Xuat khau det may
tru'dc nhu'ng thach thuTc cua hoi nhap sau han
DO THj THANH TAM'
Viet Nam n^m trong top 5 ntfdc xuS't k h i u d^t may Idn nhSt th§' gidri, san p h i m da co mat tai 180 quo'c gia va vung lanh thd. Tuy nhidn, nganh ddt may noi chung, cac doanh nghidp ddt may noi ridng, hidn dang phai dd'i mat v&i nhi^u thach thtfc tru'dc nguTSng cu'a hdi nhap sSu htfn.
KIM NGACIi XUAT KHAU DET MAY CAO NHAT CA NtJdC
Theo Bd Cdng Thffdng, nam 2014, del may la mdt trong hai ngdnh ed kim ngach xud't khd'u Idn nhd't ca nffdc, dat 24,5 ty USD, tdng trdn 19%. Ridng mat hang may mae dat tren 21 ty USD, tang 17% so vdi nam 2013, cdn lai la hdng xd sdi ddt dat tidn 3 t^ USD. Xud't khd'u ddt may sang eac thi trffdng ldn, nhff: My, EU, Nhdt Ban vdn tdng trtfdng kha td't.
Cu thd, xuat khau sang thi trtfdng My dat 9,8 ty USD, tang 12,6% so vdi ndm 2013. Thi trffdng EU du^g thff 2 vdi kim ngach dat 3,4 ty USD, tang 17%. Cac mat hdng xuat khau, nhtf: do jacket, quan nam nff, do hdng suite nam nff... chid'm ty trpng eao trong cd cd'u mat hang may mae xua't kha'u sang EU. Nhat Ban la thi trtfdng xua'l khau ldn thtf 3 cua Viet Nam vdi kim ngach dat 2,7 ly USD, tang 9%, ihi phan tang 6,61 %. Dang chu y Id, thi trtfdng Han Qud'c tang tdi 27% trong ndm 2014, vdi kim ngach dai 2,4 ty USD.
Trong do, tang irtfdng manh nhd't Id cae nhdm hang: ao khodc, do jacket, hang suite, quin nam nff (Hinh).
Ndi vd thdnh tich cua xud't kha'u ddt may trong nam 2014 khdng the khdng nhac dd'n hieu qua tff dam phdn edc hidp djnh thtfdng mai ttf do (FTA), bdi nhffng hidp dinh nay deu lidn quan trtfc tid'p dd'n cdc thi trffdng chinh, nhtf: Hidp dinh Dd'i tae chid'n Iffdc xuydn Thai Binh Dffdng
• ThS Iru'dnq D :• hoc Kir,, le - Kv Ihuat Coi
(TPP); FTA vdi EU, Han Qudc; Lien mmh Hai quan (Nga - Belarus - Kazakhstan).
Theo dng Ld Tid'n Trffdng, Phd Chu tich Hiep hdi Ddt may Viet Nam, tuy cdc FTA nay chtfa cd hidu ltfc, nhtfng sffc but Iai ra't ldn vdi dd'i tdc khi bp quye't dinh ehuyen ddn hdng tff nhffng qud'c gia khdng tham gia hiep dinh sang Viet Nam. Day la mdt trong nhffng thuan ldi va Id tien de dd del may Viet Nam tie'p tuc phdt trien manh me trong nam 2015 (Phan Thu, 2015).
Cde hidp dmh nay se giup Vidl Nam md rdng thi trffdng xud't khau, gdp phan thuc da'y xua't khau sang cac thi trtfdng chu chd't, nhtf: Hoa Ky, EU, Nhdt Ban, Hdn Qud'c... Ddc bidt, dd'i vdi mat hang xua't khau chu Itfe nhtf del may, dtf kie'n khi eae hidp dinh nay dffdc ky kdt se md ra cd hpi eho hdng del may xua't khau sang nhieu thi trffdng ldn nhd hffdng thue'()%.
Bdn eanh dd, cac hidp dinb nay se gdp phin ldng them viec ldm cho nen kinh td'. Theo Bd Lao dpng, Thffdng binh vd Xd hdi, cff 1 ty USD hdng del may Vidt Nam xua't khau se tao thdm khoang 250.000 vide Idm.
HIMH: KIM MG^CH XUAT KHAO HANG DfT MAY SANG CAC TH! TRffdMG CHiNH NAM 2014
Dan vj: Tj USD
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NGHIEN CCfa - TRAO DOI
SONG, VAN CON NHIEU KHO KHAN Mdt Id, thie'u nguydn - phu lieu vdn la rdo can ldn dd'i vdi nganh det may. Theo Tap doan Ddt may Viet Nam (Vinatex), nganh ddt may mdi chi ddp tfng dtfdc 2% nhu elu bdng va 1/8 nhu cau vai, san xud't dtfdc 140.000 td'n sdi mdi nam, nhffng chffa phdi la sdi chat Itfdng eao. Mac du cd nhidu nd ltfc, nhtfng nam 2013, ngdnh del may chi ndi dia hda dtfdc khoang 48% ngudn nguydn - phu lidu.
