THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS.

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Pradetia Novitri, 2013

THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS

THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN

IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS

A Research Paper

Submitted to fulfill one of the requirements to achieve Sarjana Sastra degree

Pradetya Novitri

0608404

ENGLISH LITERATURE DEPARTMENT

FACULTY OF LANGUAGE AND ARTS EDUCATION

INDONESIA UNIVERSITY OF EDUCATION

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The Representation of Beautiful

Women in Skin-Whitening

Cosmetics TV Commercials

Oleh Pradetia Novitri

Sebuah skripsi yang diajukan untuk memenuhi salah satu syarat memperoleh gelar Sarjana Sastra pada Fakultas Pendidikan Bahasa dan Seni

Desember 2013

Hak Cipta dilindungi undang-undang.

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PAGE OF APPROVAL

THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING TV COMMERCIALS

By:

PRADETYA NOVITRI

Std. Number: 0608404

Approved by:

First Supervisor,

Budi Hermawan, M.P.C.

NIP. 1973080720022121002

Second Supervisor,

Susi Septaviana, S.Pd., M.A.

NIP. 197609042009122002

Head of English Education Department Faculty of Languages and Arts Education

Indonesia University of Education

Prof. Dr. Didi Suherdi, M.Ed.

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS

ABSTRACT

The Representation of Beautiful Women in Skin-Whitening Cosmetics TV

Commercials

Realizing the true intention of the message the media convey becomes important since sometimes the message is hidden behind the text. Today advertisement of skin-whitening cosmetics has changed the way people consider about beautiful women. Therefore, this research was aimed at finding how beautiful women are represented in skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials. The research used descriptive analysis that is qualitative in nature. Employing visual grammar framework as proposed by Kress and van Leeuwen (2006) and the concept of second order of signification by Barthes (1957), the research analyzed pictures and narrations/dialogues contained in three skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials. The research found that beautiful women represented as confident, powerful, have good personalities, modern, women’s best friend and object of attraction.

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ABSTRAK

Representasi Perempuan Cantik dalam Iklan TV Kosmetik Pemutih Kulit

Memahami arti sebenarnya dari pesan yang terkandung dalam sebuah teks menjadi hal yang sangat penting karena terkadang makna yang dimaksud tersembunyi di balik teks literal. Saat ini, iklan-iklan tentang kosmetik pemutih kulit telah merubah pandangan orang mengenai yang seperti apa itu perempuan cantik. Maka dari itu, penelitian ini ditujukan untuk meneliti bagaimana perempuan cantik direpresentasikan dalam iklan TV kosmetik pemutih kulit. Penelitian ini menggunakan metode analisis deskriptif kualitatif. Teori yang digunakan dalam penelitian ini adalah visual grammar yang digagas oleh Kress dan van Leeuwen (2006) dan signifikasi tataran kedua yang digagas oleh Barthes (1957). Penelitian ini menganalisis gambar dan narasi/dialog yang ada di dalam 3 iklan TV kosmetik pemutih kulit. Hasil penelitian ini menunjukkan perempuan cantik terepresentasi sebagai perempuan yang percaya diri, kuat, mempunyai kepribadian yang baik, modern, sebagai sahabat bagi perempuan lain dan sebagai penarik perhatian.

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1.4.Significance of the Research... 4

1.5.The Scope of the Research... 4

CHAPTER II THEORETICAL FOUNDATION ... 10

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CHAPTER III RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ... 34

3.1. Research Questions ... 34

3.2. Research Design ... 34

3.3. Research Subject ... 35

3.4. Data Collection ... 41

3.5. Data Analysis ... 41

3.6. Data Presentation ... 42

CHAPTER IV FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION ... 45

4.1. Findings ... 45

4.1.1. The Representation of Beautiful Women in Skin-Whitening Cosmetics TV Commercials ... 45

4.2. Discussion ... 70

CHAPTER V CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION ... 73

5.1. Conclusion ... 73

5.2. Recommendation ... 74

REFERENCES ... 75

APPENDICES ... x

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LIST OF TABLES

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LIST OF APPENDICES

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Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia | repository.upi.edu | perpustakaan.upi.edu

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

This chapter includes the elaboration of the background in conducting this

research, statement of the research questions, aims of the research, significance

and the scope of the research, research methodology which contains data

collection and data analysis, clarification of key terms and organization of the

paper.

