i cau - TRAO DOI
Trien vong thj trirdng
thdi trang xa xi Viet Nam
BCIl THI H 6 H G NHaNO'
Cung vdi da tang trtfdng kinh td', mffc sdng cua ngtfdi dSn ng^y mOt tdng ldn, Vi$t Nam dtfdc nhin nh^n la mdt trong nhffhg thi trtfdng tidu dung phat triln nhanh nhd't Ddng Nam A va dtfdc cac nha phSn tich nhSu dinh rang, Vi$t Nam CO du dilu ki$n thu$n M cho vide md rOng v£i phat triln nganh hang xa xi, d^c bi$t thi trtfdng thdi trang. Vdi ting ldp trung ItfU va thtfdng ltfu ngay cang nhilu, ddn sd' tre thu nh^p ngay cai^ tSng da thuc d^y nhu cSu mua s i m ddi vdi thi trtfdng nay. Dilu nay da md ra ctf hOi cho cac thtfdng hi^u cao cSp cua thd'gidi trong thi trtfdng tidu dung thM trang xa d d Vidt Nam. Bai vilt nghidn ciJu v l triln vong th) trtfdng thdi trang xa xi d Vi^t Nam, tuT do giup cac nha dlu ttf cd nhihig quyi't dinh phii hdp khi tham gia vao thi trtfdng nay.
THl/C TR>^NG THI TRl/dNG THCTl TRANG XA xi TREN THE Cidl VA d VlfT NAM
Ngdnh thcfi trang xa xi trdn to^ gidi bat nguln Iff Phap nhtf hang todi ttang Cartier dtfdc thanh liip tai Paris vao nam 1847 bdi Louis Francois Cartier va Louis Vuitton dtfde toanh lap vao nam 1854. Vdo khoang tolky XX, khi ede cdng ty toan cau cua Y, Phdp vd My toam gia vdp ngdnh cong nghidp todi ttang xa xi, thi nhihig toay dli trong mdi trtfdng kinh doanh da khien nhieu cdng ty todi ttang dp dung ede phffdng toffc quan Iy mdi vd cde cdu trde t l chffc mdi, ching ban nhtf; sdp nhdp, mua lai vd hdn minh giffa cdc cdng ty... Do dd, trong toe ky XX, stf phdt triln eda hoat ddng kinh doanh hdng xa xi da dich chuyen sang nhttng totfdng hieu cd chat Iffcfiig vffdt ti^i nhff Tdp dodn LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) Id mdt tirong nhffng ede tdp doan xa xi Idn nhd't tod'gidi hidn nay (sd hffu tren 70 toffdng hieu xa xi trdn loan tod'gidi, trong dd ed Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Giveneby,
1: XEP HANG CAC THffdNG Hlf O THdl 'mANG XA x i PHO BIEM MHAT TRtTi TH^ Gidl
mam
Louis Vuinon Hermes Chanel Prada Rolex Cartier Chanel Jurberrv
Coach Fendi NgL
Louis Vuitton Hermes Gucci Chanel Rolex Cartier Prada Burberrv Micheal Kors
Tiffani on' Tong hdp
Louis Vuitton Hermes Gucci Chanel Rolex Cartier Burberrv Prada Tiffani Dior cua tac gia
Louis Vuitton Hermes Gucci Chanel Rolex Cartier Burberrv Prada
Dior Tiffani If Bao cao
( — ^ B S ^ m Louis Vuitton Hermes Gucci Chanel Rolex Burberrv
Prada Dior BrandZ cac n
Louis Chanel
Rolex
Dior Prada m 20)4-2019
Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Fendi, DKNY, Hermes, Bulgari...) dffdc hinh todito todng qua ede thffdng vu sdp nhdp.
Tff todp nidn 90 cua tiie k^ XX, vdi nhihig toay doi v^ kinh te, xa hpi vd edng nghd, Ihi trffdng ede sdn ph^m xa xl da chdhg kien sff tang trtfdng ngoan muc. Do sffc mua ngay cang lang vd qud tihih cdng nghidp hda dffde tao ra bdi cdc nha sdn xuCt, sff tdng trffdng ngoan muc cda thi trtfdng hang xa xi da dan den stf ph6 bidn cda hang hda ndy. Nhieu sdn pham xa xi trtfdc Ida dtfdc mua vdi sd Itfdng itod, thi gan ddy da dtfdc tidu diong ph6 hiin hdn dtfdc gpi Id hdng xa xi m ^ , hay nhOIng thtfdng h i ^ todi trang xa xi pho bien. Nam 2019, thbi ttang xa xi loan cau dat mffc tang trffdng 4%-5% vd se gitt vihig nhip tdng ndy trong nam 2020, bat ehdp bdi cdnh bdt on kmh te loan can (Giang Ld, 2020).
