Nguyen DiSu Linh Tap chi KHOA HQC & CONG NGHE 175(15): 4 9 - 5 3
C A S I N H T R O N G V A N H O A A M T H l T C C U A N G l T O I T H A I T R A N G 6 X A S O N A , H U Y E N V A N C H A N , T I N H Y E N B A I
Nguyen Dieu Linh Trudng Dgi hpc Khoa lioc - DM Thdi Nguyen
TOMTAT
Am thuc la yeu t l dOc dao gop phan lam nen ban sic van hoa toe ngu'di, Noi den van hoa am thuc cua dfing bao Thai khong the khong nhic tdi ca sinh. Ngudi Thai Tring che bien ca sinh thanh nhilu m6n an lg va dgc dao dflng de ddng len than linh va cung t l t l tiSn vao nhung djp le trong nam; de tiep dai khach qu^, khach ducmg xa.. Cac mon an tir ca sinh la bieu tu'ong cho su no du, hanh phiic va may min nen chiing gop phin lam nen net van hoa am thuc dac trung ciia ngudi Thai Tring d Yen Bai noi rieng va ngudi Thai vimg Tay B3c noi chung.
Til khoa: Nguai Thdi trdng. Cd sinh. vdn hoa dm thuc. dm thuc hdng ngdy, d&i song tdm linh
M O D A U
Xa Son A, huyen Van Chan, tinh Yen Bai cd 10 thfin ban, 1141 hg, vdi 4869 nhan khau (sd lieu nam 2014), gdm 9 dan tgc eung sinh song, trong do dan tgc Thai ehiem 5 5 % , tap trung tai 5 thfin: Ban Cde, Ban Vieng, Co Cgi 1, Co Cgi 2, Co Cgi 3. N g u d i Thai Trang nai day coi ca sinh la ngudn nguyen lieu truyen thong trong van hda i m thuc dan tpc. Vdi each thiic che bien linh hogt va da dang, ca sinh lam nen rat nhilu mdn ngon n h u Pa pinh top (ca nudng lip). Pa gidng xd (ca treo gae bep). Pa mogc (ea mope). Pa chen (ca ran).. .Mdi mdn ea vua cd huong vi rieng, vira an ehiia nhflng gia tri va y nghTa khac nhau, nhung deu the hien net dac trung trong am thuc eiia ngudi Thai, N Q I DUNG
C a sinh - s a n v a t doc d a o tir thien nhien Trong ddi sdng ciia ngudi Thai, cung voi hai nhgt, viee danh b i t ca d sfing, sufii cflng dupe tiln hanh t h u d n g xuyen. "Theo iruyin thuyit cua ngu&i Thdi tic khi sinh ra loai ngu&i &
trdi ddt dd co "ba tram ba micai giong cd &
du&i nu&c" di co thi tiin hdnh bdt dem vi ldm thuc dn dicgc" [3, 131-132]. Vdi dgc d i l m c u tru d binh dja t h i p eiing tap quan canh tac lam rufing nude, ngudi Thai T r i n g d Yen Bai sd hfl'u mgt ddi song i m thuc vfi eiing phong phii, ma trong do ea sinh la mfit
' Tel: 0978190882. Email- dieulinlMln@gmad com
san vgt dia phuong tao nen nhiJng mdn an dgc s i c . "Cd sinh dugc ngu&i Thdi & Vdn Chdn coi Id mon dgc sdn ddng lu hao, b&i logi cd ndy chi sdng duy nhdt nai day. Cd sinh ua sdng a nai nu&c xiit, minh thon dai, ddu nho, vdy trdng, lan lan nhu hoa bgc, hai bin lu&n dnh xanh. Con ndo to nhdt cung chi bdng bdn ngon tay, thil chae, v/ nggi dam, tham, khdng hi cd vi lanh, xucmg it lgi rdt mem" [2], Vfi miia sinh san, loai ca nay thudng nguge v l ngufin de sinh san bao toim ndi gidng.
De che bifin duge cae mdn ca sinh ngon, viec lya chon nguyen lieu la v o cung quan trgng.