1.1 Background of the Research

One function of communication is instrumental communication which is

aimed to inform, guide, persuade, change attitude and idea, transform behavior or

initiate actions and to entertain. According to Gorden, (cited in Mulyana, 2008) in

this function of communication, audiences are made to believe that the

information given is true and worth knowing. One of the channels of

communication that can achieve the objectives of instrumental communication is

advertisements.

There are two media of advertisement. They are printed (advertisement in

magazines, posters and billboards) and electronic (advertisement in radio,

television and internet). In particular, since its emergence, television advertising

or TV commercial develops as the most effective advertising media because

almost every house has at least one television. In addition, TV advertising is a

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combines all three elements appealing to the senses—sight, sound and motion (Kotler, 2011).

Advertisement nowadays appears to be a powerful media in conveying

messages. Besides promoting products, advertisement also offers some ideologies.

For instance, skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials today are similar to each

other in portraying the image of beautiful women. Employing white, slim, tall and

straight long hair women as the endorsement may be understood as offering a

belief, thus ideology that beautiful women are women with such characteristics.

Furthermore, the image of beautiful women in advertisements is actually the

representation of neocolonialism, racism and capitalism since the endorsers in the

ads are carrying the concept of idealized beauty in their whiteness (Prabasmoro

2002, Rustandi 2007).

Javanese people back then believed that beautiful women were women

with brown skin and black curly hair. These characteristics of beautiful women

eventually became a myth. Barthes (1967) viewed myth as codes of meaning and

social values (arbitrary or connotative in fact) that are considered natural.

Nonetheless, nowadays the idealized beauty that producers planted in every

skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials causes transformation of the myth. People

are forced to accept the idea that slender figure, long straight hair and white skin

are the accepted representation of beautiful women. Thus, the representation of

beautiful women in skin-whitening cosmetics is an interesting phenomenon to

analyze. This is because Indonesia is a tropical country, therefore Indonesian

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commercials give Indonesian women an idea that they can also become as white

as the model’s skin.

Departing from the matter, this research is aimed to analyze three

skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials. Those are Olay Natural White All In One

Agnes Monica Version, Citra Spotless White UV Guru TK Version, and Pond’s

White Beauty New. This research attempts to reveal the representation of beautiful

women in the TV commercials.

1.2 Research Questions

The research examines the phenomenon of skin-whitening cosmetics TV

commercials. Specifically, this research is aimed to answer the following

questions:

1. How are beautiful women represented in skin-whitening cosmetics TV

commercials?

1.1What are the representations of beautiful women in skin-whitening

cosmetics TV commercials?

1.2How are the representations constructed?

1.3 Aims of the Research

The answers of the research questions are expected to fulfill the following

aims:

1. To discover the representation of beautiful women that is exposed in

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1.1To reveal the representations of beautiful women in skin-whitening

cosmetics TV commercials,

1.2To know how the representation is constructed.

1.4 Significance of the Research

In this globalization era, when all information is free to access,

audience/reader/listener is expected to be media literate so they can filter whether

particular information is appropriate or not. Thus, this research is expected to

enrich the attempt of making audience to be able to see beyond what is shown.

Audience needs to be educated so they are not taking what the media said for

granted.

Furthermore, this research is employing visual grammar proposed by

Kress and van Leeuwen (2006) as the theoretical framework. It is different from

other studies (for example Prabasmoro study, 2003) on representation of women

in advertisements where the analysis weren’t based on the visual grammar theory.

