HIEN CCIU - TRAO DOI
NANG Ll/C CANH TRANH T VIET NAM GIAI DOA
TS. NQUYEM HOANG Tri/clng Dgi hpc ThiftJng mai
Do tac ddng cua cuOc khung hoang kinh tS' keo dai da lam giam stfc mua trSn thi trtfcTng nSi dia, khi^n hang may mac trong ntfdc phai thu hep san xuS't.
TrSn thi trtfdng xuS't khtfu, ntfdc ta cung phai dS'i di£n vdi bai toan thtfdng hieu khi da phin chi lam gia cSng cho cac thtfdng hi$u n^i tie'ng khac. Vi v$y, viec khang dinh thtfdng hiSu dang I^
vS'n ii c l n dtfglc tfu tign doii vdi hang may m$c Viet Nam.
^
TAI THI TRl/C(NG NOI DIA
Diem ndi bat cua thi trtfdng ndi dia hdng may mdc Id stf diu ttf ddng k l eda cdc doanh nghidp san xud't Idn vdo he thdng 5.982 doanh nghiep vdi hdng ngdn cffa hdng gidi thidu vd bdn san pham cda nhO^g thtfdng hidu quen thupe, nhtf: Viet Tid'n, Ninomax, Nhd Be, Phtfdng Ddng, May 10... Bdn canh dd Id stf Uen kdt tidu thu sdn pham btfdc dau cua cdc tong cdng ty bdn le, nhtf:
Vinatexmart, Saigon Co-opmart, Phu Thdi, Happro.
Mdt sd thtfdng hieu may mac da ndi tieng d thi trtfdng ttong ntfde nhtf Vidt Tid'n, Nha Be, May 10, Thanh Cdng, Thang Ldi va Vidt Thang va da dtfde ngtfdi tidu dimg binh chpn Id hdng Viet Nam ehd't Itfdng cao.
Tuy nhidn, hpi nhdp kinh td da md cij'a cho cdc nhd diu ttf ntfdc ngodi vao Viet Nam ngay cdng nhilu hdn.
Nhilu hang tiidi trang va ban le ntfde ngoai da ttfng btfdc thdm nhdp vdo thi trtfdng Vidt Nam nhtf Mango, Gucci, Metro, Big C... Trong bo'i canh cdc doanh nghidp hong ntfdc dang gap rd't nhilu khd khan, ndu khdng cd chidn ltfdc tdt, tiii hdng may mdc trong ntfdc se gap phdi nguy cd Idn Id mat thtfdng hieu vdo tay cdc nha diu ttf, thdng qua cdc hinh tiitfc mua bdn - sdp nhdp, cd ddng chidn ltfdc, chuyin nhtfdng cd phin...
Chung ta cung ed nhffng ddn vi san xult hang may m^c cao^ed'p, gid ttf 300 ddn 1000 euro mdt do sd mi; Idm hdng kieu, do jacket; hoac nhtf Vidt Tie'n dang chuin bi Idm cho Louis Vuitton (gia cdng do sd mi), X.28 idni thue cho Hugo Boss... Ddc biet, mdt sdhdng ehd't Itfdng eao nhtf sd mi, quan jean, do jacket dat tieu ehuan qudc
te da khang dinh dtfde cho dtfhg d cdc thi tnfdng chdu Au, My vd Nhat Bdn... Nhtfng mdt thtfc td Id, ngtfdi tieu diing trong niidc hiu het chi chip nhdn mua hang ndi dia vdi mtfc gid ming binh!
Trong khi dd, ty Ip hdng Trung Qudc hidn van chidm phan Idn thi trtfdng hang may san cda Viet Nam. Stf xult hidn ciia hang loat cdc thtfdng hidu thdi trang ciia ede ntfdc tren thd gidi, nhtf: Gucci, CK, Mo&Co Tim Berland, Guy Laroche, Levis, Burberry, LV, Lacoste... dd gid bdn khdng h i re, tff 50-70 USD/sdn pham ddn vdi trdm USD/sdn phim, nhtfng vin thu hut khd ddng khdeh hdng va tang trtfdng khd manh. Theo danh gid ciia Hidp hdi Ddt may Vidt Nam, tieu thu trdn thi trtfdng ndi dia mdi chid'm 20% doanh sd ban hang ciia cdc doanh nghi$p, con lai xud't khdu chid'm tdi 80%.
