MOT S 6 VAN Di yi PHAT TRI^N THJ TRI/ONG NOI DJA 061 V6l CAC DOANH NGHI$P MAY VI£T NAM
D a n g T h i K i m T h o a *
Trong xu the hdi nhgp kinh te todn cdu, bdt chdp nhieu khd khan tha thdch, Viet Nam dang Id mdt trong nhUng nUdc phdt huy dUdc the mgnh tiim ndng vd y chi tU cUdng cua ddn loc Nhieu sdn phdm, ngdnh hdng dd vd dang tUng bUdc chii'm llnh thi trUdng qud'c ti', trong dd det may ludn Id mdt trong nhQng nhdm ngdnh ddn ddu ve kim nggch xudt khdu cua cd nUdc. Tuy nhien, vdi thi trUdng ndi dia thi hdu nhU bi bd ngo vd cd phdn it dUdc quan tdm, mdc dil nhu cdu tieu dung ve mac cua hdn 86 trieu ddn ngdy mgt tdng cao. Hgu qud Id sdn phdm may mac cua Viet Nam bi lep ve, bi cdc nhdn hiiu nUdc ngodi ldm khuynh ddo vd eo nguy cdthua tgi sdn nhd. Bdi vii't ndy phdn tich vdgdiy mgt so'vdn di phdt trien thi trUdng ndi dia cua cdc doanh nghiip may Viet Nam.
Ifi My, EU vfl Nhfit Ban, chilm 80% td'ng kim nggch xufl't k h i u . Nguydn nhfin chinh khien xufl't k h i u det may n a m nay cao nhfi't trong 5 nfim qua, dd Ifl cac ddn hflng xufi't k h i u vflo cflc thi trUdng t r u y i n thd'ng deu tflng nhU: My tflng 14%, chau Au tflng 41%, Nhfit Ban tfing 52%. Ngofii ra, gia xufl't k h a u tflng cung ddng gdp trdn 12% vflo toe dp tfing trUdng kim ngach ndi trdn. Dang lUu y Ifl mpt so' thi trudng xufi't k h i u det may mdi nd'i nhQ Han Qudc, Dfli Loan, Canada cung gdp p h i n Iflm tflng kim ngach xufi't k h i u cua ca nganh.
Kim ngach xu^t kh^u det may qua cdc nflm 1. N h C n g c o n s o t r a i ngifpic
Nam 2011 vQa qua Ifl mQa gat bdi t h u cua ngflnh ddt may Viet Nam. Theo Bp Cdng thQdng, ddt may tid'p tuc Ifl ngflnh xufl't k h i u m a n h nhfl't, dat 15,6 ty USD, tfing 38% so vdi n a m 2010, cao nhfi't trong 5 nam qua. Vdi kd't qua dd, n g a n h tie'p tuc giQ vi tri so' 1 trong hogt dpng xufi't k h a u ciia ca nQdc.
Diem noi b a t v l hoat dpng ngoai thUdng cua nganh det may n a m 2011, dd Ifl da sufi't sidu 6,5 ty USD.
Thi trUdng chinh xufl't k h i u ddt may vfln
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 IKNXK(trUSD)
Ngudn: Hiep hdi Ddt may Viet N a m 'Dang Thi Kim Thoa, Thac sy kinh te, Dai hoc Kinh te quo'c dfln.
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Bdn canh nhQng eon sd' xufl't k h a u gay fl'n tQdng, thi p h i n may mae tren thi trQdng npi dia lgi rfl't a m dam, thfim ehi edn khdng c6 so lidu tong ke't. ThUc td' do nhieu ly do khac nhau, trong nhQng n a m g i n dfiy san p h i m may mac Trung Qud'c tQ cfi'p thfi'p dd'n trung binh trfin ngflp thi trQdng Vidt Nam tQ thanh thi de'n ndng thdn, tQ m i i n nui dd'n hai dao, di vflo tQng ngo ngach cflc vung xa xoi heo lanh, dau d a u eung tim thfi'y cac logi flo q u l n Trung Qud'e bay bfln la liet tren cac sap hflng, cQa hidu, via he vdi du loai p h i m cfi'p, da dang ve mflu ma, phong phu ve chung loai, hdp thdi t r a n g trong bo'n mua, gifl ca lgi re ba't ngd, dung vdi tfim ly ngUdi tieu dung, nhfi't Ifl d cac vung ndng thdn.