1.5 The Scope of the Research

The research is limited to only investigate how beautiful women are

represented in skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials. This research also

discusses the construction of the representation.

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1.6 Research Methodology

The research employs descriptive qualitative method to answer the

research questions. This research describes critically the phenomena in the form

of how beautiful women are represented. There are two different types of data,

text (verbal signs) and image (visual signs) data. Semiotics is used to analyze the

collected data. The analysis will be done using Roland Barthes’ theory orders of

signification (1957).

1.6.1 Data Collection

The advertisements to be analyzed in this research are downloaded from

the website www.jingle-iklan-tv.blogspot.com. Since the internet provides many

advertisements, the selection has been made to choose potential advertisements to

analyze. The advertisements are:

1. Olay Natural White All In One Agnes Monica Version

2. Citra Spotless White UV Guru TK Version

3. Pond’s White Beauty New

The data are in the form of text and image derived from verbal and visual

elements of TV commercials. The investigation focuses on analyzing narration

and tagline as the verbal signs, as well models (their physical appearances,

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1.6.2 Data Analysis

The collected data are then analyzed using semiotics theory. In specific,

Roland Barthes’ orders of signification (1957) are employed as the framework to

analyze the text data. Its ability to explain meaning at the second stage of

interpretation is considered adequate to achieve the objective of this research.

Whilst, image data will be analyzed using the theory of reading image as proposed

by Kress and van Leeuwen (2006).

The verbal data in the TV commercials (TVC) are taken from its narration

and tagline which are transcribed. The next step is to critically select the words,

phrases and sentences to be categorized into how beautiful women are represented

in skin-whitening TV commercials. Describing process is then done in order to

find the meaning of the signs. The last step is to interpret the finding by relating it

to the framework theory.

In treating the visual data, the first step is to identify the signs, categorized

them into how beautiful women are represented in skin-whitening TV

commercials. The next step then is to describe and critically interpret them based

on the framework theory employed.

In sum, the following steps have been taken in conducting the research:

1. Formulating the research questions,

2. Selecting and downloading the potential TV commercials from

www.jingle-iklan-tv.blogspot.com,

3. Doing library research to gather information about the framework theories

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4. Fragmenting the TVC into several scenes until they become a storyboard,

5. Collecting the text and image data by selecting the words, phrases,

sentences and scenes that potentially answer the research questions,

6. Analyzing the data using theories proposed by experts,

7. Categorizing the data that picture the representation of beautiful women in

skin-whitening TVC,

8. Concluding the findings.

1.7 Clarification of the Key Terms

1. Advertising

A non-personal communication of information usually paid for and usually

persuasive in nature about products, services or ideas by identified

sponsors through the various media (Bovee in Taflinger, 1996).

2. TV Commercial

An advertisement advertised in television as the media. It is considered to

be the most effective media to advertise because almost everybody have

ever watched television.

3. Representation

It is something which stands for or in place of something else.

Representation always involves ‘the construction of reality’. All texts are constructed representations rather than simply transparent ‘reflections’,

recordings, transcriptions or reproductions of a pre-existing reality

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4. Construction

The creating of something from ideas, opinions, and knowledge (Oxford

Advance Learner’s Dictionary, 2000).

5. Skin-whitening Cosmetics

Cosmetics made in order to whitened human’s skin. It can be in the form of moisturizer/cream, lotion or soap.

1.8 Organization of the Paper

The report of the research will be organized into five chapters as follows:

 Chapter I Introduction

This chapter contains Background of the Research, Research Questions,

Aims of the Research, Significance of the Research, The Scope of the

Research, Research Methodology which contains Data Collection and

Data Analysis, Clarification of the Key Terms, and Organization of the

Paper.

