iETHONGEOATlETTIAl
TREN LONG BAO HOANG DE TRIEU N G U Y I N
NGUYEN THI THU HA
Tom tat: LS phuc Cung dinh trieu tJguyen gom cd siu loai: cdn, bao, tran, giao ITnh, menh phu va bl bao HaTiQ cao nhi't cua nam bio la Long bao cHa cic Hoang de (thudng dudc nhi vua mac trong cac dip Bails taidien Thaihda).
Toin bo he thdng hga tiet trang trf tren Long bio Hoang de la mdt bdc tranh sinh dgng, mdi mgt hga tiet/chi tiet deu co mgt vl trfxdng dang trong bdcuc, cd tinh nghe thuat die trdng cua van hda - my thuat thdi Nguyen, dong thdi mang gii tri nhd mgt bieu tddng ve nhan sinh quan cija Vddng trieu Nguyen trong mdi giao hda gida con ngddi vdi thien nhien trong the gidi tinh than: Thien - Dia - Nhan. Nd tugng trdng cho sdc manh tap trung cua Nha vua trong he thdng chinh trj Nho giao dUdng thdi, ddng thdi li m0t
tac pham nghe thuat, xdng danh la mot bieu tUdng ve lich sd - van hda - my thuat cua Viet Nam trong lich sdphit trien dat nddc.
Ttr khoa: Long bao hoang de, Lg phuc VUdng trieu Nguygn, hg thfl'ng hpa tiet trang tri, Hoa sTTrinh Bach Abstract: The ceremonial costume in imperial palace of Nguyen Dynasty consists of six items:
Imperial robe, feudal court robe, tran, giao iinh, menh phu and bi bao. The highest rank for man mantle is imperial robe which was used for the King (in some Great festival days celebrated In Thai Hoa temple).
The entire decorative pattern system on the King's mantle makes it a lively picture; each pattern/detail has got Its own worthy position In the frame, which possesses the artistic feature of culture - fine art in Nguyen Dynasty; simultaneously, it is considered a symbol of Nguyen Dynasty's philosophy of life in harmony between human and nature in the spiritual worid: Heaven - Earth - l\Jlan. it represents for concentrative power of the King in the contemporary Confucius system. At the same time, it is deserving an art work regarded as the symbol of Vietnamese history - culture - fine art in the national development history.
Keywords: Imperial robe, Nguyen Dynasty's ceremonial costume, decorative pattern system, artist Trjnh Bach
NGHIEN CLfU - TRAO DOI
VUdng trieu Nguyin (1802 -1945) la che do quan chu cudi cung cua Viet Nam dong thdi cung i i trieu dai dau tien thdng nhat mot dai non sdng nude Viet tU Bac tdi Nam. Ke thda di sin tU cic trieu dai quin chu tu chu trudc dd, md dau l i Ngd Quyen rdi de'n cac trieu dai nhi Dinh, TiSn Le, Ly, Tran, Hiu Le tdi 9 ddi chua Nguyin (1558 -1775) va 13 ddi vua Nguyin (1802 - 1945) da de lai di san Idn nhat la mgt dat nddc Viet Nam gan nhu tuong Ung vdi iinh thd Viet Nam hien dai, gdm c i di't iien va hai dio tren bie'n Ddng.
Trong biy di sin van hda cua Viet Nam m i UNESCO ghi danh trong danh muc di san van hda nhin loai ngiy 11/12/1993, thi da cd 3 di sin dUdc xiy dung hoac dugc vun dap true tie'p ciia VUdng trieu Nguyin: dd l i quan the cac di sin kien true Cd dd Hue, dd thi CO Hdi An (di sin van hda vat thif), nha nhac Cung dinh Hue (di sin van hoa phi vat the').
Di sin vat the ma VUdng trieu Nguyin de' lai cd nhdng suu tap hien vdt vda cd gia tri kinh te', vda cd gia trj van hda cao, trong dd bd suu tap trang phuc Cung dinh nhu mot die'm nhi'n sing ngdi bdi su quy, hiem vdi nhdng gii tri vd song ve su tuyet ky trong ky thuat - my thuat duoc cac nghe nhan the hien tren nhdng ta'm i o Cung dlnh xua.
Trang phuc Cung dinh l i ldi trang phuc cao cap, ham chUa nhieu va'n de Ijch sd, van hda v i my thuit.
