phue, vide sd Jung nhiJfng tao hinh khae nhau trong [hoi trang phuc lam giim kha nang da Jang cCia tao hinh tuong phin.
2.3. Sic thai
Sic thai la mpt phuong tien eua k i t :au, cd y nghia quan trpng khong kem
;u tuong p h i n . Khac vdi tUOng phan,
;lc t h l i la sii kit hap thay ddi nhd, sU Jilu chlnh nhdng nguyen ly k i t eau luoc coi la ket hpp cua phom d i n g :hung v l dudng net.
Cich tao sic t h l i thay ddi khdng ehi :ho viec mang lai k i t cau trang phyc U hoan thien phoi hop c l phom d i n g n l con viec t i l p nhan thay doi phom JIng. D i l u nay cP vj tri quan trpng rong mdi lan tao mot. Cho nen, each ao sic t h l i xuat hi^n gidng nhau nhu not sU k l tuc tinh hieu q u i thdi trang rong c l thay doi nhd, va trong ca quy imh dau tien cua thdi trang.
Trong hinh 3, nhd sU giup dd cua :ach tao sac thai cic dUdng net v l the ich ma dat dupc sU thay ddi ve kich cd :ieu dang, the tich khdi phom d i n g tU ihd tdi dp Idn tdi da. Nhufng yeu td cua linh the con ngUdi dUOc coi la nhdng eu td dieu chinh, chUng duoc djnh llnh b i n g nhdng d i i m giai phau, hay luoc coi la gia 6d quan ao tren co t h i .
' I m | , ,
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Hinh 3 Mot so s^c thai tieu bleu cua hinh khoi iom ddng trang phuc
Cdthesangtlckieu mau trang phuc mdi bang sddung each tao sic thai cua cac dudng net va the tich. Nhdng k i l m tim sic thai phom dang trang phyc se khien hlnh the dupe xuat hien khoang dat hon cung nhufng y tUdng phom dang va b i l n the xd ly cu t h i .
Hinh chd nhat va hinh thang la eac
td chdc k i t cau, nd khdng kem phan quan trong hOn cic phuong tien khac.
Cf day, vai trp thude v l nhjp la trat tU k i t hop cUa nhdng y l u to khdng d i u nhau. Viee lap lai tiet tau eua nhdng y l u td n i o do trong to chdc bd eye trang phuc phai tuan thCi theo nhip.
Tilt tau la trudng hpp rieng cua nhip.
Hinh 4.Tao sac thai hinh chCX va hinh ovan cua trang phuc hinh thUc phom cO b i n v l sinh ddng.
Dang hinh chU X bd s i t cd d i l n la b i l n t h i cua cae hinh nay va tuan thCi quy luat cua phep tao sac t h l i . Phep tao sac thai cua cic hinh the n i y v l co ban van giU dupe npi dung eua chung, dd I I elm giac yen bmh, can bang. Mac du mdt sd bien t h i gay an tUOng ve tinh dpng, tinh tong t h i n h i l u hon nhUng bien the tinh (hlnh 4.a).
Trang phuc hlnh khdi ovan xuat hien h i l m hon trong thdi trang, va thdng tri kha n g i n ngCii, trong khi nd hay thay doi va tdn tai dudi dang phan doan hau nhu d mpi kieu d i n g . NhUng khi ddng vai tro chu dao cua trang phyc, thi hinh ovan tao nen sac t h l i manh bdi nd p h i n dng rat ro net vdi tinh bieu elm cua hinh tUpng (hinh 4.b).
Nhin chung, sac t h l i la mot yeu td khien sU vat trd nen hch lam, tmh t l . Ylu to nay lam rd sU phan biet gida trang phuc dupe t h i l t k l tinh xao vdi cic loai hang thap cap hon. Chung ta thudng 6\iac cam nhan dieu nay khi ngam nhin mpt bd trang phue 6itac suy tinh ky ludng ve phom dang, m l u sic va chat lieu. Dupc xd ly cdng nghe va cat may kheo leo se tao duoc sU hoan h i o cua s i n pham.