Dd'n ndm 2014, eon sdtien da lang ldn khoang_50%. . ^ . __ ^^
Mac diJ vdy, phan khue vai eho may xud't khau vdn rd't thu ve lai rd't thap.
thieu. Nguyen nhdn do cdng nghiep ddt sdi phat trien Bdn Id, nguon nhan Itfc edn thid'u ve manh, nhtfng khau nhudm Iai yd'u. Doanh nghidp trong sd Itfdng va yd'u ve^cha't Iffdng. T^i Hdi ntfdc khdng dii tiem life ve vdn deed the phdt trien cdng thao "Ddo tao ngudn nhan Iffe gan vdi nghidp nhudm, nha't la diu tif he thdng xff ly nffdc tiiai. sff phdt trien nganh del may khu vffc chl tham gia vdo khdu san xuat san pham eudi eung vdi Itfdng gia tri gia tdng tiid'p nha't trong chuoi gid tri. Mpt phin ldn cdc nha san xua't sdn phim ddt may cua Vidl Nam dang thffc hien cac hdp ddng uy thdc xua't khau CMT (gia cdng thuan tuy) cho cdc dai ly mua hang va cd sd tiiu mua. Chinh vi the', tuy san pham det may cua Viet Nam xua't di nhieu ndi, Viet Nam cd ten trong top cdc nffdc xuat khiu ddt may ldn nhd't thd' gidi, nhtfng gid tii
«
Nganh ddt may mdi chi dap dng dtfdc 2% nhu cau b6n^va 1/8 nhu c^u vai, san xuSt dtfdc 140.000 tan sdi mdi nam, nhiAig chtfa phai 1^ sdi ch^t ht($ng cao. • • Hidn nay, ngoai trtf
Vinatex va mpt sd it doanh nghidp ed du ltfc de dau ttf vao san xuat sdi, det va vai, phan ldn van dang chd chinii sach chung eua Nha ntfdc cho phat trien edng nghidp hd trd, trong dd ed ddt may, ma khdu thid't ye'u nha't la xay dtfng ede khu
cdng nghidp det nhudm cd he thdng xff ly nffdc thai.
Kim ngaeh xuat khd'u Idn, nhiftig nguyen lieu Iai chu ye'u nhdp khd'u ndn ldi nhudn thu vd khdng ddng kd. Theo Hidp hdi Ddt may Viet Nam, chi phi nhdp khiu nguyen lieu dau vdo chid'm ly Id kha cao, trung binh khoang 60% tong gid tri xud't khau. Chinh vi chi phi nhdp khau diu vao cao, ndn nganh det may khd cd dieu kien phdt trid'n.
pMa Nam giai doan 2015-2020, tam nbin 2030" didn ra ngdy 18/12/2014, dng Nguyen Van Tuan, Phd Tong thff ky Hidp hdi Del may Viet Nam cho bie't, long nhdn Itfc cua nganh ddt may bidn khoang 2,5 tridu ngtfdi, nhiftig lao ddng cdng nghidp eh! chid'm khoang 15%. Nghiem trpng hdn, tren ca ehudi cung thig, trff nhffng khdu lien quan dd'n san xua't may vd sdi, thi nhan ltfc cua nganh thie'u loan dien, gan nhtf khdng ed ddn vi nao ddo tao life Iffdng nay.
Ngoai thie'u hut lao ddng, chd't Iffdng lao ddng cung chffa ddp ffng nhu cau.
Vide dao tao nhdn Iffc cho nganh may eua eae trung tam va eac tiffdng chtfa Hai Id, ly Id ndi dia hda edn thap. TPP quy dinh, ty ddp tfng dtfdc nhu clu thffc td' effa nhidu Id phin tram ndi khd'i, tffc gia tri ndi khd'i tao ndn san doanh nghidp hidn nay. Smh vidn sau khi pham xud't kh^u phdi dat trdn 55%, trong khi ddt may "" '~^^ ''" ^••'"'" ' — - - -^ '•^' -'•"' Viet Nam chi ed gia cdng, ty le npi dia hda, chie'm rat
nhd, chl khoang 20%.
