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International standards related to anthropometric methods

Dalam dokumen Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design (Halaman 47-52)

It is implicitly assumed that measurements from different surveys are taken using exactly the same method when the measurement name is identical. Unfortu-nately, this is not always true. Measurement items named identically but defined differently or named differently but defined identically cause confusion. To avoid such unnecessary confusion, textbooks and standards are used as references. The most frequently used reference is an anthropometry textbook, Martin’s textbook of anthropology (Martin and Knußmann, 1988), but this textbook does not focus on anthropometry for garment design. There are several international standards

related to anthropometry, ISO 7250 series, ISO 8559-1, ISO 15535, and ISO 20685 series. ISO 20685-1 and ISO 20685-2 were already introduced in Section 2.3.4.

ISO 7250-1, ISO 8559-1, and ISO 15535 are introduced in the succeeding text.

ISO/TR 7250-2:2010 is a data book of body dimensions measured according to ISO 7250-1. Standards, however, are not intended to be a manual for anthropom-etry. For details of measurement items and measurement procedures, please refer to the textbooks and manuals described inSection 2.7.

2.4.1 ISO 7250-1 and ISO 8599-1: Definitions of measurement items

ISO 7250-1:2017andISO 8559-1:2017describe measurement items for technological design and garment design, respectively. Both standards have been recently revised.

Sixty-two measurement items for technological design are described in ISO 7250-1.

Six measurement items were added in the 2017 revision. Many landmark names are based on anatomical terms. There are only 11 measurement items measured using a tape measure, and most are length, breadth, and depth measurements measured using an anthropometer or calipers.

Ninety-three measurement items for garment design, 26 landmarks and levels, three lines, and two planes are described in ISO 8559-1. Thirty-eight measurement items were added in the 2017 revision. ISO TC 133/WG 1 decided to use landmark names and terms familiar to the apparel field. Therefore landmark names are not the same with those in ISO 7250-1 even if the definitions are the same. Among the 93 surement items, 54 items are measured using a tape measure, and 18 items are mea-sured using an anthropometer. One item is meamea-sured using a scale and one item by an inclinometer. Eight items are calculated from manually measured measurements.

Table 2.3A compares 15 pairs of landmarks from ISO 7250-1 and ISO 8559-1 with the same definitions or locations that are close. Twelve of the 15 pairs are identical or practically identical. However, three pairs are not identical.

Table 2.3B compares 19 pairs of measurement items from ISO 7250-1 and ISO 8559-1 with the same or similar definitions. Twelve pairs are identical and three pairs are practically identical. However, four pairs are not identical.

2.4.2 ISO 15535 and how to eliminate irregular values

ISO 15535:2012 specifies the general requirements for establishing anthropometric databases, such as the number of subjects to be measured and a protocol for eliminat-ing irregular values from measured data.

In traditional methods, irregular values are inevitable due to mistakes. The effects of these irregular values on statistics such as the standard deviation, skewness, max-imum, and minimum can be very large. ISO 15535 establishes a protocol for elimi-nating these irregular values.

In this protocol, measured values smaller than or larger than the range of the mean3 standard deviations are reviewed individually. This way, very large or very

Table 2.3 Comparison of definitions of landmarks and measurement items in ISO 7250-1:2017 and ISO 8559-1:2017

ISO 8559-1 ISO 7250-1 Comparison

A. Landmarks

3.1.1 Shoulder point 5.2 Acromion Identical 3.1.2 Center point of

brow ridge

5.6 Glabella Identical

3.1.3 Tragion 5.20 Tragion Identical

3.1.4 Orbitale 5.13 Orbitale–

infraorbitale

Identical 3.1.5 Lowest point of

chin

5.9 Menton Identical

3.1.6 Back neck point 5.3 Cervicale Identical 3.1.12 Center chest point 5.10 Mesosternale Identical 3.1.15 Lowest rib point 5.8 Lowest point of rib

cage

Identical 3.1.22 Waist level Not defined as a level,

but the same level is used for defining the waist circumference

Identical

3.1.11 Bust point 5.18 Thelion Bust point is not identical with thelion, but bust point is used for females wearing bras

Identical for females wearing bras

3.1.16 Highest point of the hip bone

Not defined as a landmark, but the highest point of the hip bone is used for defining the level of waist circumference