Bao cao BrandZ hdng nam (2014- 2019) cua hang nghidn edU Millward Brown Optimor da xep hang top 10 thUdng hidu todi ttang xa xi ph6 bien nhat trdn thd^
gidi (Bdng 1), vdi cdc totfdng hipu, nhit Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel, Cartier.
Burberry, Coach, Prada, Fendi; Rolex, Micheal Kors, Dior, Gucci, Saint Laurent..
Nhihig ndm gan ddy, do nhu ciu phdt sirto ldn, thi trtfdng hang xa xi da md rdng tff chdu Au va chau My ttuyin tiiong sang cdc thi trffdng mdi ndi thudc chdu A, bao gom cdc nffdc. nhtf: Nhdt ' ThS., Trtfdng D^ii hpc Lao dgng - Xa hoi
74
BSn, Tmng Qufic, An Dp, H4n Qufic vk khu vyc Dfing Nam A... Nhin chung, hau nhit tat ca c4c thuong hieu xa xi qufic t^
hkng dSu deu mS rong kinh doanh d chSu A. Theo nghidn ctfu cua tic gii, sij tang tnrdng kinh ti cung vfii mtfc thu nh$p tang Ifin vk nhffng cdi thi?n trong diiu ki$n sfing d chSu A la nguyfin nhSn true tigp cho sif phit tri€n thi trrfctng hang xa xi 6 thi trudng nay.
Tai Vifit Nam, theo Cong ty Nghien ctfu thi tnlSng Statista, nam 2019, doanh thu hing thai n ^ n g x a x i S V i e t N a m c o n t h a p so vfii 5 nufic din dlu trdn thi trUcJng niy, do li: My, Nhit Ban, Trung Quoc, Y, Phip.
Cfin so vfii cic ntfdc trong khu vtfc ASEAN, nhtf. Thai Lan, Malaysia, Indonesia..., thi doanh thu trong Irnh vtfc niy cfla ViSt Nam mfii dat xSip xi 50% (Ifinh 1).
Bfin canh dfi, nghien ctfu ciia Cfing ty Nghifin ctfu thi trtffing Statista cung cho tha'y, tinh dfi'n nam 2019, trong sfi thi phin cic hang thfii trang xa xi 6 Vifit Nam, thi sdn pham ciia c i c thtfOng hieu do LVMH (Louis Vouitton, Fendi, Bulgari...) nam giu* chiem khoing 23,1% thi trtfdng, sau dfi de'n Kering (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Brioni...) chiem 10,9%, Ralph Lauren vi PVH (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) chifim 7% (Hinh 2).
TRIEN VONG NGANH THdl TRANG XA x i VfET NAM TRONG THdl GIAN TCn
Thtfc tfi cho thay, nhu ciu cua ngtfdi Vifit Nam dfii vdi cac mat hing xa xi dang din tang Ifin. Nam bat dtfdc xu htfdng niy, c i c thtfdng hifiu hang cao cap dinh gii Vifit Nam l i qufic gia cfi tiem ning, cfi nhu cau v i cd dang cip tfong nhflng nfin kinh te mdi ndi. Cac hang da khfing ngin ngai gia tang dlu ttf vao thi trtfdng Vifit Nam trong thdi gian qua, bdi rjft cfi the, trong ttfdng lai, bfin canh Trung Qufic, Viet Nam se tfd thinh thj nirdng
"ctfu canh" doi vdi hing xa xi toin cau.
Theo Barclays Capital, thi uudng Trung Qufic v i cic ntfdc chau A lan cin tieu thu gin 1/3 hang hda xa xi dtfdc bin ra tren the' gidi, vdi mtfc deu thu khoang 7 t^ USD/nim, chifi'm 70%-80% ting trtfdng ciia nginh cong nghifip nay ttfin toin can ttong thdi gian gin dSy. Difiu dfi ddng nghia vdi viec, cic nhi bin le hing xa x! cua chau Au dang cd xu htfdng phu thufic nhilu hdn v i o khich hing Trung lfic. Nhung thtfdng hi$u da ttfng "nhat
HiNH 1: DOANH THU TRONG LINH Vt/C THCjl TRAISG XA x i CUA VIET NAM VA MOT SO NtfdC t>6NG NAM A SO Vdl 5 Ntfdc DtfNG D A U THE Gidl NAM 2019
SS4 S76
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HiMH 2: THi PHAM CAC HAMO THdl TRAMG XA XI d Vi$T NAM TIMH DEM MAM 2019
3>rr J Chanel.