Vdi "cue didn" dd, khi mtfc thud nhdp khau danh eho san phim may mac hi 20% giam xudng con 0% vdo thdi dilm ntfdc ta tham gia Hidp dinh ddi tdc kinh td chidn ltfde xuydn Thdi Binh Dtfdng (TPP), nhieu chuyen gia lo ngai ve kha nang chung ta cd t h i mlt ndt thi phan khidm td'n 6 phdn khdc trung binh nhtf hien nay.
TREN TH! TRl/CfNC X U X T K H X U Phan Idn cdc sdn phim may mdc ciia Vidt Nam xuat khau sang cdc ntfdc nhif EU, My, Nhdt dtfdc tidn hdnh qua m6t ntfdc trung gian thtf ba Id ede ddi tdc, nhtf Hdng Kdng, Nhdt Bdn, Hdn Qudc, Tnmg Qudc, Ddi Loan...
Thi trudng My: Sau Hidp dinh ThtfcSag mai song phtfdng Vidt - My cd hidu lUt ngdy 10/12/2001, My da nhanh chdng ti-a tiianh till trtfdng xud't khiu hdng may m^c Idn nhd't cua Vi^t Nam. Ndm 2012, My ehidm tdi 49,42% tiii trtfdng xultldilu hang may m^c cua Vidt Nam. Tuy nhidn, vi hi c i a Vidt Nam trdn tiii trtfdng My vin cdn khidm tdn so vdi cdc hang sdn xuat hdng may m§e cua Trung Qudc, cdc ntfdc ASEAN va cdc ntfdc Bde vd Trung My.
Thi trudng EU: Tuy cd nhu cau nhdp
46
JONG HIEU HANG MAY MAC HAU KHUNG HOANG
khau Idn, nhiftig EU cung Id tiii trtfdng doi hdi khat khe ve ehdt Itfdng, ma ddn hdng lai tiitfdng khdng Idn, ndn vi tri ciia hang may mdc Viet Nam tidn tiii trtfdng EU van han chd. Nam 2012, till trtfdng nay chid'm 14,7% thi phin xult khau ciia Vidt Nam.
Thi trudng Nhdt Bdn: Kim ngach xuat khiu hang may mac cfia Vidt Nam sang Nhdt Bdn cd xu htfdng tang trong nhiing nam gan day. Nam 2011, thi trtfdng nay dat tdng trtfdng 46,4%, nam 2012, tang titfdng 16,82%, chiem 13% tiii phin xud't khiu cua Viet Nam.
Ngodi ba thi trtfdng chinh noi tidn, ntfdc ta cdn xuat khiu sang nhilu ntfdc khdc, nhtf: Han Qudc, Canada, Dai Loan, Trung Qudc... dtfa Viet Nam xdp thtf 5 trong cdc ntfdc xud't khiu nganh hdng may mac Idn trdn thd gidi, vdi kim ngach xud't khiu dat hdn 15,1 ty USD nam 2012.
Dii vdy, so vdi cdc qud'c gia khdc trong khu vtfc nganh may mac ntfde ta cd quy mo eon nhd va nang Itfc san xua't con yiu, hidn nay chi bdng 16% cua Thdi Lan va 13% ciia Inddnexia. Ben eanh do, stfc eanh tianh ciia hang may mac ntfdc ta ydu nhit d cdc thi trtfdng canh ttanh ttf do (thi tnfdng phi han ngach) vdi kim ngach xud't khiu rd't khidm tdn. Nd'u chi chay theo thtf hang cao, nhtfng vin ch^
ydu la nh|p khd'u nguydn Udu, bdn san pham, dn ddn gid gia cong, thi dii kim ngach xud't khiu cao, nhiftig thtfc chat ldi nhudn thd'p.
Ngoai ra, cdc doanh nghidp ntfdc ta cdn thid'u nin tdng giao dich dn dinh vdi cdc doanh nghidp cung cip nguyen phu lidu, kdnh ltfu thong hang may mac vin chtfa hoan thidn. Hang may mac xua't khau ndi chung ehtfa co nhan mac thtfdng hidu ridng. Do dd, Idm giam dang ke khd ndng canh ttanh eua san phim may mac trdn till trtfdng xuat khiu. Nguydn nhdn la do hdng may mdc Vidt Nam chtfa thtfc stf quan tdm ddng mtfc ddn cdng tdc thidt ke, mlu mdt va nhat Id uy tin thtfdng hidu.