Trong khi do, san phflm may mac cua cflc doanh nghidp npi dia dupe cfic chuyen gia trong ngflnh tdng kd't gpn trong mfi'y dac diem sau: phuc vu dai tra vdi mQc gifl tQ re de'n trung binh, san p h i m thQdng thiet ke' gan gid'ng n h a u , khong cd dQpc hinh anh nhfl thid't kd' rieng bidt trdn tQng san pham... Cac n h a n hieu nude ngoai g i n nhU dang Ifi'n ludt d p h a n doan cao cfi'p bdi thUc t l khd CO thQdng hieu Viet nflo dp dUpc vdi cac thUdng hidu Hong Kdng hay ehfiu Au nhu Bossini, Giordano, Mango... cdn d phfin khuc thfi'p, h a n g may mac Viet Nam cung dang "nhQ ddn" vdi h a n g Trung Quo'c.
2. Cd h o i v a t i e m nflng c u a h a n g m a y m a c t a i t h i trxidng n o i d i a
Mac du ed ve lep ve' so vdi hflng nude ngofli vfl thi trUdng xufi't k h a u nhUng khdng phai tgi thi trUdng npi dia khdng cd cd hpi cho hflng Vidt Nam. A n h hudng tieu cUc cua khung hoang k i n h t l the gidi tac dpng true tid'p vfl gfiy khdng it khd k h a n dd'i vdi eac thi trudng xufi't k h i u nhU My, EU, Nhfit Ban vi t h i cflng khflng dinh thi trUdng npi dia Ifi hflu phQdng vQng chflc cua ngfinh may.
ThUc td' da chQng m i n h trong tinh hinh xufl't khau gap n h i e u khd k h a n n h u hien nay, mot sd' doanh nghidp may da n h a n h chdng tie'p cfin thi trUdng ndi dia vfi k h a n g dinh dupc
uy tin, thUdng hidu cua minh vdi ngUdi tieu dung trong nUdc nhQ Vidt Tid'n, May 10, An Phudc, Nhfl Be... trong khi dd h l u h i t cac doanh nghidp co vd'n d i u tU trUc tid'p nUdc ngofli thi khdng thd co k h a nflng nfly do phu thupc hofln toan vflo xufl't k h i u theo ddn dflt hflng ciia cdng ty me.
Ben canh dd, dUdi sQ lanh dao sfing sud^t ciia Dang va Nhfl nude, mfi'y nam qua Viet Nam vfln tQng budc vUdt qua song gid, nen kinh te vfln tflng trUdng tren 6%. Su phat tridn cua n i n kinh td' kdo theo nhu eau tidu dung v l mflc ciia ngUdi dfin cung ngfiy mot tfing Idn, tuy khdng dong deu giQa cflc tang ldp xa hpi nhUng ehinh nhQng dilu do lgi tao ndn sU da dgng trong phan khuc thi trUdng, dong nghia vdi vide cac doanh nghidp may Vidt Nam cd cd hpi da dang hda dd'i tUdng phuc vu tQ cfi'p trung binh dd'n cfl'p cac. Ddng hflnh eung nhieu san phfim kinh td' khac, san pham may mac cung cd cd hpi Idn trong chQdng trinh cupc van dpng
"NgUdi Viet Nam Uu tiin diing hdng Viet Nam" do Nha nQdc khdi xQdng. ChUdng trinh da va dang nhfln dUpc sU ung hp Idn cua tofin dan; tam ly tin dung hflng ndi dia dUde dinh hinh ro net, tgo cd hpi rfl't thufln ldi cho doanh nghidp Viet Nam noi chung vfl doanh nghidp may ndi ridng md rpng thi phan.