2.4.Tiettau vanhjp T i l t t l u va nhjp cung la phuong tien
I I nhan td eua nhip. Nd td chUc nen sU luin phien cLia cle y l u td bang nhau ve dai lupng kich thude thdng qua nhdng khoing each b i n g nhau. Trat t u nay bao gdm phuong thdc dau tten cua each phan doan t^ 1^, tUc la chia t h i n h cic phan d i u nhau. Dd la quy t i e nhjp don giln nhat, lap lai hien tUpng khdng gian hay thc^ gian qua cic khoing bang nhau.
Cd t h i quan sat thay each x l p nhip nay trong am nhac, khilu vij, kiln trOc.
Chung ta cd the thay each to chdc nhip trong trang phuc, tuy nhien sU t h i hien quy t i c nhjp ciing cd the mang tinh kep, tUc la theo c l hang va true.
Bien the dau tidn x i y ra khi be mat k i l u dang dupe xU I;?, vi dy vay dupe tao nen nhd nhdng n i p xep nhd k i l u li xep (hlnh 5). Nhd be mat nay ma cung bd tri dupe khuy v l khuyet. Biln t h i t h d hai cua cich xep nhip don g i l n nhat theo true, duoc the hien trong cich dat tui, cd tay, n i p tui.
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Hinh 5. To chiJc tiet tau cua phom trang phuc
So 17.2013-TapdiiKHOAHOC&CONGNGHE 1 9
Cae y l u td don gian nhat cd the hop thanh nhQng y l u td cd co sd nhjp va tao ra don vi t i l t tau lap lai qua-nhdng khoang deu nhau hay qua mpt chu ky bao gdm cac khoang va cac y l u td. Cac to hpp nhu the co the la cic nhdm x l p nep t r l n vay khi ma mdtip bao gdm cic x l p n i p CO dp rpng khae nhau, khi dd cd the vach dupc true ddi xdng trong mdtip do. Vi dy hpa t i l t hoa van trong trang phuc dan tdc. Chinh nhUng hpa tiet trang tri ddang spe eP t h i dupe tao t h i n h nhUng soc b i n g nhau v l chieu rpng, luan phien k l t i l p nhau thong qua nhUng khoing deu nhau. Su luan phien t i l t tau cCia cac mPtlp bang cac khoing deu dan la trUdng hpp phUc tap hon eCia lap t i l t tau.Thpc chat, viec luan phien cac yeu td don gian b i n g nhau qua cac khoang d i u nhau va luan phien qua cac mdtip nhU nhau, nhung phdc tap hon v l noi dung ma cd true ddi xdng la suthe hien can thilt.
Lap t i l t tau la quy luat dupc bpc Id ro cua viec td chdc cac y l u td, bdi vay hinh thdc va kich thudc cua cic yeu td phii duoc kiem tra ranh re, n l u mdt sU bat can nhd nhat v l kich thudc ed the p h i vd tinh hieu qua eCia phuong tien bd cue nay, lam cho bd cue trd nen that bai.
Khae vdi lap t i l t tau, quy luat m l nhjp dua ra dupe the hien trong nhdng thay ddi tuan t u v l sd luong d mpt loat nhdng y l u td luan phien nhau. Dd la su gia t i n g hay g i i m di trong su luan phien cac khoi, cic dien tich, sp dam dac hay lam loang ra cCia eau true, eua cic vet mau. Trlt t u nhip dem lai ehuyin dpng bd cue cho phom dang.
Khac vdi t i l t tau, trat t u nhip la phuong tien "llnh dao" vile tao bo cue cho kieu dang. Khi thay doi trat tuhay mUc tang, mdc g i i m cua chuoi nhjp, khdi lupng cae y l u td thi cd t h i tang eudng hay giam di tinh ddng cua k i l u dang. Tinh dpng ciJa kieu d i n g dupc chung ta ghi n h i n nhu su ehuyen dpng cua m i t theo hudng t i n g hoac giam cac y l u td cua chuoi (hinh 6).