D£ic bidt, stf phat ttidn hdng may mac Vidt Nam ehtfa ddm bdo ydu clu ttong ntfdc vd qudc td v l ydu td than thidn vdi
mdi trtfdng. Day la ttd ngai Idn, khi ma than thien vdi mdi trtfdng ngay cdng ttd thanh mpt ttong nhffng ydu td quan ttpng, quyd't dinh Itfa chpn cua ngtfdi tidu diing eua mdt sd' thi trtfdng khd tinh ttdn thd' gidi.
D E X U X T GIAI PHAP
D l thtfdng hieu hang may mac Vidt Nam "du" nang Itfc canh ttanh vdi cac thtfdng hidu khdc tren the' gidi, con cd rd't nhilu vide phdi lam. Theo do:
Mdt Id, hodn thiin bd mdy qudn tri thuang hiiu Nhidm vu ciia bd phdn quan tti thtfdng hidu Id nghidn etfu thi trtfdng qud'c td' d l cd dff Udu phuc vu ede muc tidu chid'n ltfdc. Hoat ddng quan tri thtfdng hieu thtfdng chi c6 thi dat hidu qua tdi ifu nd'u dat dtfdi stf eh! dao trtfc tiep ciia lanh dao doanh nghidp cd thIm quyIn lidn kdt chid'n Itfpc thtfdng hidu vd chid'n ltfdc kinh doanh.
Dac bidt, khi dtfa thtfdng hidu vao thi trtfdng qudc td', cd thi se phat sinh nhu eau phdt trien hoac tai cau true bp phan quan tri thtfdng hidu so vdi khi doanh nghidp chi hoat ddng tai thi tttfdng ndi dia. Do dd, cln cd chid'n ltfdc ridng vl nguin nhdn Itfc qudn tri thtfdng hidu qudc te.
Hai Id, hodn thiin bd phdn phdp l^ liin quan din thuang hieu
Tuy theo quy md phdt triin vd dd dn dinh ttong hoat dpng kinh doanh ciia minh, mdi doanh nghidp diu it nhilu phai xtf ly mpt hay mpt sd chtfc nang, nhiem vu phdp \f lidn quan dd'n thtfdng hidu. Do vdy, vide bd tri mpt chtfc danh kidm nhidm v l khia canh phdp 1^
cda thtfdng hieu, mpt chtfc danh chuydn ttach phdp ly v l thtfdng hidu hoac mdt bp phan (nhdm chuyen gia) chuyen ttdch v l sd hffu tri md Id diiu md doanh nghidp ndn xem xet tttfde khi stf dung dich vu ttf vdn phdp ly ttf
BIEU D 6 1: KIM MGACH X U A T KHAO HAHQ MAY MAC CCIA VIET ISAM
Dtfn vi : Tn^u USD
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—Tine nuiogMp - • - l i n g Huong EU TingmWiigNMi
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Nguda: S6lieuihongk& MiTa- iihJp kh.lu, 1<'i
Economy and Foretasl Review
47
HIEN CCra - TRAO DOI
ben ngodi. Vdi cac doanh nghidp da cd bp phdn phdp chd' hoac cd ludt stf ridng, bd phan ndy ed t h i kiem nhidm cdc vd'n de ve thtfdng hidu.
Ba Id, tdng cUdng vai trd cua Hiip hdi Dit may Vi$t Nam
Trong vide hd ttd doanh nghidp nang cao hidu qua qudn tri thtfdng hidu, can sdm hinh
M^ng cao ••••" ^ ^^^n quo' "
•Us™ « i * W ' f »«5 va thdnh cdng dong chuyen
gia phap ly v l thtfdng hidu ea trong gidi luat gia, ludt stf vd doanh nghidp. Hidp hpi Det may cd the xem xdt thid't Idp cdc ed sd dff lieu nghien etfu thi trtfdng chuyen ngdnh de cung ibig eho ede hpi vien. Dong thdi, phong each kinh doanh cua Hidp hdi cung can dtfdc qudn tri de gdp phin trd thdnh mdt ddi tdc cd tinh chidn ltfdc
cua nhieu td ehtfc khdc, nhtf: Chinh phu, cdc tdp dodn cdng nehiep/dich vu, cdc dinh chd' tdi ehinh, cdc td ehtfc truyen thdng, cdc hidp hdi doanh nghiep khdc ttong va ngodi ntfdc.