Khdng chi vgy, quyet dinh phd duydt quy hoach phfit trien ngflnh cdng nghidp ddt may Vidt Nam dd'n nflm 2015, dinh hQdng d i n n a m 2020 cua Bd Cdng ThUdng ngay 19/11/2008 la mdt dinh hudng chid'n lUpc vfl t i m nhin cho ngflnh det may ndi chung vfl cu t h i cho may npi dia, trong do cd quan d i i m phflt trien Ifi "phdt triin tdi da thi trudng ndi dia" vfi muc tidu tdng qufit Ifl
"thoa mdn ngdy cdng cao nhu cdu tieu ddng trong nUdc, tgo nhiiu viec ldm cho xd hgi", vdi ty Id npi dia hoa la 50% vao nam 2010, tflng Idn 60% vao n a m 2015 vfl 70% vao nflm 2020.
Mpt yd'u to' t h u a n Idi hdn cho ngflnh may
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mac Viet Nam Ifl nguon nlian lUc doi dflo vdi g i n 80% Ifl lao dpng nong nghidp. Vidt Nam lai la mdt nUdc c6 khi hfiu nhidt ddi gid mua, thidn nhien Uu tlfii cho p h a t t r i l n nguydn, phu lieu cho ngflnh may. Con ngUdi Vi^t Nam vo'n thong minh, c;"in cu, nhay bdn.
ChUdng trinh xay dUng nong thdn mdi vdi 19 imu- tieu dang dUpc Dang vfl Nhfl nUdc dac bidt quan L.-'im. Ben canh dn, ngfinh ndng nghiep vfi phflt trion ndng thdn dang tQng budc chuydn dich cd cfi'u cfiy trong vfit nudi theo hudng cdng nghidp vfl liicii dgi, k6o theo sU chuyen djch cd cfl'u lao dpng trong ndng nghiep. Dfiy cung Ifl cd hdi tdt d l ngfinh may mac tuyen dung dUdc nguon n h a n lUe doi dflo vdi mQc tien cdng vQa phai, nhfi't la khi doanh nghiep dQdc xfiy dQng theo quy hoach p h a n bd' v l ndng thdn. NgUdi lao ddng ehuyen n g b l may theo phUdng cham "ly ndng bfi't Iv hUdng" se yen tfim Iflm vide vfl cd'ng hien het minh eho doanh nghidp.
Nhu vfly, ve ban cha't, thi trUdng npi dia khdng ddn gian chi la mot p h a n khuc thi trudng. Vdi cai nhin tofln didn, nd Ifi hfiu phQdng, Ifl diem t u a cho ngfinh may vUdn r a the gidi. Sau mot thdi gian dfli bi bd ngd, dd'n nay thi trUdng npi dia da d i n khflng dinh vai tro hflu phUdng vQng chflc ciia minh. Bdi mudn eanh t r a n h dUdc tren thUPng trudng qud'e te thi trUdc het phai cgnh t r a n h dUpc chinh tren "sfin nhfi".
3. K h d k h a n , t h a c h thiJfc
Tuy nhien, de p h a t trid'n thi trUdng ndi dia xQng t i m , cac doanh nghidp may mflc se gap khdng it khd khfin, thach thQc. NhQng nam trQdc dfiy, h a u bet cflc chie'n lUdc phfit trien^eua nganh may d i u dUpc khuyd'n khieh vfl ho trd d l lam hflng xufi't khfi'u. Dilu nfly da tac ddng m g n h dd'n t i m nhin vfl dinh hudng cua cac doanh nghidp, hp chi chu trpng den mat hflng xufi't k h a u , t h a m chi chi Ifim gia cdng theo ddn dgt hfing vl dUdc hd trd mpi m a t bdi cac chi'nh sach Uu dai. Do vay n h i i u doanh nghiep md mflm va be tfic O QUAN Lf KINH Tg
khi mudn budc chan vfio thi trUdng ndi dia, Them vflo dd, thi trUdng npi dia hien dang hi eac n h a n hidu may mfic nUdc ngofli tQ thfi'p (len cao lam cho k h u y n h dao vfl canh tranh khoe li§t edn eae thUdng hidu may mac npi dia cdn qua nghdo nfln, it di, cd t h i ddm trdn d i u ngdn tay.