 Chapter II Theoretical Foundation

This second chapter consists of the theoretical framework as the ground to

analyze the phenomenon occurs. It contains the definition of Advertising,

Television Commercials, Previous Studies on Women and Media,

Representation, Construction, Semiotics Approach, Order of Signification

and the theory of Visual Grammar.

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It discusses the research design employs in the research. This chapter

contains the explanation of Research Questions, Research Design,

Research Subject, Data Collection, Data Analysis and Data Presentation.

 Chapter IV Finding and Discussion

The chapter contains findings for the research questions and the

interpretation of the finding. In this research, beautiful women are

represented as Confident, Powerful, Have Good Personalities, Modern,

Women’s Best Friend, and the Object of Attraction.

 Chapter V Conclusion and Suggestion

This chapter concludes the research. Moreover, it tries to give suggestions

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CHAPTER III

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

This chapter describes the methodology applied to conduct this research. It

contains the explanation of research questions, research design, research subject,

data collection, and data analysis also data presentation.

3.1 Research Questions

The research is geared towards answering these following research

questions:

1. How are beautiful women represented in skin-whitening cosmetics TV

commercials?

1.1What are the representations of beautiful women in skin-whitening

cosmetics TV commercials?

1.2How are the representations constructed?

3.2 Research Design

This research employs descriptive qualitative method to answer the

research questions. Descriptive qualitative method is chosen since the data are in

the form of image and text, not numbers. Meanwhile, the descriptive design is the

most appropriate design to use in this research since it describes the phenomena in

the form of how beautiful women are represented and how the representation is

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3.3 Research Subject

The TVCs are downloaded from the website

www.jingle-iklan-tv.blogspot.com. The subjects of the research are:

1. Olay Natural White All-in-One Agnes Monica Version

Olay is an American brand established in 1950s by a chemist, Graham

Wulff for his wife (available at http://www.olay.com/ accessed on February 8,

2012). Olay is one of the brands under Procter & Gamble (P&G) company. P&G

claims over 80 million women on five countries use Olay to their skin, also 8 out

of 10 dermatologists in World Congress of Dermatology recommend Olay for the

skin care. In Indonesia, Olay is a well-known beauty product and usually Olay

employs famous celebrities as their endorsement (often the celebrities act as their

product’s ambassador) in their TVCs (available at http://www.pg.com/ accessed

on February 8, 2012).

Olay Natural White All-in-One Agnes Monica version that is analyzed in

this research is a spokesperson type of advertisement (Russell et al., 1988). It

exposes Agnes Monica as the endorser to inform the audience about the product.

Olay is described as one cream that is able to take care of all skin problems.

Despite all the benefit, Olay is still affordable. There are 9 scenes that depict the

message. Of all scenes, scene #1, #2 and #7 are chosen to be analyzed in this

research. Since this TVC only consists of 9 scenes, there is not much scenes that

represent woman. The selected scenes are scenes that expose woman. Furthermore

those scenes represent the main idea of this TVC. The following are the selected

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Scene #1 Scene #2

Scene #7

2. Citra Spotless White UV Guru TK Version

Meanwhile, Citra is an Indonesia’s original product established in 1984.

Citra has two main missions, creating a complete skin care treatment through

their products and helping Indonesian women balancing their body and mind.

Citra’s consumer targets are Indonesian women who want to be modern by still

considering the social wisdoms in Indonesia. Citra claims that their products are

made from Indonesian heritage’s natural elements. Many Citra TVCs portray

Indonesian women’s beauty among Indonesian culture as the depiction of their

mission (available at http://www.unilever.co.id/ accessed on February 8, 2012).

Citra Spotless White UV Guru TK Version that is analyzed in this research

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS kindergarten teacher who asks her students to play Twister with her. When the

color wheel needle stops at brown color, one of her student points at her brownish

skin and saying “Coklat (brown).” The model feels embarrassed with her skin and

tries to cover her arm with her clothes. Then the other teacher suggests the model

to use Citra hand and body lotion. The model then depicts as having the lotion

applied to her skin. After applying the lotion, the model’s skin becomes brighter.