Ngoai ra, Hidp hdi ndn td chtfc h5 ttd cdc doanh nghidp thanh vidn phdt trien cac hoat dpng ddnh gid, dinh gid, ghi nhdn vd edng bd' cdc thtfdng hidu manh da dtfdc cac doanh nghidp day cdng phat trien. Vide Hidp hdi tich ctfc tham gia vdo cdc td ehtfc khu vtfc hoac qud'c td hoat ddng ttong nhffng linh vtfc lidn quan se giup md thdm nhilu cau ndi eho cdc doanh nghidp thanh vidn ttong qua trinh phdt tridn thtfdng hidu ciia minh ra thi trtfdng qudc td.
Bdn Id, hodn thiin cdc chinh sdch lien quan din thuang hiiu
Chfnh phu cln tang ctfdng cdc chinh sdch hd ttd doanh nghidp phdt trien edng nghd, I n dinh vd ndng eao cha't Itfdng san phim, bdo dam tinh an toan, than thidn vdi mdi trtfdng... ciia hang hda xudt khiu. Ddng tiidi, ed chinh sach hd ttd phdt trien ngudn nhdn Itfe chuydn mdn cao ttong eae nganh nghi ttf van qudc td' ve: nghien etfu thi trtfdng, truyen thdng, xdc tid'n dau ttf.
m O t s d h a n g * ch&t
xdc tidn tiitfdng mai, chuyen giao cdng nghd, ttf phdp qudc td, sd hifu tri tud...
Ben canh dd, Vidt Nam can tdng ctfdng chinh sdch sdn xuat, bao gom nhffng boat ddng gia tdng nhieu gid tri ( p h d ' t tiien cdng nghidp phu ttd, tiiidt kd, marketing..) dd chinh Id cdch thtfe d l Vidt Nam cd t h i hdi nhdp dpc vd xudi chilu theo chuoi gid tri toan clu vd ndng eao toan bd chudi gid tri htfdng tdi xdy dtfng hinh dnh hdng may mdc Viet Nam "Chat Itfdng - Thdi trang - Thdn thidn - Mdi trtfdng".
Ddc bidt, cln sdm co ehinh sdch phat triin va ghi nhdn ede thtfdng hidu ndi tidng eua Vidt Nam de tao h§u thudn qudc gia eho cdc thtfdng hidu ttdn thtfdng trtfdng qudc td.
Ndm Id, tdn dung cdc ca hdi trong qud trinh hdi nhdp khu vUc vd qudc ti
Tdng ctfdng diu ttf vdo sdn xult vd cung tfng nguydn phu lidu cho ngdnh may mac ttdn cd sd phdt triin 2 trung tdm cun^
u^g nguydn phu lidu tai Hd Ndi vd TP. Ho Chi Minh. Tid'p tuc vdn ddng hdnh lang va dau ttanh chdng lai cd chd giam sdt hdng may mdc nhdp khiu tff Vidt Nam vd ttf khdi ddng diiu tta chdng bdn phd gid ciia My. Td chtfc cdc boat ddng xuc tidn thtfdng mai vd kdu gpi diu ttf ttong ntfdc vd khu vtfc, td chtfc cdc hdi nghi - hdi thdo - didn ddn ve may m^ic qudc td, khu vtfc...
Bdn canh dd, cdc doanh nghidp may mdc Vidt Nam cln tich ctfc tham gia vdo mang Itfdi sdn xult ttong khu vtfc vd chuSi gid tri todn clu cua ngdnh may mdc, nhtf:
Lidn "dodn may mdc ASEAN (AFTEX), Uy ban Qudc td v l May m|c...Q
TAI L I ^ U THAM KHAO
1. Dang Phtfdng Dung (2008). Ngdnh May mdc Viet Nam trong khudn khdh^i nh^p sdu rdng vdo mang ludi sdn xudt khu vuc Ddng A, Bdo cdo tai Hdi thao Htfdng tdi hdi nh|p kinh tdDdng A, ngdy 22/2, Ha Ndi
2. CIEM, UNDP (2003). Ky yi'u hdi thdo: Ndng eao ndng lite cftnh tranh qudc gia, Nxb Giao thdng vdn tdi. Ha Ndi
3. Pham Thiiy Hdng (2006). Phdt trien thuang hieu sdn phdm may mgc cho cdc doanh nghidp ngdnh may Viet Nam trong diiu kien hdi nhdp kinh tiqude te, D l tdi nghidn etfu khoa hpc d p Bp, Trtfdng Dai hoc Thtfdng mai, Ha Npi
4. Kapferer, J.N. (2000). Strategic Brand Management - Creating and Sustaining Brand Equity Long Term, Kogan Page Limited
5. Ha Nhai (2013). May mac ndi dia thu hep kinh doanh, tiny edp ttf http://www.sggp.org.vn/
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