Quy hoach bo" tri xay dUng cac xUdng may vfl cd sd vfit chfi't thid't bi cho ngflnh theo vQng m i i n cdn n h i i u bfi't cfip, tfip trung chu yeu d eae thflnh phd Idn trong khi dd vung nong thdn rdng Idn chi la nhQng co sd nho, Id. Thu nhfip cua ngudi lao ddng thfi'p, mpi ehe dp sinh boat vfl quyen liji d i u chUa thQc sU dUdc q u a n tam dung mQc, d i l u nfly c6 a n h hudng khdng nhd d i n tfim ly cdng nhfin.
Do vfly, ngudn nhfin luc d ndng thon tuy doi dflo song hp cung khdng mfln mfl Iflm vdi n g h i may. Hien tQdng di c h u y i n , bd vide thudng xay r a nhfi't Ifl sau cac dip nghi dfli n h u le, Td't.
Dpi ngu thid't k l thdi t r a n g n h i i u nhQng khdng m a n h . H l u het cflc nhfl thiet ke th6i t r a n g hien nay deu thid'u kid'n thQc efln ban vi quy t r i n h dfio tao khdng bfii ban. Rfi't n h i i u ngudi cd nfing khie'u nhUng de tim dupe nhfl thidt ke' chuydn nghidp, hdi du eac dieu kien: vQa a m tudng quy trinh cdng nghd san xufl't, vQa nflm bflt dUpc nhu cau, thi hieu thi trudng khi thie't ke san pham thi qua Ifl hid'm. Day Ifl nguyen nhan chinh dfln de'n vide nhieu doanh nghiep vfin chQa tgo dQdc thd' m a n h cho san pham rieng cua minh nhQ mong mud'n.
Ngofli r a nhQng khd khfln ve vd'n, v l cong nghe, v l sQ lidn doanh, lidn kd't hd trd Ifin n h a u giQa cae doanh nghidp, ve sQ lidn kd't 4 nhfl gom nhfl doanh nghidp, nhfl nude, nha khoa hpc vfl nhfl ndng vfin cdn nhidu vfi'n dd c i n dUdc bfln tdi de thflo gd.
Nguyen nhfin chinh cua nhQng khd khfln t r e n Ifl do k h a nfing tQ chu d i u vfio ciia cac doanh nghiep may Vidt N a m cdn hgn chd', p h i n Idn phai n h a p nguyen lieu tQ nUdc
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ngoai nen cung hi r a n g budc bdi nhQng dieu kidn v l d i u ra. Ben eanh dd, do nang lUc thid't ke ye'u ndn kho c6 t h e xfiy dUng thUdng hieu ridng cho san p h i m eua minh. Hien rfi't it doanh nghidp ed k h a n a n g bfln san p h i m bflng thUdng hidu ciia minh mfl chu yd'u sQ dung thUdng hieu cua dd'i tflc hofic khach hflng nUdc ngofii. Ngofli ra, vi khoang cflch thu nhfip giQa ndng thdn vfi thflnh thi cdn kha xa ndn mang lUdi san xufl't vfl tidu thu c6 xu hudng tflp t r u n g tgi nhQng nPi ddng dan cQ vfi co mQc t h u nhfip eao khid'n cho mot phan thi trUdng npi dia rdng Idn la vung nong thon bi lang quen.
4. M p t so* hifcfng g i a i p h a p phflt trie'n t h i t r i i 6 n g n o i d i a
Phai thflng thfln nhin nhfin rflng trong sud't thdi gian dfii cac doanh nghiep ngflnh may da bd ngd thi trudng trong nUdc. Su kho khan trong xufi't k h i u bupc eflc doanh nghiep phai cd sU nhin nhfln nghiem tue hdn ve vai trd cua thi trudng npi dia. The nhUng lam the' nfio de cfic doanh nghidp phat trien, ehie'm Iinh thi trudng thi khdng ddn gian, c i n phai cd tam nhin vfl chien lupc Ifiu dai, cd sU nghidn cQu ky lUdng v l thi hieu, tfip quan va nhu c i u tieu dung ciia ngUdi Viet Nam.
De phat trien, md rdng vfl chiem linh thi trUdng may mac ndi dia, ngofli cac giai phap chung da dUpc B5 Cdng thUdng phd duyet trong quy hoach p h a t t r i l n ngflnh det may Vidt Nam, cac doanh nghiep may tuy thude vflo dieu kidn, thd' vfi lUc cua minh de cd nhQng hudng di ridng.