Ca sinh dugc chgn thudng la nhftng eon to b i n g 3 , 4 ngdn tay, Ca phai tiroi, cd miiu bgc.
De Igo nen eae huang vj rieng cho tirng mfin ca, ngu'di Thai T r i n g noi day sir dyng rit nhilu logi gia vi dac trung cua mii rirng Tay B i c nhu: rau th6i {phjdc nam) chgn lay phin la non, hat sen {indc khin) chpn nhu'ng hat m i y , den, klifing bj infie, rau mui tau {hom pen nam) ehgn la gia de tang mui thom.
Ngoai ra, eae gia vi thdng thudng eung dugc sir dyng nhu gftng (khinh), xa (hoin cha), hirnli la {hom bud). Trong eac nguyen lieu niiy, hgt sen va rau thdi la nhflng nguyen lieu quan trgng nhat tao nen huong vi dac trung ciia mdn an mil cae gia vi khac khfing t h i thay thi, C a sinh t r o n g a m t h y c h a n g ngay Mflt trong nhfl'ng yeu tfi tao nen net dae trung cua van hda tpc ngudi, ehinh la dja vyc cu trii.
49
Nguyen Dieu Linh Tap chi KHOA HQC & CONG NGHE 175(15): 49-S3 Doi vdi cpng ddng eac dan tOe thieu so mien
niii phia Bic, do dilu kien quan cu tft vung ddi mil thap trai diii den dja hlnh mii cao nen khu vuc niiy cd sy da dgng vii phong phii trong van hda ndi ehung va am thyc ndi rieng.
Neu ngudi Xa an theo lua, ngudi Hmdng an theo suang mu thi noi nao gan ngufin nude lai la noi cu tru cua ngudi Thai. Day eung ehinh la mfit trong nhflng ly do khien ca trd thanh nguyen liSu phd bien trong co eau bfla an cua dan tpc nay.
Ngudi Thai Tring d xa Son A, huyen Van Chin, tinh Yen Bai van edn luu giir dupe nhieu net dgc dao trong viec che bien ca ndi ehung va ea sinh ndi rieng thanh cac mon an trong nhung dip sinh boat edng ddng, cflng nhu trong sinh hogt hiing ngay. Tyc ngu Thai cd cau; "Pay kin pa, vua kin lau, tau non sua hdm pha" (Di an ea, ve udng rugu, ngu dem dap chan bdng) la the hien su coi trgng mdn cii trong ddi am thyc.
Cach che bien ca sinh ciia ngudi Thai Trang mang nhieu dgc trung trong am thuc cua ngudi Tay Bac nhu say, nu'dng, udp chua...
Ca cd the nau vdi la ngai, nudng xien que tre tren bep eiii hay nau canh ehua. Gifl'a nui rung Tay Bac, ca mang tinh 3m dupe lam chin bang lua, than va khdi mang tinh duong tao nen su hoa quyen gifl'a thien nhien va con ngudi, the hien sy sang tao ciia dan ban dia trong thdi ky con ngudi edn phy thugc nhieu vao tu nhien. Ngudi Thai Trang thudng tiep dai khach bang cac mdn ca, bdi hg nghT sy cau ki trong each che bien chinh Iii tiim long ma hg mufin gdi den nhung ngirdi khach. Va hon het la chii nha mudn dem nhung gi ngon nhat, dgc diio vii rieng biet nhat trong van hoa am thye ciia dan tdc mirih den vdi mgi ngudi.
Cho nen, d mgt chu'ng mye nao dd cd the ndi ca sinh gdp phin tao nen ban sac am thye ciia tgc ngudi Thai Trang tai xa Son A, huyen Van Chin, tinh Yin Bai.
Do dac thu vung cao, dfing bao Thai Trang d day thudng dl Pa gidng xd trong bep danh khi CO khach, nha xa chp cung ching lo khfing CO mdn ngon dai khach. Ca siy duge
50dem ra hip, ran, ho3e nudng lai cho tliam, nham nhi cimg chen rucoi ndng. Day chinh la each ddng bao Thai Tring thi hien tim chai) tinh va su hieu khiich. Vi vay, trong mdi giai^^
bip eiia ngudi Thai Tring, luon treo san 4 - f'\
con ca say.