Theo nha nghidn cUu TS. Tran DUc Anh Son:
"Nhin tren phuong dien my thuat, mdi mgt bd trang phuc cua cic bac de hauthdi Nguyin chinh l i mdt t i c pham nghe thuit. Dd la su ket hop cua nghe thuit may then, hdi hga vdi nghe kim hoan. Phong each trang tri mang mdt net thuan Nguyin tU cic hga tiet rong, may de'n hdi v i n thiiy ba, chd thg... NhDng md tip a'y da xua't hien rat nhieu tren cic chi't lieu gd, ddng, vdi vda, gd'm sd... Cung nhu viec trang tri tren cac chi't lieu khic, trang tri tren v i i cung cd sg bie'n chuyin qua tdng thdi dai v i mdi giai doan ljch sd da de' lai nhiing da'u an khd phai md tren cac t i c pha'm ay. Trdn y nghTa dd, trang phuc cua vua, chua nha Nguyin hien tdn khdng chi ddn thuan i i nhdng bd quan ao quy bau, nhiing cd v i t vd gia ma cdn l i nhiing t i c pham nghe
thuat, nhdng sd lieu bi't t h i n h van ra't can thiet cho viec nghien cdu Ijch sir, van hda thdi Nguyin trdn flit Hue""'
Trong khudn khd' b i i viet, xin dugc gidi thieu he thd'ng hoa tiet trang tri tren hien vat da dugc Trung tam bio tdn di tich Co dd Hue v i hoa sy Trjnh Bach phuc che theo m i u Long bio Hoing (/e'cua vua Dong Khanh (1886 - 1888), bao gdm haJ phien bin hien dang duoc trung biy tai Dai ndi - Hoing thinh Hueva Bao t i n g Ljch sil thinh pho Hd Chl IVlinh.
Ld phuc Cung dinh trieu Nguyin gdm cd siu ioai:
cdn, bao, tra'n, giao ITnh, menh phu vi bl bio (trong dd b i o v i bl bao dugc dung choca nam va nOj.Tatca nhdng loai i o nay deu dUdc may hai Idp, Idp lot duoc may lien v i o ben trong cac vat i o ngoai.
Ao bao gdm nam b i o va nO bio. Ao bio dddc cat dang nam than, cd' trdn. Ao b i o thudng dddc mac ngoai ao canh hoac bi bao (goi l i i o clip).
Hang cao nhi't ciia nam b i o l i Long bao ciia cac Hoing de. Long bao then COu long ngU trio (chin con rong nam mdng), tan van, doi phuc, van tue, qua loi, sdng nude, san hd, tam son. Sau lung Long bao cd hai la lenh (hinh thdc la lenh da tha'y xuat hien sdm tren cic tddng da tai khu di tich Lam Kinh - Thanh Hda).
Vai may Long bio l i mdt loai vai dac biet goi la doan hoic sa nam m i u chinh hoing dUdc det t d t d t i m chat Iddng hio hang.
Trieu dlnh nha Nguyin cd nhdng guy djnh rat nghiem ngat ve su phan djnh thd bac qua trang phuc, dac biet ve de t i i trang tri. Ao vua trang tri rdng, ao hoing hau va cdng chua trang tri chim phugng, hoa...
Hinh rong tren Long bao Hoing de cd nim mdng, Long bag Hoing thai tCf cung la rong nam mdng nhung tren nen v i i mau hda hoing hay dai hdng, sic mau chinh hoing dac biet chi d i n h rieng cho nhi vua. Ao bio ciia c i c hoing than, hoing ti^ v i cic quan chl duoc then rong bon mdng (ggi l i mang bio).
Long b i o duac nha vua mic trong cic djp Bai 16 tai dien T h i i Hda. Ao mac trong l i thie't Dai trieu flUflc quy djnh rd nhu sau: "Ao hoing bio may bang sa doan sac v i n g chinh, then rong Idn nhd, may, thuy ba va
NGHIEN CtfU - TRAO DOI
bo'n chO phue tho- Trong lot sa day td h[fu, hoac tri^u do hoa tli hDu, hai canh bing doan mau lam t h i m , dau tam sdi to trang bdng, mat trdflc mat sau mdi mat ba hinh rdng nho hai tay ao mfli tay eo hai hinh rflng hai canh va san hd, hfla luu d^u xau chufli bang hat ngpc ehau nhd. C6 ao bing doan dau tam sdi td bong mau tuyg'ttrang, dai ru xufl'ng d^uthgu rdng may"'^'.
Trong khi do ao thudng tneu lai di/de quy dinh khac: "Ao bao dung sa mong toan sgi td sae vang ehinh, trong Idt sa sac vang chinh. Theu con rong cugn trdn Ifln, bat bao, thuy ba, mat rong deu l<ham bing ho' phach huyen, con d^u chufli kg't bing hat ngoc chau nhd, hai mat tay ao chudi k6't chau ngoc lamchDhay..."'^'.