Tha nhd't, c i n xae dinh muc tieu vfl xay dung chien lUdc p h a t trien t r u n g va dfli hgn cua doanh nghiep. Mud'n Iflm dupc d i l u dd can xuc tie'n vide nghidn cQu, tie'p can thi trudng ndi dia mpt each khoa hpc, bai ban trdn cd sd dd dinh h i n h cho cac logi mflu ma, chung logi san p h a m . D a n h gia lai nfing lUc toan didn ciia doanh nghiep tQ ed sd vfit chfi't ky thuat, t r i n h do cong nghd, ngudn n h a n
lUc, trinh dp quan ly de cd ke hoach dilu chinh, d i u tU cho hdp Iy. Chu trpng d i n cdng nghd mdi, tidn tien, dflo tao ngudn nhfin lUc c6 chfi't lUpng, tQ can bd quan ly de'n cong nhan, dae biet Ifi dpi ngu thie't ke san p h i m .
ThQ hai, xfiy dUng vfi phat trien hd thdng mang ludi tieu thu san p h i m . Day Ifl giai phap quan trpng de cflc doanh nghiep may quang hfi, gidi thieu san p h i m cua minh de'n tay ngUdi tidu dung. Mdt so' doanh nghidp da thflnh cdng trong vfl'n d l nfly, trong do phai ke dd'n Vinatex m a r t vdi 55 sieu thi vfi hdn hai chuc cQa hflng thdi trang, san pham da cd mflt d 22 tinh, thflnh pho'. Td'ng cdng ty may Viet Tid'n vdi g i n 600 dai ly, 17 cQa hang Idn vfl c6 mat d 48 trung tam thUdng mgi. San pham eua edng ty may 10 co mat d tfl't ca cac kdnh phfin phd'i hien dai, ngofli r a cdn CO 150 cQa hflng dgi ly ban vfl gidi thidu san pham, da vfl dang thUc hien he thd'ng phfin phd'i dUa hflng v l ndng thon vfi md hinh chuoi sidu thi ban le d khflp cflc tmh phia bflc.
Tha ba, khdng ngQng eai tid'n mflu ma, da dgng hda chiing loai, nfing cao chfi't iQpng va ha gia thflnh san pham. Day la giai phflp dac biet q u a n trpng tao dupe Idng tin vfl thUdng hidu san p h a m dd'i vdi ngudi tidu dung, cung Ifl chia khda thfinh cdng de chiem Iinh lai t h i trudng npi dia.
De Iflm dupe d i l u nay cfic doanh nghidp c i n cd dpi ngu thid't kd' san p h a m du m a n h , lao ddng dUdc dao tgo bfli ban, Iflnh n g b l , cdng nghd tidn tid'n, nghidn cQu t i l t giam chi phi td'i da v l dien, nQdc, than, nguyen vfit lieu.
Tha tu, xay dung vfl phat trien thUdng hidu. ThQdng hidu Ifl dfi'u fi'n uy tin cua doanh nghidp, Ifl n h a n hidu dpc quyin cua san p h i m . Viec xay dung thQdng hieu khdng phai de dang. Tuy nhien, dd budc vflo thUdng trudng cgnh t r a n h vdi cac san phfim ngoai cung loai thi xay dQng dupc thUdng hidu Ifl mpt thfinh edng Idn mfl bfl't cQ doanh
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nghiep nao eung phai quan tfim dd'n.
ThUdng hieu gfln l i i n vdi ehfl't lUpng vfl mfiu mfi dupc thi trudng chfi'p nhfln se Ifi chia khoa thfinh edng de doanh nghidp tdn tgi vfl phflt trion ben vQng.