Trong nhung mdn dugc che bien tft ca sinh, pa pinh top {cd nu&ng up) la mon khdng the thilu trong ddi sdng ciia ngudi Thai Trang nai day. Tyc ngu' Thai ed eau: "Gd Idn ta dem din, khdng bdng pa pinh top dem cho". Ca nudng la mon an cd lam anh hudng va vai tro quan trgng trong ddi sdng, nd klidng ehi la mdn an hang ngay ma cdn la mdn an tinh than^
nudi dudng van hda am thyc Thai. Pa pinh top la mdn an cau k^ tft each so che eho den each chl bien nhung rat duge ua chupng. Pa pinh tgp dugm vi va ngon nhat khi dugc an eung vdi com nep. Mdt mieng xoi thudng thftc vdi chiit thit va nhan ea pinh lgp (kem rau tbfli, rau miii...) se thay day la mgt su ket hgp hoan hao den bat ngd.
Ca sinh la tinh hoa im thyc ciia ngudi Thai Trang, bdi nd dugc "got ghem" bang nhftng nguyen lieu ed trong thien nhien nhu: la ngoa, la thfii, hat sen... Ca sinh khfing ehi don thuan de tiep dai khach quy ma edn dugc sii dyng trong nhftng djp le Igt truyen thfing nhu;
cuoi hoi, day thang, khanh thiinh nha mdi...
Hoac trong nhftng dip vui eua gia dinh nhu con cai do dat, mua mang bgi thu, ngudi Thai Trang lai lam ca sinh mdi anh em hang x6m cftng chung vui.
Cac mdn lam tu ca sinh la thudc do danh gia ban tay kheo leo eiia ngudi lam bep. Trong,, gia dinh cua ngudi Thai Trang, ngudi phu nu dong vai tro nufii dgy con cai va lo toan ngi trg. Ben canh nhflng due tinh ca ban can phai CO thi ngudi phy nfl Thai Tring con phai the hien due tinh cham chi, biet ganh vie cong viee, cham lo eho gia dinh, dge biet Iii su can man, ti mi trong viec ehe bien cac mon an.
Mdn an eang ngon, cang dep thi cang the hien
dugc sy dam dang, kheo leo va tai npi trg cua
ngudi phu nfl Thai Trang.
NguySn Dieu Linh Tap chi KHOA HQC & CONG NGHE 175(15): 4 9 - 5 3 Trong ddi sfing sinh hoat cgng dong eua
ngudi Thai T r i n g tai xa Son A, ca sinh t h u d n g x u i t hien trong t i t ca cac buoi sinh hogt ehung, h p eung nhau nhiim nhi chen rugu, t h u o n g thftc c a m lam, xdi n i p , ca nu'dng, thjt trau...Viec che b i i n ca sinh thanh nhftng mdn an the hien rang trong ddi sdng sinh hoat cua dan tgc minh, ngudi Thai T r i n g ludn gan bd vdi t y nhien, biet dya vao t y nhiSn d l sang tao ra nhflng net dae trung chi CO d nai day.
C a s i n h t r o n g d d i s o n g t a m linh Ve the gidi tam linh, ngudi Thai T r i n g d Yen Bai e6 quan niem da than va coi trpng phong tyc Cling bai td tien. N g u d i Thai quan niem rarjg: sau khi e h | t la con ngudi dirbc sdng d mgt the gidi khac, vi vgy trong vi?e thd cung ngudi Thai lufin mudn dang len Tfi tien nhflng le vat quy gia nhat.