Identical

Not defined as a landmark, but the same point is used for measuring stature

5.22 Vertex (top of head)

Identical

3.1.10 Elbow point 5.12 Olecranon Not identical: elbow point is defined with arm hanging freely downward, while olecranon is defined with the elbow flexed 90°

3.1.19 Wrist point 5.21 Ulnar stylion Not identical: wrist point is the most prominent point of the bulge of the head of ulna. Ulnar stylion is the most distal point on the ulnar styloid

Continued

Table 2.3 Continued

ISO 8559-1 ISO 7250-1 Comparison

3.1.26 Inside leg level 5.4 Crotch level Not identical: inside leg level is decided by visual inspection with subject standing feet apart.

Crotch level is decided by using an anthropometer

B. Measurement items

5.1.1 Stature 6.1.2 Stature (body height)

Identical 5.1.18 Back neck height

(sitting)

6.2.3 Cervicale height, sitting

Practically identical: feet are not supported in ISO 8559-1, but are supported in ISO 7250-1 5.2.1 Hip breadth 6.1.12 Hip breadth,

standing

Identical 5.2.5 Chest depth 6.1.9 Chest depth,

standing

Identical 5.2.6 Bust depth 6.2.15 Thorax depth Identical 5.3.1 Head girth 6.3.12 Head

circumference

Identical 5.3.2 Neck girth 6.4.9 Neck

circumference

Identical 5.3.4 Bust girth 6.4.10 Chest

circumference

Identical 5.3.10 Waist girth 6.4.11 Waist

circumference

Identical 5.3.20 Thigh girth 6.4.13 Thigh

circumference

Identical 5.3.24 Calf girth 6.4.14 Calf

circumference

Identical 5.5.4 Index finger length 6.3.4 Index finger

length

Identical

5.5.5 Foot length 6.3.7 Foot length Practically identical: longitudinal axis of the foot is not defined in ISO 8559-1

5.5.6 Foot width 6.3.8 Foot breadth Practically identical: longitudinal axis of the foot is not defined in ISO 8559-1

5.6.1 Body mass 6.1.1 Body mass (weight)

Identical

5.1.15 Inside leg height 6.1.7 Crotch height Not identical: inside leg height is the height of inside leg level, measured with the subject standing with feet shoulder width apart. Crotch height is the height of crotch level measured with the subject standing feet together

small irregular values (caused by, e.g., the wrong measurement unit) can be identified.

Most of the irregular values are, however, not extreme values. These irregular values can have effects on correlations rather than univariate statistics. To eliminate such irreg-ular values, draw a scattergram using two measurement items highly correlated with each other, and review outliers identified by visual inspection. If the outliers are due to mistakes in data input, correct the values. If the cause is unknown, delete the values.

In the example shown inFig. 2.11, 217 male subjects are plotted using body height (stature) and iliospinal height. It is easy to locate an outlier by visual inspection though

Table 2.3 Continued

ISO 8559-1 ISO 7250-1 Comparison

5.3.19 Wrist girth 6.4.12 Wrist circumference

Not identical: the tape measure passes the wrist point in ISO 8559-1, while the tape measure passes at the level of radial stylion and just distal to the ulnar stylion in ISO 7250-1 5.5.2 Hand length (wrist

crease)

6.3.1 Hand length (stylion)

Not identical: hand length is measured from the distal wrist crease in ISO 8559-1, while it is measured from the line connecting the radial stylion and ulnar stylion in ISO 7250-1 5.5.3 Palm length

perpendicular

6.3.2 Palm length Not identical: palm length is measured from the distal wrist crease in ISO 8559-1, while it is measured from the line connecting the radial stylion and ulnar stylion in ISO 7250-1

Fig. 2.11 Find outliers in a scattergram by visual inspection.

both measurements of the outlier are within the range of the mean3 standard devi-ations. Unfortunately, it is unknown which of the two measurements is incorrect only from this scattergram. In this situation, choose another measurement item highly cor-related with both iliospinal height and body height (e.g., acromial height). Draw a scattergram using the iliospinal height and acromial height and another scattergram using the body height and acromial height. The measurement item with the outlier in two scattergrams has the incorrect value.

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