Tha ndm, chu dong ngudn nguydn phu lieu cho san xufi't. Hien tai, tren dUdi 90%
nguyen phu heu cho san xufi't ngflnh may mac la nhflp ngoai, sU phu thudc nfiy khdng t r a n h khdi nhQng rui ro. Do vfly, d l chii dpng nguon nguyen phu Hdu, eflc doanh nghiep can nflng dpng p h a t huy lpi the cua dfi't nudc nflm trong vQng khi hfiu nhiet ddi gid mua, da't dai mflu md, thien nhidn Qu dai eho p h a t tridn cay cdng nghiep. Cac vQng Tay Nguydn, t r u n g du mien nui, vung bai bdi ven sdng Hdng. sdng Thfii Binh, sdng Day... la d i l u kidn td't de c6 quy hoach cu the phfit t r i l n cfiy bdng, lanh, trdng dfiu nudi tfim. Mpt so' doanh nghidp da vfl dang Ifim dupc dieu nay, dien hinh n h u Vinatex dfi phdi hdp vdi cfic bd, ngflnh vfi 13 tinh t h a m gia quy hoach trdng bdng giai doan 2010 - 2015 vdi didn tich 40 nganh ha, trong dd tfip t r u n g chii ye'u d cae tinh Binh Thufin, Ninh Thufin, Gia Lai, P h u Ydn, Dfic Lflc, vQa chii dpng dUpc ngudn nguyen lidu cho minh mfl cdn gdp p h i n chuyen dich cd cfl'u cay trong, tao vide Iflm vfi t h u n h a p d'n dinh cho ndng dan, phflt trien kinh t l x a hdi.
Ngofii r a cflc giai p h a p ve ngudn vd'n dau tu, bao ve mdi trUdng, cac chinh saeh v l an sinh xfl hpi, khuyd'n tfli tQy thupc vflo nflng lUc eua tQng doanh nghidp, p h a t huy td'i da ldi the cua minh de xay dung vfl p h a t trid'n doanh nghidp ben vQng du sQc canh t r a n h chid'm linh thi trudng ndi dia.
5. T h a y c h o Icfi k e t
Phflt trien thi trudng may mfic ndi dia thUc su la mpt ehid'n lUdc dai hdi dd'i vdi cac doanh nghiep may Vidt N a m . Doanh nghiep chi thUc sU chiem linh dUdc thi trudng nay
mdt khi phfit t r i l n vfi Hen k i t dUdc ehudi cac yeu to'; ThUdng hidu - Nguyen vfit Hdu - Thie't k l - San xufi't - P h a n phd'i san p h i m . Cd hdi n h i i u , khd khfin thach thQc cung Idn.
S Q thflnh cdng bUdc d i u cua cac doanh nghidp tidn phong Ifi nhQng bfii hpc quy gia.
Cac doanh nghidp may Vidt Nam nhfi't dinh se tQng bQdc k h a n g dinh dUpc vi the' ciia minh, chiem llnh dUdc thi trUdng npi dia, dap Qng dQdc nguyen vpng ciia tofin dfin
"Ngadi Viet Nam tU hdo diing hdng may mac Viet Nam".
TAI L I E U T H A M K H A O
Quyd't dinh sl: 42/2008/QD-BCT ngfly 19/11/2008 phd duyet quy hoach phat triln ngflnh Cong nghiep Ddt May Viet Nam den nflm 2015, dinh hudng den nflm 2020 http.//www.vssc.com.vn/News/2010/12/3/1532 93.aspx. Det may vdi muc tieu 20 ty USD nflm 2015
http://vneconomy.vn/2009041108453215P0Cl 0/det-may-quay-lai-san-nha.htm. Det may quay lai san nhfl.
http://www.massogroup.com/cms/vi/kien- thuc/thuong-hieu-truyen-thong-tiep-tbi/5703- chi-phi-xay-dng-thng-hiu-cho-th-trng-ni-a- qua-ln.html. Chi phi xfly dung thUdng hieu cho thi trudng n6i dia qua Idn.
http ://ven. vn/thi-truong- noi- dia-bau•phuong- vung-chac•cua-nganh-det-
may_t77cl2nl5980tn.aspx. Thi trUdng noi dia - Hflu phUdng vflng chQc cua ngflnh d§t may
http://hanoimoi.com.vn/newsdetail/Kinh- te/303878/can-mot-chien-luoc-bai-ban.htm.
Cin mot chie'n lUdc bfli ban http://hanoimoi.com.vn/newsdetail/Kinh- te/534961/det-may-vn-%C4%91ang-bam-sau- vao-thi-truong-noi-dia.htm, Ddt may Vi&t Nam; dang "bflm sfiu" vao thi trudng noi dja
E 3 QUAN LY KINH T I So 47 (5+6/2012)