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Nguon' C6ng ty Mghien cau thi tri/dng Statista, 2019 nhda" tai chdu Au da dtfde h6i sinh boac ndng tdm khi md rdng thi trtfdng sang khu vtfc chau A, dac biet Id Trung Quoc. Theo dtf dodn tff Cdng ty Nghidn cffu tbi trtfdng Bain vd Altagamma, khdch hang Trung Qud'c vd khu vtfe chdu A lan can se chiS'm 50% Itfdng ngtfdi mua hdng xa xi cua thd'gidi vdo ndm 2025 (Anh Hoa, 2019).
Tuy nhidn, stf tang trtfdng cham chap ciia Trung Qudc trong thdi gian qua da trtfc tid'p dnh htfdng d^n nhieu hang thdi ttang xa xi. Do vgy, ngtfdi tidu dung Viet Nam chae chan se dtfdc htfdng ldi Iff sff do bd cua ede thffdng hidu hang hda vd dieh vu eao e^p thd'gidi vao tbi trffdng ttong nhffng nam tdi.
Ket qud khao sdt thi trffdng gan ddy eua cdc ddn vi nghidn effu qudc ti, nhff. Weallh-X, Knight Frank vd Nielsen cung eho tha'y, mffe ehi lieu danh cho thdi trang cua ngffdi Vigt Nam dang dffhg thff 3 ttong rd chi tieu, chi sau chi tidu danh cho thffc pham vd ti^n ti^it kiem. Sd"
Iffdng ngtfdi sieu giau cua ViSt Nam dang tdng trffdng 6 mffc dd nhanh nhd't tiie gidi ttong giai doan 2012-2017.
si li$u thd'ng kB tff World Ultta Wealtii Report ciia Wealti)-X nam 2018 eung cho tiid'y, giai doan 2012-2017, ViSt Nam diihg diff 3 tii^gidi ve tdc do ldng tiirdng ngffdi si6u gidu (cde ed nhdn cd tai sdn tten 30 tiitu USD) vd dat mffc tang trffdng 12,7%/ndm, chi x^p sau Bangladesh (17,3%) vd Trung Qudc (13,4%) (Anh Hoa, 2019).
Hdn nii^, nhffng nam gin ddy, tSng hffdng GDP cua Viet Nam dat 6%-7% va trd thdnh mot trong nhffng nen kinh te tang trffdng nbanb nhat lodn cau. Theo Boston Consulting Group (BCG), 16% ddn so' Viet Nam se trd nen gidu cd vdo nam 2030 so vdi ty le 5% nam 2018.
Theo dd, nganh tiidi ttang Vidt Nam tao ra khodng 3,5 ty
75
s ccra - TRAO D O I
HiMH 3: DOAMH THG THJ TRtfdNG THCJl TRAMG XA )d VlgT MAM GIAI E>O^M 2015-2019 VA DQt KIEM 2020-2021
rSgu6n: C o n g t y Mghifin c i f u thi trifdng Statista, '.
USD doanh thu moi nam va con sd' nay se tang gap doi trong thap ky tdi. Ngodi ra, Viet Nam cdn sd hiJU ddn s^
tt^ vd cd trtnh do hpc van cao 6 chdu A va ling ldp trung lffu ngdy edng tdng ldn. Ddy Id ba yen to edn thiet de thi trffdng hang hda xa xi phdt trien manh me. BCG nhan dinh khdi niem "ngffdi ti6u dilng giau ed" la cde ddi tffcftig
"cd sffc mua tdt vd san sdng ehi ti§u ti^p nhdn nhilu sdn phim, dich vu cao cap va xa xi" (Kha Nhan, 2019).
Theo Cdng ly Nghi6n cffti tiii tiirdng Statista (2019), thi trffdng thdi ttang xa xi dff ki6n se tang 16n 105 ty USD vdo ndm 2023. Tai Viet Nam, doanh tiiu tiii hffdng thdi ttang xa xi dtf kid'n ndm 2021 se dat 235 tiieu USD (Hinh 3). Hau bet cdc thffdng hidu qud'c l6'deu cd ke hoach md rdng kinb doanh tai Viet Nam, nhff: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna, Bulgari, Hermes...