Ba Id, ndng ltfc canh tranh san pha'm edn thap. Thtfc id cho tha'y, Viet Nam khdng the san xud't du Itfdng sdi ttf nhidn va il kinh nghidm tiong vide san xud't eae loai vai del thoi, ndn ehu yeu phat tnen cac loai vai ddt kim lam Iff sdi tdng hdp va pha tidn. Hdn nffa, dieu kidn ky thudt, cdng nghd cdn han ehe', nen da sd san phd'm det may xua't khau cua Vidt Nam vln thudc nhdm trung binh, hdm Iffdng cdng nghe tha'p, ehat Iffdng cdn khidm td'n.
Trong nganh ddt may loan cau, thtfdng tbi khau thie't ke' kieu ddng dtfde lam d cdc trung lam thdi trang thd' gidi lai Paris (Phap), London (Anb), New York (My)..., vai san xua'l tai Trung Qud'c, phu lieu khac lam tai An Dd. Khau san xua^t san pha'm cud'i cung thtfe hien d cdc ntfdc cd chi phi nhan edng tha'p, nhtf: Vidt Nam, Tmng Qud'c, Campuchia... Sau eung, san pham dtfa trd
ra trtfdng nd'u dffde myen dung, thi phai dao tao Iai mdi sff dung dffdc.
Ndm Id, ban ehd vd may mdc, thie't bi.
Phin ldn may mdc, cdng nghd cho nganh del may Viet Nam dffdc nhdp khau tff Trung Qud'c vd didu nay eho thd'y trinh dd san xua't nganh del may eua Viet Nara mdi d giai doan cd ban, do edng nghe tff Trung Qud'e dffdc xem la cdn tha'p.
Tai Hdi thao ve thi tiifdng ddt may Viet Nam didn ra ngdy 01/10/2014, dng Olaf Schmidt, Phd Chu tich Det vd Cdng nghd det eua Messe Frankfurld ddn chtfng, theo Hidp hdi Che tao May mdc va Thiet bi eua Dtfc, nhffng ndm qua, Trung Qudc la nffde eung cap cdng nghd del may ldn nha't cho Viet Nam vd ngudn cung tff Trung Qud'c lidn tuc tang nhanh Iai thi trtfdng ldn do eac cdng ty thtfdng mai danh tieng trong vdi ndm trd Iai day. Ndu nhtf nam ddm nhan ban ra. Trong chudi gid tri loan cau eua hang 2006, kim ngach nhap khau mdy mdc del ddt may, khau ed Idi nhuan eao nhd't la thie't ke mdu, may ti:f Trung Qud'e dffng sau Nhdt Ban, cung ed'p nguydn phu lidu va thtfdng mai. Vidt Nam Han Qudc, dat khoang 20 tneu Euro, thi
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ndm 2013 con sd'nay da len tdi 106 tridu Euro, tang hdn 5 lln va Trung Qud'e ti-d thanh thi trffdng dffng dau cung cap edng nghd ddt may cho Viet Nam.
Trong khi dd, nhffng nffdc cd tiinh dp cao ve san xua't thid't bi ddt may, nhtf:
Dffc, Y, Nhdt Ban, Han Qud'e... lai xud't khau sang Viet Nam khdng dang ke.
Vi du nhtf Dtfe, nam 2013, ntfde nay cbi xuat khau khoang hdn 2 trieu Euro cdng nghe ddt may vdo Viet Nam.
MOT s d DE XUAT
Mde du cdn nhidu khd khan, song nam 2015 dtfdc ddnh gia la nam thudn ldi cho boat dpng xud't kbau cua ngdnh del may.Vdi sffc hut tff cdc FTA sap k^ kd't, Hidp hdi Ddt may Viet Nam dtf kid'n, nganh ddt may cd ke hoach xua't kha'u tff 28 dd'n 28,5 ty USD, tdng 15,9% trong ndm 2015. De dat dtfdc mue tidu nay, theo chffng tdi, cin thtfe hidn ed hidu qua mpt sdgidi phdp sau:
Thff nhdt, chu ddng ngudn nguyin - phu lieu. Nhin thay ed hdi, nhffng nam bat, khai thdc dffdc de d^y manh xud't khau la khdng dd dd'i vdi eae doanh nghiep det may Viet Nam. Tff nay cho dd'n khi ede hidp dinh FTA, TPP dffdc ky ket va ed hidu life, vdn cdn thdi gian eho doanh nghidp tiong nffde tie'p tuc md rdng nang Itfe may, dau ttf vao nguydn - phu lieu, lien ket giffa edc khau san xuat sdi, vai va may de hoan thien chudi cung iftig. Ddt may Viet Nam cin chu y va ffU lidn ehuyen tff gia cdng vdi ty tipng nhdp kha'u nguydn lidu cao sang hinh thtfc san xud't tff chu nguydn lieu (FOB) va san xua't trpn gdi kem thie't ke' (ODM) de dap lihg ydu cau ngffdi mua va tao gia tii gia tdng cao hdn.
