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FORMULASI KRIM ANTI-AGING DARI KONSENTRAT SARI BUAH STROBERI (Fragaria x ananassa Duchesne ex Weston)
ABSTRAK
Latar belakang: Penuaan dini merupakan hilangnya secara perlahan kemampuan jaringan untuk memperbaiki diri yang berlangsung lebih cepat dari seharusnya yang dapat dihambat dengan menggunakan anti-aging, yaitu kosmetik yang mencegah tanda-tanda penuaan. Buah stroberi merupakan buah yang mengandung antioksidan yaitu vitamin C 60 mg per 100 g yang kerjanya menetralisir radikal bebas.
Tujuan penelitian: Memformulasi krim dari konsentrat sari buah stroberi dan mengetahui efektivitas anti-aging pada kulit.
Metode: Konsentrat sari buah stroberi dibuat dengan cara dijuicer dan difreeze
dryer kemudian diformulasikan dalam krim dengan modifikasi dasar krim
sunblock tipe m/a (propilen glikol, natrium edetat, TEA, vaselin, setil alkohol,
asam stearat, gliseril monostearat, BHT, nipagin, parfum, aquadest) dengan konsentrasi konsentrat sari buah stroberi yaitu F0 (blanko), F1 (5%), F2 (7,5%), F3 (10%), dan F4 (krim Olay). Pengujian krim meliputi uji homogenitas, tipe emulsi, pengukuran pH, penentuan stabilitas selama penyimpanan 12 minggu pada suhu kamar, dan uji iritasi. Pengujian efektivitas anti-aging dilakukan terhadap formula F0 sampai F4 yang terdiri dari 15 orang. Pemakaian krim 2 kali sehari. Parameter yang diukur meliputi kadar air, kehalusan, pori, noda, keriput dan kedalaman keriput menggunakan skin analyzer pada kondisi awal dan setiap minggu selama 4 minggu.
Hasil: Hasil homogenitas menunjukkan krim homogen. Hasil tipe emulsi menunjukkan tipe emulsi m/a. Hasil pengukuran pH F0, F1, F2, F3, dan F4 adalah 5,8; 5,5; 5,2; 4,9; dan 6,4. Semua krim stabil selama 4 minggu, tetapi pada penyimpanan 8 minggu terjadi perubahan warna pada F1, F2, dan F3 dari warna merah kecokelatan menjadi cokelat dan perubahan bau selama penyimpanan 12 minggu. Sediaan krim tidak mengiritasi kulit. Hasil efektivitas anti-aging diperoleh F3 memberikan hasil yang lebih baik daripada formula lain.
Kesimpulan: Konsentrat sari buah stroberi dapat diformulasikan dalam krim
anti-aging dan F3 (krim 10%) menunjukkan efektivitas anti-aging yang terbaik.
Kata kunci: Konsentrat sari buah stroberi, krim, anti-aging.
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FORMULATION OF ANTI-AGING CREAM FROM STRAWBERRY FRUIT (Fragaria x ananassa Duchesne ex Weston)
CONCENTRATED JUICE
ABSTRACT
Background: Premature aging is a gradual loss of the ability of skin tissue to improve itself. It can be inhibited by using anti-aging, i.e. cosmetic which detains the onset of the skin aging signs. Strawberry fruit contain antioxidant i.e. 60 mg vitamin C per 100 g, that can neutralize the effects of free radicals.
Objective: To formulated anti-aging cream from concentrated strawberry juice and to determined the effectivity of anti-aging cream on skin.
Methods: Strawberry concentrated juice was made using juicer and freeze dryer and was formulated in a cream with modified sunblock cream base type o/w (propilen glikol, sodium edetat, TEA, vaselin, cetil alcohol, stearat acid, gliseril monostearat, BHT, nipagin, parfum, aquadest) with strawberry concentrated juice concentration of F0 (blank), F1 (5%), F2 (7.5%), F3 (10%), and F4 (comparative Olay cream). Cream testing included homogeneity test, emulsion type test, pH measurement, determination of stability during 12 weeks of storage at room temperature, and skin irritation test. Anti-aging activity test was carried out on formula F0 to F4 which consisted of 15 volunteers. Cream was applied 2 times a day. Aging parameters measured included moisture, smoothness of skin, pores, spot, wrinkles and depth of wrinkles using a skin analyzer on the initial conditions and each week for 4 weeks of cream administration.
Results: Homogeneity test results indicated that anti-aging creams was homogeneous, the type of emulsion was type O/W. pH measurement result of F0, F1, F2, F3, and F4 was 5.8; 5.5; 5.2; 4.9; and 6.4. All creams were stable for 4 weeks, but at 8 weeks of storage the color changed in F1, F2, and F3 from red-brown to red-brown and smell changed during storage of 12 weeks. Anti-aging cream did not irritated. F3 showed the best anti-aging effectivity compared to the other formula.
Conclusion: Concentrated strawberry juice can be formulated in anti-aging creams and F3 (cream 10%) showed the best effectivity of anti-aging.
Keywords: concentrated strawberry juice, cream, anti-aging.