M O T SO G O I Y D E PHAT TRIEN THI TRl;CK^JG THdl TRANG XA XI d VIET NAM
Thi titfdng hdng thdi ttang xa xi d Vi$t Nam so vdi the'gidi edn chid'm thi phin nbd, nhffng nhin vdo nhiJng tin hidu ddng mijftig eua tdc dd tang trtfdng kinh l^ dlu dan, stf gia ldng ve s6'Iffdng cua nhflhg ngffdi sieu gidu cQng vdi ddn sd^ tie ed trinh dp hoc vd'n eao ciia Viet Nam, c6 the thay dtfdc tri^n vpng cua thi trtfdng thdi ttang xa xi d Vi6t Nam ttong tbdi gian tdi.
Tuy nhidn, di do ltfdng, ddnh gid dtfdc thi trtfdng thdi trang xa xi 6 Vi6l Nam, can cd nhffng cudc khdo
sat, nghien cffu chuyen sau hdn nffa.
Tff dd, giiip cdc nhd d l u tff cd dffdc nhffng quy^t dinh phO hdp khi tiiam gia vao thi ttffdng nay. Cu thi, ede cudc nghidn cffu c i n tdp trung vao nhffng vd'n de sau:
Thtf nhd't, can cd nghidn cffu v l de do Iffdng v l vdn hda tidu diing hdng thiJi ttang xa xi d Viet Nam, nhff: dnh hffdng cua van boa A Ddng, dac tnftig van hda Viet Nam dnh hffdng d^n hdnh vi tieu ding hdng thdi trang xa xi... hay nhfing thdi quen ti6u diing hdng thdi trang xa xi, ve thdi gian, dia diem, hdnh vi mua hdng...
Thtf hai, ein ed nghien effu v l gid tri cam nbdn eda ngffdi tidu dung Viet Nam doi vdi mdt hdng thdi ttang xa xi, vdi nhihig gia tri cdm nh§n phd bie'n ddi vdi hang hda xa xi cua ngffdi tieu dOng ttdn thd'gidi, nhtf: gid tri ldi chinh, gid tri chffe ndng, gid tri ed nhdn, gid tri xa hOi, ngffdi tieu dOng Vidt Nam quan tdm, d l eao gid tri nao...
Thii ba, cin cd nghien cffu md td v l nhu elu, mong mud'n, sffe mua cOa ngtfdi tieu dilng Vidt Nam, tH dd ed the do ltfdng chinh xdc dtfdc eau thi trffdng d^i vdi mdt hdng nay.
ThtftU. cin nghidn cffu ve nhu ciu n$i dia hda hang thdi trang xa xi sao cho phfl hdp vdi vdn hda, vdc ddng, sffe mua cua ngffdi tidu dung Viet Nam.
Cud'i cung, can cd nghien cffu v l quan diem eiia ngffdi tieu dung Viet Nam ve hang thdi ttang xa xi chinh hang vd hang gid, hdng nhdi. Tff dd, ndng cao nhdn thffc eua ngffdi tieu dilng v l hdng chinh hang, eung cdp thdng tin de ngtfdi tidu diing cd t h i tiep caln dffdc hdng chinh hang qua cdc kdnh kbdc nhau, day Ifli tieu diing hdng gid, hang nhai.Q
J ' A i m i U THAM KHAO _ _ _ _
1. Millward Brown Optimor (2014-2019). Bdo cdo BrandZ cdc ndm, ttf 2014 di'n 2019 2. Anh Hoa (2019). Thi trudng cho gidi siiu gidu Viet. Imy cap Iff https:/^aodautu.vn/tili-truong- cho-gioi-sieu-giau-viet-dl02576.htinl
3. Giang Ld (2020). Khdch hdng dang tdi dinh vi thi trudng hdng xa xi, truy cdp tff https://
forbesvietaam.com.vn/tin-cap-nhat/khach-hang-dang-lai-dinh-vi-thi-truong-hang-xa-xi-9319.htiTil 4. Khd Nhan (2019). Thi trudng Viet Nam - Mo vdng cho cdc thuang hifu thdi trang xa xl todn cdu, tioiy cdp tff hltps://vielnambiz.vn/tiii-truong-viet-nam-mo-vang-cho-eac-thuong-hieu-tiioi- ttang-xa-xi-toan-cau-20I9120717093107.httn
5. Berthon Pierre, Leyland Pitt, Michael Parent va Jean-Paul Berthon (2009). Aestiietics and ephemeraUty: observing and preservmg the luxury brand, Califomia management review, 52(1), 45-66 6. Brun Alessandro va Ceciha Castelli (2013). The nature of luxury: a consumer perspective.
International joumal of retail & distribution management. 41(11/12), 823-847 7. Statista (2019). Luxury Goods Report 2019 - Luxury Fashion
