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The project entitled "Influence of knitted structure on the physical properties (abrasion and burst strength) of knitted fabrics" was partially completed by the following students in February 2023 and submitted to the following respected members of the examination board of the Faculty of Engineering. prerequisites for the Bachelor of Textile Engineering degree and was certified as satisfactory. Farhad Hossain, Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Daffodil International University, for encouraging us to complete this project successfully with his extensive knowledge and keen interest in the field of improving the physical properties of knitwear. Mominur Rahman Sir, Assistant Professor and Head (In-Charge) of Textile Engineering Department, Daffodil International University, for his continuous help in preparing this project report.

We thank our fellow students from Daffodil International University who participated in the discussions while completing the course assignments. Farhad Hossain, lecturer at Daffodil International University, who helped us immensely in completing our industrial training report. He also brought the substances to the university laboratory and practically measured the GSM of the substances.

In the university laboratory, we measured the wear resistance and burst strength of the fabrics together. The findings showed that the physical properties of the knitted fabric change due to changes in the structure of the knitted fabric.

Introduction

  • Introduction
  • Objectives
  • Outcomes
  • Limitations

Maintaining the physical properties of knitted fabrics, such as abrasion resistance and burst strength, is one of the most important challenges. For the production of garments, the knitted fabrics must be as durable as possible. The main objective of this work is to determine the effect of fabric structures on the physical properties of knitted fabrics.

Melange fabrics show the highest weight loss, cotton less weight loss than cotton, CVC less weight loss than cotton. In this research, we were able to obtain only twelve test specimens of cotton, CVC, melange and spandex fibers.

Literature Review

  • Knitting Technology
  • Single Jersey Fabric
    • Some derivatives of Single Jersey Fabric
    • Derivatives of Fleece
  • Double Jersey Fabric
    • Derivatives of Double Jersey Fabric
  • Importance of yarn for Knitting
  • Knit Fabric GSM
  • Stitch Length
  • WPI (Wales Per Inch)
  • CPI (Course Per Inch)
  • Abrasion Resistant Fabric
  • Bursting Strength of Knit Fabric

Although the face and back of a double jersey look the same as a single jersey, they are virtually identical. Each fiber maintains a constant distance from the yarn axis by rotating uniformly around one of the concentric cylinders. The threads will have the same amount of twist per unit length for each thread.

Any yarn should not be allowed to be used in knitting to create fabric if any of the aforementioned yarn qualities are lacking. Although it is necessary to maintain the parameter of the yarn for excellent knitting, it cannot give it to you. A stitch length is the length of yarn that includes the needle loop and each side half of the slip loop.

As a result, it can be stated that "the breaking strength of a fabric is defined as the pressure required to break the surface of the fabric". The burst strength of the fabric is significantly influenced by the type of yarn and material used, the number and construction of the fabric.

Methodology

Materials

  • Yarns
  • Fabrics
    • Construction of Fabrics

Machine Description

  • Knitting Machines
    • Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine
    • Fleece Machine
    • Rib Machine
    • Interlock Machine

Test Methods and Testing Machines

  • Yarn Test
  • Fabric weight (GSM)
  • Stitch Length, WPI & CPI
  • Abrasion
  • Ball Bursting

The yarn quality is tested on the fabric inspection machine and the fabric quality is marked. Method: First the fabric is made from yarn and then the fabric goes through the dyeing and finishing process. After completion, yarn defects are checked in the light source of the fabric inspection machine.

Mass per unit length and per unit area of ​​fabric can be determined in several ways. This International Standard specifies methods for determining mass per unit length and mass per unit area. Method - When the length of the piece or sample can be conditioned in a standard test environment, the length and weight of the fabric are calculated, or the length, width and weight of the fabric are determined and calculated.

Stitch length, WPI & CPI are determined using counting glass, scale and needle. Method of determining WPI: The counting glass is placed over the fabric and then the number of vertical lines in the counting glass is determined. The vertical lines are Wales and in 1 inch the lines are determined by counting glass.

Evaluation: Yarn breakage is determined visually and weight loss percentage is determined using a digital balance. For knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, plastic bags, tissue paper and medicinal items, the burst test is crucial. Method: There are two versions of the software "Testwise for Truburst" available, but we only used the Testwise Lite version, which is included by default.

We started by placing the sample on the jaw and continued once the ball was placed over the fabric.

Figure 6 (3.6): Fabric Inspection Machine
Figure 6 (3.6): Fabric Inspection Machine

Result and Discussion

Test Results

  • Yarn Test
  • GSM
  • SL, WPI & CPI
  • Abrasion: No yarn breakage and moderate pilling was found visually to all
  • Ball Bursting

Discussion Based on Test Results

  • GSM
  • WPI & CPI
  • Abrasion
  • Ball Bursting

Flat back rib and 3-ply fleece has the lowest WPI which is 24 and 2-ply fleece has the highest WPI which is 38. On the other hand, Flat back rib has the highest CPI which is 105 and 3-ply fleece has the lowest CPI which is 28. So, from the above discussion we can say that Fleece fabric contains very low CPI and Double Jersey derivatives (Plain Interlock, Flat Back Rib & Thermal) have very high CPI.

3-ply diagonal fleece is the best in terms of abrasion resistance because it shows no weight loss rate. So from the above discussion we can say that ribbed fabric and fleece fabric have good wear-resistant properties, with the exception of Pointelrib and 3-ply fleece. Pointel Rib contained a very high content of hairy fibers and 3-Thread Fleece was composed of blended yarns.

All other fabrics have a decent abrasion resistant property, just except Single Jersey fabric as it contained a lot of hair fibers. Regular interlock, thermal, 2-ply fleece, Double Pique, Single Lacoste and 3-ply diagonal fleece have good burst strength.

Conclusion

In this study, we studied the influence of knitwear with different yarns on the physical properties of knitwear. Through investigation, it was found that the gray melange and hairy cotton fabric has very poor wear quality. Knitted structures do not have a major effect on the physical properties, as long as the quality of the yarn remains the same.

Rib fabric and fleece fabric have good wear-resistant properties, with the exception of Pointel rib and 3-thread fleece. Fleece fabric contains a very low CPI and Double Jersey derivatives (Plain Interlock, Flat Back Rib & Thermal) have a very high CPI. Rib Fabric has the most priority in the case of Ball Bursting, as all the highest and lowest values ​​are of Rib Fabric.

The 1×1 Rib has the highest bursting power and the Flat Back Rib has the lowest bursting power. On the other hand, the 9×4 Rib has the most stretch and the Flat Back Rib has the least stretch. Effects of knit structure on dimensional and physical properties of winter outerwear knits.

34; Relationship between burst strength and ultraviolet protection of 100% cotton knit fabrics", The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2014.

Gambar

Table 1 (3.1): Sample Fabric Table
Figure 1 (3.1): Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine  Brand: PAILUNG
Figure 2 (3.2): Fleece Machine
Figure 3 (3.3): Rib Machine  Brand: PAILUNG
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Referensi

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