Trong ddi sfing tam linh ciia ngudi Thai Trang xa Son A, hg eoi ea la bieu tugng cua sy may man. Hau bet trong eac ngay le tet, cudi xin, ma chay, thd eiing tfi tien eua ngirdi Thai Trang, nhftng mdn an truyen thong lam tft ca sinh d u g c sft dung phd bien nhat. Trong kho tiing van hgc dan gian eua minh, ddng bao cdn luu truyen cau chuyen v e loai ca niiy (ngudi Thai xua ggi la ca tien). Chuyen ke rang Then (Trdi) eho loai ngudi xuong chdn duong gian sinh sdng nhung khdng ban cho hg luong thyc. Bdi vay, loai ngu'di phai vao rftng dao cu, hai rau rftng d e duy tri sy sdng...Thay sy khdn cimg dd cua nhan dan.
Then t h u a n g tinh ban cho dfii ca tien, nhd dfli ca lien ay cac loai ca sinh sfli, phat trien khap cae khe suoi, dong r u p n g . . . K e tft do, ddi sfing nhan dan d u g c cai thien, khflng phai vat va sflng qua ngay nhu t r u d c nfla.
Theo ldi ke cQa eae cy cao nien ngudi Thai T r i n g thi cac mdn an d u g e che bien tft ca sinh da cd tft xa x u a va d u g c luu truyen tu ddi nay sang ddi khac. Chinh vi vay, khi dang len td tien, mdn dau tien ma ngudi Thai Trang lya chgn la ea sinh. Ngudi Thai vdn rat eoi trgng
ddi song tam linh, bdi vgy tat ea nhftng gi lien quan den van hda deu mang gia tri tam linh va nhan van sau sac. Neu nhu vdi ngudi Kinh, banh chung, thit md, dua hanh la nhung mdn an khfing the thieu trong dip Tel Nguyen dan thi dfli vdi ngudi Thai d xa San A, huyen Van Chan, tinh Yen Bai, vao djp nay eac hd gia dinh t h u d n g ra sudl danh bat hogc ra d i g M u o n g Lo tim mua ea sinh de phue vu cho viec thd ciing trong 3 ngay tet dau nam. Va mdn an lam lu ca sinh dupe coi la nhung mdn truyen thdng trong tue thd cung cua ngudi Thai ciing vdi com lam, xdi n e p . . . T h u d n g thi ngudi Thai trang d day se lam mon pa pinh top de Cling te, mac du day la mdn an kha can ki, che bien mat riit nhieu thdi gian, nhung qua do the hien dugc su can man, ti mi va long kinh trgng dfli vdi than linh va td tien.
Pa pinh top cflng lii mon an khdng the thieu Irong le an hdi cua ngudi Thai. Ca sinh dugc xe dfii, udp vdi gia vi va cac loai rau rftng sau do gap Igi rdi cho len nudng. Nha trai se mang sang nha gai hai con ca nudng dupe gdi chung bang la dong (hoac la chuoi) va xfii nep de lam qua thua chuyen. Day lit mpt nghi thiic bat huge trong phong tyc truyen thfing eua dan tpc Thai Trang. Mon ca nudng da se duyen cho bao Ida dfii hanh phue, nd tugng trung cho nhftng dieu tfit dep nhat cua hgnh phue lua ddi.
Ngoai pa pinh ldp thi pa gidng xd ciing la mon ca thudng dupe su dung trong dip nay, Ca dung lam mdn pa gidng xd dugc say kho rdi dyng trong nhung gio tre nhd da son dd, sd ca dan cudi tuy thuge vao anh em hg hang, Trong le eiing than ban {Xen bdn), le an com mdi {Kim khau hach), ngudi Thai cung thudng su dung mdn pa pinh lgp. Cdn trong le Cling via {hit khodn) ciia ngudi Thai, dfing bao thudng che bien mdn pa nimg (ea dd) de Cling te.
Thoi quen che bien va thuong thue cae mon an tren deu xuat phat tu' quan niem ciia ngudi Thai Trang: nhu khi nhit cd ngudi 6m thi thudng cho an ca, vdi mong mufin cau sy may
Nguyen Dieu Linh Tap chl KHOA HQC & CONG NGHE 175(15): 49-53 man, lanh Ign, mau khoi benh. Ngoai ra, trong
cac dip le hgi, sua nha, day thang, eiing cho con di hgc, di nhap ngft...ngudi Thai cflng su dung cac mon an dugc chl bien tu' ca sinh de lam le vat ding ciing len than Hnh, tfl tiSn eau binh an, may man eho con chau trong gia dinh.