Thff hai, ndng ty le ndi dia hda. Vd vd'n de nang cao ty id ndi dia hda, nhidu chuydn gia kinh td dang chd cd hdi tang trffdng ben vffng vd manh me cua nganh
ddt may trong tffdng lai nhd tan dung dtfdc nhu^g tfu dai ve thud' vd kim ngaeh xua'l khau tff TPP. Nd'u ddm phan thdnh cdng, TPP se cd hidu Iffc vdd nam 2015, khi dd, xuat khau del may sff dung nguyen phu lieu trong ntfdc se dtfdc htfdng thud' sud't 0% dd'i vdi thi trtfdng eae ntfdc thanh vien TPP, trong do Idn nha't Id My, thay vi time'suat 17%-35% (tuy chung loai) nhtf hidn nay. Ddy la mot trong nhffng ly do cdc nhd diu ttf ntfdc ngoai de'n tim cd hdi lidn ke't dau ttf cac nha may ddt, nhudm, san xua^t nguyen phu lieu tai Vidt Nam thdi gian tdi, ma ntfdc ta ein tdn dung.
Thff ba, ndng cao gid tri gia ldng cho hdng del may xudt khdu. Trong itfdng lai, khi nhu clu cua khach hang khal khe, san pham eua cdc dd'i thu canh tranh cai tid'n hdn vd chd't Itfdng, thi lo ngai san pham del may Vidt Nam vat va trong vide tim chd dffng vtfng tren th;
trtfdng Id hoan loan ed ed sd. Bdi vdy, mud'n htfdng dd'n edc san phim gid tri cao, ddt may Viet Nam ddi hdi phai tham gia nhieu hdn vao qua trinh mua nguydn Ueu dau vao vd thid't kd' san pham. Dac bidt, ein cd dinh htfdng phdt trie'n nganh cho phii hdp.
Thff tu, ndng cao chd't luang nhdn lUc cho ngdnh del may. Doanh nghidp ein edi md hdn trong vide sff dung ngudn nhdn ltfc, trdnh phu thudc vao nban ltfc ed san do cdc trtfdng dao tao. Ngoai ra, doanh nghidp ndn eung tham gia vdi cdc trtfdng trong dao tao va ehu dpng ddo tao nhan Iffc cho chinh minh...
Thff ndm, doanh nghiep cdn ddu tu mdy mdc thiit bi. CO cdng nghi tien lien. Men dgi Dac bidt, ein ehu trpng dau tff may in lua. Bdi, hidn nay, nhu cau sff dung eae loai mdy nay se ngdy cang tdng tai Vidl Nam do tid't kidm dffdc nhan cdng, giam chi phi dau vao. Diu tff thie't bi ndy cung se giup doanh nghidp ed Ihdm dieu kidn ddn dau eae ldi the' tff edc hiep dinh thffdng mai ma Viet Nam sdp ky kd't tiong thdi gian ldi. Theo do, doanh nghidp can tfch cife tham gia vao cac hdi chd, tridn Iam ve thie't bi, mdy mde hidn dai, lidn tie'n phue vu cho ngdnh ddt may. Dien hinh nhff Trien ldm qud'c Id' lln thff 14 ve may mde, thie't bi, nguydn phu lidu ngdnh edng nghidp ddt vd may - VTG 2014 da didn ra lai TP. Hd Chi Minh vao ngay 29/10/2014, vdi quy md 300 gian hdng cua gan 200 ddn vi tff 10 qud'e gia trdn thd'gidi. Day chinh Id cd hdi td't cho edc doanh nghidp Viet Nam tim kid'm cdc dd'i tac, dau tff ddi mdi cdng nghd va nang cao ndng iffc san xud't.Q
TAI LIEU THAM KHAO
1. Bd Cdng Thtfdng (2014). Quyi't dinh sd3218/QD-BCT, ngdy 11/4/2014 phi duyet Quy hogch Phdt triin ngdnh cdng nghiip del may Viet Nam din ndm 2020, tdm nhin din ndm 2030
2. Bui HUM Dffc (2014). Del may Viel Nam: Lam gi de giam phu tiiude nguydn - phu lidu nhap khau tff Trung Qudc, Tgp chi Kinh li vd Dff bdo, sd 20/2014
3. Phan Thu (2015). Xud't khdu dit may tii'n chdc, truy cap iff hitp://www.baohaiquan.vn/pages/
xuat-khau-det-may-tien-chae.aspx
4. Tap dodn Ddt may VietNam-Vinatex (2014). Det may VietNam: Con dudng td't ye'u cho su phdt triin, truy cap tff http://www.vinatex.com/Portal/Deiail.aspx?Organization=vinatex&MenuI D=72&ContentID=11772