He thfl'ng hga tig't trang tri tren Long bao Hoang dfi'dUde Trung tam bao ton di tich Cd dd Hue va hoa sy Trinh Bach phuc ehe theo m l u Long bao eua vua Dflng Khanh hien dang dUdc trung bay da th^ hien ro net v^
quan niem, tu tudng cQng nhi/ si; phan dinh dang cap cua eae thanh vign trong hoang tgc va trong h? thfl'ng chinh quyen trung uong nha Nguyin; dong thdi cho ehung ta hieu them ve tu tudng, quan ni?m va each Lfngx&cDa VUdng tri^u Nguygn trong mfl'i giao hfla giOa con ngiidi vdi thign nhi§n trong the gidi tinh than:
Thign-Dja-Nhan.
Xin duoc gidi thieu hg tho'ng hpa tig't trang tri dac biet trgn Long bao Hoing de- mot trong nhDng bieu tu'flngcijachedo quan ehti mot thdi.
Than trufle va than sau ao eo hinh thire va bo cue hpa tiet tddng t i ; nhau. Tap trung va ndi bgt nha't tren nguc ao la hinh mOt eon rong idn nam mong, mat nhin
thing vfli bflmtrgndauddngdifng (rang ngang). Toan bo than rong di/dc phu kin mflt Idp vay nha vay ca chep, than rong uo'n cong rat Idn, du da an hien trong tang t i n g van may [rdng an van) nhung hinh rong trung tam v i n the hien rd uy li;c cDa vuOng quyen. Dufli rong ket xoay hoa my ma manh me, can xifng vdi mat rong tren true dgc chinh ciJa than ao.
Td giiJa than ao trd xudng ia hai con rong nho trong td the ufl'n khue nam ngang theo mfl tip Lddng long trieu nhat (hai con rdng chau mat trfli), huflng ve con rdng Ifln trung tam. Con rdng Ifln 6 nguc ao ehinh la bieu tUdng hoang de va nhiJng eon rong nhfl the hiSn xu huflng tap trung chu hau xung quanh thign ttr.
Dac biet, phin ga'u ao the hien ro net tai hoa bac thay cua nhOng nghe nhan nghe theu thdi Nguygn vfli dd an Tam sdn thuy ba. Cac vach thang (thudng goi la cQt thOy) nhu da't me bao la vdi bdng dang cua rimg cay dai thu ma dlnh eao nha't la tam son ndi bat trgn trung triing song nufle. Rifng cay, ngon nui mang tu each la gach nd'i giiia trfli cha va dat me, la nguon chuyen tai sinh luc cua thanh nhan xufl'ng eho dat va nuflc, mang tu each mflt "true vu tru"'^K Theo y kig'n cDa PGS.TS Tran Lam Bien, mpt nha nghign cifu van hda - my thuat - nhan hoc thi de tai nay cd nguon go'e ti/y thdc rat xi/a.
Ben eanh nhDng Iflp song cugn, van may uyen chuyen, nhjp nhang ndi ien nhDng eanh san hd vdi y nghTa bieu ti/flng trong he cay thien menh (cung ggi la cay menh). Trong quan ni?m xi/a, cay thien menh cd kha nang hut sinh luc tD bau trfli chuyg'n xufl'ng cho dat va nuflc dg' lam bimg sang len mpt eupe sd'ng trdn diy, no du. Hinh thDc cay thien menh cdn dUdc tha'y trgn eae ban thfl Phat hoac di vao dfli song nhu nhDng hang cay dai trong san chua,
Than sau ao eon cd them hai la Ignh (eon gpi la hai canh, canh iign, eanh chudn...) dupe trang tri hai con rpng Idn cupn minh trong cac dai may vdi the Long giang (rong ha) cung nhjp tam son thuy ba tuy rut gon nhung van tao thanh bo cue dfl'i xDng nhjp nhang eho hinh rdng dang trong the chuyen dflng .
Hai o'ng tay ao dai, rpng dae biet (tay ao dai bang
149
NGHIEN CtfU - TRAO DOI
t h i n io) dddc trang tri theo md ttp LuSng long tranh chau (hai con rong vdn hat t r i n chiu). Mdi con rong udn khue tren tUng tay do, dau rdng phia sau, dudi rong cudn xoay cdn xdng ra phia trudc, hai hat chau ngoc/qui Idi cd guang Ida n i m sat mep tay ao,
Cung khu vuc tay i o cd tUng cap ddi dd'i xdng, tugng trung cho ngu phuc (phu, quy, tho, khang, ninh) v i nhdng nhip thijy ba nhd tao su lidn ke't, thd'ng nhi't v i bd cue gida cic do i n trang tri tren Long bao.