Nhu vay, chiing ta eo the thay trong suflt vdng ddi cua mmh, ngudi Thai Trang ludn gan lien vdi ea. Ngay day thing, b6 me dng bit lam ca ciing dang len tfi tien, than linh cau mong su phu hd che did cho em be Idn len dupe manh khoe va hgnh phiic. Den khi biet nhgn thue, ehiing lai duge fing, duge bfi day eho each nam ea, lip ca ngoai sufii, ngoai song, day eho each di rftng hai rau dfin eiii, san thu.. .Roi den khi con ngudi mat di eung lai dupe eon chiu dang mon ci sinh vdi tam Idng thanh ki'nh.
Hien trang va bao ton
Trai qua biet bao thang tram bien dgng ve Ijch sft va xa hgi, cho den ngay nay, din tgc Thii Trang d Son A van giu dugc gia tri van hoa am thuc ciia dan tgc minh trong do co nhflng net dac sac eua eac mon an che bien tft ci sinh. Loai ca nay khong chi ed gii tri ve ddi sfing sinh hogt, dugc su dung trong eic bfla an hang ngay, de tiep khach, lam qua cho ngudi thin ma nd con mang nhieu gia tri trong ddi sdng tam linh cua ngudi Thii Trang.
Day la ngudn nguyen lieu iam nen nhftng mdn an dang cung td lien va than linh eiia ngudi Thai. Bdi ddng bito coi do nhu mdn an cua Then ban cho, Chinh vi vay, co le bay gid va ca sau nay, nhftng mdn an ehe bien tft ci sinh mai lii net dac sac trong van hda am thye eua ngudi Thai Trang. Pa pinh lgp, pa gidng xd, pa mogc.se la nhflng mdn 5n ludn dupe nhac den trong ddng Ijeh sft van hoa am thyc ciia ngudi Thai Tring d Son A ndi rieng va toan viing Tay Bae noi chung.
Trong boi canh cua nen kinh tl thi trudng, dae biet la xu hudng giao luu van hda gifl'a eac dan tgc, gifla cac vung miln, van hoa 52
truyen thong ciia ngudi Thai Tring cung nhu cic dan tgc thieu sfl khac dang dung truoc nguy ca mat dan di net ban sac eua mmh. Nha nghien ciiu Kim Anh - Thai Binh cho ring:-
"Nguyen nhdn ddu tien cua sic mai mgt van hda truyin thdng trong cdc tgc ngu&i. Id tac dgng cita xu hu&ng todn cdu hda, xu hudng giao luu vdn hoa dien ra mgnh me. Nguyen nhdn khac quan trgng Id do mgt bd phgn giai tre ihiiu lu tin, ihiiv t\r hda ve bdn sac van hda ddn tgc minh" [I]. Dfing thdi, mfii trudng sinh thai ty nhien dang bi hiiy hogi, can trd sit sinh tdn va phat trien ciia loai ci sinh. Cho nen ngay nay, trong ehe bien mon an, ngucri Thai Trang d San A dang cd xu hudng thay the ca sinh bang cac loai ca khic, dieu do dlif, <
den viec thay dfli rat Idn net truyen thong trong am thuc ciia dan tgc nay.
Trude kia, trong cae mdn ehe bien tu ci sinh, ngudi Thai Trang chi su dyng mgt vai nguyen lieu chu yeu. Vi dy trong mon pa pinh top, ho chi su dyng rau thdi va hat sen nhung ngay nay, dong bao eho them rau mill tau, hanh la, xa, dt. Con trong mon pa mooc, nguyen lieu chu yeu trudc kia ehi c6 hoa chudi va bgt nip, bay gid hg eon cho them hanh la va ca chua.
Nhung nguyen lieu do tgo nen su mdi la cho cae mdn ca, nhimg sy thay ddi nay cflng liim huong vj truyen thong eua mdn an it nhilu bi anh hudng.