Hinh 6. To chu'c nhip cua phom dang Cau true nhjp nOi cac kilu dang trang phue dupe quy dinh bdi cO sd eau true cua trang phuc la vdc dang eon ngudi. Chung ta da ban ve viec vdc d i n g mang tinh dpng va eau tao g i l i phau ve thuc chat la chuoi nhjp cua cac kieu dang dupc tao nen theo nguyen t i c m i t elt vang. Dat nhjp bo eye trong trang phyc ludn p h i i bat dau t d xle dinh trat t u nhip cua phom tdng the, do la phom than va dng tay ao. Day la hai yeu td dau tien eua chudi nhip, nhung de the hien quy tac nhjp eung nhU moi tuong quan ty le thi cd ba yeu td. Yeu td thd 3 I I phom dang bao quanh dau: cd ao, mij trum ao va mu. Nhu vay, trong mdt bp trang phuc it nhi't eP ba dai lupng kich thUde hay ba bo phan phom dang cd t h i bao quanh lay cac bp phan dau, than minh, tay.
Viec xae dinh quy t i e nhip cua cae phom bp p h i n de nham to chdc phom trang phuc thanh mot chinh the can ddi, hai hoa.
3. K^T LUAN
Phom dang trang phyc la mpt k i t cau phdc tap, dii chung ta cd cd gang dua no ve mpt hinh dang hinh hpc nao (vf du hinh chd nhat hay hinh thang) thi trong thue te nd van dupe cau tao t d nhUng hinh t h i eo dudng net da dang, ed nhdng gde m i m mai, su chuyen hda phdc tap t d dudng thang sang dudng cong va k i t cau eua nd thi khdng gidng vdi hinh tinh tai. Khdng cd chuyin dpng quan tinh nhu hinh vudng, hinh lap phuong, hinh trdn hay hinh cau. Ngupc lai, su phdi hop nhip nhang an khdp cua k i l u dang trang phuc trong mdt ehUng mUe nhat dinh se phy thudc vao ehuyen dpng cua khdng gian nghieng
vdi nhdng dUdng net lien mach.
Trong qua trinh td chdc bd cue 1^
khdi trang phuc, cdng viee dau ti^n laia djnh phom dang tdng the. Do chinh I, vieexac^nh hinh khdi eua eo the va hlnl khdi trang phuc, t d do tao nen tac ph^
cd tinh chuyen nghiep va chuyen bi^t Su e l m nhan ve phom ding trow thdi trang I I yeu td quyet djnh suth^n!
bai cua tac pham. IVIiu trang phuc a lam bang chat lieu dat tien, gia coni cau ky ma phom d i n g khdng eotini tao hinh thi eung ehi la t i c phim bini thudng. Hinh khoi trang phyc giiip ti khao sat phan tieh t i l n trinh phlttfiei trang phuc qua eac thdi dai. Nguyei t i c tao hinh khoi phom ding tram phuc cd vai trd rat quan trpng tronc viee to chdc bd cue trang phuc, No pha la yeu t d xle djnh dau tien trong qu;
trinh sang t i c thdi trang.
TAI Lieu THAIUIKHAO
[l].Tran Thiiy Binh-Pham Hong, Kythuattao mi va vat tieu thin trang, NXB Khoa hoc ky thuat, 199Z
[2j. Nguyen Ngoc Dung, Hgc ve ngifcil, NKBTs hoa, 1994.
[3]. Vu Cao eSm, Phuong phap luan nghienol khoa hoc, NXB Khoa hgc ky thuat, 2005.
[4]. Nguyen Sdc SiJng, Hinh khoi va Bo cucinn khoi - Bai giang mon Co soi tao hinh khoi khong gia trifcfng Dai Hoc My thuat Cang Nghiep Ha Noi, 2011?
[5]. Khuc VanThong, Nguyen lyth<im my ttii gii trong tao hlnh va design thi giac - Bai giing mi Nguyen ly thi giac, trucmg 6ai Hoc My thuat (oi Nghiep Ha Ngi, 2008.
[6]. Tan Hoa Tuyen- Nguyen Duy Lam dich,Oli tao hlnh, NXB Thie'm Tay, 1999.
(71. PatrickJohnJreland, Fashion DesignDm*
and Presentaition, Batsford Limited London, 2(Xft [8]. Organize The Korean Society for ClalH Industry, The 9th internatione fashion exhibifion professor, 2007.
20:TapdiiKHOAHOC&CONGNGHE. So 1 7 . 2 0 1 3