Afterwards, the model meets her student again who is now pointing her skin while

saying “Putih (white).” There are also two men who are amazedly looking at her.

From 26 scenes, 8 scenes are selected to be analyzed in this research. They are #2,

#13, #15, #16, #20, #21, #23 and #25 as can be seen below.

Scene #2 Scene #13

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Scene #20 Scene #21

Scene #23 Scene #25

Since this TVC tells a chronologic story, the selection has been made to

the scenes that represent the flow of the story. Moreover, these scenes represent

woman and the effect of her presence to the world.

3. Pond’s White Beauty New

Pond’s is an American brand established in 1846 by a scientist Theron T. Pond. It was first a medicine to cure scratches. Now Pond’s has become the fifth most profitable beauty treatment brand all over the world. The product has three

different categories, oil control, skin-whitening and anti aging products. Pond’s is

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS more wonderful than ever (available at http://www.unilever.co.id/ accessed on

April 10, 2012).

Pond’s White Beauty New is a slice of life type of advertisement (Russell et al., 1988). It portrays a young woman in her room. She is applying the cream to

her face. At first her face is dark with black spots on it. After applying the cream,

her skin gradually becomes brighter. In this TVC, the model is depicted as having

a super power. It can be seen from the action she made when she picks the

clothes. The clothes are flying in front of her and then she chooses the clothes she

wears for the day. Subsequently, she gets out of her house and looks at the sky.

The weather is cloudy. She uncovers the cloud so the sky is clear. Then she meets

several men on the street. She picks one of the men and brings him closer to her.

Her action of choosing and shifting the frames is similar to the movement when

operating a tablet gadget with touch screen. From 20 scenes, 8 scenes are selected.

They are scene #3, #5, #7, #9, #13, #15, #18 and #19.

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Scene #7 Scene #9

Scene #13 Scene #15

Scene #18 Scene #19

As well as Citra TVC, this TVC also tells a story, so the selected scenes

are the one that depict the story. The scenes are also representative in describing

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3.4 Data Collection

The research subjects are audio visual advertisements. Therefore, the data

are in the form of verbal text and image text. The TVCs contain visual and verbal

signs. The verbal signs serve as the text data, while the visual signs supply the

image data for this research. The TVCs were then fragmented into each scene.

The selection had been done to decide the particular scenes to analyze.

The data were collected from the narration/dialogue and tagline as the

verbal signs. Moreover its narrative and conceptual representations, gaze, frame

size, angle and compositional layout were analyzed as the visual signs.

3.5 Data Analysis

In analyzing the data, the data were categorized into how the beautiful

women are represented constructed in skin-whitening cosmetics TVCs. To

critically describe the visual data, visual grammar theory proposed by Kress and

van Leeuwen (2006) was employed. Meanwhile the transcribed verbal data were

analyzed using orders of signification framework as proposed by Barthes (1957).

At last, interpretation of the finding was done to conclude it.

Overall in conducting the research, the following steps had been taken:

1. Critically selecting the scenes to be analyzed,

2. Describing the visible signs in the scene and transcribing the verbal data,

3. Analyzing the visual data using the theory of visual grammar as proposed

by Kress and van Leeuwen (2006), whereas the verbal data is analyzed

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS 4. Categorizing the data into how beautiful women are represented in the

TVCs,

5. Drawing conclusion from the findings and suggestions for further study.

3.6 Data Presentation

The collected data are then presented such as following:

Picture 1

(Taken from Olay Natural White All In One Agnes Monica Version scene #1)

The represented participants in this scene are Agnes Monica, Pencerah jar,

Bintik hitam tube, Pelembab jar and Krim UV tube. This scene depicts a woman

that faces the selections of cosmetics in different shapes and effects. The vectors

emanate from Agnes’ gaze and smile to the camera. Her head is slightly turned

away from the picture’s horizontal plane. She puts her head on her arms.