Mgt hien trang tieu eye hien nay tgi xa San A,
huyen Van Chan, Yen Bii la ca sinh dang
ngiy mgt vang mat tren cac ddng sufii chay
qua dia ban. Viec xay dyng hang loat eac con
dap, de dieu da lam can trd sy sinh trien cua
loai ca sufii niiy. Ciing vdi dd la viec su dung
qui nhieu eae loai hoa chat dgc hai trong khai
thic thuy sin va nfing nghiep cung la nguyen
nhan lam cho s6 lugng ea thi vii chat lugng
cua cac dim ca sinh ngay cang it di. Vi vgy ma
ca sinh ciia ngudi Thai trd nen khan hiim hem
bao gid het.
Nguyen Dieu Linh Tap chi KHOA HOC & CONG NGHE 175(15): 4 9 - 5 3 K E T LUAN
Trai qua nhieu bien ddi nhung van hfia i m thyc cua ngudi Thai Trang d Son A v i n gift d u g e cac yeu to truyen th6ng, the hi?n tinh thfing nhat nhung lgi cd dae trung viing mien rieng. Viec bao tdn van hfia am thyc noi chung va nghe thuat che bien thudng thftc c i e mdn an tft ea sinh ndi rieng trong bdi canh hien nay la rat can thiet. Van de nay ddi hdi sy vao euge eua nhieu e o quan ban nganh, cac cap ehinh quyen va dac biet lit cdng dong dan e u bin dja nham eai tao mfii trudng sinh sdng eho loai ea sinh va quang ba, gidi thieu rdng rai net van hda am thyc truyen thdng nay cua ngudi Thai Trang den vdi ban be vit du khach gan xa.
TAI LIEU T H A M K H A O 1. Kim Anh, Tliai Binh, Bdo ton vdn hoa truyen thdng vitng Tdy Bdc - ton trgng linh da dgng vdn hda, Truy cap tai trang http://baotintuc.vn/van- hoa/bao-ton-van-hoa-truyen-thong-vung-tay-bac- ton-trong-tinh-da-dang-van-hoa-201407162 21407186.htmngay 17/7/2014
2. Kim Kim, Nhicng ddc sdn ndi liing cua Yen Bdi, Truy cap tai trang https ://www,google.com vn/url?sa^&rclF^j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=
6&cad=rja&uact^8&ved=0ahUKEwiwxp- VimWAhVGpJQKHes4AMoQFghAMAU&url=h ttp%3A%2F%2Fnews.zing.vn%2Fnhung-dac-san- noi-tieng-cua-yen-bai-post6 74782,htm l&usg^
A0vVaw3 fNYL^gm i JpkLwZYBDqbgpnews, ngay 18/8/2016
3. Cam Trgng (1978), Ngu&i Thdi & Tdy Bdc Viel Nam, Nxb Khoa hgc xa hgi. Ha N6i S U M M A R Y
O N Y C H O S T O M A L A T I C E P S I N C U L I N A R Y C U L T U R E O F W H I T E T H A I P E O P L E I N S O N A C O M M U N E , V A N C H A N D I S T R I C T , Y E N B A I P R O V I N C E
Nguyen Dieu Linh' TNU University of Sciences Food is one ofthe components that form ethnic cultural identity. It is inevitable to mention cd sinh - Onychostoma laticeps, a kind of fish, as a prominent kind of food in Thai people's cuisine tradition. Onychostoma laticeps is processed by White Thai people into a variety unique and strange dishes used to offer Divine Spirit and ancestors on festival occasions ofthe year; To treat distinguished guests and visitors from long distance. The dishes from Onychostoma laticeps are a symbol of prosperity, happiness and luck, Tlierefore, they contribute to the typical culinary culture of White Thai people in Yen Bai province in particular and Thai people in the northwestern region in general.
Keywords: While Thai people, Onychostoma laticeps, culinary culture, daily food, spiritual life
Ngdy nhgn bdi; 05/10/2017; Ng^phdn bien: 18/10/2017; Ngdy duyitdang: 29/12/2017
Tel: 0978190882. Email [email protected]