Trdn hai d i i ru xudng (dugc that mgt each tuong trung ben nach i o phai) mdi d i i cDng dUdc theu hinh rdng vdi md tip Long giang (rong ha). Du dUde tao hinh tren mdt d i i diy nhd hep, nhung hinh rong vin day ddng manh vdi thd thing dUng, dau guay ngude ien bau trdi, hudng ve hinh rdng Idn trung tdm. Dudi mep dii i o l i hinh tam sdn thijy ba thu nhd tao nen su hoan chinh cho dd i n trang t r i v i tao the'can dd'i, vdng chai cho rong bay ien.
Toin bd Long bio Hoing ie la mgt bUc tranh sinh ddng, mdi mdt hga tie'fchi tie't deu cd mdt vj tri xdng dang trong bd cue, cd tinh nghe thuat dac trung cua van hda - my thuat thdi Nguyin, ddng thdi mang gia tri nhd mgt bieu tUdng ve nhdn sinh quan cDa VUdng trieu Nguyin.
Khdi diu ngay dudi cd' i o l i hai chd van thg theo kieu chd trien. Ngay tiep dd l i hinh rdng trung tam tugng trung cho Hoang de. Nhiing hinh rdng nhd nhu tang Iflp b i quan van vd chau hau guanh thien td. Qua hinh thdc va bd' cue cic hinh rong, cd the tha'y rd sU phan hda cua rong, khing djnh guyen luc cua nha vua tren ITnh vUc tinh than, ddng thdi mang y nghTa bieu tddng cho tang trdi khfli nguydn cuavu trg.
Tren khip than ao l i v i n m i y xoan, vda l i m nen trang tri cho cic bieu tuflng VUdng guyen, nhung cung mang g i i trj tugng trung iidn guan tdi m i y mua si'm chdp, hdp Idng hdp y vdi udc nguyen "mua thuan gid hda" cua mgt di't nude ndng nghiep.
Xen l i n gida nhiing Idp m i y i i nhdng qui Idi dien/chau ngoc/mat trdi cung tUdng ddng mgt y nghia tren.
Hinh doi nhu mgt ifli eau chuc vidn man cho phu - quy-thg-khang-ninh.
Phan ke't thue vfli d i tai trang tri Tam sin thiiy ta d ga'u ao tuong trung cho Dja - D i t Me bao la vOng chai vdi nhdng udc nguyen ve mdt coi n h i n gian binh yen- phuc ddc, van vat sinh sdi n i y nfl tren sU m i u md Iran day cua Da't v i NUdc.
Toin bd de t i i , hinh thdc v i bdcgc hga tie't trang tri trdn Long bao Hoing ie6aVr>e hien trgn ven mfii the'gidi Thien - D j a - Nhin cua tang Idp Nho sT nam guyen thd'ng trj, lai duge the hidn bdi b i n tay can oil kheo leo va tam hdn hudng thien eua cac nghe nhSn- cu dan ndng nghiep Ida nude di't Viet nen Long bao Hoing ievisa tUdng trung cho sdc manh tap trung cua nha vua trong hg thd'ng chinh tri Nho giao flUflng thdi, ddng thdi l i mdt t i c pham nghe thuit, xdng danh l i mgt bie'u tugng v i ijch sd - v i n hda - my thuit cua Viet nam trong tien trinh h i n g n g i n nim flung nude va gid nuflc.
"Thac sT NSUT, Trudng DH San khiu - Dien anh Ha NJi.
TAI LIEU THAM KHAO
"' Tran Ddc Anh Son (1997), Trang pbac ciia vua cbia thii Nguyin - Bio ting My thuat Cung dinb Hul (tip 2),\i.SI
"' (1993) Ngi cic tneu Nguyin - kbim dinh Dai nam H^i dien siie (lip 5), NXB Thujn Hda, tr.449,450.
" (1993) Ngi cic trieu Nguyin - Kbim dinb Bai nam Hii iien saii (lap 14), NXB Thuan Hoa, tr.327.
'"Trin Lam Bien, Tnnh Smh (2011), TM'gidibih Iddas trong di sin van hda, NXB Ha NOi, tr.127.
(Ngiy Toa scan nbin dagc bii: 07/7/2014: Ngiy pbb bien dinb gii: 08/8/2014: NgiycbHp nhan ding. 15/8/2014)