She is wearing light blue t-shirt and silver bracelet. She applies natural

make-up with pink lipstick and black eyeliner to highlight her eyes. Her hair is

red-orange. Her white skin is salient among the grey atmosphere in the picture.

In front of her, there is a row of various cosmetic jars. The first one is a jar

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS one is a Bintik hitam tube. The lid color of the tube is light yellow and the body is

white. The third one is a jar with the label Pelembab. The lid color is silver, and

the body is white. The last one is a tube with the label of Krim UV. The lid color

is gold, and the body is white. All of the labels on the jars are in black, while the

labels outside the jars are in light blue. The human represented participant is

non-transactional reacter since she is looking at the interactive participants. The

presence of the gaze and smile from the human represented participant denotes a

demand of information (Kress and van Leeuwen, 2006). The human represented

participant then is demanding the interactive participants to choose various

cosmetics with different results or one cosmetic that covers all qualification.

This statement is affirmed with the verbal question, “Bisa ngga ya, satu

krim pencerah melakukan semua ini?”. The TVC wants the interactive

participants to critically select which product they will use in order to get

maximum effect. The head of the human represented participant is slightly turned

away creates the effect of seducing. The desaturated hue of the background is

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS presence of the mirror table is understood to accentuate the shiny white skin of the

human represented participant.

The model is wearing light blue t-shirt. Light blue is associated with

sincerity, loyalty and peaceful (Davis, 1987), typical characters of caring mothers

usually have. Her attire is trying to convey that the model that has motherliness

quality also has white skin with no black spots. Meanwhile T-shirt is the kind of

casual outfit people usually wear in their time off. The model is applying natural

make-up, soft pink lipstick and her eye lines are stressed with black eyeliner. Pink

denotes feminine qualities, while the black eyeliner strengthens her gaze to the

interactive participants. Her hairdo is also very simple, yet she colored her hair

red-orange. Red-orange is associated with power and ambition (Davis, 1987). Her

simple attire, natural make-up and her hair represent a modern woman who is still

keeping up her nature as a woman who will be a mother someday. Furthermore,

the absence of colored shades on the human represented participant’s cheek and

eye accentuates the whiteness of her skin.

The represented participants are put within a close shot, thus the

represented participants are made of having a close personal distance with the

interactive participants. In addition, the represented participants are depicted in a

frontal angle which means involvement (Kress and van Leeuwen, 2006). By doing

this, the TVC suggests that the represented participants are the women’s best

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CHAPTER V

CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

This chapter sums up all details of the findings and discussions briefly

into some key points followed by some recommendations for further discussion

relating to the representation that is shown in advertisement in terms of the

grammar of the image.

1.1 Conclusions

Considering the findings that the beautiful women in these researched

TVC have white skin, confident and feel powerful about it, strengthens the image

of the idealized beauty the world has in their minds, that beautiful means having

white skin.

With the massive growth of technology, the world is also changing

rapidly. Advertisers should keep track of all the changes in order to maintain the

persuasive elements of their advertisements. Women nowadays are multi-tasking

women. While taking care of their household tasks, they also have jobs outside

the houses.

Finally, since the media exposure on people can give big influence to

what people think and do, the view of this idealized beauty should considerably

be changed. The advertisers should be in neutral position. But this idealized image

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THE REPRESENTATION OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN SKIN-WHITENING COSMETICS TV COMMERCIALS more selective of what they watch, read and listen. Media literacy is important to

filter the wave of information in this global era.

1.2 Recommendations

The research only answers the representation of beautiful women in

skin-whitening cosmetics TV commercials in terms of picture composition and second

order of signification. Future research in this topic should elaborate more about

the modality of the picture—the degree of truth and falsehood of the picture.

Since it is relatively new, picture analysis stores great potential and ideas. That is

why visual grammar should be introduced to students in order to improve their

analytical skills. In the meantime, the research about media exposure in people is

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